Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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v.20
no.6
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pp.523-531
/
2008
In hole type CPTu equipment which combines the concepts of inhole test method and piezocone test method was newly developed in order to evaluate the dynamic properties of marine soils. It is possible to perform inhole type CPTu without any additional source device because the source and receiver are contained inside the cone rod, which is different from the conventional seismic cone system. In this study, laboratory tests using kaolinite as soft soil and numerical simulations using finite element method were carried out to investigate the effects of several parameters including test methods and soil conditions on the test results from inhole type CPTu and to find out the optimum test method. It was found that it is necessary to maintain the length of swing arm as well as the distance between source and receiver consistently to obtain the rigorous test results. The laboratory test and numerical results also reveal that contrary to the input wave frequency, the water content of soil layer and the disturbance due to the installation of swing arm apparently affect the shear wave velocity.
With comparative analysis of running-type brassieres on the market about suitability for middle-aged women, this study is to provide basic data of running-type brassieres' pattern which is highly suitable. In the pursuit of this purpose, this study carried out wearing experiment targeting 3 middle-aged women with normal body shape which is 85B of chest circumference. The result is as follows. The significant difference was recognized in the breast. The products were rated in order of C>A>B>D, E, F, G>H by the observers, and C>B>D>A>F>E=G>H by the subjects. The significant difference was recognized in the armhole area. The products were ranked in the order of C, D>B, G, E>A, F, H by the observes and D, C>B>G>F>A>H by the subjects. The significant difference was also recognized in 6 categories(14~19) for the torso. According to the overall average values, the products were rated in the order of B, C, D>A, D, F, G by the observers and B=D>C>H>F>G>A>E by the subjects. The overall evaluation exhibited the significant difference. The products were ranked in the order of D>C>E>B>H>A>G>F by both observers and subjects. Therefore it was confirmed that the product D was appropriate in general. To conclude of comparative analysis about 8 kinds of running-type brassieres on the market, the average values of the product C and D in all categories had high marks for each category. The product C was comfortable and capable of covering the breast well, however, a gap was formed in outside-up part. The product D, made from lacy fabric, was very comfortable and well-fitted but there was inconsistency between the mold-cup and the breast shape.
We investigated the anxiolytic-like activity of ${\alpha}$-asarone (AAS) from Acorus gramineus in an experimental rat model of anxiety induced by repeated administration of the exogenous stress hormone corticosterone (CORT). The putative anxiolytic effect of AAS was studied in behavioral tests of anxiety, such as the elevated plus maze (EPM) test and the hole-board test (HBT) in rats. For 21 consecutive days, male rats received 50, 100, or 200 mg/kg AAS (i.p.) 30 min prior to a daily injection of CORT. Dysregulation of the HPA axis in response to the repeated CORT injections was confirmed by measuring serum levels of CORT and the expression of corticotrophin-releasing factor (CRF) in the hypothalamus. Daily AAS (200 mg/kg) administration increased open-arm exploration significantly in the EPM test, and it increased the duration of head dipping activity in the HBT. It also blocked the increase in tyrosine hydroxylase (TH) expression in the locus coeruleus (LC) and decreased mRNA expression of brain-derived neurotrophic factor (BDNF) and its receptor, TrkB, in the hippocampus. These results indicated that the administration of AAS prior to high-dose exogenous CORT significantly improved anxiety-like behaviors, which are associated with modification of the central noradrenergic system and with BDNF function in rats. The current finding may improve understanding of the neurobiological mechanisms responsible for changes in emotions induced by repeated administration of high doses of CORT or by elevated levels of hormones associated with chronic stress. Thus, AAS did exhibit an anxiolytic-like effects in animal models of anxiety.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.40
no.1
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pp.171-187
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2016
The study performed a comparison analysis of market brand patterns for slim-fit dress shirts and analyzed the body surface development figure of men in their 40s using 3D body scan data and developed slim-fit dress shirt patterns suitable for middle-aged men. The sizes of slim-fit dress shirt patterns showed a slight difference depending on brand. The overlap map of slim-fit dress shirt patterns for brands demonstrates how difference of one-dimensional sizes reflect on two-dimensional patterns. This map provides useful information for pattern design and allows and easy recognition of pattern size differences. A try-on system evaluation through 3D-Simulation allows a grasp of the fitness of neckline and size tolerance of under the arms in front, the silhouette of side lines, and overall fitness in front that also allows analysis of the front/back balance of a shirt in side, the size tolerance proportion in front/back, and the fitness of the arm-hole line. Thus, we obtained try-on results that were equivalent to wearing actual clothing. According to the drafting size suggested in the developed final pattern, the total width was 'C/2+5.5cm', and the front was set at 1cm bigger in the size difference of the front and back. The width of the front neck and the back neck was set identically at 'C/12', while the width of the front neck was set to 'C/12+1.5cm'. For the armhole depth, we added 'C/4+2cm', and '0.5cm and 1.5cm' for the width of the front and back to anthropometry. The results of the try-on evaluation through 3D-Simulation indicated that the fitness of the final slim-fit dress shirt pattern was superior to available slim-fit dress shirt patterns on the market and evaluated as superior to the types for middle-aged men.
The purposes of this study were to claassify of clothing-wearing motives, to analyze tendency of fashion in campus, and to propose fashion merchandising plans and marketing strategies of companies for female college students. Research had been done during 1 week each on April and October in 1998 and 1999. Sixty-two students in spring semester and 54 student in fall semester were surveyed and analyzed. Their grades and majors were not considered in this study. Fashion Diary had been written by students and then their statements were analyzed by the means of the qualitative data analysis. Following conclusions were obtained from this study. 1. Clothing-wearing motives were classified with 'group depending on daily work', 'group depending on image', 'group depending on body supplement', 'group depending on weather', 'group of fashion following', 'group depending on courtesy', 'group depending on mood', and 'group of unconcerning'. 2. The fashion tendency of the students were layered look and they preferred casual styles, such as round t-shirts, jean pants, and cardigans. The color of white, black, and gray were prevalent for top wear, and the color of blue, black, beige for bottom wear in both seasons. For shoes, color of black, brown, white were popular. For bags, black, blue, and khaki color were prevailed. 3. The proposals obtained from this study are as follows : 1) Production of clothing enforced functional and practical base is wanted for 'group depending on daily work'. 2) Designs considering body parts such as hip, arm hole, shoulder, and thigh are needed. 3) Utilization of new materials such as waterproof with ventilation, opaque (means 'not see-through'), antipollution finishing process are required. 4) Simple designs of clothing which could be performed by herself with various accessories. Thermochromic materials are wanted for 'group of fashion following'. 5) Diversity of semi-suit is required for 'group depending on courtesy'.
The purpose of this study was to compare torso pattern made by draping and flat pattern method in terms of the size of breast. The size of this study was classified as 75A and 75D according to the size of breast. Each torso pattern by the combination of the size and pattern method was compared and analyzed. In order to test the fit of the draping and flat pattern that was developed according to the size of breast, the outer appearance was evaluated. The results of the study were as follows: First, The most striking size difference was difference between the front and the back on bust line level, which decides on position of the side seam in comparison of size between draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. In the flat pattern, the difference between the front and the back in the size of breast was consistent regardless of a change in the size of breast. However, in the draping, the bigger breast led to the bigger difference between the front and the back on bustline level. Second, the flat pattern in 75D was evaluated to be the worst in 27 items among total 46 items for the evaluation of outer appearance in the draping and flat pattern of 75A and 75D. Third, regardless of size, the draping was evaluated to be more suitable in the areas related to neck, arm hole, and waist dart than the flat pattern. These results are suggesting that the draping is a method of reflecting characteristic of the body type more accurately than the flat pattern, and that the draping is a more suitable method than the flat pattern for the design of clothing pattern of the body type with big breast like 75D.
Jackets are regarded as an element used to judge ideas and fashion trends for the age in which they are presented. This article analyzed recent tailored jacket fashion trends by categorizing jackets according to design elements. For this, design elements of tailored jackets were categorized into silhouette, collar and lapel, shoulder and sleeve, and decorative elements. We collected and categorized the changes of 491 jackets that have appeared in collections over the past 5 years. The results showed shoulder and sleeve changes (36.25%), silhouette changes (33.4%), lapel and color changes (12.6%), decorative element changes (11.2%), and no changes (6.5%). Jacket forms with changed shoulders and sleeves appeared as styles that have laterally or vertically expanded the shoulder and arm hole with the production of various sleeve forms. Silhouette changes were expressed through forms such as exaggerated silhouettes of oversized-clothing, silhouettes made through cutting or layering, and the polarization of length. Forms with a changed collar and lapel appeared with polarization trends in which lapels dramatically grow larger or narrower, diverse frontal adjustments using no-collar designs, and the utilization of shawl-collars; in addition, forms with changed decorative elements were expressed with layered decorations such as pockets or collar add-ons, adjustment changes using buttons, ribbons or zippers, and various trimmings. The analysis results show that modern female tailored jackets are being made to realize an exaggerated physical beauty of shoulder, sleeve and torsos to maximize decorative effects through new attempts in design.
The purpose of this study is to survey and analyze domestic fashion education institution's program on apparel prototype and thereupon, address the problems and find their solutions, and thereby, provide for some basic data useful to improve the basic patterns of apparel and ultimately, help reinforce the professional and practical apparel design education. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; 1. 85.1% of the subjects finished graduate or higher courses. Almost all of the college and junior college teachers finished graduate or higher courses, while only 31.6% of those teaching at technical institutes finished graduate or higher courses. Such a finding suggests that colleges tend to employ their faculty members based on their academic background but that technical institutes value the practical ability of their faculty more. 2. As a result of surveying the types of basic patterns used by teachers, it was found that 72.3% of them were using two or more patterns. The basic pattern preferred most by our teachers was Japanese culture institute's type (71.3%), followed by the US FIT type (24.5%), Lim Won-Ja's type (22.3%), French ESMOD type (17.0%). 96.3% of our apparel design students were making their basic patterns as instructed by their teachers. 3. 67.0% of our students were using their conceived sizes for production of their basic patterns, 14.9% were referring to the ready-made sizes, 8.5% were relying on their teachers' individual experiences, and 9.6% were using their own cord sizes. In order to survey the difference between teachers' sizes (ready-made sizes or individual experienced ones) and business sizes used, the basic body measurements used for ready-made apparels were surveyed to be compared with the national standard body sizes set in 1997 for women aged between 18 and 24. As a result, it was found that the ready-made sizes used for apparel production prototypes than teachers' ones were nearer the national standard sizes. Such a finding suggests that it may well be necessary for teachers to be more connected with the apparel businesses and thereby, teach their students in a more realistic way with correct information. 4. 83.0% of the subject teachers were tacking their basic patterns to be well fitting, and 76.9% of these teachers were tacking the patterns in reference with students' individual body sizes. In all, 97.4% of the subject teachers were guiding the tacking process, which suggests that the flat patternmaking is taught primarily for customized apparels. As a result of comparing the fitness of basic patterns with those of each body part, it was found that teachers were most dissatisfied with the fitness of shoulders and arm hole depth. Therefore, it will be necessary to reclassify the body types or find other drawing techniques to improve the fitness of such body parts. Nevertheless, teachers were willing much (4.18) to develop their own educational basic patterns for themselves. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will be followed up by future studies on educational prototypes covering diverse body shapes and those on practical implementations of those prototypes for students.
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