• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.55-66
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• 2015

The objective of this study is to propose a method by which movement fitness can be evaluated using a three-dimensional virtual garment simulation program. To this end, five types of jean pants for men were evaluated on the program by setting the avatars to make particular movements to examine the level of pressure on each body part. To verify whether the clothing pressure measurement produces valid and reliable results, virtual garment simulation program was utilized. The results indicated that there were significant differences in the levels of pressure on body parts depending on the type of test garment and motion. In addition, the clothing pressure measurement results were in line with the appearance evaluation results suggested by a previous study. Based on this set of results, the nomological validity of the clothing pressure measurement program used in this study was verified. Moreover, we employed an appearance evaluation along with the clothing pressure measurement to verify the reliability of the program; there was a high correlation between clothing pressure measurements and appearance evaluation measurements, indicating that measuring clothing pressures may well compensate for the limitations of appearance evaluation. We expect the results of this study to make valuable contributions in facilitating the digitalization of the fashion industry. Furthermore, this study also is significant in that it has suggested 3D virtual fitting programs as a solution to the long-criticized problem related to the evaluation of movement fitness in existing virtual garment simulation programs.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.103-120
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• 2012

The study aimed to evaluate the appearance of the men's work clothes jumpers developed to suggest the prototype work clothes jumper patterns by using the 3-D clothing simulation technology. The 3-D simulated clothing images considered the upper body features of men in the age range between 20 and 59 in South Korea. A questionnaire survey conducted previously suggested a basic jumper style with shirt collar and snap opening cuffs for the heavy industry workers; and discomforting parts of the work clothes jumper of the subject workers have been referred to for the experimental jumper appearance test. Besides, defining the measurements of men's upper bodies enabled to generate the men's 3-D virtual models representing each age group's average body feature. The significant body measurement factors for men's 3-D body modeling and jumper pattern-making were stature for the height factor; chest, waist and hip circumferences for the circumference factor; waist back, hip and arm lengths and interscye front/back for the length factor; and back neck breadth for the breadth factor and armscye and scye depths for the depth factor. The men's body measurements of 30's were implemented to three experimental jumper pattern-making methods, i.e. the 1st method using the relations based on stature and chest circumference; the 2nd method using the direct body measurements; and the 3rd method adopting the maximum ease amount of given body measurements whether relations or direct measurements except the direct measurement of scye depth. A comparison among the three experimental jumpers' simulated images highlighted that the appropriate ease amount of the jumper gained higher scores in terms of the jumpers' front, side, back and sleeve parts and the total silhouettes. Therefore the 3rd experimental jumper was finally selected for the heavy industry workers.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권6호
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• pp.1347-1358
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• 2011

This study purposed to analyze differences in body measurement between the 2D direct body measuring method and the 3D body scan measuring method and to perform the appearance evaluation and cross-sectional evaluation of the fit of pants to which body measurements obtained by each measuring method were applied. Body measuring was conducted in 10 women in their 20s-30s using 2D direct body measuring and 3D automatic measuring with Hamamatsu body scanner. Among the 10 women, 3 participated in experimental garment wearing. Experimental pants were made using their 2D direct body measurements and 3D automatic measurements, and wearing tests were performed through expert evaluation and cross-sectional evaluation. The results of the experiment were as follows. According to the results of comparative analysis on differences between 2D direct body measurements and 3D scan measurements, 3D automatic measurements were significantly larger in bust circumference, ankle circumference, armscye circumference, shoulder length, scye depth, and arm length. As circumferences measured with the 3D body scanner were somewhat larger than directly measured ones, it is suggested to adjust ease when using existing pattern making methods. We prepared experimental garments by the same pattern making method through applying body measurements obtained with the two measuring methods, and assessed the fit of the garment comparatively through expert evaluation and 3D scan cross-sectional evaluation. According to the results, 2D-pants using 2D direct body measurements was slightly tighter than 3D-pants using 3D measurements in waist circumference, hip circumference, and abdominal circumference. In the results of comparing appearance in terms of the fit of the experimental garment in each subject, significant difference was observed in most of the compared items. This result suggests that 3D automatic body measuring data may show different accuracy according to body shape and therefore it is necessary to examine difference between 2D direct body measurements and 3D automatic measurements according to body shape.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권6호
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• pp.873-886
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• 2014

This study conducted a survey on jean pants that targeted males in the 20s in order to select preferred brands for skinny jean pants. Preliminary data for the pattern development of skinny jean pants was presented through functionality evaluation, appearance evaluation and pattern analysis. The results were as follows. 1. The result of survey targeting males in the 20s to select the design and brand name of jean pants showed that skinny jean pants were selected as the most favorite type of jean pants to wear; in addition, non-brand products and brand names such as Uniqlo and Levi's were also preferred. 2. The result of functionality evaluation showed that L brand received a high score in all items except for items regarding the knee circumference and mid-thigh circumference, S brand received a high score as well as a low score, and N brand received a low score in general. The result of appearance evaluation showed that L brand for the waist height and waist circumference, N brand for the brand crotch circumference, posterior crotch length and knee circumference, and S brand and N brand for the length of pants were preferred. 3. The result of pattern measurements analysis from the result of functionality evaluation showed that L brand provided a large pattern measurement for the waist height, L brand provided less ease due to small pattern measurements for waist circumference; in addition, N brand for the knee circumference and mid-thigh circumference were preferred. 4. The analysis result shows that a ease of 5cm based on the belly band which is 3.5cm below the belt width is proper for the waist circumference when designing a skinny jean pant pattern and 4cm for the hip circumference and 32.5cm for the ease of crotch circumference are proper, -0.4-0cm for the ease of mid-thigh circumference and knee circumference in consideration of human body measurements; therefore, 80.1-80.5cm for inseam as the length from the crotch height to the leg length, 25.7cm for vertical hip length and 53.0cm for crotch length are proper.

• 대한인간공학회지
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• 제35권6호
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• pp.581-594
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• 2016

Objective: The purpose of this study is to develop an all- in-one collar shirt with excellent appearance which is well suited to the body shape of the male adults. Background: As men's casual wear has recently become more casual and the number of cool biz wearing in the summer has increased, a variety of shirt colors have been preferred in addition to shirt collar. However, studies on the design and pattern development of men's casual shirt collars are very rare. So we have identified the necessity of various development and research of men's shirts. Method: We collected 8 all-in-one collar patterns for shirts from professional pattern books and men's shirt brands. Also, based on anthropometric data from the 6th Size Korea, we selected 5 subjects with measurements similar to the average adult men, manufactured shirts based on them and conducted a wearing test by 5 experts. Results: After selecting shirts with good fit and appearance, we developed a prototype of all-in-one collar. As for front appearance evaluation, E1 pattern had the most outstanding shape and size, and C1 pattern had the most natural creases and front adjustment curves. As for side appearance evaluation, C1 had the highest overall scores, and E1 pattern on outer line. As for back appearance evaluation, C1 pattern had the highest score. Conclusion: We suggested new all-in-one collar and shirt patterns. In addition, the prototype of the all-in-one collar shirt design was presented by reflecting results of the wearing test and preference survey. Application: The shirt's design and patterns could be manufactured using the developed patterns. It will fit well with the body shape of adult males and will be highly satisfied by them.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.118-129
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• 2010

Digital technology introduced into the clothing and fashion industry is evolving to digital virtual fashions and consumer-centered mass-customized production systems. Today the application of such 3D virtual try-on systems is being expanded gradually in the clothing industry. This study purposed to make virtual avatars and virtual garments using OptiTex and V-stitcher virtual software and compared the appearance of the virtual garments put on the virtual avatars. For this, we created virtual avatars and virtual garments using body measurements obtained from jive subjects of top jive body shapes, respectively, using $[TC]^2$ body scanner. According to the results of comparing the outcomes of the two different virtual software systems, virtual avatar II of V-Stitcher tended to have a more round and lifted hip and the waist line at a higher position. In addition, the body curves and shapes of a virtual avatar affect the appearance of virtual garments. This study applied the same body measurements to virtual avatars and the same pattern to virtual garments, but when different kinds of virtual software were used, the virtual avatars and virtual garments showed different appearance and fit. This result may mean that when customers buy apparel products using different kinds of virtual try-on systems, their evaluation of appearance can vary depending on the virtual try-on system. Therefore, research needs to be made actively for the development and use of linkage programs that can reflect actual body measurements between virtual software systems and 3D body scanning systems.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제21권5호
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• pp.109-121
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• 2017

In this study, we proposed the Bustier which improves the fit and functionality to compensate the physical defects by maximizing the volume up effect using the breast detailed measurements and shapes of the poor breast female subjects. Based on the preliminary study of the problem and preference according to the characteristics of the poor breast women consumers, we produced 1/2 volume mold cups based on the previous research. Respectively. A total of 5 subjects were selected, and new 3 bustier patterns based on the pattern making system of industry were created through direct measurement and shapes. As a result of verifying the usability of the developed bustier by testing the commercially available bustiers and the newly developed bustiers for 5 subjects. In order to compare the existing bustiers with the newly developed bustiers, the appearance evaluation by the expert, the evaluation of the adaptability and satisfaction by the subjects were utilized. Through this experiment, the newly developed bustiers were superior in the evaluation of the motion adaptability and wear comfort as well as appearance test. It was shown that the wear effect of the bustier with the longest back length was the best.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제28권5호
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• pp.637-647
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• 2004

The goal of this study was to develop bicycle apparel pattern for women cyclists. To investigate the pattern of bicycle apparel in Korea, anthropometric data were collected using direct and indirect measurements from October 2002 to July 2003. Three female subjects were recruited from forty measured women cyclists for pilot test. The differences between the responses of prototype bicycle apparel and existing bicycle apparel were compared using mean, standard deviation and t-test. The outfits for cyclists was completed through the three times rectification. Based on the results from the fit and appearance testing, I concluded as follows: The mean value of the center back length, back width, sleeve out-seam, bust ＆ thigh circumference, and weight of cyclists are more than the mean value of the non-cyclists. The result of fit evaluation by judges shows that there is a significant differences in the response to the shoulder, collar, movement of arms of jersey and movement of upper legs, crotch fit and general fit of shots. The result of appearance test between two outfits is no differences the mean value except the waist ease when sitting on cycle. Prototype bicycle apparel pattern for women cyclists developed and tested in this study have the potential to increase field performance and appearance.

• 복식
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• 제63권8호
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• pp.27-42
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• 2013

The study was aimed to develop men's working pants patterns through the computerized 3-D virtual clothing simulation system and to verify the effects of the 3-D simulated outfit by comparing it to the images of the actual outfits. The average body measurements of South Korean men aged between 30 and 39 used for the simulation in order to generate a 3-D virtual model and to realize outfits of men's working pants for the workers in the heavy industry in South Korea. And also the preliminary questionnaire survey results on certain aspects of the working pants such as type, detailed design preference and discomforting parts were taken into consideration. Both the simulated and real images of the developed working pants were compared in terms of the ease amount according to parts of the working pants, the position of seam lines, the appearance of darts and pleats, and the effects of the fabric surface according to expertise panels' subjective 5-point scale evaluation. The results throughout the study were (1) the basic working pants item worn by subject workers were the straight one pleated pants. The most discomforting parts of the working pants were in the order of body rise, thigh, hip, waist, pants hems and knee girth. (2) the drafting factors of pants patterns differed by the men's body features, which was related to the allocation of suppression amounts between waist and hip girths into darts and hip curve amounts on the waist line level of the pants. (3) the similarity of the virtually simulated and real images of men's working pants resulted in an average of 4.5 to the ease of appearance, 4.6 to the seam lines, 4.1 to the fabric surface effects in a 5-point scale, which means that the two were highly alike.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권6호
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• pp.955-968
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• 2010

Three-dimensional body data has been used in many industry fields including the apparel industry. This research used data from a study of the changes in lower body girth measurements from a 3D scan study of 25 female subjects aged 18 to 24 in four postures; a standing posture, a $120^{\circ}$ knee bend posture, a one pace stepping posture, and a sitting posture with a $90^{\circ}$ knee bend. We used the information on the difference between standing and seated measurements to adjust ease values for pants patterns an evaluation of the appearance, and the comfort of the pants. Waist girth in the sitting posture increased 8% compared to a standing posture and the hip girth measurement increased 7%. A basic pants pattern (pants A) with 2.4cm ease at the waist and 2.6cm ease at the hip was developed and a pants pattern (pants B) was developed using the rates of lower body girth change with a 5.7cm ease (8% change) at the waist and 7cm ease (7% change) at the hip. The appearance assessment items of pants A in a standing posture were higher than pants B. On the other hand, most appearance assessment items of pants B in a sitting posture were higher than pants A, especially the ease of pants back waistline and the appearance of the whole back. Comfort assessment items of pants B in both standing and sitting postures were higher than the comfort assessment items for pants A, especially the location of pants waistline, the ease of pants at the waistline, and the ease at the abdomen. In order to find the best level of ease for better appearance and comfort in both standing and sitting postures, 20 pants were constructed with ease values at the waist and hip in increments of 1.1cm in the range between the ease values of pants A and pants B. A fit test was conducted to compare the average appearance and comfort ratings that identified the pants with the best ease values at the waist and hip. The highest total mean was achieved in the pants with a waist ease of 4.6cm and hip ease of 4.8cm.