• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.331-337
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• 2014

We analyzed the 3-D characteristics of the dynamic response of seabed around a submerged breakwater due to wave loading using a 3-D numerical scheme (LES-WASS-3D). Using our model, which considers the wave-structure-sandy seabed interactions in a 3-D wave field, we were able to investigate the 3-D characteristics of the pore-water pressure in the seabed around the submerged breakwater under various incident wave conditions. To verify the 3-D numerical analysis method suggested in this study, we compared the numerical results with the existing experimental results and found good agreement between them. The numerical analysis reveals that high pore-water pressure in the seabed is generated below a large wave height at the front slope of the submerged breakwater. It was also shown that the non-dimensional pore-water pressure in the seabed increases as the wave period increases because the wave energy dissipation decreases on the submerged breakwater and seabed as the wave period increases.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.116-122
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• 2010

The aim of this study is to examine the effects of shape and plane arrangement of submerged breakwaters on 3-D wave breaking characteristics over them. First, the numerical model, which is able to consider the flow through a porous medium with inertial, laminar, and turbulent resistance terms, i.e. simulate directly WAve Structure Seabed/Sandy beach interaction, and can determine the eddy viscosity with a LES turbulent model in a 3-Dimensional wave field (LES-WASS-3D), has been validated by a comparison with Goda's equation for breaking wave heights. And then, using the numerical results, the wave breaking points over the crest of submerged breakwaters have been examined in relation to the shape and plane arrangement of submerged breakwaters. Moreover, the wave height distribution and upper flow around submerged breakwaters have been also discussed, as well as the distribution of the wave breaking points over the beach.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.26 no.5B
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• pp.563-572
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• 2006

In designing the coastal structures, the accurate estimation of wave forces on them is very important. Recently, the empirical formulae such as Goda formula are widely used to estimate wave forces, as well as 2-D hydraulic and numerical model tests. But, sometimes, these estimation methods mentioned above seem to be unreasonable to predict 3-D structure of wave pressure on the coastal structures with 3-D plane arrangement in the real coastal area. Especially, in case of consideration of phase difference at harbor and seaward sides of the large-sized coastal structures like a composite breakwater, it is easily expected that the real wave pressures on each section of coastal structure have 3-D distribution. A new numerical model of 3-D Large Eddy Simulation, which is applicable to permeable structure, is developed to clarify the 3-D structure of wave pressures acting on coastal structure. The calculated wave forces on 3-D structure installed on the submerged breakwater show in good agreement with the measured values. In this study, the composite breakwater is adopted as a representative structure among the large-sized coastal structures and the 3-D structure of wave pressures on it is discussed in relation to the phase difference at harbor and seaward sides of it due to wave diffraction and transmitted wave through rubble mound.

• Bulletin of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.13-27
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• 1988

Two version of the TUMMAC(Tokyo University Modified Marker-And-Cell) method, i.e., $TUMMAC-IV_{vm1}$ and TUMMAC-VI are applied to two water-wave problems. The ship wave of a Series 60 model($C_B=0.6$) and of the fore-body of a HSVA tanker model are simulated by the $TUMMAC-IV_{vm1}$ method are the results are compared with the experimental results. From the comparison with the experimental data it is ascertained that the $TUMMAC-IV_{vm1}$ method is useful for the analysis of the realized by the TUMMAC-VI method is useful for the analysis of the characteristics of nonlinear ship waves. Three-dimensional wave breaking is realized by the TUMMAC-VI method in the simulation of a flow about a vertical rectangular cylinder. From the results of this simulation, it is shown that the TUMMAC-VI method is very available for the simulation of 3-dimensional wave breaking phenomena.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.1-13
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• 2008

In the present work, wave transformation by vertical columns and its wave forces acting on them are discussed using a direct 3-D numerical model based on the VOF (Volume Of Fluid) method. The numerical results for wave transformations and wave forces are critically compared to an advanced experimental data, and provide the verification of the numerical model used in the present study. Overall model-data comparisons are good. After verification of the numerical model, it is used to simulate wave fields around dual vertical columns with arbitrary cross section, and the characteristics of nonlinear wave forces and wave transformations according to the variations of different cross section types of vertical columns, an interval of vertical columns and incident wave angle are discussed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.384-394
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• 1993

A simple surf zone model is presented The present model takes a quite different approach by showing that wave action is conserved in the surf zone. This condition together with the conservation of energy enables us to develop a surf zone model that requires fewer empirical coefficients. The model is capable of predicting surf zone properties and is presented in analytical forms for the two-dimensional gradually-sloped bottoms. The analytical results were compared favorably with available laboratory data. This surf zone model provides the surface current pattern of the vertical circulation model. and consequently, significantly contributes to solving the three-dimensional current pattern.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.217-222
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• 1991

Hydralic model experiments for permeable breakwaters with three different shapes of cap concrete were carried out in a two-dimensional wave channel to investigate the shape effects of cap concrete on transmission rate of the incident waves over the breakwaters. The model test results show that energy damping effects are significant in the following order; cap concrete with dissipation holes and apron, cap concrete with apron only, and cap concrete without dissipation holes and apron. It is concluded that the significant damping effects are due to energy dissipation of the incident wave as they pass through the holes and the apron.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.91-107
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• 1995

In this paper, previously proposed mechanisms of generation and maintenance of rip currents are grouped into three broad categories; (1) prismatic topography models, (2) non-prismatic topography models and (3) structural controls by natural and/or constructed features, such as headlands, piers. groins, jetties. etc. The prismatic models can explain the occurrence of a rip current on a planar beach, while non-prismatic model needs undulatory topography inside the surf zone to generate and maintain a rip current. Yet more detailed and thorough studies need to be conducted to include all relevant variables and to clarify the mechanism(s) governing rip current. Next a simple model is presented to predict mean longshore currents behind a longshore bar (or submerged breakwaters) by considering mass transport over the bar and the bar morphology. This hydrodynamic model could be extended to include the sedimentary feedback mechanism.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.180-198
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• 2019

In recent years, countries like Europe and Japan have been involved in many researches on the Low-Crested Structure (LCS) which is the method to protect beach erosion and it is regarded as an alternative to the submerged breakwaters, and compiled its results and released the design manual. In the past, studies on LCS have focused on two-dimensional wave transmission and calculating required weight of armor units, and these were mainly examined and discussed based on experiments. In this study, three-dimensional numerical analysis is performed on permeable LCS. The open-source CFD code olaFlow based on the Navier-Stokes momentum equations is applied to the numerical analysis, which is a strongly nonlinear analysis method that enables breaking and turbulence analysis. As a result, the distribution characteristics of the LCS such as water level, water flow, and turbulent kinetic energy were examined and discussed, then they were carefully compared and examined in the case of submerged breakwaters. The study results indicate that there is a difference between the flow patterns of longshore current near the shoreline, the spatial distribution of longshore and on-offshore directions of mean turbulent kinetic energy in case of submerged breakwaters and LCS. It is predicted that the difference in these results leads to the difference in sand movement.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.5B
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• pp.559-573
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• 2008

In this study, we newly proposed 3-D nonlinear wave driver utilizing the Navier-Stokes Eq. the numerical integration of which is carried out using SPH (Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics), an internal wave generation with the source function of Gaussian distribution and an energy absorbing layer. For the verification of new 3-D nonlinear wave driver, we numerically simulate the sloshing problem within a parabolic water basin triggered by a Gaussian hump and uniformly inclined water surface by Thacker (1981). It turns out that the qualitative behavior of sloshing caused by relaxing the external force which makes a free surface convex or uniformly inclined is successfully simulated even though phase error is visible and an inundation height shrinks as numerical simulation more proceeds. For the more severe test, we also simulate the nonlinear shoaling and refraction over uniform beach of wedge shape. It is shown that numerically simulated waves are less refracted than the linear counterpart by Hamiltonian ray theory due to nonlinearity, energy dissipation at the bottom and side walls, energy loss induced by breaking, and the hydraulic jump occurring when breaking waves encounter a down-rush by the preceding wave.