• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.70-90
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• 2023

This study aims to use Art brut works-the artwork of the socially underprivileged and alienated-to influence social roles in fashion design, employing a formative expression method to promote social acceptance of diversity in the industry. The research method involved investigating Art brut's concept and evolution in domestic and foreign literature and previous studies. The formative characteristics of the movement were derived by analyzing the works of Art brut artist Johann Hauser. One hundred and twenty images of Johann's work were collected through online sources like the Gugging Museum's website, Christian Berst Gallery's website were developed as fashion design using the CLO 3D program. The formative characteristics of Johann's works appeared to be transparent overlapping, divisional decorativeness emphasized simplicity, and vibrant chromaticity. Based on this analysis, the results of the 3D digital fashion designs were as follows. First, the characteristics of the atypical objects and figures in Johann's works were applied to the design silhouette, revealing a uniquely beautiful form. Second, Johann used a method in which numerous line shapes overlap and fill the area. The point of connecting the work is expressed as a graphic pattern by decorating the lines of the hem and hem of the garment with piping or attaching overlapping straps on top of pants and dresses. Third, the combination of overlapping colors used in Johann's work is a color block design of fashion, which utilizes the formative fun.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.7 s.155
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• pp.1034-1043
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to investigate the difference of the visual evaluation about gathered skirts according to different gathering conditions and objects. The experiment is made of factorial design for three variables-fabric(cotton, wool, polyester), ratio of gathers(1.5T, 2.0T, 2.5T), objects(real thing, 2D digital picture, 3D shape). Questionnaire consists of 33 sematic differential scale expressing gathered skirts' image. The subjects were 50 male and female students majoring in clothing and textile. The data were analyzed by Frequency, Factor analysis, Anova, scheffe's test. The results obtained were summarized as follows; 1. As the open-ended response there were difference among the image according to different gathering conditions and obects. 2. The image of gathered skirts was composed of 6 factors; activities, attraction, attention, softness, moderateness, function. 3. For visual evaluation of gathering conditions as different objects, there were similar as softly in fabrics and lager in ratio of gathers. 4. For visual evaluation of different objects as gathering conditions, there was more difference effect of ratio of gathers than fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.5
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• pp.825-839
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• 2017

Generative Art (also called as the art of the algorithm) creates unexpected results, moving autonomously according to rules or algorithms. The evolution of digital media in art, which tries to seek novelty, increases the possibility of new artistic fields; subsequently, this study establishes the basis for new design approaches by analyzing visual cases of Generative Art that have emerged since the 20th century and characteristics expressed on fashion. For the methodology, the study analyzes fashion designs that have emerged since 2000, based on theoretical research that includes literature and research papers relating to Generative Art. According to the study, expression characteristics shown in fashion, based on visual properties of Generative Art, are as follows. First, abstract randomness is expressed with unexpected coincidental forms using movements of a creator and properties of materials as variables in accordance to rules or algorithms. Second, endlessly repeated pattern imitation expresses an emergent shape by endless repetition created by a modular system using rules or 3D printing using a computer algorithm. Third, the systematic variability expresses constantly changing images with a combination of system and digital media by a wearing method. It is expected that design by algorithm becomes a significant method in producing other creative ideas and expressions in modern fashion.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.47-65
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• 2017

This study is intended to compare an actual wedding dress being made completely through 3D software, and compare it with an actual dress of a real model by using collective tools for comparative analysis. The method of the study was conducted via a literature review along with the production of the dresses. In the production, two wedding dresses for the small wedding ceremony were designed. Each of the design was made into both 3D and an actual garment. The results are as follows. First, the 3D whole body scanner reflects the measure of the exact human body size, however there were some difficulties in matching what the customer wanted, because the difference of the skin color and the hair style. Second, the pattern of the dress is much more easily altered than it was in the real production. Third, the silhouette of the virtual and the actual person with the dress was nearly the same. Fourth, textile tool was much more convenient because of the use of real-time rendering on the virtual dresses. Lastly, the lace and biz decoration were flat, and the luster was duller than in reality. Prospectively, the consumer will decide their own design of variety through the use of the avatar without wearing the actual dresses, and they would demand what the another one desired, different from the presented ones by making the corrections by themselves. Through this process, the consumer would be actively participating in the design, a step which would finally lead to the two way designing rather than the one way design of present times.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.98-114
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• 2016

This research study was performed to compare between Korean traditional color and digital transfer textile printing. This would help to find the new direction to apply Korean traditional colors to modern textile industry. The objective of this study is to digitalize Korean traditional colors to be applied to modern textiles, based on research studies by previous researchers, on the actualization of Korean traditional colors for textiles. The study focused on 21 red colors among others. Digital color palette of graphic program was printed on 6 different polyester textiles by using digital transfer textile printing. Different things to be supplemented were found by comparing the results with the colors of Korean traditional standard color names. After measuring the colors, Munsell color system and CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ value were measured then comparative study was performed on the measured values using 3D graphs. Measured colors of Munsell varied by color but in overall, chroma became low while brightness became high. Color characteristic of warm colors got weakened by turning into cold colors as brightness got high but yellow and red got low due to the characteristics of CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ value. This study has limitations with color analysis of digital transfer textile printing due to standardization of textiles and standardization of traditional colors however it can support to actualize the colors for the design using traditional color names by visualizing the color change of digital transfer textile printing in the future.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.3 s.88
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• pp.49-58
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of covering yarn's twist on mechanical properties of knitted fabrics of composite yarns with single covering process. Four yarns that were used in this study: two different composite yarns made from the four kinds of cotton and functional polyester-(Poly-A) with the ratio of 52:48, and the rest two yarns are the original cotton 100% yarn and the poly-A 100% yarn. The two kinds of composite yarns, CP1 and CP2, were processed on the single covering process. CP1 was applied on the single covering process with S-800 tpm, where Poly-A was used as covering yarn and cotton was used as core yarn. CP2 was applied on the same process as CP1 except that Poly-A had been applied on the two-for-one twisting process with S-400 tpm on the previous step. Sixteen mechanical properties of all the four knifed fabrics knitted under the same knitting conditions were measured by KES-FB system with the outer knit condition. And 3D CAD dressmaking simulations, which were driven by some of the mechanical properties, were presented. The results were as follows: CP2 had high RT values with twisting of covering yarn. CP2 also had high B, 2HB values because of higher linear density. SMD was affected rather by twisting of covering yarn than by fine hair of the cotton surface. Twisting of covering yarn made it decreasing T value and increasing W value. Dressmaking 3D CAD simulations showed that there are buckling effects on CP2 because of high bending rigidity and shear rigidity.

• Journal of Korea Multimedia Society
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.708-719
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• 2013

Purchase of clothes has recently picked up pace at mobile fashion shopping malls. One of the biggest weak points is that consumers can't coordinate clothes. Since individuals increasingly want to make coordination, a fashion coordination system to satisfy the demand should be developed. As the technology of digital clothing which is about reproducing dresses using computer graphic has been activated in the fashion industry, many changes in consumers' life patterns and interests in fashion shopping malls are taking place. Some consumers are increasingly more keenly interested in shopping on the Internet and Smart phones than in offline stores. This study was conducted to understand production of iPhone-based augmented reality fashion fitting contents which is suitable for Koreans' body shape. This system is about designing and materializing UI(User Interface), an augmented reality fitting system, so that users can confirm if they look nice with those fashion items using Smart phones. A new fashion shopping method satisfying user convenience was suggested using the materialized system.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.104-111
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• 2019

This study was developed using the DTP (digital textile printing) jacquard fabrics with a three-dimensional pattern for bag and evaluated the preference and emotional structure. The following conclusions were obtained. Three-dimensional patterns of 12 species using the illustrator program, including six kinds of designs based on the text and six kinds of character types based on the geometry of the basic design was developed. As a result of evaluating the preference of the three-dimensional pattern jacquard fabric, the most preferred fabric was a three-dimensional patterned jacquard fabric with a motif of the Korean consonant "ㅅ". The results of analyzing the emotional dimension of the three-dimensional pattern jacquard fabric, eight factors including simple image, feminine image, exotic image, graphic image, sporty image, masculine image, dynamic image and stereoscopic image were derived. Between emotional factors and preferences correlation analysis showed the stronger the simple image, the feminine image, and the sporty image, the more preferable. It suggested the possibility of a morphological and new fabric for bag, textile design motifs by using Hangul consonants attempt to limit the flatness of the existing geometric form patterns that can be applied to three-dimensional bag whether swirly patterns overcome.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.282-291
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• 2010

Digital textile printing(DTP) is becoming more important because the production trend of textile printing goods is adapting to small-lot multiple items. Recently enhanced use of DTP is closely connected with production of high value-added products in fashion industry, which is also appropriate for quick response system(QRS). Quality of DTP depends on pre-treatment, after-treatment, ink, media, printer, etc. One of these parameters, Selection of good media is very important to obtain high quality of DTP products. Especially, the effects of media on printing quality of DTP according to yarn twist and structure of knitting fabric were examined in this study. Two types of yarn twist of 830 t.p.m and 1630 t.p.m for cotton knit were used and five types of media structures were knitted with single circular knitting machine. First, MIU, MMD, SMD's values are closely related with surface roughness of sample as well as printing quality. The hard twist samples were higher values than normal twist samples in the same media structure. In case of SMD, the values increased from plain to corduroy types. Second, aspect of line sharpness, line area, and line width values of hard twist samples decreased from plain to corduroy than those of normal twist samples. Third, line deviation values of hard twist samples, blurriness of line, also decreased than those of normal twist samples.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.12 no.12
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• pp.169-176
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• 2021

This study aims to explore the formativeness of 3D printed parametric fashion products while parametric design-based 3D printed fashion products are increasing. As a research method, theoretical review was conducted and formative properties of 3D printing parametric fashion products were derived, and cases of 3D printing parametric fashion products were collected and examined into three types of clothing, shoes, and accessories. As a result of the study, it was possible to confirm the shape with the motif of a natural object, and structurally, the economical optimal structure, assembly structure, and natural structure were confirmed. was found to use natural and achromatic colors. Through the understanding of the formativeness of 3D printing parametric fashion products presented in this study, it is expected that it will be used as basic data to understand the spread and formative flow of parametric-based fashion products.