• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.11
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• pp.1190-1197
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze methods of women's apparel prototypes and provide for some useful fundamental data to improve the apparel prototype suitable for Korean women. Two different drafting methods, the Bunka pattern of Japan Bunka Women's University and the Secoli pattern of Italy istituto carlo secoli, an italian pattern drafting institute, were selected. The result and discussion are as follows; In the calculation formula, the Bunka was shown more comfort at arm-hole part, because of it's lower arm-hole depth, wider arm-hole width and lower cap height in comparison with the Secoli. At the shoulder angle, the Bunka is inclined more in front shoulder than the back shoulder, whereas the Secoli is inclined more in back shoulder than the front shoulder. It could explain that the Bunka is suitable for bendforward type and the Secoli is suitable for lean-back type. In the sensory test, the one-piece pattern of the Secoli with 4cm ease was highly estimated in ease. It seems young women's preference to body conscious clothes which reflected in many new elastic fabrics. At the bust point to neck, the Bunka was highly estimated, compared with the Secoli. It seems like to be caused that for the bust point to neck formula, the Bunka used bust girth, the Secoli used stature which has low correlation with the bust point to neck.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.637-646
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• 2016

The goal of this study is to provide basic data on developing circular knit basic pattern for women in their 20's. Production conditions of circular knit product pattern making among domestic women's apparel industry was researched, and collected data on sizes and ease amounts from woven and circular knit pattern were compared and analyzed. According to the result of the survey, product measurements adjusted to the actual body size fit for the brand's image were used, and the common problem among manufacturers and consumers regarding circular knit products turned out to be change in size and form due to stretching. For the basic pattern of circular knit, stretching quality was reflected in the woven basic pattern based on plain stitch(single knit) and then dart was removed and ease amount was reduced. The result of looking into size and ease amount about woven and circular knit torso & sleeve block shows that there is a significant difference among chest circumference, hip circumference, bi-shoulder length, interscye back, interscye front, scye depth, upper arm circumference and wrist circumference, and it was clear that circumference and width on the areas around the wrist tended to fit around the body more when circular knit was used instead of woven fabric.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.709-717
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• 2002

In the apparel industry, the technology has been advanced rapidly. The use of 3D scanning systems fur the capture and measurement of human body is becoming common place. Three dimensional digital image can be used for design, inspection, reproduction of physical objects. The purpose of this study is to develop a method that drafts men's basic bodice pattern from scanned 3D body surface shape data. In order to pursue this purpose the researchers developed pattern drafting algorithm. The 3D scanner used in this study was Cyberware Whole Body Scanner WB-4. The bodice pattern drafting algorithm from 3D body surface shape data developed in this study is as follows. First, convert geometric 3D body surface data to 3D polygonal mesh data. Second, develop algorithm to lay out 3D polygonal patches onto a plane using Auto Lisp program. The polygon meshes are coplanar, and the individual mesh is continuously in contact with next one The bodice front surface shape data in polygonal patches form was lined up in bust and waist levels. The back bodice was drafted by lining up the polygonal mesh in scapula, chest, and waist levels. in the drafts, gaps between polygons were formed into the darts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.68-79
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• 2004

This study aims to understand the history of the Victorian age that attached importance to various designs and aesthetic aspects by art and craft movement, and to present that the Victorian pattern is a factor with unlimited possibility in application and development of the modern textile product designs. Therefore, through documents research home and abroad, I considered the periodical background of the Victorian style, a change course of textile, and the theoretical backing of the Victorian pattern, and I studied and analyzed the cases of being applied in the modern textile product designs by classifying apparel, home interior, and fashion accessories. First of all, in apparel, the Victorian pattern transformed into geometrical form had much relative importance, and secondly, in the home interior, the Victorian pattern was expressed realistically or it was represented more boldly and complexly with new materials or techniques introduced. Thirdly, in fashion accessories, decorative nature was shown in intense design with the real description of the Victorian flower pattern and brilliant colors. With these results, it was found out that when the Victorian pattern was applied in the modern textile product designs, it was the factor that could be expected to make a high value added suitable with the modern sense, and it was the pattern with developmental potential with its unlimited use range. Therefore, based on this study, it is considered that the development of textile product designs utilizing the Victorian pattern and academic research, reorganizing the Victorian pattern in accordance with the modern design should be continued.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.719-727
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• 2009

The ultimate success of commercial applications of body scan data in the apparel industry will be consumers' substantial applications such as automated custom fit, size prediction, virtual try-on, personal shopper services (Loker, S. et al., 2004). In this study, we surveyed fifty consumers and forty-seven apparel industry workers about their recognition and interest in 3D body scanning and virtual try-on. The results are as follows: 55% of the apparel industry workers has recognized 3D body scanning as a convenient technology, but do not know how to use it. To the questions regarding virtual try-on, 53% of the workers give positive answers. The consumers have a more positive view on virtual try-on than the workers do. The workers predict that the application of 3D body scan technology to the apparel industry could offer customers helpful information in their clothing selection by using virtual images of various size and style, and increase mass production of MTM(Made-To-Measure). The answers from the male consumers in their twenties indicate that virtual try-on is useful by 88% on offline shopping and by 100% on online shopping. 53% of the workers and 68% of the consumers gave answers that just by virtual try-on they could judge the quality of the apparel products and purchase them. Absolutely 3D virtual try-on is an effective tool for online shoppers. 85% of the workers anticipate applications of the 3D body scanning also in 'body measurement', 'custom pattern development' as well as 'virtual try-on' in the near future. With the positive reactions and the stimulating interests in virtual try-on, the conditions of contemporary world encourage more active researches and wide usages of the technology in apparel industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.115-125
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• 2006

The study on plane composition in clothing was focused mainly on woven wear earlier but its application has been reaching the knit wear. This study is confined to the utilization with geometrical linear pattern in the modern apparel. The work here intends to grasp the plane structure found in both woven wear and knit wear and, in particular, to understand the aesthetics of fashion. The modern flat patterned clothing has been affected by the oriental style or postmodernism in view of social and cultural aspect while its fabric material and expression method shows the diversity in terms of industrial and technical aspect. It can be characterized as several outstanding patterns: the geometrical pattern in structure, the linear pattern with seam line and 2-dimensional plane pattern without seam line, and the flexible silhouette integrated into one single shape with human body unlike the traditional apparel The aesthetics of fashion in modern flat patterned clothing can be divided into such category as the organically spatial change, the re-creation of tradition and the non-format framework. The organically spatial change shows the geometrical formation in clothes due to change in dimension, where the organically changing uniformity and generosity appears as the dimension progresses. The timeless without any difference of up and down, left and right, and inside and outside and the discontinuity due to limitless spatial change are also imbedded. The re-creation of tradition tells the reshaped spirits of old tradition by integrating and modifying the hereditary features in the old customed clothing into modern clothing. The modern flat patterned clothing implies the contemporaneousness or the frame through which the old and modern cultures may be shared and indicates the re-creation of the past and uniformity. The non-format framework contains the uncertainty in meaning and it doesn't have any certain standards. As both the apparel and the human body with this style aim at the open space, the numerous contingencies are realized.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.6
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• pp.766-775
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• 2016

In the era of globalization and unlimited competition, Korean universities need a breakthrough in their education system according to the changing education landscape, such as lower graduation requirements to cultivate more multi-talented convergence leaders. While each student has different learning capabilities, which results in different performance and achievements in the same class, the uniform education that most universities are currently offering fails to accommodate such differences. Blended learning, synergically combining offline and online classes, enlarges learning space and enriches learning experiences through diversified tools and materials, including multimedia. Recently, universities are increasingly adopting video contents and on-offline convergence learning strategy. Thus, this study suggests a teaching method based on blended learning to more effectively teach existing pattern CAD and virtual CAD in the Apparel Pattern CAD class. To this end, this researcher developed a teaching-learning method and curriculum according to the blended learning phase and video-based contents. The curriculum consisted of 2D CAD (SuperAlpha: Plus) and 3D CAD (CLO) software learning for 15 weeks. Then, it was loaded to the Learning Management System (LMS) and operated for 15 weeks both online and offline. The performance analysis of LMS usage found that class materials, among online postings, were viewed the most. The discussion menu most accurately depicted students' participation, and students who did not participate in discussions were estimated to check postings less than participating students. A survey on the blended learning found that students prefer digital or more digitized classes, while preferring face to face for Q&As.

• The Korean Fashion and Textile Research Journal
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• v.26 no.1
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• pp.78-87
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• 2024

This study aimed to propose an innovative teaching pedagogy using a half-scale body form in apparel design education and evaluate its effectiveness in augmenting students' understanding of ergonomic patterns. Constructed in alignment with Phoenix's (2018) study, which used 3D body scanning and digital editing software, the half-scale body form was created through a five-step process, encompassing body measurement, 3D body modeling, fabrication of a physical half-scale body form, pattern making, and evaluation. Implemented in an undergraduate patternmaking course offered at a 4-year university in the metropolitan Seoul, this instructional approach's effectiveness was gauged through students' course projects and exit interviews. The results underscored the positive impact of the proposed teaching pedagogy on students' grasp of ergonomic pattern development, fostering a keen understanding of diverse body shapes and sizes and the relationship between the human body and garments. Furthermore, it played a role in cultivating positive body image and self-endorsement among students. The research contributes meaningfully by presenting a fresh perspective in apparel design education, seamlessly integrating advanced anthropometric and technological tools into a conventional patternmaking classroom. It offers a novel learning experience for students majoring in apparel, creating a fun and interactive teaching environment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.152-166
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to make patterns for lingerie look after examining expressive characteristics and constructive elements of lingerie look. As underwear became outerwear, position of wearing, materials, and details had changed, and the phenomenon to expose one's body has increased. The constructive elements found in the lingerie look were classified into silhouette, fastening, dart, and cutting line. Many of corset looks revealed cutting lines such as diagonal, perpendicular, and horizon. Brassiere look used perpendicular rutting lines or horizontal cutting lines passing through the bust point in order to highlight the volume by adding darts. There were styles Of chemise looks that used princess lines or separately added a brassier on the breast. Based on the examination of the elements, a total of four apparel works were created, including one flat pattern and three draping patterns. With new infra-apparel designs and patterns, this study was able to artificially highlight the body and express the beauty of costume through revelation of body. In addition, it explored the possibility that the phenomenon that underwear becomes outerwear may be a new idea of dress designing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.11
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• pp.1627-1637
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• 2002

The objective of this study is to analyze the images of basic bodice apparel displayed on the PC monitor connected to digital camera, and to suggest a more efficient alternative method that enables the expert judge to evaluate the subject both traditional method and displayed images on the computer. Appearance evaluation has traditionally been assessed using subjective method dependent upon expertjudges' senses with the naked eye after direct observation of a living model. This research faces the new challenge focusing on the sensory evaluation of appearance for basic apparel patterns, which can overcome the space and time limitations of the traditional feet methods. A total fifteen basic bodice garment (3 types of $pattern\;{\times}\;5$ subject) were constructed with same fabrics. The appearance evaluation items consist of lg questions of upper torso. The image takes font, back and side view of the dressed subject with three different situations. Data was analyzed using percentiles, standard deviation T-test and ANOVA. Taken together, the present result of appearance evaluation through digital camera image shows that there is a significant difference ($p{\leq}.001$) in the response to the placement of the neckline, the waist & shoulder dart, the general ease of the bust & waist area, the side seam, the perpendicular of the waist hem and general acceptability between the above three different situations; the image in the condition of greenish yellow background with front light showed the highest score through all questions. These results depend on the kind of background colors with the light.