• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.53-71
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• 2001

The purpose of this study how 'Afro-American resistance' is showed up in the fashion trough the study of rapper's fashion present in singing rap music. Rap music produced by the influence of black music. It have been the tool of expression of pain and sorrow of their lives and included their resistant spirit. So rapper's fashion expressed resistance. at this point I categorized the resistant feature of rapper's fashion at two types in terms of the extent of expression. Their are active resistance fashion and passive resistance fashion. Also each fashion types was classified in terms of style, material, color, accessories and so forth. Active fashion is possible to classify these three styles as follows. The first one is Afrocentic style that was raised from longing for Africa. The second one is Military style which contains an ling-time enduring spirit of resistance against the society. The last one is Hiphop style that violated the typical rule of dressing under the hiphop style culture. these kinds of active resistance are also classified as material like blue Jean showing black workers' resistance, color like black showing off superiority of 'black' and red, gold and green color expressing black people's resistance, and other accessories like chains, cross and so on. Passive resistance fashion has several variations according to the style. There are Jazz style, Uniform style and Hiphop style. It is also categorized as high-tech materials, white color which is the expression of desire for white and luxurious accessories showing off wealth.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.195-204
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• 2012

Since WWII and the Korean War, Korean modern fashion has been americanized by claiming, displacing with, and fusing with the traits of American fashion. The purpose of this study is to observe and analyze the traits of Americanization in Korean fashion, focusing on the designs of Nora Noh fashion from the 1950s to the 1980s. Nora Noh (1928- ), one of the first Korean fashion designers, who launched the first fashion show in 1956, introduced ready-made dresses to Korean fashion industry in 1963 for the first time, and later in the 1970s and the 1980s, exported Korean-made fashions to the U.S. market. For such purpose, this study first provides the theoretical backgrounds of Americanization in Korean fashion history and then conducts a case study by analyzing photographic materials. In case of Nora Noh fashion, the traits of Americanization can be defined as functionality, popularity, and hybrid. (1)Functionality in Americanized Korean fashion was expressed through simplicity, practicality, and usefulness. Noh's "homewear" style and exported silk dresses are the examples of the functionality. (2)Popularity was shown in kitsch images of materialistic and consumer culture. It was expressed in ready-made dresses and trendy styles of mini skrits and bell-bottom pants. (3)Hybrids of various multi-culture exist in American culture and fashion. In Noh's designs, traditional materials and the print patterns inspired from traditional motifs were used to add Korean nuances in Americanized fashion.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.679-690
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to comprehend western style in fashion and to contemplate the hybrid tendency reflected on western style, thereby to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of the hybrid tendency of western style. For such purposes, this study first examines western style historically, in order to analyze hybrid tendency reflected on western style, and conduct a case study by analyzing photographic materials of pr t- -porter collection since 1980s. The result of this study is as follows: the hybrid tendency reflected on western style are modification and fusion of regional culture, adaptation and composition of subcultures, and appropriation of sexual minority culture. (1) Modification and fusion of regional culture is expressed in ethnic items and patterns of embroidery, mixing Mexican and Spanish, American Indian and American cultural references. (2) Adaptation and composition of subcultures emphasize traditional or vintage western style by mixing characteristics of western and other subcultures. (3) Appropriation of sexual minority culture is expressed in rhinestone chaps and fetish corset, glitter rodeo suit, reminiscent of drag or queer cultural references. The result of this study will provide basis which can be utilized in the development and educational background of fashion design.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.728-733
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• 2011

U.S. apparel brands are being imported to Korea more than any other country's apparel brands. Against this backdrop, this study intends to verify the fitness of U.S. apparels for Korean people in terms of size. To this end, the authors selected 25 American and 25 Korean women in their twenties and studied the differences of these two groups with regard to the size of their lower body parts. In addition, the authors analyzed how the size of each part of the lower body changes according to different postures. All the study subjects were required to be able to wear medium-sized pants of the U.S. apparel. The results of the present study are shown below. The American women were bigger than the Korean counterparts in leg length, hip circumference, thigh circumference, and all height-related sizes. However, the Koreans were bigger than their peers in lengths from waist to crotch; crotch length, body rise and the length from front waist point to hip line. Standing posture was used as a yardstick, when the changes in size according to the different postures were examined. The results indicate that hip and knee circumferences increased in the sitting posture. In particular, hip circumference significantly increased in the American women group. Regarding length-related sizes, increases and decreases in sizes for different lower body parts differed according to the posture. For a walking posture with ordinary strides, the front crotch length decreased while the back crotch length increased. This tendency was more notably observed for Korean women. The American woman clearly showed a decrease in outside leg length for all postures. The Korean women obviously presented an increase in the front center leg length for the sitting posture and for the posture where the knees were bent at $120^{\circ}$. The length from the front waist point to the hip line significantly declined in the Korean woman for the sitting posture and for the walking posture with ordinary strides.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.371-377
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to consider 1990s fashion design involving the utility of function which is the essence of modernism. First, documentary studies about the aesthetic value of the utility of function throughout the 20th century sociocultural contexts has been done. Second, content analysis of articles in American "Vogue" from 1990 to 2002 has been accomplished to hold the actual proof for the utility of function in postmodernism fashion. As a result, the utility of function has been defined the utility of body activity, the utility of practical use, and the utility of mechanical product. According to contents analysis, new aspects has been introduced in use of high-tech fabrics, ornaments, and mass customization in 1990s. In conclusion, the utility of function in fashion has been improved in accordance with the change of sociocultural contexts and women's wants.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.60-67
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to examine fashion counterfeit purchasing behavior and purchasing intention among Koreans and Americans. 486 female college students were surveyed for this study. For data analysis, descriptive statistics, 2-test, and t-test were used. As the results, generally Korean consumers had purchased more fashion counterfeits than American consumers. There were significantly differences between two groups on 5 fashoin brand counterfeits. That is, handbag of PRADA or LOUIS VUITTON, shoes of Ferragamo, or Gucci, clothing of DKNY, PRADA, or CK, sunglass of Gucci or Channel, and accessories of Agatha, Cartier, or Tiffany were purchased by Korean consumers much more than by U.S consumers. Also, Koreans had more higher purchasing intentions toward fashion counterfeits than Americans except clothing. Based on these results, fashion marketing would be suggested.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.402-415
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to research the ideologies of African-American hair-styles according to cultural phenomena. This is a qualitative research using the books and theses about society, culture, hair and beauty, and materials of internet. The results are; Firstly, African-Americans are citizens or residents of the United States who have origins in any of the black populations of Africa. About 75 percent of the dark-skinned people on this continent have hair labeled "kinky". Secondly, African hair-styles expressed Supernaturalism and Traditionalism in the formative period of African culture. African-American hair-styles reflected Colonialism in the period of slaves. African-American citizen's hair-styles showed Nationalism after 1960s' Black Pride Movement in the period of settlement in America, and expressed De-territorialism since the boom of 1970s' Reggae. Today, the wearing of dreadlocks, cornrows, and afros has transcended racial and religious barriers. No longer necessarily reflections of ancient traditions and cultural identification, they are just as often fashion items.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.6
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• pp.592-600
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• 2012

Social reactions to body exposure in American leisure wear (bathing suits, shorts, and halters) in the 1930s were analyzed to provide an understanding of the process of adopting more abbreviated and less-occasion specific styles of garments in women's fashion. The research questions were as follow: How did women expose their bodies in leisure wear during the 1930s? How did the social reaction to women's body exposure in leisure wear change throughout the 1930s? How did the body exposure in women's leisure wear play a significant role in the history of women's fashion? Primary sources were collected from issues of The New York Times published in the 1930s. Topics including dress, fashion, ethics, social ethics, and sexual ethics, were reviewed in The New York Times indices. The findings were analyzed and interpreted with reference to secondary sources that included books and research papers. The results showed that the body exposure of the styles as well as the place where these styles were worn was a public issue. Women were criticized and regulated for body exposure as well as for wearing bathing suits, shorts, and halters on the streets. However, the social regulations that restricted bathing suit styles almost disappeared by the end of the decade. This represented the change of social expectations toward body exposure in the 1930s. In addition, reports of laws that forbade the wearing of bathing suits, halters, and shorts outside of beaches, pools, and parks indicated women's increased attempts to expose their bodies in public places. However, reactions to women's body exposure in leisure wear changed to accept more flexibility in the social customs throughout the decade. These phenomena were a partial step toward the popularization of less occasion-specific styles - sportswear - that took place in the 20th century.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 1998

In this study fashion illustrations published in American Vogue from 1960 to 1989 were investigated. Among the large number of illustrations published in American Vogue in this period a considerable number of illustrations was chosen: from 1960 to 1969 143 editorial illustrations and 333 advertisement illustrations; from 1970 to 1979 34 editorial illustrations and 168 advertisement illustrations; from 1980 to 1989 123 editorial illustrations and 81 advertisement illustrations. In studying those illustrations the main point was put in finding characteristics and the changing trend of fashion Illustrations. In the sixties editorial fashion illustrations were published mainly during early sixties. The Illustrations of Rene Bouch, Evelyn Marcil, Dagmar and Eunice Moore Sloane took the space of editorials. Among those Illustrators Bouch published most frequently. The companies such as Galey & Lord, Lord & Taylor, Bergdorf Goodman, Bonwit Teller etc. used fashion illustrations for the advertisement. The name Kenneth Paul Block, Babara Pearlman and Dorothy Hood can be found very frequently on the illustrations for those companies. Antonio Lopez too published in 1963 some advertisement illustrations. In the seventies the total number of editorial fashion illustrations diminished drastically compared to the number in the sixties. Antonio published in 1973 and 74 fifteen illustrations, Joe Eula published from 1976 to 79 thirteen illustrations, and beside them Mats Gustavson published in 1978 six illustrations. The number of advertisement illustrations decreased a little, but many companies used fashion illustrations for the advertisement. The illustrator who worked most actively were Block and Fred Greenhill. In the eighties editorial illustrations experienced a "Renaissance". New high-level illustrators appeared and new fashion illustration magazines were found. Antonio played a central role among illustrators published for editorials in Vogue. In addition to him 15 other illustrators including Mats and Eula with various styles worked for editorials. In contrast to the flourishment of editorial illustrations the number of advertisement illustrations decreased compared to seventies as a result of the domination of fashion photography in this area. Today only few fashion illustrations can be found in fashion magazines. The magazines are dominated by fashion photographs. However fashion illustrations will not totally perish from fashion magazines, because it still has some valuable functions in fashion advertisement. Those functions cannot be fulfilled by photography. Therefore fashion illustration will survive in fashion magazine but playa minor role compared to photography.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.543-553
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• 1998

본 연구는 1960년부터 1975년까지 미국여성복식에 나타났던 인도디자인(Indian design)의 내용을 여러 사회계층으로 나누어 세부적으로 검토, 분석해 보고자 하였다. 지금까지 하위문화 선도이론(subcultural leadership theory)외 하나의 예로서, 미국복식에 나타났던 인도디자인이 반문화적 현상(counterculral phenomenon)으로 청년복식에서 제일 먼저 채택되었으며 점차 사회전반의 복식에, 더 나아가 상류계층복식 (high fashion)으로 확산되었다는 이론을 사회과학 분야에서 주로 사용되어왔던 수량적 연구방법인 내용분석법(content analysis)을 이용하여 실증적으로 분석하였다. 분석된 자료는 총 1043개, 22가지의 종류(subcategory)의 인도 디자인으로. 이러한 결과로 인도의 영향을 받은 디자인이 미국사회 전체의 여성복식에 폭 넓게 나타났으며, 그 절정 시기가 1967년에서 1971년 사이로 이시대의 사회문화의 특징이 복식의 형태에 잘 반영되고 있음이 밝혀졌다. 더불어, 각 인도디자인은 최초 출현시기, 절정시기, 지속기간, 디자인의 기원(origin)의 면에서 복잡하고 다양한 양상을 보이므로, 이 시대에 보여진 인도디자인을 채택하는 복식현상은 각 디자인 별로 (case-by-case), 여러 단기간으로 나누어서, 복합적인 패션전파이론(fashion diffusion theory)을 적용하여 설명하는 것이 바람직하다고 보았다.