• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.532-542
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• 2014

This study developed a practical knitwear design with applying the pattern of Queen Yeong's pearl pouch. The ume flower pattern of pearl pouch was simplified to be one repeat pattern, and four simulated knit pattern samples of G-A, G-B, R-A, and R-Bwere made with cable, cross, and two background colors of gray and red using Texpro V.11.0. The items of design application were selected after an interview with a panel of university students in their twenties and knit samples were produced by hand knitting. The small sized G-A for the partial ornament of hat, sweater, skirt, kitchenware case and accessories; the long sized G-B for the tuck of sleeves, hem of skirt and one-piece dress, partial ornament of sweater, scarf, and curtain decoration: the small sized R-A was preferred for point ornament of pouch, boots, hat, partial ornament of children's fashion products and accessories: the long sized R-B for table runner, leg warmer, tuck of sleeves, skirt hem, necktie, and scarf. The knit samples were formulated with partial ornaments attached on dress and props or connected each other. Colors of pastel and navy were also presented to meet the demands of panels. The study placed a limit on the slight difference between the simulation samples and knit samples due to the characteristics of threads and hand tension. The color variation for multiple coordination and activation to reduce the piece rate for young customers remains to be discussed in the near future.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.445-454
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• 2008

The existing baseline taping methods were not applicable sometimes according to the body shape of dress form and they were often dependent on the personal ability and knowledge of modelist. It is very important to suggest the standardized baseline taping method which is applicable to various dress forms which have different body size and shape. It helps to communicate about clothing design and patternmaking between designer and manufacturer, and it also makes students to understand draping easily. So this study was performed to suggest the standardized baseline taping method which is easier and has consistency of taping result regardless of body shape of dress form. First, the existing 7 baseline taping methods were compared with 3 kinds of dress form which are reflecting different body shape and different age. Especially the location of baselines and landmarks which are important for draping are analyzed. Second, the new baseline taping method was developed with reference to the existing baseline taping methods, the standard body measurements of 2004 Size Korea and flat patternmaking. The standardized method for 12 landmarks and 11 baseline was suggested. Third, the appraisal group has performed baseline taping with both the existing method and new method on 2 kinds of dress form. The new method was superior to the existing method in uniformity of taping results as well as the degree of difficulty of taping. Development of the standardized baseline taping method which is applicable to various dress forms would make draping easier and be useful for both apparel industry and academia.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.788-798
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• 2009

This study aims to develop a highly reproducible, optimal frame design algorithm using variations in the curvature of armscye circumference, which will provide the basics for remodeling the 3D human body shape with the concept of reverse design used to develop total contents for the apparel industry. 1. The results of the experiment proved that ratio value was significantly efficient than absolute value of curvature variation to extract feature points in the armscye circumference 2. For the shoulder(1st and 2nd quadrant) and front armhole(3rd quadrant) parts of the armscye circumference, frame remodeling with the positive point of inflection led to the completion of a highly reproducible frame. 3. Similarly, even for the rear armhole part(4th quadrant) in the armscye circumference, it was found that frame remodeling using the positive maximum point of inflection resulted in highly reproducible body shape with the maximum point of inflection situated within the range of split angles $305^{\circ}{\sim}330^{\circ}$, while frame remodeling using simultaneously the two largest points of inflection including maximum point of inflection led to highly reproducible body shape with the maximum point of inflection out of the range $305^{\circ}{\sim}330^{\circ}$. 4. Based upon the optimal frame design algorithm developed in this study, section-specific feature points in the armscye circumference were extracted depending on the rate of curvature variation and remodeling with spline curves was conducted. The results indicate a remarkably high reproducibility(98.6%) and suggest that the algorithm developed in this study is suitable for human body modeling.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.74-81
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• 2015

This study explored the degree of cognition, purchasing experience and attitudes towards SPA brand attributes. This study examined the differences in variables and demographic characteristics against appearance interest groups. A questionnaire survey collected data from November $1^{st}$ and $15^{th}$ 2012. The convenience sample was drawn from females between the ages of 20 and 39 who lived in the Daegu and Gyeongbuk regions of South Korea. A total of 255 responses were complete and usable questionnaires. Data were tested through factor analysis, t-test, and ${\chi}^2$ test using SPSS 21.0. The results show that there were significant group differences in the cognition and purchasing experience of SPA brands and the attitudes towards SPA brand attributes. The high appearance interest group was more aware of SPA brands and evaluated SPA brand attributes more positively and bought more SPA brand products than the low appearance interest group. The high appearance interest group showed that domestic brands were excellent in low price among brand attributes but foreign brands were relatively excellent in various design and store display. There was a significant difference in educational level between appearance interest groups; however, there were no significant differences in age, marital status, and income level group. This study contributes to basic information for the SPA brand buying behavior research field and apparel industry marketing strategy by analyzing the relationship among appearance interest, cognition, SPA brand purchasing experience and SPA brand attribute attitudes.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.385-399
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• 2017

This study will broaden the application of doll costume product with historical characteristics and the image of unlined cheollik in the $17^{th}$ century period of transition during the Joseon Dynasty. Historical design sources were extracted from old documents and precedent studies. Unlined cheollik of Shin Gyeong-yu, meritorious retainer, were selected as main reference-relic because of various fabric, preserved conditions and definite shape. 'Baby doll' was selected as main model because of consumer preferences and awareness. Design sources from unlined cheollik in the early $17^{th}$ century were about a 1:2 ratio of upper and under parts, removable separated doori-somae, knife-shaped collar (outside), projected square collar (inside), long pleats line, side slit, traditional flat fell seam sewing. Trapezoidal side line, round waistline, and thin fabric were applied in designs because of toddler-body of doll model. Three designs were produced in step 1: Cheollik A focusing on the historical remake (traditional type), Cheollik B with belt and side slit (crossover type), and Cheollik C with back- opening (modern type). In step 2, interview with fashion major student was conducted to increase the utility of designs. As a result, modern trend sources (frill, velcro, round armhole line, slope of sleeves, and floral pattern) were reflected in Cheollik B, C. Finally, three doll cheollik and cheollik-styled doll apron sample were produced. Various versions must be suggested in the study of doll costume products with traditional sources that balance historical characteristics and practicality to improve customer satisfaction.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.19-30
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• 2002

The word 'lace' comes from the Latin, lacium, meaning a knot. There are two broad categories of lace: needlepoint lace and bobbin lace. Lace has enjoyed a multitude of uses, embellishing both liturgical and domestic objects. It has also played a major role in the history of western fashion, adorning the apparel of men as well as women. Lace lappets and cap crowns, cravat ends and veils were made for those who could afford them. Before the end of the sixteen century, more complex techniques were employed. The baroque period, needlepoint lace evolved from the early simple geometric patterns of punto in aria Which enhanced ruffs, to deeply scalloped designs, often referred to as collar lace, and thence to the bold and magnificent relief effects of Venetian gros point. Through the seventeenth century is noted for the infinite variety of its cravat, collar and kerchief, most of them lace trimmed and all artfully contrived for the wearer. The type of sleeve in women's dress reaching just below the elbow, ending in ruffles of lace which was called engageantes. Sometimes the ends of a fichu or headdress decorated of lace. In the nineteenth century, empress Eugenie's love of lace resulted in a marked increase in the use of that lovely, delicate fabrication. It was lavished upon sleeves, hats, capes, and handkerchieves. Entire flounces, parasols, jackets, and shawls of lace were created by skilled lace makers of Europe. By the time this magnificent piece was created, most lace was being produced by machine. Today, the tradition of handmade lace continues, but glorious examples are no longer made. However, the techniques have been taken up and revitalized within the fiber art movement.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.70-78
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• 2017

To predict and foster professional research issues for the present and future, it is important to understand the stream of research trends. This study is to provide information of research trend through analysis of quantitative variables in 1,374 articles from the first issue to the present(2015) of the Fashion and Textiles Research Journal. As a result, in the former periods, articles in the field of textile science & technology and fashion design & historical concerns, and articles that used experiments and others as a research method were dominant; in the latter periods, articles in the field of fashion marketing & merchandising and apparel production & technology, and articles that used survey as a research method were dominant. According to each detailed research field and method, there were significant differences in the number of pages, authors and references of articles. In addition, it was found that the number of pages and the number of references increased sharply in the latter period, indicating that the contents of the papers were more detailed and faithful to references of other studies. Through the analysis of this study, it was found that Fashion and Textiles Research Journal published a variety of articles in the academic fields. The research information analyzed in this study will contribute to the future design for the research as well as the academic societies.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.354-363
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to provide some preliminary results on application of 3D scan data of head shapes to the hat design and pattern-making. This paper defined necessary measurement items and concepts in 3-dimensional images of head shapes. And also it presented the methodology to pattern-making of 6-piece crown hat based on 3D data. It used the data of Size Korea to pick up and choose a head shape model with the average head size of Korean women in their twenties. Main results were: 1. The 3D scan data of head shape was better than the 1 dimensional measurement data. Because I could establish a hat pattern-making theory by the 3D scan data of head. 2. The 3D scan data provided the basis for conceptualization of basic measurement points and items for a better fit of hats as well as the definition of the basic hat circumference. 3. This presented a methodology for analyzing out head shape by 3D scan data, and allowed the derivation of the basic hat circumference from the maximum head circumference. 4. As the 6-piece Crown cloche hat made by this method fitted the head shape model perfectly, this methodology could suggest potential applicability to various hat design.

• The Journal of Asian Finance, Economics and Business
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• v.8 no.8
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• pp.47-56
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• 2021

ASEAN Economic Community (AEC) was established in 2015 from 10 countries to realize the ultimate (adopted in 1997), which aimed to transform ASEAN into a stable, prosperous, and highly competitive region with equitable economic development, reduced poverty, and socioeconomic disparities. The purpose of this paper is to examine the effect of knowledge level on the AEC of Vietnamese small and medium enterprises (SMEs) in the textile and apparel industry towards attitudes, readiness, and performance. This study uses convenience sampling to get questionnaires from 150 SMEs in Hanoi, Vietnam. Then, the paper applies SPSS-AMOS 24 to process data. The empirical results show that AEC's implementation only has a small impact on improving SME performance. However, SMEs have adequate knowledge, attitude, and readiness about AEC. The structural modeling findings indicate that the knowledge factor has an indirect effect on SMEs' performance. This finding is to provide new insight into the roles of attitude and readiness in the case of Vietnam. These factors are needed to mediate the effect of attitudes and readiness in the relationship between knowledge and business performance, a framework strategy of business organizations, and can be used as a conceptual model to improve SMEs' performance.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.10
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• pp.104-118
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to examine the recent various developments of men's fashion by analyzing how exotic tastes were presented in men's modern fashion from 2001 to 2010. For this purpose, a researcher reviewed relevant studies to identify the styles of exotic tastes that were reflected in men's modern fashion specifically in Chinese, Japanese, Indian, East Asian, American, North American and South American styles. Findings of this study is summarized as follows. Main examples of men's modern fashion were found in Chinese-style apparel such as the magwae, queue, coolie hat and the Mao jacket. The Kimono and the samurai robe, both of which best represent Japanese apparel and the Japanese traditional patterns also had an influence on men's modern fashion Indian style clothing such as dhoti, veshti and lungi which cover the lower body, vajani as loose trousers, kurta of full-over tunic form and turban also had an effect as well. The men's modern fashion is also impacted by Middle Asian styles that includes the thobe, sirwaal, futah, which is sort of a skirt that is long enough to cover the calf and whose front parts overlap each other, turbans and the hempen hood which is fixed with the agal. Exotic elements such as animal skins, body painting, tattoos and head dresses found in African styles can also be found in men's modern fashion. Parts of North American style influence come from the applications of Indians' costume and head dress. The surveyed men's modern fashion of the South America style was represented by the applications of natives' costume and Andean tunic, loincloth and shawl. In all of the exotic styles found in men's modern fashion, historicity, eclecticism, aestheticism and nature-orientation are implied. They are the source of inspirations that promote changes and diversity in men's modern fashion.