• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.39-52
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• 2018

The objective of this study was to enhance understanding and appreciation of Pre-Orientalism in costumes and textiles by revealing examples of Oriental influences in Europe from the 16th century to the mid-18th century through in-depth study. The research method used were the presentation and analysis of previous literature research and visual data. The result were as follows; Pre-Orientalism had been influenced by Morocco, Thailand, and Persia as well as Turkey, India, and China. In this study, Pre-Orientalism refers to oriental influence and oriental taste in Western Europe through cultural exchanges from the 16th century to the mid-18th century. The oriental costume was the most popular subspecies of fancy, luxury dress and was a way to show off wealth and intelligence. Textiles were used for decoration and luxury. The Embassy and the court in Versailles and Vienna led to a frenzy of oriental fashion. It appeared that European in the royal family and aristocracy of Europe had been accommodated without an accurate understanding of the Orient. Although in this study, the characteristics, factors, and impacts of Pre-Orientalism have not been clarified, further study can be done. Recognizing a broad perspective on oriental influence in Europe before Orientalism, we can have a balanced view of future Orientalism and global fashion.

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.203-218
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• 2007

The early eighteenth century witnessed the birth of homosexuality as an identity and the emergence of a homosexual subculture in Britain. The homosexual subculture revealed itself through identified walkways and parks, gestures by which men might signal their interests to each other, and meeting places called "molly houses" where homosexuals could gather in relative safety. As early as 1703 the homosexuals seem to have overrun London. Homosexuals in eighteenth-century Britain provides a figure on which a variety of social anxieties could be displaced. Homosexuality is partly sexual transgression; mostly, it represents a variety of class, national, political transgressions. The association of British homosexuality with the fashion for Italian tastes was commonplace, and the growth of homosexuality was regarded as the greatest threat to the glorious Britain by destroying all its masculine virtues. Homosexuality was widely believed to be particularly common among the aristocracy and to be symptomatic of the increasing depravity of that class. The radicals in eighteenth-century Britain did not hesitate to exploit the surge in homophobia. They identified aristocratic patronage as one of the aristocratic practices that encouraged homosexuality and thus stigmatized the sort of male bonding that helped sustain aristocratic hegemony.

• Journal of Korean Medical classics
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• v.9
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• pp.555-652
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• 1996

Up to the present the scholastic achievements in the history of the medical system have been rather scare despite its importance in the Korean History. Hence, this dissertation attempts to examine the significance of the institute in the Korean History, covering the period from the ancient times through the early Chosun-Dynasty. In the ancient times, the medical practice relied primarily upon human instincts and experiences at the same time, shaman's incantations were widely believed to cure diseases, the workings of evil spirits supposedly. For the period from the Old Chosun through Samhan(巫堂), Chinese refugees brought a long medical knowledge and skills of the continent. New Chinese medicine, traditional practices and incantations were generally used at this time. Medicine and the medical system were arranged by the period of the Three Countries(三國時代). No definite record concerning Koguryo remains now. As for Paekje, however, history shows that they set up the system under the Chinese influence, assigning medical posts such as Euibaksa(medical doctor), Chaeyaksa(pharmacist), and Jukeumsa(medicine man) within Yakbu(department of medicine). Scientifically advanced, they sent experts to Japan, giving a tremendous influence on the development of the science on ancient Japan. After the unification of the three countries, Shilla had their own system after the model of Dang(唐). This system of the Unified Shilla was continued down to Koryo and became the backbone of the future ones. In the ancient time religion and medicine were closely related. The curative function of the shaman was absolute. Buddhism played a notable part in medical practice, too, producing numerous medical monks. The medical system of Koryo followed the model of Dang with some borrowings from Song(宋). Sangyakkuk(尙藥局) was to deal exclusively with the diseases of the monarch whereas Taeeuigam(太醫監) was the central office to handle the national medical administration and the qualification test and education for doctors. In addition, Dongsodaebiwon(東西大悲院), Jewibo(濟危寶), and Hyeminkuk(惠民局) were public hospitals for the people, and a few aristocrats practiced medicine privately. In 987, the 6th year of Songjong(成宗), local medical operations were installed for curing the sick and educating medical students. Later Hyonjong(顯宗), established Yakjom(clinics, 藥店) throughout the country and officials were sent there to see patients. Foreign experts, mainly from Song, were invited frequently to deliver their advanced technology, and contributed to the great progress of the science in Korea. Medical officials were equipped with better land and salary than others, enjoying appropriate social respect. Koryo exchanged doctors, medicine and books mainly with Song, but also had substantial interrelations with Yuan(元), Ming(明), Kitan(契丹), Yojin(女眞), and Japan. Among them, however, Song was most influential to the development of medicine in Koryo. During Koryo Dynasty Buddhism, the national religion at the time, exercised bigger effect on medicine than in any other period. By conducting national ceremonies and public rituals to cure diseases, Taoism also affected the way people regarded illness. Curative shamanism was still in practice as well. These religious practices, however, were now engaged only when medication was already in use or when medicine could not held not help any more. The advanced medical system of Koryo were handed down to Chosun and served the basis for further progress. Hence, then played well the role to connect the ancient medicine and the modern one. The early Chosun followed and systemized the scientific and technical achievement in medicine during the Koryo Dynasty, and furthermore, founded the basis of the future developments. Especially the 70 years approximately from the reign of Sejong(世宗) to that of Songjong(成宗) withnessed a termendous progress in the field with the reestablishment of the medical system. The functions of the three medical institute Naeeuiwon(內醫院), Joneuigam(典醫監), Hyeminkuk(惠民局) were expanded. The second, particualy, not only systemized all the medical practices of the whole nation, but also grew and distributed domestic medicaments which had been continually developed since the late Koryo period. In addition, Hyeminso(惠民局, Hwarinwon(活人院)) and Jesaenwon(濟生院)(later merged to the first) played certain parts in the curing illness. Despite the active medical education in the capital and the country, the results were not substantial, for the aristocracy avoided the profession due to the social prejudice against technicians including medical docotors. During the early Chosun-Dynasty, the science was divided into Chimgueui (acupuncturist), Naryogeui(specialist in scrofula) and Chijongeui (specialist in boil). For the textbooks, those for the qualification exam were used, including several written by the natives. With the introduction on Neoconfucianism(性理學) which reinforced sexual segregation, female doctors appeared for the female patients who refused to be seen by male doctors. This system first appeared in 1406, the sixth year of Taejong(太宗), but finally set up during the reign of Sejong. As slaves to the offices, the lowest class, female doctors drew no respect. However, this is still significant in the aspect of women's participation in society. They were precedents of midwives. Medical officials were selected through the civil exam and a special test. Those who passed exams were given temporary jobs and took permanent posts later. At that time the test score, the work experience and the performance record of the prospective doctor were all taken into consideration, for it was a specialized office. Most doctors were given posts that changed every six months, and therefore had fewer chances for a goverment office than the aristocracy. At the beginning the social status of those in medicine was not that low, but with the prejudice gradully rising among the aristocracy, it became generally agreed to belong to the upper-middle technician class. Dealing with life, however, they received social respect and courtesy from the public. Sometimes they collected wealth with their skills. They kept improving techniques and finally came to take an important share in modernization process during the late Chosun-Dynasty.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.65-73
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• 2002

This research is to reveal an aspect of costume culture interchange in the relationship of the early Chosun Dynasty, by considering the imported goods from Japan, of the trading goods derived by the trade diplomacy between the two countries in the early Korea-Japan relationship in the medieval era. The research results are as follows. A good-neighbor Policy in the early Chosun Dynasty was established by a link of a barbarian ban policy to blockade the frequent intrusion by Japanese barbarians. The exchange was the form of presenting a return present in return for a tribute to the Chosun Dynasty from the Japanese envoy, which has a polycentric characteristic. Pusanpo, Naipo, and Yumpo were designated as the open ports, which played a pivotal role in the Korea-Japan exchange. In trading goods between Korean and Japan. the imported goods from Japan to Korea were a wide variety of items primarily such as dyes, mordant, medicines, steel, spicers, etc. In particular, Somok used as a red mordant, which were intermediate goods to Southeast Asia, was the most heavily-traded items of imported goods from Japan. It had been consumed primarily as a raw material making the costume suit of the royal family and the aristocracy. The increased import of Somok was derived from a thought of preferred red color by our people. As its inflow was increased. the costumes tended to be luxurious In early Chosun Dynasty and resulted in social issues. This active trading from the early Chosun Dynasty caused from the communication of the Japanese envoy. In addition the study of the trading provided an opportunity that can glance at an aspect of the costume culture, though It was fractionary.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.37-47
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• 1999

In the 17th century, Europe had changed from medieval feudalistic ages into an absolute monarchy taking Catholicism and absolute monarchism together. On the other hand, Holland achieved prosperity in economy, culture, and arts through gradual enlightment of the people by winning independence from Spain, and religious reformation. The culture dress and its ornaments at the time was led by the governing class such as royal families and its aristocracy in Europe, while Holland, united republic country at the time, brought civil costume nationwide wholly by civil class and its effect to other neighboring countries in Europe. In addition, the origin of modern dress and its ornaments dates back to that time. Moreover, civil-looking dutch paintings found its sources in routine daily life and became realistic. With this respect, in this research, we put our purpose of the research in making a better and more understanding of the modern costume and its ornaments and exploring the spirit of human beings by analyzing dutch civil costumes shown in these artistic works. It is very important that this research is rather renovational comparing with prior ones focused on those of ruling classes. As a result of the research, the distinguished parts of the civil costumes appeares as following beauties. First, functional beauty was respected such as natural waist line, peplum, gather of the skirt and sleeve, apron, head towel were some of the examples to those in their costumes and its ornaments. Second, with respect to humanity under rough natural surroundings and long struggle with outside tribes, humanity of costume was brought by optimistic and even free mind to them. The three quater sleeve showed wrist and deep-cut decollete in their dress and ornaments. Third, with respect to simplicity, religious effect on the leading civil class demanding self-abstinence, frugality, and thrift in their way of life resulted in black-tone simple costumes with white collar in their costumes and its ornaments.

• Journal of the Korea Furniture Society
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• v.21 no.2
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• pp.167-187
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• 2010

In this paper, the research is carried out about a couch, a horse foot chair, a horse foot table, and a multi-leg table among the furniture of Koguryeo. The couch had been widely used from the Chinese Han Dynasty, and the couch of the Koguryeo was influenced by that of Han. The couch of Koguryeo was a piece of furniture which was used not only for sitting purposes but also for symbolizing status ranking. The horse foot chair is a chair whose leg is finished with a horse foot shape, and is a relic which shows an aspect of the art exchange between the East and the West, appearing in Egypt and Mesopotamia, having influence on chairs of Greece and Rome, and being introduced into Koguryeo and Japan by way of the countries bordering on Western China and China. The horse foot chair was used by the royalty, the aristocracy and the priesthood, and use of the chair at that time reflects the effect of Buddhist culture. The horse foot table is a piece of furniture whose leg is finished with a horse foot shape as in the horse foot chair, and there are many instances that it is used together with the horse foot chair. The multi-leg table is configured to have a square plate, plural legs and footstool, and is used by the upper classes, being also influenced by China. In this paper, the study about the furniture of Koguryeo, which has not been closely considered up to now, is performed, and is important as a study about origin of Korean furniture. In the future, the research about succession of the furniture of Koguryo to that of Koryeo period should be carried out, and much more research material be investigated.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.3 s.68
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• pp.420-430
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• 2007

Noting that there is an increasing trend of the so-called 'neo-single life style' among women these days, this research aims to make a product development for these neo-single women in this era of families of a single member by analyzing their concepts and characteristics. We payed a particular attention to the data from such sources as newspapers, magazines or the articles in the Internet. The essence of our research lies in the analysis of target market, in the suggestions in the brand planning and product development and in the designs of fashion and interior products for them. The result of this research is as follows. First, it turns out that these neo-single women enjoy a kind of multi-mixing code lifestyle rather than showing a preference for a particular brand. For this reason, we have decided to pursue a multi-concept brand fonn as a right direction for brand planning for them. Second, as for a philosophy behind the brands, we suggest a concept of 'small utopia' for neo-single women and express such as new aristocracy, happiness and pleasure. Third, we adopt 'YOU' as the name of the brand as it reflects their various life styles and characteristics. Fourth, as for the product development of F/W in 2007, we have decided on 'Minimal Natural' as it mixes up the concepts of the controlled beauty of sophistication and multi-functional elements and 'Modern Primitive' as it expresses the ethnic elements on modern images having craft factors and modern images. We have performed concrete tasks in creating images, coloring, making fabrics for each theme. Fifth, we have chosen and suggested other products that are suitable for these neo-single women who seek for multi-functional but simple kinds after surveying a wide range of products in magazines or in the Internet.

• Journal of the East Asian Society of Dietary Life
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.73-82
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• 2003

In the early years of the Koryo dynasty(877~1392), the grain production was encouraged and the consumption of meat was abstained because of the Buddhism. Therefore, desserts including rice cos and cookies and teas were prevalent. Specially, the cooking skill of the desserts was highly developed because the desserts were the requisite of offered in Buddhist service and national ceremonies. Also, the king took the lead in abstaining to eat meat. According to $\boxDr$Koryodokyung$\boxUl$ , People in the early Years of the Koryo dynasty were unskilled to slaughter for serving meat to the envoy from China. Most ceremonies in Koryo dynasty were held fur retainers by king and the ceremonies held to celebrate the coronation, birth of the royal grandchildren, and royal birthday, and to treat the envoys and merchants from China(Song dynasty) and Tamra kingdom. The ceremonies were continuously held from the early year to the later year of Koryo dynasty. The aristocracy of the Koryo dynasty often held the extravagant ceremonies and drank liquor a lot in the ceremony and offered the extravagant foods such as oil-and-honey pastry and milk, which caused the national problem later. The royal religious ceremonies held often in the Koryo dynasty were ancestor worship ceremony, tea ceremony, lotus lantern ceremony, Palgwanhoe, etc. In Koryo dynasty, there were several government offices that took charge of royal dietary culture as follows: 1. Yomulgo (料物庫) - government office supplied with provisions 2. Sasunseo(司謄署) - government office that took charge of various kinds of side dishes 3. Saonseo(司酪署) - government office that took charge of wine and liquor 4. Naejangtaek(內莊宅) - government office managed paddy fields and dry fields owned by royal family 5. Sangsikguk(尙食局) - government office same as Sasunseo that took charge of various kinds of side dishes, the name changed to Sasunseo later 6. Sungwanseo (謄官署) - government office that took charge of foods for various religious services and ceremonies 7. Naewonseo (內園署) - government office that took charge of the garden

• Journal of Korean Philosophical Society
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• v.147
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• pp.1-28
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• 2018

In order to reveal the differentiation of Nietzsche's justice theory, this paper attempted an intrinsic analysis of the political act of establishing a social contract with others through the fundamental concept of "will to the power", and the politics of modern nation including utilitarianism, liberalism and democracy. I will deal with criticism of ideology. In other words, it will be a work to clarify the fictitiousness and errors by digging out the ground of the value of justice as 'genealogical psychology' which strips off the psychological layers hidden behind the name of universal truth called 'virtue'. By dismantling the notion of self-righteous justice based on 'virtue' from 'immorality' as well as 'out of morality', it aims to reveal a new emotional dimension based on love, not retaliation. When Nietzsche emphasizes the role of positive emotions such as 'mercy' and 'forgiveness' rather than negative emotions such as revenge, retaliation, and grudge, while analyzing justice in the dynamics of power relations, By allowing exception rule, we will critically analyze whether universality and consistency are lost.

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.54 no.1
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• pp.3-29
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• 2008

Ian Watt, author of The Rise of the Novel, maintained that the novel originated in modern England, came from prose discourses such as the news, political essays and journalistic writing which propagated the Enlightenment, and the novels represent formal realism. The main point of this paper is to examine Watt's theory of the rise of the novel on the basis of the criticism of antinomy of the Enlightenment and "the public sphere" in Habermas' terms. At first, I will criticize formal realism, which is not a new literary species, but a formally renovated realistic form that represented capitalism and protestantism. And, then, I will show that formal realism is a kind of antinomy because it turned away from the voices and reality of the low-class and women though the novel concentrated on common people, not the aristocrats. Secondly, I will inquire into the antinomy of the Enlightenment in the aspects of reason, freedom, individualism and women. In my view, as soon as the high-middle class acquired their political rights, these values were no more encouraged and the result revealed antinomy of the Enlightenment more explicitly. Thirdly, I'd argue that "the public sphere" had positive meanings to everyone when the bourgeosie were fighting against the Absolutism and the aristocracy. I'll also insist that the high-middle class and the intellectuals were in "the public sphere" in which Habermas argues that rationality and equality were thought to have been realized, while the low-middle class and most women were de-enlightened and disciplined by reading the novel privately. In conclusion, formal realism is not the rise of the novel, but the opening of the novel peculiar to bourgeosie parliamentarism from the middle-eighteenth century to the middle-twentieth century.