• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.153-167
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• 2015

This paper proposes knit slacks patterns by lower body shape of middle-aged women. In addition, this paper aims to propose a design method for a prototype of nice knit slacks using the properties of knitwear. To select basic woven slack patterns which would be used in designing prototype of knit slacks for middle-aged women, two industrial slack patterns and two educational slack patterns were collected, and lab coats were prefabricated using muslin. Then, a shape test was performed by an evaluation board which consisted of eight experts who majored in Clothing Construction. Using blended yarn (1/17's) with 64% wool, 23% rayon and 13% nylon, 12G knit slacks in plain stitch were made. In terms of waist circumference of knit slacks, the front and the back were set to W/4+1+2(D) and W/4-1+2(D), respectively, with 1cm of difference using waist circumference (Omphalion) to cover the abdominal circumference. To make the front-back width of the side line even, the front waist circumference was increased by 1cm. The ease of hip circumference was set to 4cm in total with H/4+1+0.8 in front and H/4+1-0.8 in the back (0.8cm in difference). Crotch length was set by adding 3cm (width of waist belt) after deducting crotch height from waist height (Omphalion). The center front angle was shifted by 1cm while the center back angle was shifted from the center front to the side line by 5cm.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.181-196
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• 2016

This study intended to suggest criteria for selection of subjects by lower body shape types necessary for evaluating slacks. For this, the characteristics were examined by lower body parts which would influence the fit of slacks on 3D human body shape data of the front and sides of the lower body for lower body shaping. The frequency of subjects by lower body shape types and the boundary points for discrimination of each type were suggested so that they could be available in selecting subjects. Using the data from Size Korea(2004), indirect measurement values measured on the front and sides of the lower body among 3D human body shape data of 175 subjects were analyzed. Their height, waist, and hip circumference fell under the range of standard deviation based on the mean of women aged 18~24 years, and then lower body shaping was conducted by combining the front and side shapes of the lower body. The front of the lower body was classified into four sections: average waist/average hip type(F1), average waist/narrow hip tyle(F2), narrow waist/narrow hip type(F3) and narrow waist/wide hip type(F4) and the sides of the lower body were divided into four sections: average abdomen/average hip type(S1), flat abdomen/average hip type(S2), average abdomen/protrude hip type(S3)and round abdomen/flat hip type(S4), and thus total 16 lower body types were created by cross analysis. Besides, discriminant analysis suggested the boundary points for each shape type of the front and sides of the lower body as a criterion for deciding lower body shape type of each subject

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.283-292
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to analyze and compare the color characteristics of preferred summer clothing textiles, such as shirts, blouse, slacks and skirt. 109 male and female college students evaluated the preference to clothing textiles in previous research and top 10 kinds of textiles were chosen for each clothing item. To analyze the color characteristics of preferred textiles, spectral data were measured with spectrophotometer. By the results, color and color tone, value of L, a, b according to clothing item and season were compared. Chromaticity diagram was drawn, too. The results of this study are as following: 1. Color characteristics of shirts textile college student preferred for summer was PB color and p tone. The textile, in general, represented simple color that is close to achromatic color with light and soft shade. 2. The most preferred color of blouse textiles was G color and It, d tone. The color characteristics of blouse textiles represented stronger and more brilliant than those of shirts. 3. For slacks, colors of preferred summer textiles were mostly B, YR color and p, It.g, dk tone. Therefore, preferred textiles for slacks represented simple bluish or brownish color that is close to achromatic color with light or dark shade. 4. The most preferred color of skirt textiles were Y, R color and It tone. Skirt textiles had various colors compared to slacks. 5. College students generally prefer simple cold color that is close to achromatic color, because shirts and slacks have high frequency of wearing. In color tone, light and soft tone were preferred for shirts, and for slacks, they preferred light or dark tone. Comparatively, blouse and skirt which have low frequency of wearing represented various colors which contain more brilliant and stronger toned warm colors. 6. By the result of analyzing L, a, b value, shirts and blouse textiles showed higher L value than those of slacks and skirt. The textiles preferred by college students were generally close to achromatic color, because values of a, b were very low. This was confirmed with the result of chromaticity diagram. 7. In pattern of preferred textiles, solid textile were preferred mostly for shirt, blouse, skirt and slacks, and stripe pattern was preferred secondly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.29-39
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• 2002

It was increased leisure hours by automation and computerization of industry. Many people spend on hours in enjoying leisure sports, and then. nowadays, Many women tend to prefer casual wear to formal suits. The purpose of this research was to design of outdoor-wear that improve the functional and aesthetic effects for clothing comfort. Total 4 design prototype consisting of jumper and slacks were developed for this research. Outdoor-wear design forced on armhole type of jumper and ease of the back crotch length of slacks to improve the functional and aesthetic effects. And Outdoor-wear design focused on color harmony to aesthetic effects. Ease amount and materials of jumper and slacks were controlled. Design A: Jumper was designed as dropped shoulder with set-in steeve and band collar, A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of outside seam line of slacks Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 7% of total crotch length: Design B 4DM cut pattern were applied to the jumper and slacks pattern. A break-away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the area of back of jumper and the area of inside seam line of thigh. Color of jumper and slacks were grey and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design C : Jumper was designed as the set in sleeve and hood. and A break- away zipper to facilitate ventilation control were made the ares of the armhole and elbow. Color of jumper and slacks were ivory and orange color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Design D : Jumper was designed as raglan sleeve. Color of jumper and slacks were olive green color. Ease amount of the crotch length of slacks pattern was constructed as 5% of total crotch length. Total six females, ages 20-45, served as subjects for this research. Subjects have standard body type, generally, wearing 66 size of ready-to-wear clothing. The performance of the newly designed outdoor-wear was evaluated for their effectiveness in several aspects such as conditions of skin temperature, sensory evaluation of comfort during body movements, appearance and color harmony and aesthetic collar design. Design 3 was appeared to be the most positive in aesthetic evaluation and functional effects of design 2 of 4DM cut pattern was appeared to be beter than other designs.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.695-707
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• 2016

This study presents quantitative evaluation standards for the shape fitness test, conducted in the process of the slacks fit test. This study aims to quantify appearance sensory test of slacks for the objectification of qualitative evaluation methods in existing shape fitness tests. The subjects were women of standard body type between the ages of 18 and 24. Slacks differing in their ease in waist girth, hip girth, crotch length and knee length were designed to test their shape fitness. The gap volume distribution between the body and slack, angle of the baseline by body part, and ratio of total thickness from the sideline using 3D human body scan data (which reflect the results of the appearance sensory test) were presented as quantitative evaluation standards. There were less wrinkles in the wrinkle/overstretch and ease categories of the appearance sensory test; in addition, ease was adequate and small enough to comfortably perform basic human activities in the standing upright posture. The gap volume distribution analysis between body and slacks showed that curves increased in the slacks surface along with an increase of ease in slacks and suggested that wrinkles also increased. In the baseline's horizontal categories in terms of a $0^{\circ}$ horizontal angle, the range of angles were evaluated as adequate by the clothing expert group. The total thickness ratio of 0.5:0.5 divides into the sideline from the baseline.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.10
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• pp.47-55
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze and compare the color characteristics of preferred clothing textiles of college students. One hundred nine male and female college students were evaluated for their preference to clothing textiles in previous research. To analyze the color characteristics, spectral data were measured. Color, color tone, and values of $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$ according to clothing item were compared. In addition, chromaticity diagram was drawn. The results of this study were as following. 1. The color of the shirts textile that college student preferred most in spring/fall was PB(purple blue) color, lt(light) tone. In general, the preferred textiles for shirts represented a simple color that is close to achromatic color with light and soft shade. The color of the blouse textiles that college student preferred most was PB color, d(dull), g(grayish) and W(white) tone. 2. The most frequently shown color of upper garment was PB, followed by Y(yellow) for shirt and R(red) for blouses. College students prefer a simple color which is close to achromatic color, and a light and soft color was preferred for shirts fabric and they preferred various, medium shades, but closer to pure colors for blouses because college students tend to consider that the aesthetic side is important and usually wear blouses less often than shirts. 3. For slacks, the colors of the preferred textiles were B(blue), PB color and lt.g.(light grayish), g, d and bk(black) tone. Therefore, the preferred textiles for slacks represented simple colors such as bluish or close to achromatic color with light or dark shade. For skirt, YR(yellow red), PB color and lt.g, lt, d. tone were preferred. Therefore, soft light or moderately toned various colors that are close to pure color were especially preferred for skirts. 4. The colors of preferred fabrics for slacks and skirts differed. The colors of the preferred fabrics for slacks were mostly cold color, whereas those of skirts were mostly warm color. And college students preferred various, medium shaded and closer to pure colors for skirts because they tend to consider the aesthetic side as being important. 5. The pattern of preferred fabrics was mostly solid, regardless of clothing item, and melange was the second most preferred pattern. 6. Through the analysis of $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$ values, shirt and blouse textiles showed higher $L^*$ value than that of slacks and skirt. The preferred textiles of college students were generally close to achromatic color because the values of $a^*$, and $b^*$ were very low, as confirmed by the result of the chromaticity diagram.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.793-805
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• 2023

This study analyzes the body shapes of lower-body obese female adolescents and proposes a slacks pattern suitable for their body type. Lower-body obesity is a prevalent type of teenage obesity, and our proposals aim to improve consumer satisfaction in ready-to-wear clothes across this demographic. We first observe characteristics of obese lower bodies, noting significantly above-average thigh and hip circumference. These figures indicate a high degree of curvature in obese lower bodies, along with a large drop value. Leveraging this data, we develop a novel slacks pattern using 3D avatars in a virtual simulation system. The formulas for the main areas of the pattern are as follows: front waist girth W/4+0.75cm+0.5cm, back waist girth W/4+0.5cm-0.5cm, front hip girth H/4+1.25cm-0.5cm, back hip girth H/4+2cm+0.5cm, front crotch extension H/16+0.5cm, back crotch extension H/8+1cm. Results from appearance evaluations show that this pattern minimizes strain rate on the waist and hips, and its average score is significantly higher than that of an alternative pattern that was also evaluated. The minimized strain rate and high average score indicate that our pattern assigns a sufficient amount of space to the appropriate areas. Based on these results, we expect our research to inform slacks pattern development and production for obese consumers of all types.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.826-835
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to compare the similarity between actual and virtual pants using a virtual 3D CLO program. A subject corresponding to the average size of a women in her twenties was selected and an avatar with the same specifications was produced. Silhouettes of the pants were classified into trousers, slacks, and wide pants and images of actual and virtual pants were evaluated from the front, side, and back. The results were as follows: Overall, the resemblance of the trousers was evaluated higher than that of other pants. The average similarity of trousers was 4.20 at the front, 3.98 at the side, and 4.17 at the back, which was much like the actual clothing. In contrast, that of the slacks was 3.62, 3.73, and 3.79 and of the wide pants was 3.81, 3.53, and 3.97. The similarity between the actual and virtual clothing was relatively well reproduced when the shape of the pants was like the silhouette of the human body. However, if the pants were tight or loose, virtual fits failed to display the wrinkles caused by the tightness or the excessive slack. The virtual fit showed fewer wrinkles and did not depict the location and the shape of hemlines as accurately as the actual fit, although virtual fits adequately displayed the baseline and dart on the pants.

• The Journal of Asian Finance, Economics and Business
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.141-149
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• 2019

The paper proposes a knowledge innovation performance model by the dynamic data envelopment analysis with slacks-based measure approach for evaluating the effectiveness of 30 regional knowledge innovation activities in China from 2010 to 2016. In recent years, China has paid more attention to knowledge innovation activities, as central and local governments have pushed on with their innovation projects by lots of investment whatever the difficulties may be. Decision-maker is usually interested in judge its knowledge innovation performance relative to target benchmark by exploring whether one provincial administration region performs better among others and/or if the growth of economy will be benefited greatly by the knowledge innovation activities. To acquire the managerial insight about this issue from a comprehensively designed performance evaluation model, knowledge innovation activity is conceptualized as an intertemporal production process. Invention patent and regional gross product are imposed on desirable outputs, highlighting the need for knowledge economy. The empirical result shows that knowledge innovation has a positive effect on economic development. At the same time, decision-maker should be interest in the economic effect of patents' type and quality. The government should then encourage new technical applications with greater commercial value from a market-oriented perspective, in order to benefit the most from the innovation process in the short-run.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.97-113
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• 2016

This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women's pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.