• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.788-798
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• 2009

This study aims to develop a highly reproducible, optimal frame design algorithm using variations in the curvature of armscye circumference, which will provide the basics for remodeling the 3D human body shape with the concept of reverse design used to develop total contents for the apparel industry. 1. The results of the experiment proved that ratio value was significantly efficient than absolute value of curvature variation to extract feature points in the armscye circumference 2. For the shoulder(1st and 2nd quadrant) and front armhole(3rd quadrant) parts of the armscye circumference, frame remodeling with the positive point of inflection led to the completion of a highly reproducible frame. 3. Similarly, even for the rear armhole part(4th quadrant) in the armscye circumference, it was found that frame remodeling using the positive maximum point of inflection resulted in highly reproducible body shape with the maximum point of inflection situated within the range of split angles $305^{\circ}{\sim}330^{\circ}$, while frame remodeling using simultaneously the two largest points of inflection including maximum point of inflection led to highly reproducible body shape with the maximum point of inflection out of the range $305^{\circ}{\sim}330^{\circ}$. 4. Based upon the optimal frame design algorithm developed in this study, section-specific feature points in the armscye circumference were extracted depending on the rate of curvature variation and remodeling with spline curves was conducted. The results indicate a remarkably high reproducibility(98.6%) and suggest that the algorithm developed in this study is suitable for human body modeling.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.80-85
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the characteristics of armscye circumference which will be used to develop total contents for the apparel industry. The subjects of this study were 16- to 49-year-old women whose 3D body shape data were analyzed. 72 length and length-ratio measurements were taken to each subject' armscye circumference. The used analysis methods are descriptive statistics, principal component analysis, and cluster analysis. The results are follows; 1. Considering the Length of armscye circumference, the result of principal component analysis were extracted 3 factors and those factors comprised 95% of total variance. As the result of the cluster analysis of factor scores, subjects were classified into 4 cluster by their size characteristic. 2. Considering the length-ratio of armscye circumference, the result of principal component analysis were extracted 5 factors and those factors comprised 96.45% of total variance. As the result of the cluster analysis of factor scores, subjects were classified into 5 cluster by their shape characteristic. So that, this research could be useful to manufacture garment which reflected 3D body figure and improved fitting.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.311-323
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• 2012

This study establishes the initial data to develop a well-fitted underwear pattern by categorizing and analyzing torso types based on body measurements of women in their 50s and 60s. The results are as follows: First, the statistical assessment on the body measurements showed meaningful differences among age groups in twenty seven items (except for bust breadth, hip width armscye depth, hip depth, neck base circumference, armscye circumference, chest circumference, hip circumference, bishoulder length, shoulder length, front interscye, back interscye, weight and inclined angle of left shoulder). Women in their early 50s and late 60s (respectively) showed the highest values in height and depth. Second, there are five body factors according to the results of the factor analysis: Factor 1 (circumference, width, and depth of upper body measurements) - the degree of body depth and obesity, Factor 2 (height and vertical length) - The vertical torso length, Factor 3 - the size of shoulder, Factor 4 - the vertical upper body length, and Factor 5 - the size of shoulder angle. Third, the results of the cluster analysis showed that there are four distinctive body types. The largest number of the study subjects was related to Type 3 (30.69%), followed by Type 2 (26.78%), Type 1 (25.84%), and Type 4 (16.69%), respectively. For distribution of age groups by body type, Type 3 was the most common among the 60s group while Type 2 appeared most frequently among the 50s.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.633-641
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to evaluate a new flight suit in bilateral ways; subjectively and objectively in the improvements of comfort and mobility. Seven healthy males at the age of twenties volunteered in this wearing test. They were over 177 cm in height and 92-95 cm in chest circumference, which satisfies the M95 Special' size described in the Korean Military Specifications and Standards. The subjective satisfaction was evaluated according to the criteria of ease of donning and doffing, fitness of wear, mobility, space between cloth and body, convenience in using restroom. Subjective satisfaction evaluation says that the best improvement of movement are neck circumference, chest breadth, armscye circumference, waist back length, crotch length, crotch height and body rise. According to the evaluation, improvements of mobility were conspicuous especially in parts of body like neck, breast, waist, back, and arms. When evaluating objective satisfaction, we measured a angle difference in a prescribed standard-grid on a photograph that picked up while the subject performed each motion in front of 10 cm-interval grid. As a result, the motion that had angle difference above 5 degrees were arm stretching and standing on single leg holding at forward or at his side. Bending necks and waist, crouching also had angle difference of over 5 degrees. The improvements are discussed from the viewpoint that the increased ease in parts of armscye circumference and crotch in new flight suit pattern.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.54 no.4
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• pp.427-440
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• 2016

This study uses comparison tests of bodice basic patterns to research improvements in wearing evaluation methods based on differences in bodice basic patterns and body size. As study methods, we calculated body sizes for six types by selecting four types of bodice basic pattern and utilized bodice basic pattern size measurement tools. The study result are as follows. First, as the result of analyzing bodice basic patterns per each part and body size difference by bodice basic pattern size measurement tool, shoulder angle cover rate was J&K type 57.57%~68.41%, N type 53.13%~65.57%, L type 51.87%~63.73%, and H type 59.03%~68.20%. In the item of neck base circumference, it was J&K type 6.4~-16 mm, N type 10.7~-31.9 mm, L type -5.2~-13.4 mm, and H type -6.2~-15.4 mm. In the item of armscye circumference, it was J&K type -18.9~-59.4 mm, N type -15.2~-51.3 mm, L type -38.9~-52.7 mm, and H type -17~-42.2 mm. In the item of biacromion length, it was J&K type 23.2~-4.7 mm, N type 18.4~-10.4 mm, and H type 3.5~-5.7 mm. In the item of interscye back, it was J&K type and N type 17.6~-13.6 mm, L type 11.9~-13.6 mm, and H type 3.2~-11.8 mm. The item of interscye front was found in the sequences of study type and L type. Second, the Kruskal-Wallis test result (according to bodice basic pattern) indicated meaningful differences in items of shoulder angle cover rate, neck point to breast point, bust point-bust point, biacromion length and armscye circumference and H type had an overall higher rank.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.3 s.56
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• pp.439-451
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• 2005

This study was to provide the fundamental data for the ease necessary to design clothes by investigating the variation of the upper body surface with the method of surgical tape. The subject were 8 young women in the standard somatotype. In the form of body surface according to arm movements, the shape of armscye circumference became gentle from the sunken form for the standing posture; scye depth became lower; lateral shoulder moved and rose toward the front center as the angle of arm movement became larger; scye depth is greatest in the standing. The items of horizontal ware largest in the standing posture except for front neck base circumference and front interscye breadth for side $90^{\circ}$ movement. In the items of vertical, while most of the front items increased but back ones generally decreased for all movement compared to the standing. After comparing differences in actual values between the form of body surface in the standing posture and the direct measurement, the following ease were suggested considering minimum measures to accommodate daily movements. Bust circumference/2 = 3cm; waist circumference/2 = 1.5cm; front interscye breadth/2 = 0.6cm; back interscye breadth/2 = 0.6cm; and underarm depth = 1.5cm

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.641-649
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• 2016

Highly precision body measurements represent basic data required by industry and researches who wish to utilize information about the human body. The proficiency and expertise of the measurers have a significant influence on the error and accuracy of data when various parts from multiple subjects' bodies are measured. Therefore, in order to measure accurate body measurements (when measuring bodies directly), it is necessary to conduct objective analyses on errors. This study calculated the Relative Technical Error of Measurement (%TEM) using data that measured each of 24 subjects and discussed errors and methods to reduce errors by conducting comparison analysis based on measured items and objects. The result of analysis indicated that the errors based on age and gender of the objects of measurement were minor; however, there were comparatively distinct differences in measured errors based on measured items. 'Right and left Shoulder Angle' for all measured subjects displayed the greatest errors and standard deviations. 'Height' dimension, Lateral Malleolus Height and Head Height had big errors; in addition, 'Circumference', Neck Base Circumference and Armscye Circumference also had big errors. More careful measurements of such items with big errors require additional educational plan such as a proposal for more objective and detailed measurement methods. Items with small errors but big standard deviations such as Waist Circumference, Calf Circumference, Minimum Leg Circumference, Chest Circumference, Hip Circumference and Waist Circumference confirmed that errors for them greatly decreased with repeated experiments and resultant measurers increased proficiency; consequently, repeated measuring experiments for these items greatly enhance accuracy.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.69-79
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• 2017

The purpose of this study was to compare fitting of the upper garment by brassiere cup size and types of bodice block. This study conducted a 3D virtual garment system by applying three types of bodice block (I, II, III) and experimental pattern of the bodice block to 3D avatars of four individuals with the following measurements: under bust circumference of 73.5 cm and bust circumferences of 83.5 cm, 86.0 cm, 88.5 cm, and 91.0cm. The results of the study were as follows. First, for 83.5 cm bust circumference (A Cup), appearance of the three types of bodice block (I, II, III) was appropriate. However, as bust circumference increased in size, shape became inappropriate. The depth and width of the armhole, within 15 cm and 11 cm, respectively, were found to be appropriate. In case of 91.0 cm bust circumference (D Cup), all three bodices (I, II, III) were inappropriate. Second, the results of the draft of the experimental patterns of the bodice block of bust circumference measuring 83.5 cm, 86.0 cm, 88.5 cm, and 91.0 cm in the 3D avatars of the four individuals revealed similarities in the frontal view of the silhouette in the four avatars; in the case of the lateral view of the silhouette, lateral width grew wider as bust circumference of the silhouette became larger, but the shape of armhole showed no changes. The depth of the armhole showed little changes from 15.1 cm to 15.22 cm, and the height of sleeve (armscye depth 13.6 cm within +2 cm) remained similar. The difference in width of the armhole from 11.26 cm to 11.37 cm was rather small. The width of the upper sleeve (8.97 cm) seemed to be appropriate as it remained within the 2-3 cm boundary.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.93-108
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• 2010

R$\ddot{o}$hrer index, Vervaeck index and Body Mass Index(BMI) are frequently used in order to judge obese subjects in clothing & textiles field. However, there are no certain criteria of judging the degree of obesity. Each researcher utilized these obesity indices according to their own criteria so far. Therefore, the purpose of the study is to suggest a reliable obesity index and new criteria for judging the degree of obesity. The results are as follows; Utilizing frequency analysis, main percentiles, minimums, maximums and ranges were presented by 5 age groups from twenties to sixties. Obesity rates dramatically increased, the subject got older. Especially, obesity rate of the subjects in their fifties and sixties were much higher than other age groups. 1.6 & higher can be used in the R$\ddot{o}$hrer index, 98 & higher can be used in the Vervaeck index, and 25 & higher can be used in the BMI as the Optimal criteria of the obesity. Total of 24 body measurements and 3 obesity indices were used for analyzing the correlation analysis. All heights measurements showed negative correlation with the 3 obesity indices. It is determined heights measurements have high correlation with R$\ddot{o}$hrer index compare to other indices. Crotch height, interscye back, neck shoulder point to breast point, bust circumference, waist circumference, upper arm circumference and armscye circumference have high positive correlation with all obesity indices. According to the ANOVAs by each percentile group of the R$\ddot{o}$hrer and Vervaeck indices, there are big significances in all measurements and obesity indices except arm length. In general, heights decreased significantly by getting bigger, while circumferences and lengths, widths and indices increased rapidly by getting bigger. The results of the analysis by each percentile group in the BMI, it showed the significant differences in the all measurements except cervical height and arm length. There were similar tendency of differences according to the degree of the obesity in BMI percentile groups. It was confirmed that the BMI is the most reliable index for judging the obesity owing to the high correlations and significant differences with other measurements.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.12 s.159
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• pp.1690-1696
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to provide the basic data useful in designing apparel patterns for aged abdominal obese women. The body measurements of 318 women were taken at random, whose ages were over 60 and fields of action were colleges, sports centers, or business sites in Seoul and the neighboring districts. A total of 33 features in the upper body and lower body were used fer the anthropometric measurement and analysis using anthropometry. The collected measurement data were processed statistically using the SPSS 12.0 program for technical statistical analysis, t-test, frequency analysis, correlation analysis. The results of the study are as follows. 1. Subjects were classified into two groups as a result of analysis for measurement data. It was revealed that 251(about 79 percent) women of total subjects(n=318) have a characteristic of abdominal obese body type and elderly women of these group usually had big abdomen rather than hip. The criteria of abdominal obesity based on waist-hip ratio, WHR(=0.85). 2. Aged abdominal obese women have shown much larger size in most body measurements except items of some vertical length, such as bust ponit-bust point, font interscye, back interscye with circumference and depth of armscye, bust, waist, abdomen and hip while showing no difference in height, biacrominal breadth, hip width, neck shoulder point to breast point, crotch length. 3. Vervaeck index(=100.1) and Rohrer index(=1.7) indicated that the abdominal obese women were fat in overall body. And aspect ratio of waist(=0.86), abdomen(=0.92) and hip(=0.75) also appeared high that the shape of cross sections in those regions was similar to a figure of circle 4. In view of the correlation coefficient between hip circumference and the rest measurement items, and between hip circumference inclusively of the abdomen protrusion and the rest measurement items, there were found some differences for each group. In case of Group (abdominal obese group), the former is smaller than the other. 5. In case of Abdominal obese women, hip circumference inclusively of the abdomen protrusion is more mutually related to the rest items related to make apparel pattern as waist circumference, depth of armscye and so on than what hip circumference is. This result indicated which must be considered hip circumference inclusively of the abdomen protrusion to make apparel patterns for abdominal obese women unlike women of common body types.