• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.1-6
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• 2007

In order to improve the light fastness of a natural colorant berberine, several natural antioxidants such as gallic acid, L-ascorbic acid, and ${\alpha}-tocopherol$ were applied by aftertreatment method. Even though the increase in light fastness of berberine colorant was not substantial, L-ascorbic acid was the most effective. It was considered that this improvement of the light fastness was due to high antioxidation action of L-ascorbic acid to colorant, which led very highly excited species of the colorant formed by photo-energy to return to the original stable state without being decomposed.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.268-275
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• 2017

As the substitute of synthetic coloring materials for hair dyeing, we selected some natural ones of three primary colors such as sappan wood, logwood(red), gardenia blue(blue) and amur cork tree(yellow). Mixed colorants and metallic mordanting technique were used to widen the color space of dyed samples. In view of similarity in morphological and chemical structure, wool was adopted as the reference material for human hair to evaluate the color properties of hair dyeing. The color properties of the dyed samples were evaluated by using CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ and Munsell color systems. The addition of an alum or ferrous mordants was effective to expand the color space of hair and to increase the colorfastness to washing and light more than the rating of 1. Displaying the dyed samples by using Munsell color system, better linearity of hue values between the dyed samples of wool and human hair was shown when alum mordant was used.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.45-61
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• 2015

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, amounts of dye uptake, color difference, Hunter's value and Munsell's value. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used Al mordant agent and greenish yellow color by Fe mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by Fe mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by Al pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by Al pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.77-86
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• 2016

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by Munsell's value, and compared the difference of colors which were recognized visually. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used aluminum mordant agent and greenish yellow color by ferric mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by ferric mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by aluminum pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by aluminum pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color. However the color, which was recognized visually, differed from colorimeter sometimes. Therefore, such color table might be necessary for the natural dyeing.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 1998

The objectives of this study were to investigate the effects of mordants and dyeing method : on the dyeability and color fastness of the fabrics with the extract from Gardenia. The following results were drawn from the data obtained. 1. The wavelengths of the strongest absolution bands of Amur cork tree, Gardenia extract was 440nm respectively and the wavelengths 440-460nm after the mordants were added in the color extracts(The bands of Gardenia extract shifts to short wavelength side as pH increased.). In all cases, the abosorbancies were increased. 2. The main color substances in extract from Gardenia were expected to be cretin respectively by spectrophotometric and HPLC studies. 3. As to the concentration of color extract for dyeing, about 20g/L was the optimum concentration to dye silk and cotton fabrics with extract. 4. For silk and cotton fabrics dyeing with Gardenia extract, $SnCl_2$ was the best mordants. The K/S values of dyed fabrics were increased gradually as the concentration of mordants increased, and the highest K/S values were obtained at 5-10%. When using the mordanting methods, silk fabric by premordanting and cotton fabric by synmordanting had a greater effect K/S value. 5. The color fastness of fabrics dyed with Gardenia extract against dry cleaning, washing, rubbing and perpiration was improved 1 level or so but light fastness was remained 1 level showing without any effect.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.12
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• pp.1507-1517
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• 2011

Berberine, palmatine, and Phellodendron bark dye was prepared in methanol for HPLC-DAD-MS analysis of liquid dye. Silk was dyed using berberine, palmatine, and Phellodendron bark dye prepared in water. The dye was extracted from the dyed silk using the HCl/methanol/water (2:1:1 v/v/v) solvent system with a slight modification. The liquid dyes and the dye extracted from the silk samples dyed with the three dye sources were examined using the HPLC-DAD-MS analysis to simultaneously detect berberine and palmatine from the plant dye and the dyeings. Colorimetric measurement was carried out using a spectrophotometer to examine the color and the intensities of berberine, palmatine, and Phellodendron bark dyed silk samples. From the liquid dyes, berberine eluted at 5.21 min with the molecular cation m/z=336 and the UV spectrum confirming that the product was berberine. Palmatine eluted at 5.12 min with the molecular cation m/z=352 and the UV spectrum confirming that the product was palmatine. From the silk dyed with berberine and palmatine dye, berberine and palmatine species eluted at 5.35 min and 5.24 min, respectively. From the silk dyed with Phellodendron bark, berberine and palmatine were detected simultaneously at 5.35 min and 5.26 min, respectively. All three dyes had yellow hue while palmatine dyed silk showed the highest hue and chroma. Palmatine dyed silk showed the highest K/S value that indicated the strongest color intensity and the highest dye uptake.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.66 no.3
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• pp.135-146
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• 2016

This study is examines the replica of the excavated braided belt that tied the Daedae(大帶) of Simui(深衣). This study aims to comprehend the structure and color of the excavated braided belt, and to reproduce the Jodae(braided belt) of Kim Won-taek(1683-1766) clan, which was excavated in Cheongju. Black dye was used on the belt since it was the color that remained the most on the artifact. This study in the color black is focused on the Cheungchosack in Jeonggongji(展功志) from the first volume of 'Yimwongyeongjeji(林圓經濟志)'. From the Kim Won-taek clan, the braided belt of Simui of Kim Won-taek and his son, Kim Shang-jik(1716-1773), have been excavated. The blackness of the braided belt was more apparent in Kim Shang-jik compared to Kim Won-taek, and also Kim Shang-jik's braided belt was darkbrown. So I mixed gallnut, green vitriol, ash tree and catechu, the ingredient of bluish black, in equal proportions. Kim Won-taek's silk thread was dyed 3 times and Kim Sang-jik's silk thread was dyed 5 times to reproduce the original belt. Based on the information from the 'Saryepyenlam(四禮便覽)' that the Jo was weaved with five colored threads, I reproduced the Jo with sophora flowers, gardenia, amur cork tree, safflower, madder and indigo sediment. Yeokeum organization(interlacing), which is a Jodae woven strands of both sets of 15 repeats construction were in the mixed organization of 3/2 and 2/2.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.32 no.3
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• pp.345-352
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to analyze on the textile used for book covers of "Gukgiboksiksoseon" and "Boepboksajeolboksaek", and slipcase of these books kept in the Oryundae Korean Martyrs Museum in Busan. These records are estimated to be written by Gyeongbin Kim(1831-1907), who was a royal concubine of 24th King Heonjong (reign 1834~1849) of the Joseon Dynasty. The cover textile of slipcase and two books are investigated to be silks by the FT-IR. The cover textile of slipcase is flower patterned satin with silver thread and the cover textile of two books are green and red with Su characters and bat patterned satin. The blackish part of pattern of slipcase is investigated by silver thread by FE-SEM-EDAX. Moreover, by the dye analysis, berberine, brazilin, and carthamin are detected from the cover textile of "Boepboksajeolboksaek". It is indicated that it was dyed with an amur cork-tree, a sappanwood, and a safflower. And rutin which is the main dyestuff of the sophora flower of the pagoda tree was detected from the yellow thread of the cover textile of slipcase.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.12
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• pp.2002-2010
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• 2009

The degradation behavior of berberine is examined using GC-MS to select the fingerprint products that can be used to identify berberine dye in badly faded archaeological textiles. A total of $100^{\circ}C$ thermal and $H_2O_2/UV/O_2$ degradation systems were used to degrade berberine chloride 0.1% solution up to 408 hours. The samples were analyzed using the GC-MS. Dihydroberberine, 2-pteridinamine, 6,7-dimethyl-N-[(trimethylsilyl) oxy]-, and 8-methoxy-11-[3-methylbutyl]-11H-indolo[3,2-c]-quinoline, 5-oxide were detected as the major products of thermal degradation and identified as the fingerprint products for berberine dye at the early stage of degradation. Isobenzofuran-1,3-dione,4,5-dimethoxy-, 9H-fluorene,3,6-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-,1,3-dioxolo[4,5-g]isoquinolin-5(6H)-one,7,8-dihydro-, and 3-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyanisole were detected as the major products generated by the $H_2O_2/UV/O_2$ degradation and identified as the fingerprint products for berberine dye under severe degradation conditions.