• Title/Summary/Keyword: American Indian

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A Study of the Characteristics of Ethnic Fashion by Type (에스닉 패션의 유형별 특성에 관한 연구)

  • Choi, Hae-Joo;Oh, Se-Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.60 no.2
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    • pp.144-158
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    • 2010
  • The concept and the typical characteristics of ethnic fashion were studied. 267 fashion designs from pret-$\grave{a}$-porter collections in Milan and New York from 2001 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed. The major conclusions of the study are as the following: The major types of ethnic fashion are Africa, American Indian, Japan, India, China, and Inca. Among these types, the first volume is Africa, the second is American Indian and others are Japan, India, China and Inca in order. Ethnic fashion changes in years showed reduction from 2001 to 2004, but much rise in 2005 showed more than 30% from 2001. Much more ethnic fashion designs were presented in S/S seasons than in F/W seasons. Africa ethnic fashion designs were more popular in S/S seasons. India ethnic fashion designs were more popular in F/W seasons. In the comparison of the Milan and New York collection, ethnic fashion designs appeared more in Milan collections than in New York from 2001 to 2003. But ethnic fashion designs appeared more in New York collections than in Milan in the year of 2005.

The Countercultural Influence on American Youth Fashion - Indian Styles Appeared in American College Fashion - (미국청년 복식에 나타난 반문화의 영향에 관한 연구 - 미국대학 복식에 나타난 인도스타일을 중심으로-)

  • 김혜경
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.21 no.7
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    • pp.1236-1246
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    • 1997
  • 본 연구는 1960년대 미국의 청년층에 의해 일어난 반문화적인 현상으로 인식되어온 동양문화의 도입, 특히, 인도문화가 청년문화 전반에 끼친 영향과 더 나아가 이러한 환경변화가 미국대학복식에 미친 영향을 알아보고자 하였다. 1960년대 미국청년문화에 나타난 인도 문화의 영향은 철학, 종교 대중음악 등 다방면에서 보여졌으며, 또한 복식의 형태에도 반영되었다. 복식학자들에 의한 단편적인 추론에만 그쳤던 이러한 복식의 현상을 본 연구는 문헌조사에 의한 객관적이고 과학적인 연구방법을 이용하여 입증하고자 시도하였다. Washington, D.C.와 San Francisco/Berkeley 지역에 위치한 7개의 대학교에서 1960년 부터 1975년 사이에 발행한 대학신문에서 연구자료를 수집하여, 체계적인 자료수집 및 분석을 위한 연구방법으로 사회과학분야에서 주로 사용되어 온 Content Analysis Method를 이용하였다. Content Analysis Method는 예비연구(preliminary study)의 결과를 기초로 인도 복식의 영향을 받은 미국대학복식의 형태를 크게 의복(clothes), 장신구(accessories), 직물(fabrics) 등의 3개 category로 분류하여, 다시 13개의 subcategory(kurta, midriff top, Nehru jacket/suit, Indian shirt/blouse/smock/dress, sari, Indian jewelry, Indian sandal, Indian urn, Indian bedspread. Indian embroidery, Indian print, madras, tie-dye)로 세분하였다. 복식의 형태에 의한 분류외에도, 대학신문의 광고나 기사에 실린 내용을 인도복식이 미친 엮향의 정보를 알아보기 위하여 Attribution information을 3 category(originated, attributed, connotated)로 분류하여 조사하였다. 더불어, 같은 문헌에 나타난 인도에서 도입된 4개의 주된 종교(Transcendental Meditation, Hare Krishna, Yoga. Divine Light Mission)의 빈도도 조사하였다. 본 연구의 결과는 13개의 가인도복식스타일(Indian style)의 Frequency(빈도), Attribution, Duration(기간)의 내응을 포함하는 표로 요약되었다. 또한, 연도별로 Indian style이 나타난 빈도의 Duration(기간)의 내용을 포함하는 표로 요약되었다. 또한, 연도별로 Indian style이 나타난 빈도의 합계와 연도를 축으로 하는 막대그래프를 작성하고 이 그래프에 Attribution Category의 내용도 함께 볼 수 있도록 정리하였다. 대학복식에 나타난 인도의 영향은 여성복식과 남성복식에 있어서 서로 유사점과 차이점이 보이는데, 인도의 영향이 여성복식에 있어서 그 빈도가 더 높고, 종류가 더 다양함을 볼 수 있다. 여성복식에 있어서는 12가지의 다양한 인도복식스타일이 나타났으며, 그중 가장 많이 보이는 스타일은 Indian Shirt/Blouse/Smock/ Dress이며, 그 뒤를 이어 Madras, Indian lowery등을 볼 수 있다. 남성복식애 나타난 7가지의 스타일 중에는 Madras가 가장 빈도가 높으며 그외의 스타일들은 그 빈도가 매우 낮음을 볼 수 있다. 인도의 영향의 정도 (Attribution Categories) 있어서는 여성과 남성복식 모두에 있어서 인도에서 직접 수입된(originated) item이 각각 전체의 90%와 81%를 차지하여, 인도복식의 영향은 받았으나 미국내에서 제작된(attributed and connotated) item 보다 휠씬 더 많은 수를 보였다. 인도복식스타일이 가장 많이 보여지는 시기(Peak period)는 여성과 남성복식에 있어 모두 1968년에서 1971년 사이로 공통점을 보였다. 이러한 결과는 미국 청년 문화에 전반적으로 나타났던 반문화적 현상과 동일한 시기로서, 이는 사회 현상이 복식에도 반영되고 있음을 알 수 있다. 또한 같은 시기의 대학신문에 나타난 인도에서 도입된 4 개의 종교 역시 1960년대 후반 부터 그 빈도가 증가하여 1970년에 리고의 빈도가나타낭으로서 앞의 결과를 뒷받침해 주고 있다. 본 연구에서는 Washington,D.C.와 San Francisco/Berkeley 지역의 대학신문만을 연구자료로 사용하였으나 앞으로는 새로운 연구 자료의 발굴과 연구대상을 타 지역으로 확대시키므로서 미국내 전체의 청년복식에 대한 이해를 증가시킬 수 있을 것이다.

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Indian Designs in American Women's Fashion from 1960 to 1975 (미국여성복식에 나타난 인도디자인에 관한 연구, -1960년부터 1976년까지 -)

  • 김혜경
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.22 no.4
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    • pp.543-553
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    • 1998
  • 본 연구는 1960년부터 1975년까지 미국여성복식에 나타났던 인도디자인(Indian design)의 내용을 여러 사회계층으로 나누어 세부적으로 검토, 분석해 보고자 하였다. 지금까지 하위문화 선도이론(subcultural leadership theory)외 하나의 예로서, 미국복식에 나타났던 인도디자인이 반문화적 현상(counterculral phenomenon)으로 청년복식에서 제일 먼저 채택되었으며 점차 사회전반의 복식에, 더 나아가 상류계층복식 (high fashion)으로 확산되었다는 이론을 사회과학 분야에서 주로 사용되어왔던 수량적 연구방법인 내용분석법(content analysis)을 이용하여 실증적으로 분석하였다. 분석된 자료는 총 1043개, 22가지의 종류(subcategory)의 인도 디자인으로. 이러한 결과로 인도의 영향을 받은 디자인이 미국사회 전체의 여성복식에 폭 넓게 나타났으며, 그 절정 시기가 1967년에서 1971년 사이로 이시대의 사회문화의 특징이 복식의 형태에 잘 반영되고 있음이 밝혀졌다. 더불어, 각 인도디자인은 최초 출현시기, 절정시기, 지속기간, 디자인의 기원(origin)의 면에서 복잡하고 다양한 양상을 보이므로, 이 시대에 보여진 인도디자인을 채택하는 복식현상은 각 디자인 별로 (case-by-case), 여러 단기간으로 나누어서, 복합적인 패션전파이론(fashion diffusion theory)을 적용하여 설명하는 것이 바람직하다고 보았다.

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Comparison of Diets of Urban American Indian and Non-Hispanic Whites: Populations with a Disparity for Biliary Tract Cancer Rates

  • Glew, Robert H.;Wold, Rosemary S.;VanderJagt, Dorothy J.
    • Asian Pacific Journal of Cancer Prevention
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    • v.13 no.7
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    • pp.3077-3082
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    • 2012
  • Aim: The incidence of biliary tract cancer (BTC) is many-fold higher for American Indians (AI) relative to non-Hispanic whites (NHW). Neither gallstones nor genetics can account for this difference. There is speculation that certain fatty acids in bile may play a role in preventing BTC. Since diet may influence composition of bile, we compared the dietary intakes of urban AI and NHW adult women in New Mexico. Methods: Design, a cross-sectional study of the diets of lactating AI and NHW women was conducted. Setting, the University of New Mexico Hospital. Participants, healthy lactating women 18 to 39 years of age were recruited. Main outcome measures, a three-day diet record for each participant was analyzed. Results: The AI women consumed less calcium (p = 0.04) and significantly less short and intermediate chain-length fatty acids (C4-C12), but nearly twice as much proinflammatory arachidonic acid as the NHWs (p <0.01). The intake of dairy products by AI women was less than NHW women (p = 0.01) while the intake of processed meat products was higher (p <0.01). Conclusion: Dietary factors may account for the difference in the risk of BTC between AI and NHW women.

High Frequency of Codon 12 but not Codon 13 and 61 K-ras Gene Mutations in Invasive Ductal Carcinoma of Breast in a South Indian Population

  • Sushma, C;Prasad, Shiva;Devi, Rudrama;Murthy, Sudha;Rao, TS;Naidu, CK
    • Asian Pacific Journal of Cancer Prevention
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    • v.16 no.8
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    • pp.3505-3508
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    • 2015
  • Background: Ras genes are thought to play an important role in human cancer since they have been found to be activated frequently in several types of tumors including breast cancer, where the overall incidence of K-RAS oncogene activation is 0-10%. Evaluation of K-RAS gene not only for mutational frequency but also for mutation types in this downstream signaling gene pathway is necessary to determine the mechanisms of action. The present study was conducted to test the hypothesis that K-RAS activation is involved in breast cancer risk of south Indian population. Materials and Methods: A total of 70 paired pathologically confirmed tumor and non-tumor tissues from the same breast cancer patients were analysed for most common K-RAS mutations of codon 12,13 and 61 by polymerase chain reaction followed by restriction digestion and direct nucleotide sequencing method. Results: We found that a high rate of homozygous and heterozygous mutations of codon 12, but not codon 13 and 61, may influence the invasive ductal carcinoma of breast risk in this study. Conclusions: Our study indicated that only codon 12 may be involved in initiating breast carcinogenesis in India.

A Comparative Study on the Manchu Costume Terminologies (만주복식어휘의 비교 연구)

  • 김진구
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.2 no.2
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    • pp.307-316
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    • 1994
  • This study is concerned with a comparative linguistic analysis of the Manchu costume terminologies. The Manchu costume terminologies revealed the elements Hebrew, Norweygian, English, Assyrian, Chinese, American Indian, Sanskrit, Tatar, Turkestan, Greek, Arabic, Indian, Kashmiri. The most influential elements of the Manchu costume terminologies were the Chinese costume terminologies. specifically, the elements of the Chinese costume terms were found in the terminologies of the fabrics, the gems and the precious stones. Also the influence of the Mongolic costume on the Manchu costume terminologies appeared in this study.

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A Critique of British Imperialism in Bapsi Sidhwa's Cracking India: Nation, Religion, and Women (뱁시 시드와의 『인도의 분단』에 나타난 영국 제국주의 비판: 민족, 종교, 여성)

  • Han, Jaehwan
    • English & American cultural studies
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    • v.14 no.2
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    • pp.287-309
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    • 2014
  • The purpose of this paper is to critique British imperialism in Bapsi Sidhwa's Cracking India (1991) by analyzing the partition of India from the perspective of nation, religion, and women. Dubbed "Punjabi-Parsi-Indian-Pakistani," Sidhwa is in a position where she can view the partition from an objective and neutralized stance. Rather than focusing on the lives of nationally well-known political figures such as Gandhi, Nehru, or Jinnah, Sidhwa delves deep into the miserable lives of the lower classes before and after the partition. First, I analyze the process of the partition, as it is performed through the manipulation of British imperialism. By adopting the viewpoint of an 8-year-old Lenny, who is the daughter of a Parsi family, Sidhwa is able to critique both British imperialism as well as the male-dominated Indian society where the treatment of women is unthinkably harsh. Second, I focus on the tragedy of the confrontation of three religions, Hindu, Muslim, and Sikh. Religious people fight each other while they were forced to move from South to North or from North to South. I argue that the religious conflicts have much to do with political issues. Third, I want to argue that women are the major victims of the partition. Ayah, Hamida, and Papoo are victims of male-dominated India during the partition. They symbolize the feminized India, which is exploited and victimized by British Imperialism. Even though Ayah is shattered by Ice-candy-man while working as a prostitute and dancer, she decides to return to her home in India, which shows her challenge against male-dominated India as well as against British colonialism. In conclusion, Sidhwa tries to heal the suffering of the Indian women who fell victim to male-dominated Indian society by criticizing the problems of British imperialism. In addition, by dealing with the lives of silenced people, Sidhwa asks readers not to forget the historical tragedy and not to repeat the tragedy again.

Names and the Journey to Define a Multicultural Identity in Jhumpa Lahiri's The Namesake

  • Ahn, Laura
    • American Studies
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    • v.42 no.1
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    • pp.99-132
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    • 2019
  • Like many other Asian American writers, Jhumpa Lahiri writes stories that capture the experiences of immigrant families in America. What sets The Namesake apart is that Lahiri cleverly uses the names of her characters to shape their individual lives and futures not just as a first or second generation immigrant, but as people who are more than what that labelling connotes. Although the struggle faced by Ashoke and Ashima to hold on and adapt as first generation immigrants is contrasted with the search for identity among second generation immigrants seen primarily through the experiences of their children Gogol and Sonia, Lahiri uses their struggles as an immigrant family to serve as a starting point for each member of the Ganguli family to find their own identities and understandings of who they are as individuals apart from their race, history or cultural heritage so that they may truly be "without borders."

An Analytical Research on Exotic Tastes Reflected in Contemporary Men's Fashion - Focused on Collections from 2001 to 2010 - (현대 남성 패션에 나타난 이국적 취향(Exotic Taste)에 관한 분석 연구 - 2001년부터 2010년까지 발표된 컬렉션 중심으로 -)

  • Shin, Myung-Jin;Nam, Yoon-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.10
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    • pp.104-118
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    • 2011
  • The purpose of this study is to examine the recent various developments of men's fashion by analyzing how exotic tastes were presented in men's modern fashion from 2001 to 2010. For this purpose, a researcher reviewed relevant studies to identify the styles of exotic tastes that were reflected in men's modern fashion specifically in Chinese, Japanese, Indian, East Asian, American, North American and South American styles. Findings of this study is summarized as follows. Main examples of men's modern fashion were found in Chinese-style apparel such as the magwae, queue, coolie hat and the Mao jacket. The Kimono and the samurai robe, both of which best represent Japanese apparel and the Japanese traditional patterns also had an influence on men's modern fashion Indian style clothing such as dhoti, veshti and lungi which cover the lower body, vajani as loose trousers, kurta of full-over tunic form and turban also had an effect as well. The men's modern fashion is also impacted by Middle Asian styles that includes the thobe, sirwaal, futah, which is sort of a skirt that is long enough to cover the calf and whose front parts overlap each other, turbans and the hempen hood which is fixed with the agal. Exotic elements such as animal skins, body painting, tattoos and head dresses found in African styles can also be found in men's modern fashion. Parts of North American style influence come from the applications of Indians' costume and head dress. The surveyed men's modern fashion of the South America style was represented by the applications of natives' costume and Andean tunic, loincloth and shawl. In all of the exotic styles found in men's modern fashion, historicity, eclecticism, aestheticism and nature-orientation are implied. They are the source of inspirations that promote changes and diversity in men's modern fashion.

Studies on the Origin of Punk Hair Style -With Specific Emphases on Cockcomb Hair Style- (펑크헤어스타일의 근원 고찰 -닭 볏 머리형을 중심으로-)

  • Lee, Yon-Hee;Kim, Ju-Ae
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.29 no.2
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    • pp.242-253
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    • 2005
  • The objective of this research is to identify and examine the punk hair styles which, with their various, rather vague names, help to describe the twentieth century subordinate culture or subculture and also their place today as one of the mainstream male hair trends. The scope of this research will stretch to include also: North-east and around that areas native Americans'hair styles which, are thought to have strong links with the Punk hair tend. The focus of this research will remain with the so-called Mohican or Mohawk hair styles(collectively referred to as Punk styles), which have originated mainly from native American warrions residing in North-east and South-east region of the United States. This study clarified a few questions in doubt concerning the origin of cockcomb hairstyle. Firstly, the cockcomb hairstyle known to represent punk hairstyle was influenced the American Indian's Roach style. Secondly, since Roach style is referred as Mohawk tribe's hairstyle in some refernces, the view of seeing cockcomb hairstyle as a Mohawk style is considered more persuasive. Thirdly, although Roach style was a usual hairstyle through North-east and South-east region of the United States, the people in South-east region did Roach hair style because of the North-east's influences. Lastly alike the Punkers had several kinds of cockcomb hairstyle. American Indians'Roach style also differed in shape concerning of their regions and their kindred. In addition, the reason why the most common term to refer punk hairstyle became Mohican is considered as that the film 'Last Mohican' has influenced on it. That film can appeal their history and play a good role of mediator to let the public know better about themselves, 'Mohican' naturally became the name of the specific hair style.