• 제목/요약/키워드: Androgynous

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Visual Representation in Glam Style under the Influence of Andy Warhol

  • Kim, Hyun-Soo;Sooyeon Hahn;Yang, Sook-Hi
    • The International Journal of Costume Culture
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    • 제5권1호
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    • pp.1-13
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    • 2002
  • The purpose of this study is to illuminate the relations between Pop Art and pop music, which formed a serious coupling loop in an identical cultural background. Also this study intends to set up a position of visualized sexual identity as it Points out the conceptional characteristics of glam, a subculture outside mainstream, which includes the matters of sexual minorities such as homosexuality and bisexuality under the influence of the aesthetic and philosophical composition by Andy Warhol. In conjunction herewith, we explore the visual representation of glam style focusing on the influence of Warhol. The classification and explanation about the visual representation of glam style under the influence of Warhol are practised by distinguishing as denotative representation and connotative representation. For the denotative representation shown in the glum style, first, the discordant images were put together by bricolage, then adapted into the new dramatic symbol of youth. Second, through a visually androgynous style a subversion of sex for symbols of sexuality and gender was represented. Third, the factitiveness as a weird display and fallacy is shown from boisterous make-up and unisex sかling in theatricality and put-ons, featuring artificiality, assemblage and unnaturality. And the connaotative representation shown in glum inglam style, first, glam style implies its experimental nature which attempts to break down boundaries between masculinity and femininity, homosexuality and heterosex-uality. Second, the bricolage in sequin and other discordant elements have connotative meanings as sensuality and excessiveness. Third, mixing various style as sexual play shows ironic visual images, in accordance with Superior Theory and Discord Theory.

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20세기 서구여성 Hair Style 변천에 관한 연구 (A Study on Western Women's Hair Style in Twenty century)

  • 김희숙
    • 복식
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    • 제22권
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    • pp.313-332
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    • 1994
  • The purpose of this study were as follows : 1) Investigate how to intluence Clothes with time background and trends of art-thought in the twenty century. 2) To understand chronologically how to change hair style Make-up and hair decor-ation. I. 1st and 2nd World War time(1920-1945) The women's social status and their sexual equality was promoted during in this time. 1) African Art Surrealism and Expression art were doninated. 2) The popalar trends were tutular silhoutte (Slim and long) boyish Style and military lookwere popular. 3) The popalar trends of were Eton Crop. short bob gaconne hair style cloche hat. page boy hair style were popular. 4) The trend of make-up which specially. emphasized eye make-up and imitated movie star make-up and make shining redish of lip and nails were popular. II. The stage of modernism(1945-1969) cold war time between communism and capi-talism and promotin of women's human rights were established in this time. 1) Pop art avantgrade art were catched up 2) The popular trends of were new look Kior's line silhoutte mini skirt and young fashion. 3) The popular trend of hair style was french twist. Pill Boxs hat curly bob style were prevalenced and they some what dwarfed hair style. 4) make-up natural make-up was popular. III. The stage of high economic development (1969-1990) Increased population economic development were tend to specialize with anti-social action such as Hippie and Punk groups. 1) Op art Androgynous post-modernism Punk and neo-modernism were catched up. 2) Clothes : classic style of reactionism layered look Punk-fashion avantgrade fashion and pantalon suits were prevalence. 3) Hair Style : Twiggy's short hair style the geometric hair cut natural long hair Spike hair unsex-hair style. 4) Make-up : diversified individuality were prevalence The result of this study indicated that the value's of recognize the importance of total fashion that is the harmonization of clothes hair style and make-up.

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현대 패션에 나타난 프리다 칼로 패션 스타일에 관한 연구 (A Study on Frida Kahlo's Fashion Style in Contemporary Fashion)

  • 오은경;곽태기
    • 복식
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    • 제61권6호
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    • pp.113-130
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    • 2011
  • Post-Modern Multiculturalism is spreading in many ways and other cultural interest has led to the Latin American culture, which has steadily appeared as the main fashion concept of the international collection. Frida Kahlo(1907-1954), a representative of Latin American culture and a Mexican female surrealistic painter, who gives us some inspiration for contemporary fashion design. The purpose of this study is to have a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture and to expand the expression of fashion design. In the process, this article examines the costume of Mexico belong to the Indio culture which had been regarded as the Other for a long time and understands Frida Kahlo's fashion style: Tehuanas costume and her masculine style. The Tehuanas costume is a traditional style of the city, Tehuantepec, located in the southeast of Mexico, which is characterized by colorful floral patterns and a long skirt. Three fashion concepts were derived from her fashion style: tradition & modern, love & farewell, and masculine & feminine. The scope of this study investigates the Haute Couture and the Pret-a-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2010 in Europe, USA and South America. From classifying the collected photos into each concept, three styles such as ethnic, romantic and androgynous style were derived. These fashion styles were analyzed through the formative elements of dress, color, silhouette, pattern, material and clothing construction in order to figure out how costumes of other cultures influenced on contemporary fashion. As a design inspiration, Frida Kahlo extends her influence into innerwear, accessories and hairstyles, as well as women's wear. These inspirations emerge steadily from the past and far into the future as an expression of a fashion design concept.

2000년 이후 패션에 나타난 미래적 이미지의 개념에 관한 연구 (A Study of the Concept of Futuristic Image in Fashion Since 2000)

  • 김윤희
    • 복식
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    • 제58권2호
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    • pp.107-119
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    • 2008
  • This study aims to define the concept of the futuristic image in fashion since 2000. In this study, earlier studies of the futuristic images in the fashion are analyzed and it is discovered that the most important characteristics of the futuristic images are the cosmic space and virtual reality. An analysis of actual data of the futuristic images of the fashion since 2000 produces the following conclusions. First, since 2000 the futuristic fashion to convey the image of space tends to be minimalist, taking H or A silhouette and using white, silver, or other vivid colors. Second, since 2000 the image of virtual reality is often expressed in the fashion of futuristic image as female fighters or vampires of the future who mostly wear pants suit or skirts that expose the body line. Materials of advanced technology or shiny leather are often used and dark colors including black are dominant in these images. Third, when the space image is expressed, the androgynous youth is emphasized. However when female fighters or vampires of the future are shown, sexual image of gloomy atmosphere is often stressed. Fourth, the fashion of futuristic image since 2000 takes up the space age look of the 1960s and the techno-cyber look of the 1980s and the 1990s. However their internal meanings are lost and only external forms are repeated. In sum, the current fashion of futuristic image emulates the past look of the fashion which was circulated as futuristic images and may be considered as a result of combination of futuristic image and retrospective image.

복식에서 성의 가시적 불일치에 관한 사적 연구 -고대에서 근대까지- (A Historical Study on the Visual Inconsistency of Sexual Image in Dress)

  • 이민선;김민자
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제19권2호
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    • pp.340-355
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    • 1995
  • purpose of this study was to trace historically the causes of the visual inconsistency of seXual ilT'age in dress with versatile perspectives. For this purpose, theoretical studies about the concepts of sexuality in dress were precceded. To trace the factors of the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress, historical studies from ancient Egypt to modern ages were done. And then, the factors of the visual inconsist\ulcornerency of sexual image in dress were identified. The synthetic results were as follows; L The visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress shows the phenomena that men introduce the traditional feminine image in dress (ex. X silhouette, skirts), whereas women do the traditional masculine image (ex. Y silhouette, pants), which arouse androgynous image in appearance. And, it also indicates that men or women wear the dress excluded the traditional masculine image as well as the traditional feminine image, which arouse neutral image in appearance. 2. The visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress have been existed historically, from Egypt to modern ages. 3. The visual inconsistency of sexual image III dress was caus~d by various factors as follows; First, ideal beauty of the times which did not distinguish between masculinity and femininity resulted in the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress. Second, as a means of seeking pleasure, the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress was used. Third, as a means of expressing ideology, the visual inconsistency of sexual image in dress was selected. Forth,in religious meaning,the visual inconsistency ofl sexual image in dress was appeared. Fifth,popularization of sports and occupational role made woman adopt the masculine image in dress in view of the aspects of functionalism. Sixth,Undevelopment of taloring contributed to generate androgenous image in dress.

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시티 노마드의 라이프스타일과 패션스타일에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Lifestyle and Fashion Style of City Nomads)

  • 김혜정
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제21권5호
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    • pp.15-29
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    • 2017
  • The purpose of this study is to examine modern people's lifestyle and identify their needs by analyzing clothing behavior through city nomads' attitudes in dairy life, tastes, and methods to pursue in their life. This study tries to understand substitute values as ethical life emerging recently, free life style of mental emotion, clothing behaviors, and fashion style represented by the results. Upon observing city nomads' fashion trend, tunics symbolizing flexibility and comfort and simultaneously reflect colors in a monk style or from basic items that have been used. City nomads' fashion trend also reveals androgynous freeness-and-easiness. City nomads reflect a folksy inspiration, and different cultural perspectives appear in a mixed fashion. Multi-purpose gypsy/boho style is ideal for traveling and occupying smaller spaces in line with the nomadic lifestyle reflectings an American casual image partially by way of gypsy or bohemian nuances. Motorcycle jeans symbolizing functionality for traveling are becoming a part of everyday life. The fashions discussed are categorized as urban, tourer, sports and road. Everyday sportswear - athleisure - is attracting attention enabling a healthy and sound lifestyle. Athleisure is fashion wear harmonizing workplace with leisure, and everyday life and social gatherings. Athleisure represents a significant collapse of the boundary of high fashion and street fashion. Urban- tech wear is light and enables modern people to perform garment and gear functions simultaneously, making storage useful using various technical devices by elevating activity and functionality. Urban outdoor fashion holding functionality and adding modern fashion in appearance has appeared.

한국 신세대의 복식양식 - 1980년대 신문과 잡지를 중심으로 - (A Study on the Fashion Style of the New Generation in Korea -with reference to the newspaper and magazine in 1980's-)

  • 염혜정;조규화
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제16권3호
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    • pp.233-242
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    • 1992
  • This study primarily concentrates on the Fashion Style of the New Generation which has come into being in 1980 with reference to the contents of the newspaper and magazine in 1950's. . The New Generation has undergone the social and cultural change under the effect of mass communication, mass consumption brought by the economic development, sports boom promoted during the period of Asian Games and Seoul Olympic Games and the adoption of the policy for the autonomous school uniform. In the process of the social and cultural change, they have the common peculiarity such as sensitivity, anthoritarianism and polarity and they have taken an important part in the development of the 'Young Fashion' The characteristics of their fashion styles are divided into three periods as follows; 1. The rising period (1980-1982): The most important pecuriality of the first step can be sum up to the following point. The free fashion style replaced the formal one such as T-shirt or casual wear comes into as a everyday dress. Moreover, many people become interested in the New Fashion which is gradually diversified and high-qualified. As a natural consequence, the lively interest of the people has brought into the appearance and competition of the New Brand in fashion industry 2. The growing period (1983-1986): Mannish Look, so-called 'New Fashion' gained the summit of the fashion and change over conservatively. However, 'Mannish Look' have great effect on the Fashion Style until now on. Specially in Korea, 'Punk Style'and 'Androgynous Look' can be an example among many. 3. The diversifying period (1987-1989): The Fashion Style has developed variously even though the Reactionism takes the lead as the main current of the Korean Fashion. Moreover, it is noticeable that man comes into the stage as a new fashion group and the fashion market begins to dear in various lines of goods with moderate and low prices. These various aspects can be regarded as diversification in the Fashion Style as the needs in the times and society.

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Madonna 패션이미지의 기호학적 분석과 신화연구 -2005~2011년 패션이미지 중심으로- (Semiotic Analysis and Myth Studies of Madonna Fashion Images -A View Fashion Image from the Year of 2005 to 2011-)

  • 박영진;임은혁
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제35권10호
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    • pp.1161-1174
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    • 2011
  • An approach method of the semiotics theory is analyzing fashion: the look is that a sign represents one character and the image is interpreted as the destination of the changes. The fashion image interpretation by semiotics is possible because the fashion phenomenon by society has been accumulated in their abbreviation code. It is not possible to produce contradictions of the human imagination coined solution. The myth relieved to people, allowanced a meaning in the world and explained it have been unable to explain and protect us. Today's role of the world myth becomes the star's future. Public resting star's fashion image analysis promote that we understand the inherent desire. Madonna probably is one of the world's most famous women. To Create Madonna's own mythology staged image in various attire reveals symbolism. In this study, Madonna's fashion images, the myth 8 analysis of semiotics represent publicity. Madonna's album jacket 8 analysis of the myth. The fit and the relationship between the star and myths closely is obvious. The Madonna fashion image investigate that so forth implied myth into duality of feminine, upset of gender roles, upset of sexual roles, object of worship. In addition to the creation of these myths are based on sensuality heterosexual fashion images, body-conscious look, lingerie look, Androgynous Look, Dominatrix Look in the fashion style of the images, fashion items made to body suit, bra top, black panties, black boots, long gloves, pink, red, gold, satin, and leather; the addition, there are exaggerated props and accessories. These use such as the human body building wave blond hair. This study through Madonna's fashion image, semiotics analysis is acquainted with suitable means of myth.

빅블러 관점으로 바라본 패션 시장의 변화에 관한 연구 (A Study on Changes in the Fashion Market Viewed from the Perspective of Big Blur)

  • 박연진;간호섭
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제24권4호
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    • pp.144-160
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    • 2020
  • Today, the development of innovative technologies is accompanied by changes in the industrial structure and the Big Blur phenomenon, where the boundaries in various fields are blurred. The purpose of this study was to view the Big Blur phenomenon as a big paradigm shift in the 21st century and derive environmental changes and characteristics of the Korean fashion market. The research method included an analysis of the fashion brands after 2015. Through this study, we intended to establish a framework for understanding the changes in the fashion market from the perspective of Big Blur and discuss the direction of brand marketing. The research results showed the hyperlinks, connectivity, openness, homeostasis, synchronicity, mobility, interactivity, and brand experience of online and offline spaces beyond the boundaries of virtual space and offline physical spaces such as online physical and spatial viewpoints. It also showed the characteristics. The characteristics from the socio-cultural point of view were characteristic of diversity, mixture, coexistence, composability, and pluralism beyond the traditional socio-cultural and regulatory scopes. Hip hop fashion, street fashion, unisex, genderless, androgynous fashion, and kid fashion are the backbone of the Big Blur and are becoming important factors in fashion. The characteristics of the market and economic viewpoint are prosumers that play roles both as producers and consumers. It shows the extensibility of consumers as producers, the cohesiveness of producers and consumers, the cooperation, and the interconnectivity.

병원 종사자의 성 역할 정체감과 성 고정관념이 남자간호사에 대한 편견에 미치는 영향 (The Effects of the Gender Role Identity and Gender Stereotypes on the Prejudice Against Male Nurses of Hospital Workers)

  • 최주희;장철훈;김성수
    • 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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    • 제18권12호
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    • pp.75-91
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    • 2018
  • 여성이 대다수인 간호전문직에 남자간호사가 점차 증가하고 있으나, 그들은 성 고정관념에 따른 사회적 장벽에 부딪히며, 부서배치 등에서 차별을 경험하고 있었다. 본 연구는 병원 종사자들을 대상으로 성 역할 정체감과 성 고정관념이 남자간호사에 대한 편견에 미치는 영향을 확인하기 위하여 시도되었다. 연구 결과 양성성 집단은 성 고정관념과 남자간호사에 대한 편견이 다른 집단에 비해 낮았으며, 병원종사자들은 남자 간호사들이 일반인들에게 낯설고 생소하며, 응급실, 중환자실, 수술실 같은 병원의 특수 부서에서 주로 일할 것이라는 편견을 가지고 있었고, 성 고정관념은 남자간호사에 대한 편견에 양의 상관관계가 있었다. 따라서 의료기관은 남자간호사에 대한 편견을 해소하기 위해 양성 평등적인 조직문화를 구축하기 위한 계획을 수립하여 성 고정관념을 탈피하기 위해 노력하고, 간호조직 내에서 남성과 여성이 동등한 기회를 부여받을 수 있도록 해야 할 것이다.