• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.344-352
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• 2017

This study investigated the formability and appearance performance of 20 women's worsted fabrics. For this purpose, 10 foreign fabrics (9 Italian + 1 Japan fabrics) were prepared and 10 domestic worsted fabrics for women were made in Cheil woolen textile company for comparing with foreign fabrics. The mechanical properties of the 20 fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems; subsequently, fabric formability (F) and total appearance value (TAV) were calculated and compared with a virtual 3-D simulation silhouette by i-designer CAD system. The fabric formability of the domestic fabrics, calculated by KES-FB system, was lower than foreign fabrics, which was assumed to be caused by the stiff tactile property. The result was similar to that of the FAST system. Good wearing performance of the foreign worsted fabric was assumed to be caused by high extensibility and the compressibility of the fabrics. The TAV's of the domestic fabrics were also lower than foreign fabrics. Both the correlation between TAV and formability by the KESFB system and the correlation between TAV and formability by FAST system showed a good correlation coefficient. Fabric formability between KES-FB and FAST systems also showed a good correlation. The 3-D simulation silhouette of the foreign fabric by i-designer CAD system appeared superior to the domestic one, and assumed to be attributed to the low extensibility of the weft direction, stiff bending and high shear properties of the fabric.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제25권3호
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• pp.144-158
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to develop a bodice block suitable for women in their 20s with turtle neck syndrome. The problem of turtle neck syndrome body type was derived through the evaluation of bodice blocks. First, the length of the front bodice was longer and the length of the back bodice was shorter. Second, the front neck point, back neck point, and the shoulder line were not in place. Third, the side neck was pushed up. Fourth, the length of armhole was long and it floated. Fifth, the front hem was attached to the body and the back hem was away from the body. A finally developed pattern was designed by developing four test patterns to solve the problem that appeared in a selected bodice pattern, and a t-test was conducted to determine the difference in the appearance evaluation by virtual clothing between the two patterns, bodice block and the development pattern. According to the result, the fit was not good from the side body because the position of the side neck point was not in a place due to the characteristics of the body shape of turtle neck syndrome, but the problems of the anterior neck position, the position of the back neck point, the shoulder line position, and the armhole shape were improved in the developed pattern.