International Journal of Advanced Culture Technology
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제10권3호
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pp.192-201
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2022
The Han Dynasty was the great unification dynasty in history after the Qin Dynasty. Since the Han Dynasty inherited the Qin system, the seal script of the Han Dynasty developed continuously based on inheriting the Qin Small Seal Script. With the progress of social productivity, the Official Script gradually replaced the Seal Script in the Han Dynasty, but the Seal Script did not disappear completely; instead, a special line of development arose under the influence of the Official Script. Through the study of seal script of Han Dynasty inscriptions, this paper understands that the practical function of seal script of inscriptions has been weakening under the influence of clerical script, but the aesthetic value has been increasing day by day. Moreover, there were new artistic innovations in the context of the development of the diversification of inscriptional forms, and its emphasis on social role, cultural status, and the presentation of an aesthetic style that had a profound impact on later generations are worth studying.
The purpose of this study is to investigate the internal and external line beauty of men's dress of the Chosun period from the views of dress design and dress aesthetics. 1) External Line Beauty of Men's Dress of the Chosun Period ① Functional Beauty : Having the beauty of functional line in terms of convenience, action, effectiveness, practivce and sanitation. ② Structural Beauty : Having the beauty harmonizing between lines of internal and external structures. ③ Ornamental Beauty : Having the beauty of simple line by matching accessories (gat, fan, sejodae, shoes) with a simple dress. ④ Wearing Beauty : Making tall-looking or expressing a mature masculine beauty by a visual mistake caused by a combination of internal and external structural beauty lines. 2) Internal Line Beauty of Men's Dress of the Chosun Period Including a simple but natural beauty based on natural philosophy, the beauty of courtesy emphasizing official hat and dress and the beauty of dress having aesthetic consciousness with which people enjoy an idyllic life.
This study considers aesthetic characteristics by examining red carpet dress in China film festival. The research methods were quantitative and qualitative analysis of red carpet dress images collected from 2015 to 2019 on websites according to four criteria following previous research on red carpet dresses. The results of the study are as follows. First, the analysis of red carpet dress silhouettes showed that A-line silhouettes, slim silhouettes, and mermaid silhouettes appeared. Second, in terms of colors, one color, black, represented a higher proportion of the dress colors than the combination of different colors. Third, soft texture occupied the highest proportion of material textures, and combinations of materials with different textures were also used. In the case of patterns, the proportion of dresses without patterns was high, and natural patterns were found in the largest proportion. Beads and sequins accounted for most of the dress details, and the analysis showed that various detail types such as embroidery, slits, ruffles, and belts were used in the red carpet dresses. The aesthetic characteristics of the red carpet dresses worn at the China film festival were analyzed as sensual, elegant, decorative, and simple.
This dissertation intended to investigate the black color as a fashion color of the late 20th century and the aesthetic consciousness of black fashion. Black usually expressed a negative meaning, and was regarded as a color for a mourning and a sacred dress in western culture. There found several periods of black trend specially after 14th century. Black was considered as a traditional color of men's fashion since Dandyism. By the effect of art d co fashion, the perception toward black changed to a new beauty in 20th century. There continuously found a lot of aspects of black fashion in the late 20th century. In the high fashion, popularity of black, could be seen at five different look and style : The era of line alphabet, pantaloons suit style, folklore style, mannish look and unconstructive design by Japanese, and in street fashion, it showed at four different style and fashion: Beat style, mods and rockers style, punk fashion and fetish fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of black fashion at the late 20th century mentioned above should be summarized as follows. : Minimalism, dandyism, nihilism, asceticism, eroticism. In 1990s, the black appeared under the retro mood, and it should be regarded specially as one fashion trend of inclination of simplicity. Black should be called the representative color of 20th century fashion with the reason of containing the most of aesthetic consciousness in modern fashion.
The purpose of this study was to investigate the differences in the method of patternmaking, difficult in draft of patternmaking, fit in sleeve, aesthetic view, fashionableness in the five types of two-piece sleeve under the controled situation. Five types of two piece sleeve that were originated from five countries including domestic companies which called A type, B type, C type, D type, and E type were used. In order to conduct the experiment fur the study, 10 persons who were well organized about the patternmaking drafted 5 types of sleeve and were tested for the differences in the method of patternmaking, difficulty in draft of patternmaking. Another panel were tested for fit in sleeve, aesthetic view, fashionableness in the five types of two-piece sleeve in jacket under the controled situation. The results of this study were as followed 1. C type was needed height of armhole in bodice and D type was needed height of armhole and width of armhole in bodice as well as all parts of sleeve measurements to draft patternmaking. 2. There were significant differences of the items such as cap height, ease amount around sleeve cap, width of sleeve, forwardness of sleeve and the length of elbow line of the five types patternmaking drafted. 3. There were significant differences of difficulty in draft of the five types of patternmaking. C type and E type were easier to draft. 4. There were significant differences in fitness of the sleeves in jacket. C type and E type were more fit. 5. There were significant differences in aesthetic view. A type, B type and E type were more aesthetic under the situation. 6. There were significant differences in fashionableness in jackets. A type and E type were more fashionable under the situation.
The fashion of late Yi dynasty had explored a possibility of new fashional beauty from its own experiences throughout the history of Korean fashion excluding any interference of foreign fashions, and brought out some characteristics ; first, the aesthetical value focused on the more human fashion resulted in the exposure of waist. This aesthetical change in the fashion of late Yi dynasty produced out results as follows ; the length and width of jacket became short and narrow maintaining the basic form, while the width of skirt became increased to be contrasted exceptionally with the upper coat. This mode of fashion reveals the transitional movement from the emphasis on balance to that on unbalance in the late period of Yi dynasty. But regarding the fact that the proportional change by the ways of putting on skirt became to be similar to the golden ratio, we can see many examples throughout the folk paintings by Shin Yun bok, we find that the fashional beauty of that age pursued ideal harmony and unity all the time being in spite of its tendency toward non-refinement. Second, we see another peculiarity in the mode of woman's fashion from the paintings by Shin Yun-bok who always depicted the hu-man nature frankly. For example, the jacket became shorter to emphasize lady's slim waist, and underwears began to be exposed after the upper part of skirt had been to expose lady's waist while the bottom line pulled up highter than before. Thus, as the function of robe had changed from a mere means of covering into an expression of beauty, the fashion of late Yi dynasty began to express a perfectly new beauty possessing an erotic mood and sensu-ality of a woman, which was its inner aesthetic need. Third, this emergence of new fashional beauty made the mental value of man and the aesthetic views of that time quite different from the previous ones, and finally there came various expressions of a new beauty. There-fore, the woman's fashion of late Yi dynasty is noted for the exposure and emphasis on the body line of a woman after the aesthetic view-point had changed of time toward pragmatism and humanism, while upholding the traditions of Korean clothes and pride for the nation. And our ancestors realized very Korean fashional beauty by pursuing the expressional ways of gentle, indirect emphasis upon the feminine and natural beauty to exclude and ar-tificial, direct and straightforward exposures and images.
Drapery costume started with using one fabric to loosely wrap around one's body without using technical skills or needlework. Drapery becomes a beautiful and indeterminate form of pleated costume which determines the costume silhouette and serves as an essential component for the composition of artistic costume. The purpose of this study was to examine the aesthetic characteristics of drapery costume using literature review. The study methods include considerations of the formation process of drapery costume with the analysis of costume in pictures. For modern costume designs, the study analyzed the designer's dress with a focus on drapery forms, which appeared in the collections from 2001 to 2007. First, drapery costume contains the beauty of human body. Drapery costume reveals the smallest movement of the body. The beauty of drapes, which is naturally revealed along the curve of the body, and the pleats which form on the soft cloth create the beauty of body. Second, drapery costume has rhythmical beauty. Drapery pleats feature not only functions, but also unique formativeness that provides rhythmicity and regular or irregular direction effects by line. Third, drapery costume features elegant beauty. Bias cutting by draping can effectively express the elegant characteristics of the fabric. In making a piece of clothing, the composition method can express elegant beauty by covering up the shortcomings of the fitting and by fitting to the body line without cutting the fabric, or fitting it by bias cutting.
It was increased leisure hours by automation and computerization of industry. Many people spend on hours in enjoying leisure sports, and then. nowadays, Many women tend to prefer casual wear to formal suits. The purpose of this research was to design of outdoor-wear that improve the functional and aesthetic effects for clothing comfort. Total 4 design prototype consisting of jumper and slacks were developed for this research. Outdoor-wear design forced on armhole type of jumper and ease of the back crotch length of slacks to improve the functional and aesthetic effects. And Outdoor-wear design focused on color harmony to aesthetic effects. Ease amount and materials of jumper and slacks were controlled. Design A: Jumper was designed as dropped shoulder with set-in steeve and band collar, A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of outside seam line of slacks Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 7% of total crotch length: Design B 4DM cut pattern were applied to the jumper and slacks pattern. A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of inside seam line of thigh. Color of jumper and slacks were grey and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design C : Jumper was designed as the set in sleeve and hood. and A break- away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the ares of the armhole and elbow. Color of jumper and slacks were ivory and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design D : Jumper was designed as raglan sleeve. Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Total six females, ages 20-45, served as subjects for this research. Subjects have standard body type, generally, wearing 66 size of ready-to-wear clothing. The performance of the newly designed outdoor-wear was evaluated for their effectiveness in several aspects such as conditions of skin temperature, sensory evaluation of comfort during body movements, appearance and color harmony and aesthetic collar design. Design 3 was appeared to be the most positive in aesthetic evaluation and functional effects of design 2 of 4DM cut pattern was appeared to be beter than other designs.
This study identified the aesthetic characteristics of the face description in late Joseon Dynasty beauty paintings. A total of 24 beauty paintings were selected as representative of the late Joseon Dynasty genre of painting works. The paintings were analyzed by the shape, color, and physiognomy of beauty trends from the components of women's faces expressed in the works of artists. The results of this study showed that the shape of the face components expressed a round, curved and thin line. Colors were expressed through Obang-sack (a traditional Korean color). Also the physiognomy of the late Joseon Dynasty's women was soft, wise, economical and brilliant. A round-forehead meant that economical and virtuous housekeeper, thin crescent shaped eyebrows denoted women of wisdom and excellent sensitivity. Single long thin eyelids and implied a women of longevity. A round curved nose were eager tobe a wise mother and a good wife. Small concave lips were desired eagerly by gentle and intelligent women. A curve face implied a subjective women of insight and good memory. In conclusion, the late Joseon Dynasty beauty paintings expressed a traditional Korean beauty face and a modern baby face. The data are useful for the aesthetic standards of modern through meaning of Korean traditional beauty.
The purpose of this study is understanding modern woman's various aesthetic values and aesthetic sense through observing expression aspects of gender images in the 1990s military fashion and analyzing their aesthetic characteristics and formative factors. Gender images in military fashion have expressed the masculine image of authoritative image and offensive image and offensive image, and the feminine image of conservative image and ostentatious image, sensual image. The authoritative image showed authority and dignity of military uniform by using the classic military uniform's image. This spoke for desire of women to rise their position. Heroism and androcentrism affected as its formation factor. The offensive image destroyed original dignified image of military uniform by that resistance to authoritative image and existing gender identity appeared as way-out form and deconstructive expression. Anti-establishment spirit, resistance to gender identity, and deconstructionism affected as its formation factor. The conservative image expressed military fashion only with slim and soft silhouette, curved line, color, and simple details by magnifying feminity. Fallen man's authority affected as its formation factor. The ostentatious image expressed military fashion with magnifying accessories such as gold button and belt by women who wanted to display ostentatiously their social position and charm. The aspiration for class of elite affected as its formation factor. The sensual image intended to show erotic voluptuous beauty of woman's body by indirect and direct body exposure. Narcissism, desire to show, and sexual amusement affected as its formation factor.
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