• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.5
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• pp.711-724
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• 2019

The automatic drafting of clothing patterns can be realized through an Apparel Cad System when the clothing pattern has a pattern expression in human dimensions. However, it is difficult to apply automatic systems because it is difficult to express the ready-to-wear of various complex designs with one system. This study develops ready-to-wear patterns in an automatic drafting style and also develops nude patterns with human dimension-based drafting styles that can be applied to enable the setting of margins by design. For this purpose, radial body length measurement items and measurement methods were newly defined for female standard dummy and nude pattern systems. The institutional program was developed through the principle of a nude pattern system which is different from the pattern system of the existing system. The nude pattern developed in this study represents a basis and framework for the gradual transformation of the production pattern into the automatic system of the future and as a pattern having an institutional formula based on human dimensions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.11
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• pp.1271-1284
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• 2011

This study improves the fitness of Air Force winter service uniforms through the development of a shirt pattern drafting method and automatic pattern drafting program for MTM production. A calculation formula is formed through a correlation analysis and regression analysis using Size Korea 2004 3D measurement data after analyzing 4 kinds of existing shirt pattern drafting methods and 3 types of shirt patterns currently used for the Air Force service uniform. The results of this study are as follows: The developed pattern drafting method has 4 parts that use calculated dimensions: neck base width, front interscye, back interscye and scye depth. Other body measuring parts that have a high correlation with calculation parts are inserted into regression analysis as independent variables to create dimension calculation formulas. The result of the final study patterns were better than existing winter service uniforms in nearly all items for the appearance evaluation and motion adaptability evaluations. The method was converted into an automatic pattern drafting program using C++ after the completion of pattern drafting method development.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.256-267
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• 2013

This study is conducted to improve the fitness of Air Force winter service uniforms pants through the development of a pants pattern drafting method and automatic pattern drafting program for mass customization. The initial study pattern drafting method is formed through an analyses of 4 kinds of conventional pants pattern drafting methods for education and 3 kinds of conventional pants patterns of Air Force apparels. The initial study pattern drafting method is converted into the final study pattern drafting method after twice conducting a wearing test. To verify the final study pants pattern, a motion adaptability evaluation, an ease amount evaluation and an appearance evaluation are conducted. The results of the final study patterns were better than conventional winter service uniforms in the motion adaptability evaluation and the appearance evaluation. However, the results show similar values between the final study patterns and conventional winter service uniform patterns in the ease amount evaluation. An automatic pattern drafting program was developed based on the final study pattern drafting method. The program allowed the achievement of customized pants patterns through the placement of customer body sizes into the size input window. It also provided two kinds of ease amount and two kinds of waist belt level options.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.303-311
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• 1998

We developed a pattern drafting computer program using a popular CAD program for the purpose of the automatic manufacturing and education based on the concept of the easy -order-system which can easily reflect body characteristics and design favors of individuals to the ready-made clothing. The programs were written in Auto LISP which can utilise most of frictions of the Auto CAD, and the result of the design for an full-pleated skirt was shown. Also, we devised an easy way to set the location of reference points by inputting of tangential angle only for the use of the cubic spline curve which can represent body shape very well. Finally, by marking down all of symbols needed in manufacturing process, we completed the automatic pattern drafting program to make it useful as an industrial pattern without any amendment or correction in cutting and sewing operation.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.59-79
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• 2002

The purposes of the study were to present the optimum slacks pattern for elementary school girls and to compare and evaluate wearing ease of the slacks. 3D scans using the Cyberware PS motion platform were carried out for 3 subjects who have different body type. The automatic drafting method was programmed by AutoLISP in CAD. Wearing tests using 3D Scanner was done for evaluation of fitness of slacks. Regression analysis, analysis of variance and post-hoc test were performed for statistical analysis of the data by SPSS program. The procedure and results were as follows: The slacks construction components for pattern drafting were derived from 10 horizontal section maps obtained from 3D scans. The automatic drafting was based on the measurements of slacks construction components and the curve of crotch line. The crotch line was drafted using of the arc function in AutoCAD. The total crotch length was calculated using the multiple regression equation. Wearing test represented that the slacks pattern developed to accomodate individual body measurements was estimated more highly than existing patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.54-65
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• 1996

The purposes of this study were 1) to present the optimum slacks pattern for young men, 2) to develope a methodology to draft basic slacks pattern using AutoCAD The total crotch legth and the shape of the crutch line were determined by anthropometric data analysis. The total crotch length was calculated with the waist girth, the hip girth and the crotch length measurements. The anthropometric data utilized for this procedure was National Anthropometric Survey of Korea, 1992. And multidimensional anthropometric measurements were carried out for 6 male college students between the age of 18 to 24. The subjects were measured with the Martin's anthropometer and the sliding gauge. Mean, standard deviation and t-test were performed for statistical analysis of the data. The automatic drafting method was programmed by AutoLISP in AutoCAD. The automatic drafting was based on the Muller's slacks pattern drafting method, the measurements of slacks construction components and the curve of crotch line. The crotch line was drafted using of the arc function in AutoCAD. The total crotch length was calcuated using the multiple regression equation. The experimental pattern developed to accomodate individual body wleasurements expected to produce customized apparel production in QRS(Quick Response System) production system.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.1
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• pp.91-102
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to suggest a individually fitted slacks pattern in order to help ourselves prepared for the days of the order-based production like the EC in the apparel industry. A pattern was designed to make the personal fit improved based on the present study and the analysis of the measurements and the body shapes. The main characteristics of this newly designed slacks pattern are as follows. To improve fitting, the pattern requires more detailed data such as front and back waist arc, front and back hip arc, hip depth, the gradient of hip. And for personal fitted pattern, knee girth was established in the proportion to the hip girth and the crotch curve was adjusted to the measurements after drawing and the side seam curve was changed according to the front hip type and the ease in waist and hip was established by the percentage. Slacks pattern was developed into an automatic drafting program. Through the sensory evaluation for the appearance and moving fitness, newly designed slacks pattern was turned out to be improved in personal fit espacially for the body type out of the average.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.67-80
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• 2002

An efficient torso pattern has been developed to cope with the future trend of order-based, individualized production like the E.C.(Electronic Commerce) in the apparel industry, and to make a database foundation of automatic garment pattern drafting. For this purpose, a non-contact three-dimensional anthropometric measurement system was used to provide a lot of accurate body data for better individual fit, and an automatic pattern drafting system that can easily generate various size patterns and construct a pattern database has been developed too. The subjects of this research were 18 to 24 year-old women whose data had been gathered through the Korean national investigation of anthropometry for industrial standards in 1997 and various body shapes were analyzed by the measurements. And a special software system has been developed to verify the validity of newly proposed drawing rules. The results of sensory evaluation for appearance and moving fitness of the new torso pattern showed a significant improvement in individual fit even for the figures with large deviation from standard shape compared with the results of the traditional one.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.185-192
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• 1998

The methodology of applying fabric stretch ratio in the grants pattern drafting was evaluated. The experimental fabrics employed in this study were 3 different knit fabrics with various stretch ratio in vertical or horizontal direction. The firm fitting pants pattern was modified by applying the fabric stretch ratio in vertical ana horizontal direction. The computer automatic drafting method was used for pants pattenl alteration. The suitability of the altered pattern was evaluated by the 7 clothing specialists, The results showed that fit of all experimental garments was improved in general. The garment which was constructed with the fabric having large difference between horizontal stretch ratio and vertical stretch ratio showed poor fit at crotch area. This result implies that computer aided pattern alteration is not appropriate when fabric stretch ratio is vary by the fabric directions.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.27 no.2
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• pp.31-42
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• 1989

The purpose of this study was to develop a computer program to draft princess line onepiece dress pattern. To this study, the Turbo Pascal Compiler and the Pascal language were used. The procedures of the study were as follows: 1. A basic onepiece dress pattern was drafted by the hand operation. 2. The co-ordinate points were instituted for indication of relative position of all necessary points in drafting. Total sixty-nine co-ordinte points (front: thirty-five, back: thirt-four) were instituted. 3. The two subprograms for main program were developed to solve geometric problems and to draft straight lines and curved lines of the onepiece dress pattern. 4. The program was accomplished by putting indivisual body measurement 5. Grading fo five size was given.