Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.29
no.3_4
s.141
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pp.449-461
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2005
The purpose of this study is to rediscover the hidden value of non-mainstreamers style which has been overlooked for the past decade by investigate the aesthetics and formative features of the Grunge fashion. The Grunge fashion was derived from explosive popularity of the early 90's grunge music. Grunge was the alternative anti-thesis against mainstream pop music and anti-fashion against mainstream fashion. Dirty, rubbish grunge style of the poor street youth and grunge musicians have raised to the high fashion by designers. And These trial of designers made people to notice the value of the non-mainstreamers street style like grunge. Actually, the grunge brought the shock with many argument to the 90's fashion field. But now, It became the classic of the street fashion. And It has potent influence on the music, culture and high fashion. The Grunge is a kind of links between music and fashion, street fashion and high fashion, sub culture and mainstream culture, the past and now. Grunge isn't only a fashion of appearance. It is the attitude of wearing clothes and living a life. Variety grunge style in the international street fashion, high fashion, typical musicians's fashion of the 1990's and the 2000's was researched for this study. These materials were gathered from music magazines, fashion magazines, movies, musics and books. As a results of analysis, Grunge has the formative features like mix & match, layering, patchwork, primitive edge, rag, retro, recycle, kinderwhore, sneer scribbling, disheveled hair. Grunge also has the Aesthetic features like the beauty of $disorder{\cdot}\;disharmony{\cdot}\;incompleteness{\cdot}\;kitsch{\cdot}\;poverty{\cdot}\;alternative{\cdot}\;eclectic{\cdot}$symbiosis. For the last 10 years, These features changed our fashion be more pluralistic and dynamic.
This study investigated the effects of persimmon-dyed clothing materials upon thermophysiological responses and subjective comfort sensations during exercise and rest in a warm environment. Six healthy, untrained women participated in two separate testing sessions, with cotton materials dyed with astringent persimmon extract (DC) and undyed cotton materials (UDC). The physical characteristics associated with heat and moisture transfer were improved in DC; also, stiffness, anti-drapery stiffness and crispness in the primary hand values were higher in DC. The experimental protocol consisted of a 10-min rest, 15-min exercise on a treadmill (at ${7km{\cdot}h^{-1}}$) and 25-min recovery at $28{\pm}0.2^{\circ}C$ and $50{\pm}3%\;RH$. The results were as follows: When wearing DC rather than UDC, mean body temperature, heart rate, heat storage and body mass loss were significantly lower during the whole experimental period. Clothing microclimate temperature showed different profiles between the two clothing materials, being lower with DC than UDC during the first half of exercise and the second half of recovery. Clothing microclimate humidity was significantly lower with DC than UDC during the whole experimental period. When wearing UDC, subjects felt significantly warmer and less comfortable during exercise, and sensed greater humidity during exercise and recovery. These results suggest that eco-friendly clothing materials dyed with astringent persimmon extract can reduce exercise-induced heat load and improve subjective sensations when exercising and resting in a warm environment, due to greater heat dissipation from the body to the outside environment compared with undyed clothing materials.
The cultures and traditions of Asia has the roots so deep and it is the origin of inspiration. Therefore, it is easy to find a different inspiration when designing, expecially for Western designers who are seeking European tradition and its comparison. The most distinctive feature of the Asian look is non-structural and has no clear form close to the structure of the body or mathematical ratio, but is steric with 2-Dimensional planed textiles, and has a flexible, non-structural formative characteristic related to the movable body. This is base on the vision of the universe that regards the parts as the whole. From this research, generally studying about the Asian look and its non-structural formative characteristics. The study looked closely into the aesthetic value of non-structural formative characteristics formation, with basis on the large dress regulation system of the western reasoning and rationalism and mechanism. At first, my study pointed on the dressing functionalism or Neo-classism considering emotions, Anti-Western aspect observing surrealism dressing and expressionism dressing. Second, with men and women showing similar outer shape without the equivalent element such from wearing a corset, the sexism is abolished. Finally, the designers’ inner intention of art is being delivered, from the aspect that the expression of art, size and no waste of fabric shows effort of communicating with the world, giving value to the possibility of continuance.
Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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v.11
no.5
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pp.1547-1551
/
2010
We newly propose the silver alloys of Ag-5wt%Ge-2.5wt%Cu(Ge1) and Ag-5wt%In-2.5wt%(In1) to overcome the tarnish and mechanically weak problems of the conventional sterling silver Ag-7.5wt%Cu (Cu1). We check the castability, surface color stability during process and wearing, and work hardening with plastic deformation of all three silver alloys. Our newly proposed silver alloys of Ge1 and In1 showed improved castability, anti-tarnish stability, and work hardening property compared to the conventional sterling silver, which implied that these alloys might be more appropriate for the high-end silver jewelry.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.21
no.8
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pp.1427-1438
/
1997
The art plastique is the part from which designers draw their inspirations to create fashion design. Many designers look for their inspirations from Art Plastique. Since the early 20th century, lots of designers led by Paul Poiret drew their inspirations from Art and co-works with artists. The direct involvement of those artists helped to position Fashion to be an art. Also, these co-works brought the mass media's attention and commercial profit. The most prevalent relationship between the fashion design and art plastique is the reproduction of art such as the 1960s 'Pop Art printed on T-shirts, which can be seen easily todays. After World War ll, art was popularized in a new society where young generation played a major role. Pop Art having image of the freedom and the rejection of tradition was considered as the major trend of 1960s. This study considers reflection of anti-traditionalism, anti-elitism and popularity as the kitsch of Pop. That is the attraction which youth culture looked for from Pop Art and the reason that 60's avast-garde cloth could position itself into the masses. Therefore, this study examines the influence of the kitsch of Pop and the expression of parody upon the major changes in 1960s fashion from which are the mini-look and women's trousers wearing. This study examines Andra Courreges who led 1960s Mini look and Yves Saint Laurent who introduced Pop dress, Smoking look and transparent blouse to find the way which makes it possible for avant garde fashion to have a close relationship with the public and to position itself to be a art.
This study is an attempt to analyze the daily life of the Western-yearning Seoul citizens and the inflow of the Western culture into certain social classes. The customs of the characters in the film are studied to illustrate the process of deconstruction of Korean traditional clothes due to the Western influence. The combined application of the Western and Korean styles is also observed. All this study leads to the sense of homogeneity of the times and the conformity to the culture the Korean women shared, which boils down to the social identity of the Korean women who sought an escape from the men-centered social structure by displaying their competence in the field of global modern fashion. As Seonyeong Oh, the main character of the film, , was wearing in the movie the Korean traditional dress, socks, rubber shoes, and then a western-style coat, it well shows that in 1950's, the traditional dress and ornaments were mixed with Western styles. In time, men's wear were completely changed from the traditional Korean clothes to suits, while women's could not break off from the traditional clothes and become westernized, which indicates that the men-centered conservative ideas to keep women within the feudal regime of the society remained. The military look of Seonyeong Oh while she was acting in the society was a symbol of anti-bias against women and anti-convention as well as the will of freedom as an independent woman. Besides, the modern girls would wear clothes of military fashion, Dior's trapeze line, and knit styles flattering the figures. All these well show their desires to embrace Western cultures, especially their dress fashions as well as manners as so-called enlightened ladies. All these elements show that the director was trying to represent the progress of the drama, characters, and psychological states by means of the dress and ornaments.
The Journal of the Convergence on Culture Technology
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v.6
no.4
/
pp.599-604
/
2020
Since Corona 19, awareness about antibacterial bacteria has changed. Hand washing after going out became a necessity. Also, fogging occurs a lot on the glasses depending on the wearing of the mask. This problem has caused a lot of discomfort in our daily life and changed our perception of antibacterial and anti-fogging. Therefore, in this study, we studied whether mugwort extract is effective in preventing antibacterial and fogging. To obtain the mugwort extract, mugwort was dried, alcohol extracted, and freeze-dried. An antibacterial test was performed using a mixture of mugwort extract, zinc oxide and natural zeolite mixed in 3:7, and a fogging test was performed using mugwort extract and other mixtures. As a result, in the case of E. coli and K. pneumoniae, which were used as test strains in the antibacterial test, the bacteria were not cultured from the medium added with 1% mugwort extract, and the antibacterial activity against representative Gram-negative bacteria was confirmed. In the anti-fog test, a 10 wt% mixture of mugwort extract showed very good results in both the hot and cold parts. We expect the mugwort extract to be effective in antibacterial and anti-fogging, thus helping to overcome Corona 19.
These days, sexual harassment in the workplace or at school is being socially visualized. In this study, the desirable direction for clothing behavior is suggested by discussing the relationship between sexual desire and clothing. The relationship between sexual impulse and clothing is provided by studying college student's general opinion about sexual desire, also different ideas from females and males about the clothes that cause sexual impulses were studied, moreover, the desirable direction for clothing behavior is suggested by comparing the perceptions of college students about overly revealing clothing. This study performed the self description method and in-depth interview method on male and female college students at 3 University for 3 weeks from May, 28, 2007 to June, 23, 2007. After which 564 survey papers were distributed. The program SPSS WIN 12.0 was used to statistically analyze the data Frequency analysis, cross analysis, T-test, and a reliability test were performed on the study subject. According to the study results, sexual impulses are affected not only by internal factors but also external factors such as clothing and it is an important point. Women should not only pursue an attractive external appearance but also consider how other people think and respond to the message, and they should protect themselves from sexual harassment, or sexual violence, which are anti-social behaviors, by wearing clothes that are less stimulating.
In contemporary fashion metal have used which is as the material with a sufficient potentiality of expression which is displayed by an unique characteristic involved only in metal. In this paper metal expressed in contemporary fashion is researched. The first thing the formative characteristic of metal is researched under the consideration of type technique and color of metal used in contemporary fashion. Metals such as gold silver bronze aluminum thin lead and iron are usually used in fashion and those metals are used in various types such a thread fabric board leaf a and cable. Those types of metal as above are applied to the clothing by the techniques of weaving embroidering metal leaf printing or moulding which gives the formative characteristic to the clothing. In color metal has an effect on the colors of surroundings by its smooth and unique luster and its effect of reflection and produces the visual formative characteristic through the effects of contrast. The esthetic will of metal expressed in modern fashion is researched in this study under the facts studied as above. first metal expresses the future oriented esthetic Second metal has the characteristic of attracting the attention Third metal is used as valid techniques to express the artistic formation for clothing escaping from the idea that the clothing is only for wearing. Finally metal is used as an anti-cultural tool of fighting against the existing order or spirit.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.39
no.1
/
pp.121-132
/
2015
All aspects of clothing, including color, are a visible form of expression that carries invisible value. The purpose of this work is to study the expression of resistance in the white Hanbok in modern culture, specifically after the 1980s. Koreans have traditionally revered white color and enjoyed wearing white clothes. In Korea, white represents simplicity, asceticism, sadness, resistance against corruption, and the pursuit of innocence. This paper looks at: (i) the universal and traditional values of the color white, (ii) the significance of traditional white Korean clothing, (iii) the resistance characteristics of white in traditional Korean clothes, and (iv) the aesthetic values of white Hanbok. The white Hanbok often connotes resistance when it is worn in modern Korea. It is worn in folk plays, worn by shamans as a shamanist costume, worn by protestors for anti-establishment movements, and worn by social activists or progressive politicians. The fact that the white Hanbok has lost its position as an everyday dress in South Korea (instead symbolizing resistance when it is worn) is an unusual phenomenon. It shows that the white Hanbok, as a type of costume, is being used as a strong means of expression, following a change in the value of traditional costumes as it take on an expressive function.
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