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Design characteristics of Chinese traditional clothing of the Ming-Qing Dynasty era in contemporary women's fashion (현대 여성복에 나타난 중국 명·청 시대 전통복식의 디자인 특성)

  • Zhu, Jiayi;Ha, Seung Yeon
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.23 no.6
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    • pp.955-971
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    • 2015
  • The purpose of this study is to consider the design characteristics of Chinese traditional clothing, especially from the Ming-Qing Dynasty era, and how they have influenced contemporary fashion. Regarding research methods, this study determined the design characteristics, such as the form, color and pattern of Chinese traditional clothing of the Ming-Qing Dynasty era. In addition, 440 photos were collected from the Paris Collection from 2005 to 2014 using www.firstviewkorea.com. The results of this study are as follows. First, the most popular silhouette from Chinese traditional clothing appearing in contemporary fashion was the H-shaped one, and the internal lines appeared in the following order: Chinese collar; narrow sleeve; symmetrical front opening; round collar; wide sleeve; and the C-shaped Biwa front-end. Second, the most popular color was achromatic black, followed by white. The chromatic colors were in the order of blue, yellow, red, green, and purple. Third, the patterns appeared in the following order: Plant patterns, complex patterns, and animal patterns. The peony pattern appeared the most commonly as a plant pattern, followed by the arabesque pattern and the plum blossom pattern which appeared with a similar proportion. Dragon, bird and phoenix patterns appeared the most for animal patterns. It is considered that the results of this study will be helpful for designing products for Korean fashion brands that will advance to the Chinese market. In addition, it will help Chinese designers apply the Chinese-style design characteristics popular among people throughout the world when they advance to the West.

A Study on the Muslim Fashion Style in Contemporary Fashion Collection (패션 컬렉션에 나타난 무슬림 패션 스타일 연구)

  • Choi, Jinyoung;Kim, Jiyoung
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.23 no.5
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    • pp.1-18
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    • 2019
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the Muslim fashion that has recently appeared in the global fashion collection to see how the global fashion brand expresses Muslim's traditional costumes so as to provide references in design development to prepare for the larger Muslim fashion market in the future. In order to analyze Muslim fashion, keywords related to Muslims such as "Muslim," "Islamic fashion" and "hijab" were searched on Google, Samsung Design Net and Vogue websites, and a total of 370 fashion photos were selected for the final data, which was judged to reflect Muslim fashion styles after a review by four clothing experts. Muslim fashion styles have the following characteristics: Above all, the use of veils was most noticeable, with many T-shaped loose long tunic dresses. The hijab, which had the highest proportion of veils, was used to produce various images with wide range of materials and colors. Achromatic colors were the most common, but more than three colors were used to create an exotic image. There have also been cases of using direct religious images such as arabesque patterns and mosques and Muslim priests. As a final, Muslim fashion styles were studied follow: first, a unique style using a veil. Second, conservative style with minimal exposure, third, restrained long-and-lose fit style, fourth, exotic style by elaborate pattern. The domestic fashion industry is also expected to generate economic demand if it is designed with reference to such collection trends along with market research on Muslim consumers.

Comparative Study and Coloring Test for the Technique of Korean and Chinese Gold-painted porcelain (한(韓)·중(中) 화금자기(畵金磁器) 금채기법(金彩技法)에 대한 비교(比較) 조사(調査) 및 가채(加彩) 실험(實驗))

  • Hwang, Hyunsung
    • Conservation Science in Museum
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    • v.8
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    • pp.13-24
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    • 2007
  • The Department of Fine Art requested the conservation science team to examine the technique of painting with gold powder on the gold painted porcelains, which were made in Korea and China, among the items possessed by National Museum of Korea in order to publish it in the research paper collection of the Exchange Exhibition of Korea and China Porcelains. Among the items possessed by National Museum of Korea, such items were included as, an item of Koryo inlaid celadon (No. Gaesung 106), called the celadon with inlaid work (Korean name: Cheongjasanggam suhawonmun geumchaepyunho), which was decorated in the layer of glaze using gold power, an items of tea cup called "Temmku da wan" (No. Bongwan 10011), which was manufactured in the time of Song dynasty of Chinese history, an items of gold cup called "Siyuchohwamun hwageumwan" (No. Bongwan 2027), and an items of a porcelain called "Siyuwan" (No. Duksoo 3322). As the result of the examination, the stabilizing method of baking the decorated porcelains is similar, after they are painted with the pigment mixed with fine gold powder and the glaze solvent, but the treatment method of the colors is a little different among them. In other words, there is a big difference between them, for example, in the case of Koryo celadon, because the gold coloring was painted carefully one by one on the splendid decorations of inlaid works, while in the case of Chinese porcelains, butterflies or arabesque designs are decorated on the layer of the glaze in the porcelains of no decoration, using the stencil skill. According to the result of this examination, the part of the porcelain, whose layer of gold color was peeled off, could be restored, and as the result of the restoration, it was confirmed how beautiful and splendid the gold porcelain had been at the time of being manufactured.

The study on Byunsangwha(Buddha's preaching paint) of 4 volumes of the script of 80 Avatamska Sutra present in Japan (일본(日本)에 현존(現存)하는 4권의 주본화엄경(周本華嚴經)의 변상획(變相畵)에 관한 연구)

  • Kwon, Hi-Kyung
    • Journal of Korean Society of Archives and Records Management
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    • v.4 no.1
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    • pp.67-85
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    • 2004
  • Four volumes of the script of the Avatamska Sutra written with golden paste on dark blue papers manufactured in Koryo Dynasty which are collected or deposited in every museum of Japan show specific features on their cover paintings. In general 3 or 4 lotus flowers are wound by arabesque patterns in zigzag on the cover paintings of Koryo scripts, whereas 10 lotus flowers painted with golden paste on the 4 volumes of these scripts are same in their style. Though there is no prayer sentences in 4 volumes of the script, it is possible to know that they should belong to a set of 80 Avatamska Sutra by the results of above studies. In this study the contents of Byunsangwha of the script of 4 volumes of the Avatamska Sutra were discussed at first and their manufactured era should be postulated by the results of style analysis of cover paintings and Byunsangwha. First thing that saint hair of Buddha was painted with cobalt color is same as that of Byunsangwha of Munsuchoisangsungmusenggebueob prayed in Tejeong 3rd year, king Chungsuk 13th year(AD 1326). Second thing that the beads in topknot of saint hair and lips were painted completely with pink color, and ears, face outline as well as bosom outline disclosed through monk's cloth were also painted with pink color, furthermore the last thing is that Buddha's face was coated with golden paste. All of these things are same as shown in the characteristics of Byunsangwha of the scripts of Kanezawa Daishoji, Matsue Tenrinji and Haga Tera collection in Japan. However, since the cloud pattern style of Byunsangwha of the script is similar to that of the Byunsangwha manufactured in reinstatement era of king Chungsuk, it is possible to say that these 4 volumes of script should be manufactured in the reinstatement era of king Chungsuk.

A Study on the Diffusion of Silla Roof-End Tile (신라기와의 지방확산에 대한 검토)

  • Yang, Jong-Hyun
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.45 no.3
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    • pp.100-113
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    • 2012
  • In the midst of recent active excavation, lots of Silla(新羅) roof-end tiles are unearthed in Yeongnam area(嶺南地域). These are confirmed the same tile frame as the Silla tiles excavated in Gyeongju(慶州). It is represented by the Silla tiles excavated in Ingaksa Temple(麟角寺) excavation research. Roof-end tile with arabesque design(唐草文平瓦當) etc. including roof-end tile with lotus design(蓮花文圓瓦當) are judged to be the tile frame produced by the same frame of roof-end tile that was excavated in Gyeongju, Wolseong(月城) and Hwangyongsa Temple(皇龍寺址). There are three kinds of cases concerning the transportation of tile manufacture ; the roof-end tile manufactured in Gyeongju directly moved to each region, only tile frame moved to site to be manufactured there, and tile manufacturer moved to site to manufacture there. This article considers the case of the roof-end tile manufactured in Gyeongju that was directly moved to each region. In case of the Silla tiles excavated in region especially Ingaksa Temple, the aspects of tiles in accordance with different era show the repeated coexistence, expansion and maintenance. This situation is significant as a clue to understand the supply from Gyeongju not as temporary, but as continuous. On the other hand, if the Gyeongju tiles flowed directly into each region, and if the road was built of gravels and the means of transportation was cart, the damage from movement must never be prevented. On the contrary, transportation through waterway might be advantageous due to the reduction of labor and damage rate and the easiness of loading. Accordingly, it tells us why the ruins where roof-end tiles were excavated located near big and small rivers or streams. Of course there are some ruins located in a fixed distance, but the distance may be enough to endure the impact put on tiles from the overland movement. Therefore, in case of direct inflow form long distance, transportation must be finished by overland movement after waterway movement.

The Precise Three Dimensional Phenomenon Modeling of the Cultural Heritage based on UAS Imagery (UAS 영상기반 문화유산물의 정밀 3차원 현상 모델링)

  • Lee, Yong-Chang;Kang, Joon-Oh
    • Journal of Cadastre & Land InformatiX
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    • v.49 no.1
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    • pp.85-101
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    • 2019
  • Recently, thank to the popularization of light-weight drone through the significant developments in computer technologies as well as the advanced automated procedures in photogrammetry, Unmanned Aircraft Systems have led to a growing interest in industry as a whole. Documentation, maintenance, and restoration projects of large scaled cultural property would required accurate 3D phenomenon modeling and efficient visual inspection methods. The object of this study verify on the accuracies achieved of 3D phenomenon reconstruction as well as on the validity of the preservation, maintenance and restoration of large scaled cultural property by UAS photogrammetry. The test object is cltural heritage(treasure 1324) that is the rock-carved standing Bodhisattva in Soraesan Mountain, Siheung, documented in Goryeo Period(918-1392). This standing Bodhisattva has of particular interests since it's size is largest stone Buddha carved in a rock wall and is wearing a lotus shaped crown that is decorated with arabesque patterns. The positioning accuracy of UAS photogrammetry were compared with non-target total station survey results on the check points after creating 3D phenomenal models in real world coordinates system from photos, and also the quantified informations documented by Culture Heritage Administration were compared with UAS on the bodhisattva image of thin lines. Especially, tests the validity of UAS photogrammetry as a alternative method of visual inspection methods. In particular, we examined the effectiveness of the two techniques as well as the relative fluctuation of rock surface for about 2 years through superposition analysis of 3D points cloud models produced by both UAS image analysis and ground laser scanning techniques. Comparison studies and experimental results prove the accuracy and efficient of UAS photogrammetry in 3D phenomenon modeling, maintenance and restoration for various large-sized Cultural Heritage.

Improvisation and Fantasy: Beauvais Grotesque Tapestry (즉흥과 환상: 보베 제작소의 《그로테스크》 태피스트리)

  • Chung, Eunjin
    • Art History and Visual Culture
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    • no.21
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    • pp.126-147
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    • 2018
  • This paper is to find the theme and meaning of the Beauvais Grotesque tapestry considered a conundrum. The three works are chosen from Beauvais Grotesque consisting of six tapestries, which are The Offering to Pan, The Musician and Dancers, The Camel in the J. Paul Getty Museum. I analyzed these works by dividing them into grotesque ornaments, chinoiserie motifs, and scenography. The Offering to Pan shows the influence of Raphael's Grotesque tapestry, but Beauvais work followed the design of Jean Berain's Grotesque with arabesque. In The Musician and Dancers, chinese ceramics, textiles, and Chinese people in edge were noted. Especially, the Chinese with yellow skin in the border reveals the European gaze on China at that time. In the 18th century, Chinoiserie was prevalent through stage designs rather than books. The Camel, playing Brighella, makes it clear that this tapestry is a stage of Comedia dell'arte. The characteristic of Comedia is a mixture of genres such as music and dance, with no scripting 'improvisation.' Features of Comedia are 'improvisation' without a script and a mixture of genres such as music and dance. Thus, the Grotesque tapestry transfers the stage of the Comedia into threads woven. In addition, the horizontal stage decoration with the disappearance of the perspective vanishing point is related to the era of regent of Philippe d'Orl?ans (1674-1723). Above all, the grotesque, Chinoiserie, and scenography are all fantasies separated from reality. Therefore, the Beauvais Grotesque tapestry represents of 'improvisation' and 'fantasy' in which there is no narrative theme or meaning, as if the script of Comedia did not exist.

Functional Analysis of Classical Music in Film: Focused on (영화 속 클래식 음악의 기능분석:영화 <체실비치에서>를 중심으로)

  • Kang, Unsu;Ahn, Soo Hwan
    • The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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    • v.22 no.3
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    • pp.152-164
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    • 2022
  • This thesis explores the relationship between Dominic Cooke's film (2017) and classical music. To analyze the relationship, researchers applied precedent research to the study. The relationship between the final scene of the movie King's Speech (2010) and the volume and instrumental changes of the Beethoven Symphony is analyzed by David Bashwiner, and Soohwan Ahn analyzed semantic association between the hotel conversation scene in a and Debussy's Arabesque. In addition, the study of application of Schumann's Träumerei to films was used as a methodology to find out how extra-musical information build meaningful sonority. Mozart's K.593, Haydn's Op.77 No.1, and Schubert's D.810 were used in the movie . This study analyzed the functions of Mozart, Haydn, and Schubert's music in . In order to express the relationship between the characters and their inner intentions, this film utilized the relationship between instruments, musical information and non-musical information of the pieces. Through this study, it is analyzed that the information of classical music functions and the core information of the plot of the movie combine together to improve the understanding of narrative.

Conservation Treatment of the Rickshaw in the Daegu Modern History Museum Collection (대구근대역사관 소장 인력거 보존처리)

  • Seo Yeonju;Lee Uicheon;Park Junghae;Lee Yeongju;Kim Soochul
    • Conservation Science in Museum
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    • v.29
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    • pp.33-46
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    • 2023
  • Modern and contemporary cultural assets are defined as a collective term for tangible historical and cultural assets produced in the modern and contemporary period (around the opening of Joseon to the present) in Korea. Among them, rickshaws have been used as a major means of transportation for about 40 years since the opening of the ports in Joseon. The repair process for rickshaws divides the rickshaw into three parts, namely the body, the cover, and the wheels, applying a plaster treatment process by referring to the outcomes of the condition assessment and material analysis for the metal, wood, fiber, and paint used. Overall, the repair process is carried out through dry/wet cleaning, joining, stabilization, reinforcement of damaged parts, and other restoration treatments, which reveal metal decorations and patterns on the scaffolding (flowers, arabesque patterns, etc.) that were previously not observable with the naked eye, while also adding to the stability of the artifact. In addition, props were produced to ensure the artifact's safe exhibition.

New Fast Block-Matching Motion Estimation using Temporal and Spatial Correlation of Motion Vectors (움직임 벡터의 시공간 상관성을 이용한 새로운 고속 블럭 정합 움직임 추정 방식)

  • 남재열;서재수;곽진석;이명호;송근원
    • Journal of Broadcast Engineering
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    • v.5 no.2
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    • pp.247-259
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    • 2000
  • This paper introduces a new technique that reduces the search times and Improves the accuracy of motion estimation using high temporal and spatial correlation of motion vector. Instead of using the fixed first search Point of previously proposed search algorithms, the proposed method finds more accurate first search point as to compensating searching area using high temporal and spatial correlation of motion vector. Therefore, the main idea of proposed method is to find first search point to improve the performance of motion estimation and reduce the search times. The proposed method utilizes the direction of the same coordinate block of the previous frame compared with a block of the current frame to use temporal correlation and the direction of the adjacent blocks of the current frame to use spatial correlation. Based on these directions, we compute the first search point. We search the motion vector in the middle of computed first search point with two fixed search patterns. Using that idea, an efficient adaptive predicted direction search algorithm (APDSA) for block matching motion estimation is proposed. In the experimental results show that the PSNR values are improved up to the 3.6dB as depend on the Image sequences and advanced about 1.7dB on an average. The results of the comparison show that the performance of the proposed APDSA algorithm is better than those of other fast search algorithms whether the image sequence contains fast or slow motion, and is similar to the performance of the FS (Full Search) algorithm. Simulation results also show that the performance of the APDSA scheme gives better subjective picture quality than the other fast search algorithms and is closer to that of the FS algorithm.

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