• Journal of architectural history
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• v.3 no.2 s.6
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• pp.125-141
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• 1994

Alois Riegl's aesthetic theory of visual perception provided one of important conceptual backgrounds for Vienna Art Nouveau architecture. Riegls theory of visual perception consists of geometric style and two-dimensional transformation. Riegl's theory of geometric style is based on the modern aesthetic theory of abstraction, which says that the artistic perfection can be obtained not from a direct imitation of natural objects, but from an abstract transformation of them. Riegl's theory of two-dimensional transformation, on the other hand, aims at obtaining artistic perfection by disintegrating volumetric conditions of natural things into planes and combining the planes thus obtained into another new world of art. These two theories of Alois Rigl's provided an important aesthetical background for the design strategy of 'abstract ornamentaion of two-dimension' in Vienna Art Nouveau architecture. This paper is to review the basic concept of Alois Rigl's theory of geometric style and two-dimensional transformation.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.15 no.1
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• pp.63-72
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• 2004

This study explored furniture and furniture designers in Art Nouveau which was called as Jugendstill in Germany. Jugendstill was developed on the center of Munchen, Darmstadt, and Berlin from the late 19th century to the early 20th century. And it was developed differently from Art Nouveau in the rest of European countries as the Rococo style and the Baroque style of Germany were done so. The furniture designers of Art Nouveau pronounced their use of decorative motifs from nature with birds, flowers, insects, fish, even landscape represented, but the designers in Jugendstill made the elaborate curvilinear design simply stylized and abstract: the design of Art Nouveau was seen as the superfluity of the ornament but the design of Jugendstill was seen as the simplified lines and restrain of the ornament. Hence, Jugendstill was deeply related with the scientific and rational thought of Germany, and then, it was based on the Deutscher Werkbund found by Hermann Muthesius.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.56-63
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• 2005

This study aims to understand the ornamental space in Art-Nouveau style which was made up the ornamental aspect and spatial aspect. So that It is needed to classify the ornamental space into three categories according to the way of construction; pictorial composition, non-objective composition and organic construction. To find the meaning of these ornamental spaces, works of Art-Nouveau are analyzed into ornament and space, in result we know that process of integration, relativity of ornament as a part and forms of expression in ornamental space have some regulation; use of natural motive, repetition of image and organic combination. Whereas the ornamental space in Art-Nouveau style has comprehensive capacity between antagonistic relations just like tradition and new mechanism, the space could receive a lot of different ideas and express these ideas as ornaments. Although the ornamental space also had weak points which were the lack of transformation and the difficulties of the application of other design due to the perfection itself, we could create new space which meets the requirements of the times, if we develop and make up for the weak points in the ornamental space under the principles of dialectic.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.145-160
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• 2022

This study analyzes the influence of the social and cultural background of Art Nouveau on the costumes, architecture, and crafts in the period drama 'Crimson Peak'. This research method captures images of women's costumes, architecture, and crafts in the 'Crimson Peak' and selects and analyzes those with a clear Art Nouveau influence. Edith's costumes are characterized by the Art Nouveau style that emerged in the 1890s, with an hourglass silhouette, pastel colors, soft materials, and organic curved embellishments. Lucille's costumes show characteristics that were prevalent before the 1890s, using bustles, strong colors, and elaborate ornamentation. The architecture is characterized by gothic vertical lines and organic curves, naturalistic patterns featuring animals and plants, and steel and glass materials. The crafts of 'Crimson Peak' are characterized by flexible shapes with strong, organic curves. These costumes, architecture, and crafts share formal elements including waving, twisting, and organic curves and plant-shaped motifs. The influence of social and cultural background of the age of Art Nouveau expressed in movies on formative arts was examined as impressionism appeared in costumes made of pastel colors, thin and see-through materials, medieval Gothic historicism expressed in structures composed of vertical design and religious relief ornament, exoticism appeared in Chinese vase and Japanese-patterned tea sets, naturalism with an animal·plant motif and phenomenon of active social activities of progressive women through women's clothing that elements of men's costume are introduced. This study will provide data for the production of period dramas set at the end of the 19th century.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.563-572
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• 2014

Art Nouveau started from the purpose of making art young by reforming art. Rising in revolt against historical style imitation, Art Nouveau was a movement that demanded modern and trend-fitting styles which were embracing general revolution of life and surrounding environment. In jewelry, new styles were tried to be constructed too, breaking from previous styles. Together with new trial of materials, fine jewelry that technical skills of master craftsmen were emphasized on were shown. Styles of Art Nouveau had been diversely developed, fitting to culture of each country in the whole Europe. They were the bases of styles after the 20th century. Jewelry after Art Nouveau repeated development by being divided into industrial and artistic jewelry. They have influenced on a lot of development until modern times. Art Nouveau led jewelry to the establishment of artistic worth, exceeding the worth of goods. There is a difference between aesthetic jewelry expressed through diverse formativeness of Art Nouveau and modern jewelry designs centered on simple precious jewelry which is biased toward productivity and functionality. Modern times are the times of culture and art that are laying stress on personality and ego-expression and pursue creative and ingenious designs. So, various color expression of Art Nouveau and jewelry styles of diverse materials and motives which were expressed through time period and thought will become examples in leading new design development and design flows of modern jewelry.

• Archives of design research
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.101-110
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• 2000

Taking a look at art history around the world reveals the presence of ceramics in a wide range of areas. There have been many changes and developments over the years, but especially notable is the fact that in the course of history, the craft of ceramics has become an aesthetic art form rather than serving the original purpose of providing daily object of necessity. The Art Nouveau movement had peat influence in the development of ceramics before and after 19$^{th}$ century, and its inherent style continues to be copied and produced to modem day. The Art Nouveau style can today be seen particularly in contemporary tableware designs reflecting its graceful motifs that are now richly presenting themselves on table settings. This study looks at the possibilites of Art Nouveau in ceramics, namely by combining both traditional formativ qualities and contemporary visual inspirations to seek new expressions of beauty. In order to document records and analyze formative developments of Art Nouveau, representative pieces have been chronologically presented to cover the period from 1895 to the present.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.350-364
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• 2013

Based on the background of the times and theoretical background that influenced the formation of the works of Charles Rennie Mackintosh, one of representative architects of Art Nouveau, this study examined the formative characteristics of furniture design by period. In addition, his influences on the modern furniture design were also reviewed. In the latter half of the 19th century, due to Arts and Crafts Movement, the popularity of Art Nouveau was not high in England and due to conservative and traditional culture, Mackintosh had difficult time to display his ability in England. On the other hand, because Glasgow, one of industrial cities located in the center of Scotland where he had grown was an open and modern city, Mackintosh could win international fame in architecture and furniture design thanks to the atmosphere. Furthermore, it is found from the formative characteristics of his works that Historicism, Arts and Crafts Movement and Japanese culture and the influences of Continent became his theoretical background. His works creatively combined the noble design of Scotland and Art Nouveau to be considered a simple and pure style with a straight tendency and his working period can be divided into Beginning, Middle and Last Period according to the formative characteristics of furniture design. His constituting principle that decorated the structure influenced the Wien Secession's activities to form Wiener Werkstaette and this finally became the important background to develop to 'Modernism Design' through Art Deco and Bauhaus.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.12 no.12
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• pp.601-609
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• 2014

This kind of goal orientation in Art Nouveau has provided nature-friendly designs to modern people living in a post-industrial society. For these people who want to have their own style in a natural and comfortable space and take a break from daily hectic daily routines for a moment, hair-by-night styles were created by adding the images of Greek goddesses to the nature-friendly features of Art Nouveau patterns known as 'flower pattern', 'wave pattern', and 'vine pattern'. In terms of the scope of this paper, four designs (Eos, Hestia, Artemis and Demeter) were created by using Art Nouveau patterns which are connected with flowers in an organic manner based on Rene Lalique and Emile Galle patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.318-335
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• 2010

This study is to enhance the competitiveness of the domestic cosmetic industry and provide basic materials needed for a design idea by analyzing perfume bottles designed by Rene Lalique. The methods of this study are documentary research and demonstrative research. The documentary research considered the theoretical background with a focus on related domestic and international literature, previous research, and Internet materials. The demonstrative research extracted photo materials of the bottle designs of Lalique from domestic and international web sites along with literature that classified them into shapes, colors, materials, and patterns that analyzed the general characteristics and chronologic changes. The results of this study are as follows. The curve-oriented shape was common and multi-colors were used more frequently than a single color in the 1910's. Colorless-transparent glass and a flower patterns were used frequently for materials and patterns, respectively. Lalique reflects this style in his bottle designs because the Art Nouveau effect in the 1910's. In the 1920's, curved and straight shapes had a similar percentage. The use of multi-colors and one type of glass bottle increased versus the 1910's. Similar to the 1910's, a flower pattern was used most frequently. This suggests that Lalique was influenced by the established Art Nouveau and was also interested in the Art Deco style, In the 1930's, an organic curved shape was common. Unlike the 1910's and 1920's, a single color was more common than multi-colors. The one type of glass bottle and a geometric pattern were common for materials and patterns, respectively. The Art Deco style was reflected in the bottle design of Lalique in the 1930's.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.86-99
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• 2019

This research is a study on up cycling design to protect nature in order to postpone global warming to the maximum extent possible as it has been a serious global issue to the fashion industry and even to individual consumers. This research focuses on the ways to use wedding dress, one of the clothes made of synthetic fiber, which is a major cause of global warming. Among clothing from the 19th century, two styles of clothes, Bustle style and Art Nouveau style were analyzed ranging from their underwear styles to outwear styles through collections in books and museums. Two styles of dress using drawers, chemise, and corset as basic underwears were manufactured. All the fabric and subsidiary materials except for parts of underwears were made with discarded wedding dresses. It was developed for rental clothing which women could try on Western costume, from underwears to outwears. First, for bustle dress, woman put on basic underwears, then bustle, and bustle-type petticoat. Dress is a two-piece type, and it was made to put on detachable train on the back of skirt. Second, based on the Art Nouveau style clothes, our-glass style dress consists of petticoat, one-piece over drawers, chemise, and corset. After putting on drawers, both chemise, and corset were the same as Bustle Style. This research is a practical way of realizing sustainable design. The aim of the current work is to provide educational effect on the development of rental clothes which upcycle wedding dress and let women experience other cultures.