• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.31 no.4 s.54
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• pp.349-357
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• 2005

New antioxidative substances for cosmeceuticals were screened from natural resources such as microbial metabolites, mushrooms, and medicinal plants. Four antioxidants were isolated from the fungal metabolite of Eupenicillium shearii and their structures were determined to be new phenolic compounds. The compounds were designated as melanocins A, B, C, and D. Melanocins $A{\sim}D$ exhibited free radical scavenging activity on DPPH and superoxide with $EC_{50}$ values of $21{\sim}94\;and\;7{\sim}84{\mu}M$, respectively, which were stronger activity than those of ${\alpha}-tocopherol$ and BHA. Melanocin A showed anti-wrinkle effects on the UV-irrated hairless mouse skin. A novel hispidin antioxidative compound designated as inoscavin A was isolated from the fruiting body of the mushroom, Inonotus xeranticus. Inoscavin A scavenged superoxide radical with $EC_{50}$ values of $0.03{\mu}g/mL$, and inhibited rat liver microsomal lipid peroxidation with $EC_{50}$ values of $0.3{\mu}g/mL$. Benzastatins $A{\sim}G$, the novel antioxidants isolated from the culture of Streptomyces nitrosporeus showed potent lipid peroxidation inhibitory activity with $EC_{50}$ values of $3{\sim}30{\mu}M$. A cyclopentene compound with strong hypopigmentary effect was isolated from the fungal metabolite of Penicillium sp. and identifed as terrein. Terrein significantly reduced melanin levels in a melanomacyte cell line, Mel-Ab. It showed 10 times stronger activity than kojic acid, but exhibited no cytotoxic effect even in $100{\mu}M$. It was suggested that terrein reduced melanin synthesis by reducing tyrosinase production by MITF down-regulation.

• Applied Chemistry for Engineering
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.178-184
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• 2011

In this study, the antibacterial, antioxidative and inhibitory effects of Allium cepa peel extracts on tyrosinase and elastase were investigated. MIC values of the ethyl acetate fraction of Allium cepa peel on especially, S. aureus among the skin resident flora (Staphylococcus aureus, S. aureus; Propionibacterium acnes, P. acnes; Pityrosporum ovale, P. ovale; Escherichia coli, E. coli) were 0.06%. The aglycone fraction showed more excellent free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical, DPPH) scavenging activity ($FSC_{50}=5.05{\mu}g/mL$). Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities ($OSC_{50}$) of the ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction in the luminol-dependent $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were 0.05 and $0.03{\mu}g/mL$, respectively. The cellular protective effect of the aglycone fraction on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes exhibited more prominent (${\tau}_{50}$, 480 min at $25{\mu}g/mL$). The inhibitory effects ($IC_{50}$) of the ethyl acetate fraction and aglycone fraction on tyrosinase were 9.16 and $8.68{\mu}g/mL$, the inhibitory effect ($IC_{50}$) of the aglycone fraction on elastase was $14.12{\mu}g/mL$ The transepidermal water loss of the cream containing 0.1% ethyl acetate fraction was decreased from $8.3g/m^2h$ in control to $6.8g/m^2h$ in the subjects applied with cream containing the ethyl acetate fraction. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Allium cepa peel can function as antioxidant in biological systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS, and possibly as antiaging agents. Allium cepa peel extract could be used as a new cosmeceutical for whitening and anti-wrinkle products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.34 no.3
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• pp.233-244
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• 2008

In this study, the antioxidative effects, inhibitory effects on elastase and tyrosinase, and component analysis of Psidium guajava leaf extracts were investigated. The free radical (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, DPPH) scavenging activities $(FSC_{50})$ of extract/fractions of Psidium guajava leaf were in the order: 50% ethanol extract $(7.05{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethyl acetate fraction $(3.36{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction $(3.24{\mu}g/mL)$. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activities $(OSC_{50})$ of some Psidium guajava leaf extracts on ROS generated in $Fe^{3+}-EDTA/H_2O_2$ system were investigated using the luminol-dependent chemiluminescence assay. The order of ROS scavenging activities were 50% ethanol extract $(OSC_{50},\;2.17{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethyl acetate fraction $(0.64{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction $(3.39{\mu}g/mL)$. Aglycone fraction showed the most prominent ROS scavenging activity. The protective effects of extract/fractions of Psidium guajava leaf on the rose-bengal sensitized photohemolysis of human erythrocytes were investigated. The Psidium guajava leaf extracts suppressed photohemolysis in a concentration dependent manner $(1{\sim}10{\mu}g/mL)$, particularly deglycosylated flavonoid aglycone fraction exhibited the most prominent celluar protective effect ${\tau}_{50}\;107.5min\;at\;1{\mu}g/mL)$. Aglycone fraction obtained from the deglycosylation reaction of ethyl acetate fraction among the Psidium guajava leaf extracts, showed 1 band in TLC and 1 peak in HPLC experiments (360 nm). One component was identified as quercetin. TLC chromatogram of ethyl acetate fraction of Psidium guajava leaf extract revealed 5 bands and HPLC chromatogram showed 5 peaks, which were identified as quercetin 3-O-gentobioside (10.32%) , quercetin 3-O-${\beta}$-D-glucoside (isoquercitin, 13.30%), quercetin 3-O-${\beta}$-D-galactoside (hyperin, 11.34%), quercetin 3-O-${\alpha}$-L-arabinoside (guajavarin, 19.70%), quercetin 3-O-${\beta}$-L-rhamnoside (quercitrin, 45.33%) in the order of elution time. The inhibitory effect of Psidium guajava leaf extracts on tyrosinase were investigated to assess their whitening efficacy. Finally, their anti-elastase activities were measured to predict the anti-wrinkle efficacy in the human skin. Inhibitory effects $(IC_{50})$ on tyrosinase of some Psidium guajava leaf extracts was 50% ethanol extract $(149.67{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethylacetate fraction $(30.67{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated aglycone fraction $(17.10{\mu}g/mL)$. Inhibitory effects $(IC_{50})$ on elastase of some Psidium guajava leaf extracts was 50% ethanol extract $(6.60{\mu}g/mL)$ < deglycosylated aglycone fraction $(5.66{\mu}g/mL)$ < ethylacetate fraction $(3.44{\mu}g/mL)$. These results indicate that extract/fractions of Psidium guajava leaf can function as antioxidants in bioloigcal systems, particularly skin exposed to UV radiation by scavenging $^1O_2$ and other ROS, and protect cellular membranes against ROS. And component analysis of Psidium guajava leaf extract and inhibitory activity on elastase of the aglycone fraction could be applicable to new functional cosmetics for smoothing wrinkles.

• Korean Journal of Food Science and Technology
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• v.40 no.4
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• pp.436-442
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• 2008

Hydroxyproline and Pro-Hyp dipeptide are the digestive products of collagen hydrolysate called collagen peptide. Some suggested that collagen peptides could improve aged or damaged skins, however, the effects of collagen peptides on the skin have not been known. In this study, we investigated the effects of digestive products of collagen peptides, hydroxyproline and Pro-Hyp dipeptide on skin quality using the UV-damaged dorsal skin of hairless mouse as a model system. Female SKH hairless mice were pre-irradiated with UV for 7 weeks, and then hydroxyproline, Pro-Hyp dipeptide were orally administered for 7 weeks with UV irradiation. Wrinkle formation (by replica image), skin elasticity, barrier status (by TEWL, transepidermal water loss), epidermis thickness, and biophysical changes in the stratum comeum (by hematoxylin & eosin staining) were examined. With the oral peptide treatment, effects such as skin barrier maintenance, anti-skin thickening, and recovery of the stratum corneum were observed. These results indicate that oral intake of collagen peptides may have beneficial effects on damaged skin cells.

• Food Science and Preservation
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• v.23 no.3
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• pp.393-401
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• 2016

The phenolic compounds extracted from Aster scaber were examined for their biological activities owing to their potential use in health and beauty food products. The phenolic content in water and 60% ethanol extracts were $11.1{\pm}0.11$ and $4.18{\pm}0.05mg/g$, respectively. The DPPH radical scavenging activities of the water and ethanol extracts were 87% and 91% at $50{\mu}g$ phenolics/mL, respectively. At the same phenolics concentration, the respective extracts showed 84% and 95% for ABTS radical decolorization activities and 95% and 97% for TBARs. The antioxidant protection factors for the water and ethanol extracts at $200{\mu}g$ phenolics/mL were 1.87 and 2.22 PF, respectively. Enzyme inhibitory activities of the water and ethanol extracts ($50{\mu}g$ phenolics/mL) were 50.8% and 69.4% on angiotensin converting enzyme, 91% and 80% on xanthine oxidase, and 24% and 89% on ${\alpha}$-amylase, respectively. The tyrosinase inhibitory activities indicating skin-whitening were 47% and 25% for the water and ethanol extracts, respectively. Anti-wrinkle effect of the water extract was relatively higher than that of the ethanol extract. These results suggest that the water and ethanol extracts of Aster scaber can be used as an ingredient in health and beauty food products.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.39 no.3
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• pp.177-186
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• 2013

Skin dermal fibroblast is the major collagen-producing cell type in human skin. As aging process continues in human skin, collagen production is reduced and fragmentation is increased, which is initiated by matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1). This imbalance of collagen homeostasis impairs the structure and function of dermal collagenous extracellular matrix (ECM), thereby promoting skin aging. Cysteine-rich protein 61 (CCN1), a member of the CCN family, negatively regulates collagen homeostasis in primary human skin dermal fibroblast cells. It is known in aging fibroblast cells that elevated CCN1 expression substantially reduces type I procollagen and concurrently increases MMP-1, which initiates fibrillar collagen degradation. And proliferation rate of aging fibroblast cells is reduced compared to the pre-aging fibroblast cells. In this study, we confirmed that the replicative senescence dermal fibroblast cells increased the expression levels of MMP-1 and decreased the production of type I procollagen. Our results also showed that the replicative senescence dermal fibroblast cells increased in the expression of CCN1 and decreased in the proliferation rate. Hydrolyzed Ulva pertusa extracts are the materials to improve photo-aging by reducing the expression of MMP-1 that was increased by ultraviolet and by promoting the synthesis of new collagen from fibroblast cells. In this study, we also investigated the hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract to see whether it inhibits CCN1 protein expression in the senescence fibroblasts. Results showed that the hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract inhibited the expression of MMP-1 and increased the production of type I procollagen in the aging skin fibroblast cells cultured. In addition, the proteins that regulate collagen homeostasis CCN1 expression were greatly reduced. The hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract increased the proliferation rate of the aging fibroblast cells. These results suggest that replicative senescent fibroblast cells may be used in the study of cosmetic ingredients as a model of the natural aging. In conclusion, the hydrolyzed U. pertusa extract can be used in anti-wrinkle functional cosmetic material to improve the natural aging skin care as well as photo-aging.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.32 no.11
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• pp.865-871
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• 2022

Tenebrio molitor larvae is well known as edible insect. Then, although it has been widely studied that Tenebrio molitor larvae has various bioactive functions such as antioxidant, anti-wrinkle, and anticancer. Nevertheless, antioxidant effects of Tenebrio molitor larvae water extract (TMH) has not been well described in Adult Retina Pigment Epithelial cell line (ARPE-19). In this study, we demonstrated that antioxidant effects of TMH against H₂O₂-induced oxidative stress in ARPE-19. Thus, we selected for our studies and performed a series of dose-response assay to determine the working concentration that lead to a consistent and high degree of cytotoxicity, which we defined as the level of H₂O₂ that killed 40% of the ARPE-19 cells. ARPE-19 cells were pre-treated with various concentrations of TMH (0.1 up to 2 mg/ml) before exposure to 300 µM H₂O₂. As we expected, TMH effectively prevented ARPE-19 cells from 300 µM H₂O₂-induced cell death in a dose-dependent manner. Furthermore, TMH inhibited the phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs) such as extracellular signal regulated kinase (ERK), c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), and p38. Overall, the inhibitory effects of TMH on H₂O₂-induced apoptosis and oxidative stress were associated with the protection cleaved caspase-3, Bax, Bcl-2, and HO-1. The TMH suppressed H₂O₂-induced cell membrane leakage and oxidative stress in ARPE-19 cells. Thus, these results suggest that the TMH plays an important role in antioxidant effect in ARPE-19.