• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.418-424
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to propose a standard of converting 3D shape of men in twenties to 2D patterns. This can be a basis for scientific and automatic pattern making for high quality custom clothes. Firstly, representative 3D body shape of men was modeled. Then the 3D model was divided into 3 shells, front, side and back. Among them, the front shell was divided into 4 blocks by bust line and princess line. Secondly, curves are generated on each block according to matrix combination by grid method. Then triangles were developed into 2D pieces by reflecting the 3D curve length. The grid was arranged to maintain outer curve length. Next, the area of developed pieces and block were calculated and difference ratio between the block area and the developed pieces' area is calculated. Also, area difference ratio by the number of triangles is calculated. The difference ratio was represented as graphs and optimal section is selected by the shape of graphs. The optimal matrix was set considering connection with other blocks. Curves of torso upper front shell were regenerated by the optimal matrix and developed into pieces. We validated it's suitability by comparing difference ratio between the block area and the developed pieces' area of optimal section. The results showed that there was no significant difference between block area and the pieces' area developed by optimal matrix. The optimal matrix for 2D developing could be characterized as two types according to block's shape characteristics, one is affected by triangle number, the other is affected by number of raws more than columns. Through this study, both the 2D pattern developing from 3D body shape and 3D modeling from 2D pattern is possible, so it's standardization also possible.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.9-17
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• 2007

Somatotype is human body shape and physique type which can be classified not only by the size, but also by the shape or posture of the body. Postural variations in the alignment of the back, shoulder, and neck can have an adverse effect on the fit of garments designed to hang from the shoulders. There have been some previous studies about the lateral upper torso by analyzing photographic measurements. In this study, 3D body scan images were used to classify the side somatotype of upper lateral method even though they are major data in the classification of upper torso. This study focused on following objective.; 1) To apply new and developing technology into the apparel industry analyzing 3D body scan images. 2) To classify upper laterla torso using the data through the new improver technology, 3D body scanner. 3) To propose basic materials for well fitted garments for each type of figure. The test subjects for this study were two hundreds nine female aged 19 years and up who were recruited in Cornell university body scan research team. Seventeen Variables(12 angles, 5 lengths) out of 3D body scan data were measured based on these landmarks and applied to analyze. The result of factor analysis indicated that 6 factors were extracted through factor analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of Varimax and those factors comprise 62.5% of total variance. And the somatotype of upper body is classified into 3 types of figures according to cluster analysis; Bent forward posture, Straight posture, Swayback posture. Future study could be addressed about the somatotype of body by the age group based on the large database with wide variety of age.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.675-688
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the body type characteristics of tall adult men aged 20 to 69 years to present base material on body dimensions for men's clothing companies. The research method comprised statistical analysis of 3D measurements after selecting items from the 8th Korean human body size survey related to the torso body types of 495 adult men who were at least 178cm tall. As a result, six factors were extracted, and the total explanatory variable of the entire factor was shown to be 80.499%. As a result of cluster analysis using this as an independent variable, three types were derived: Type 1, "a normal body type with an oval cross-sectional shape" (37.6%), with a larger vertical size and an oval chest cross-sectional shape compared to other types; Type 2: a "cylindrical thick body shape" (31.1%), which is the first stage of BMI obesity, with narrow shoulders and a cylindrical shape with a round cross-section; Type 3, "a body shape with broad shoulders and developed chest parts" (31.3%), with a horizontal size similar to Type 2 above the waist, but similar to Type 1 below. The results of this study are expected to be used as a basis for a clothing dimension system and clothing development for tall men reflecting the characteristics of the torso.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.143-154
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• 2021

This study attempted to develop winter jackets and pants patterns reflecting the latest comfortable and active school uniform trends, using middle school boy avatars having various body shapes. Jacket and pants pattern-drawing methods and margins differed. Based on the results, research prototypes were prepared. Then, virtual wear prospective drawings, clothing pressure, and appearance were assessed according to body shape. Jackets were assessed using 25 factors, while pants were assessed using 19. Then, correlations between the jackets and pants were analyzed. According to the analysis, the reason why the dart & tuck position and margin were rated low was confirmed. In a virtual wear assessment on jacket patterns by body shape, a significant difference was found in all categories, except for fit and shape at the front bottom, sleeve length on the side, and the center back line. The virtual wear assessment on the pants patterns by body shape also revealed a significant difference in all categories, except for pants length. In jackets, a significant influence was observed around the shoulders and waist in Type 1 and around the belly in Type 2. On the contrary, for pants, a significant influence was found around the hip and waist in Type 1 and around back crotch in Type 2. Therefore, they should be considered when making of jackets and pants. The above results suggested that jacket and pants patterns should vary depending on body shape. It is anticipated that there should be further studies comparing brand-name school uniforms for middle school girls and school uniforms by body shape.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.37-52
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• 2006

This study was designed to analyze the three-dimensional shapes of Hanbok Chima made with various fabrics and to clarify the relationship between fabric properties as well as the objective and subjective evaluations of the 3D shape. For 3D shape data, a dress form (9A2 (N; nude)) was scanned with eight Chima garments made with the same number of fabrics. The scanner used was a non-contact three-dimensional human body measuring system belonging to Bunka Women's University in Japan. Data concerning the objective evaluation of the 3D shape was obtained from the measurements of the vertical and horizontal sections: those for subjective evaluation were through the sensory test after exposure to photographs from a front and side view. Four fabric factors were extracted from fabric physical properties: softness, extension, thickness of threads, and weight of fabric. Such factors as expansion (volume), sag of rear train, shape of nodes were influential in explaining the 3D shape of Hanbok Chima. From the analysis of the 3D shape, it can be deduced that with the constituent fabric stiffer, lighter, and less stretchable, the more expanded the 3D shape appeared to be. Multiple regression results showed that vertical shape factors have a greater effect on the evaluation of the 3D shape. It also implies that dependent variables of this study such as the subjective evaluation and 3D shape can be derived from regression equations on independent variables as fabric property factors or 3D shape factors. These results can enable the manufacturers to predict the 3D shape of the garment as well as the human subjective assessment to improve the efficacy of production. The investigation method proposed in this study can also be applicable to other garment items.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.603-614
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• 2023

Body shape is the most influential factor in determining the quality of clothing fit. Women's body shape begins to change significantly in their mid-30s; therefore, this study aimed to classify and analyze the torso shapes of women aged 35-54 years. This study selected 200 3D body scans of women from the 8th Size Korea Survey database (2021). Using the Grasshopper algorithm developed in a previous study, 17 landmarks were automatically detected and 57 measurement values were generated. Using principal component analysis, 11 components (overall body size, upper body length, back protrusion, upper body slope, neck position, neck inclination, hip length, bust prominence, abdominal prominence, shoulder slope, and buttock prominence) were extracted. Three torso types were identified using K-means cluster analysis. The three body types were significantly different on nine component scores. Among the three torso types, Type 1 (37.5%) has the longest upper body and the flattest back and hips. Type 2 (31.0%) has the most curved back and forward upper body. Its abdomen is the flattest, and its shoulders are the most sloped. Type 3 (31.5%) has the shortest upper body, the most protruding hips, and the largest overall body size. This paper proposes two discriminant functions for identifying a new person's torso type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.7 s.144
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• pp.1018-1026
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• 2005

Recent development of 3D scanner and software is regarded as a promising method of acquiring replicas from human body indirectly. It would be very helpful if we could predict the characteristics of 2D pattern from the simple parameters related to 3D shape for ordinary user. Therefore, in this study, investigation of 2D pattern of waist/abdominal area from the 3D geometrical model was conducted for the pattern development of waist nipper. To create body models and develop the surface of them, one ortho commonly used CAD/CAM program, IDEAS(UGS-plm solutions, USA) was used. As for the size of the models, the width, thickness, and circumference ranges of adult women's torso reported in National Anthropometric Survey of Korea (1997) were used as a standard model. Seven size variations were made by changing the width of the waist only, from 19 cm to 40 cm. Therefore, simulated body models include not only the normal body but also obese body who has wider waist and abdomen width than hip width. As results, it was found that the curvature of the unfolded 2D pattern around the abdominal area decreases as the waist width increases. As the width of the waist increases more and more, so that the comparative ratios around the torso becomes in abnormal ranges, there appears inflection points and the direction of curvature was changed. 2D Patterns obtained in this research were quantified by curvature, length of the curve and angle of deflection in the reference frame box for the convenience of the actual pattern making process. It was also possible to find that the shape of patterns of abnormal body resulted in a quite interesting change in the curves of 2D pattern, which could be applied to the custom made waist nipper for obese women.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.722-732
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• 2018

This study was to develop a dress form that is highly representative of the body shapes of senior men in their 50s and 60s. And this research was compared the measurements and forms of three different dress forms available in the market, in order to analyze the body type and suitability and provide a standard for developing and utilizing the dress forms. After extracting the body shapes of the senior men's 3D shape, the body type that is curvature on the back prevalent among senior men, was chosen. The dress form was created as follows: 3D modeling and rendering, printing with a FDM-type 3D printer. The dress forms were 3D-scanned and the 3D data was analyzed - classification drop value, area deviation, compared horizontal section and vertical section. The results were as follows: This suggested that the area deviation amount at the chest and hip circumference levels was larger in the commercial products than in the dress form in this study, while that at the waist circumference level was larger in the dress form in this study. The vertical length of the lateral shoulder point-waist circumference was smaller, the side shape showed severe curvature on the back, and the waist circumference was larger in the senior men dress form than the commercial products. The dress form developed in this study reflected the body type of senior men and, therefore, were suitable for fitting when creating clothes for senior men.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.80-85
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the characteristics of armscye circumference which will be used to develop total contents for the apparel industry. The subjects of this study were 16- to 49-year-old women whose 3D body shape data were analyzed. 72 length and length-ratio measurements were taken to each subject' armscye circumference. The used analysis methods are descriptive statistics, principal component analysis, and cluster analysis. The results are follows; 1. Considering the Length of armscye circumference, the result of principal component analysis were extracted 3 factors and those factors comprised 95% of total variance. As the result of the cluster analysis of factor scores, subjects were classified into 4 cluster by their size characteristic. 2. Considering the length-ratio of armscye circumference, the result of principal component analysis were extracted 5 factors and those factors comprised 96.45% of total variance. As the result of the cluster analysis of factor scores, subjects were classified into 5 cluster by their shape characteristic. So that, this research could be useful to manufacture garment which reflected 3D body figure and improved fitting.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.141-157
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• 2013

In this study, we analyzed the figure type and lower-body size of Shanghai and Hong Kong adult women in their early twenties using the data obtained from 3D whole body scanners. We also provided concrete information related to women's lower bodies, in terms of crotch width, crotch length, inseam, outseam, slope of waist, etc., among women in Shanghai and Hong Kong. The result may be useful to the Chinese apparel industry when designing trouser pants for adult women. According to the results of the factor analysis for categorizing the body shape of the lower half, 5 factors were obtained: obesity of the lower half factor, height of the lower half factor, length from waist to the crotch factor, factor related to legs, and shape of the abdomen factor. After performing a cluster analysis according to the factor analysis, three clusters were set: Cluster 1 was represented as the lower half growth type, which has a high value in height of the lower half factor and grows in the abdomen part. Cluster 2 was represented as thin legs type, which has a low value in most part compared to the length of leg bones and factors about legs that have high value. Cluster 3 was represented as the obesity type having a high value in the obesity of the lower half factor. Overall, thin legs type achieved a high rate in Shanghai adult women and obesity type received a high rate in adult women living in Hong Kong.