• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1825-1836
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• 2008

Many applications in computer graphics require complex and highly detailed models. However it is often desirable to use approximations in place of excessively detailed models in order to control the processing time. Thus, we aim to develop a notion of optimal matrix to simplify surface which can rapidly obtain the high quality 2D patterns flattening 3D surface as follows. Firstly, two 3D bodies are modeled based on existing Size Korea data. Secondly, each model is divided by shell and block for its pattern draft. Thirdly, each block is flattened by grid and bridge method. Finally, we selected the optimal matrix and demonstrated the efficiency and quality of the proposed method. This proposed approach accommodates surfaces with darts, which are commonly used in the clothing industry to reduce the deformation of surface forming and flattening. The resulting optimal matrix could be an initiation of standardization for pattern flattening. It is expected that this method could facilitate much better approximation in both efficiency and precision.

• Journal of the Ergonomics Society of Korea
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.109-125
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to provide basic data for a more functional torso's pattern by analyzing multidimensional anthropometric measurements and the wearing condition. For the functional torso's pattern drafting, the fitness state of basic torso's patterns(4 types) was compared and evaluated from the cross-sectioned overlap maps by $moir{\acute{e}}$ topography. The results were as follows: 1. According to the measurements of four patterns by using the one-dimensional measurement, the amount of ease in girth item for pattern A was the smallest. The ease of clothes was affected by the position of dart, the amount of dart, and the drafting method. 2. As the results of wearing evaluation by $moir{\acute{e}}$ topography method, pattern B had the largest space length for hip part, pattern A, C and D had the largest space length for bust part. Also, in the all measurement items, pattern A had the smallest amount of ease. The space length for bust and waist part of pattern B was smaller than pattern D, but, for abdomen and hip part of pattern B was larger than pattern D. The space length of pattern C was revealed intermediate for all measurement part. 3. The significant difference of space length of each pattern was shown in all parts except bust part(p<.05). The amount of space was affected by the amount of dart, the characteristics of the somatotype, and the drafting method.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1347-1358
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• 2011

This study purposed to analyze differences in body measurement between the 2D direct body measuring method and the 3D body scan measuring method and to perform the appearance evaluation and cross-sectional evaluation of the fit of pants to which body measurements obtained by each measuring method were applied. Body measuring was conducted in 10 women in their 20s-30s using 2D direct body measuring and 3D automatic measuring with Hamamatsu body scanner. Among the 10 women, 3 participated in experimental garment wearing. Experimental pants were made using their 2D direct body measurements and 3D automatic measurements, and wearing tests were performed through expert evaluation and cross-sectional evaluation. The results of the experiment were as follows. According to the results of comparative analysis on differences between 2D direct body measurements and 3D scan measurements, 3D automatic measurements were significantly larger in bust circumference, ankle circumference, armscye circumference, shoulder length, scye depth, and arm length. As circumferences measured with the 3D body scanner were somewhat larger than directly measured ones, it is suggested to adjust ease when using existing pattern making methods. We prepared experimental garments by the same pattern making method through applying body measurements obtained with the two measuring methods, and assessed the fit of the garment comparatively through expert evaluation and 3D scan cross-sectional evaluation. According to the results, 2D-pants using 2D direct body measurements was slightly tighter than 3D-pants using 3D measurements in waist circumference, hip circumference, and abdominal circumference. In the results of comparing appearance in terms of the fit of the experimental garment in each subject, significant difference was observed in most of the compared items. This result suggests that 3D automatic body measuring data may show different accuracy according to body shape and therefore it is necessary to examine difference between 2D direct body measurements and 3D automatic measurements according to body shape.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.44 no.10
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• pp.47-55
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze and compare the color characteristics of preferred clothing textiles of college students. One hundred nine male and female college students were evaluated for their preference to clothing textiles in previous research. To analyze the color characteristics, spectral data were measured. Color, color tone, and values of $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$ according to clothing item were compared. In addition, chromaticity diagram was drawn. The results of this study were as following. 1. The color of the shirts textile that college student preferred most in spring/fall was PB(purple blue) color, lt(light) tone. In general, the preferred textiles for shirts represented a simple color that is close to achromatic color with light and soft shade. The color of the blouse textiles that college student preferred most was PB color, d(dull), g(grayish) and W(white) tone. 2. The most frequently shown color of upper garment was PB, followed by Y(yellow) for shirt and R(red) for blouses. College students prefer a simple color which is close to achromatic color, and a light and soft color was preferred for shirts fabric and they preferred various, medium shades, but closer to pure colors for blouses because college students tend to consider that the aesthetic side is important and usually wear blouses less often than shirts. 3. For slacks, the colors of the preferred textiles were B(blue), PB color and lt.g.(light grayish), g, d and bk(black) tone. Therefore, the preferred textiles for slacks represented simple colors such as bluish or close to achromatic color with light or dark shade. For skirt, YR(yellow red), PB color and lt.g, lt, d. tone were preferred. Therefore, soft light or moderately toned various colors that are close to pure color were especially preferred for skirts. 4. The colors of preferred fabrics for slacks and skirts differed. The colors of the preferred fabrics for slacks were mostly cold color, whereas those of skirts were mostly warm color. And college students preferred various, medium shaded and closer to pure colors for skirts because they tend to consider the aesthetic side as being important. 5. The pattern of preferred fabrics was mostly solid, regardless of clothing item, and melange was the second most preferred pattern. 6. Through the analysis of $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$ values, shirt and blouse textiles showed higher $L^*$ value than that of slacks and skirt. The preferred textiles of college students were generally close to achromatic color because the values of $a^*$, and $b^*$ were very low, as confirmed by the result of the chromaticity diagram.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.271-285
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to develop a new basic skirt pattern for 4 lower body types of Plus-sized women. To reduce a time and economic loss about putting it on, This study applied a 3D sample module in the course to develop a basic skirt pattern which is fit, functional and beautiful. A data analysis used the SPSS 11.0 statistics program. To verify the difference, This study used the variance analysis and Duncan's test for the postmortem verification. The result was as follows. To reflect a feature according to an abdomen projection and hip projection, we added the maximum hip circumference to the waist circumference and hip circumference for necessary for a skirt draft item. The front hip circumference sets to the H/4+1cm(ease)+D/4. The back hip circumference set to the H/4+0.5cm(ease)+D/4. The D is the hip circumference in the maximum hip circumference to subtract. The front waist circumference sets to the W/4+0.5cm(ease)+0.5cm(A front and back's difference)+D/4. The back waist circumference sets to the W/4+0.5cm(ease)-0.5cm(A front and back's difference)-D/4. Compare with 4 lower body types of Plus-sized Women, A type 2 and type 4 abdomen projections are bigger. We raised a front waistline of skirt pattern to a 0.3cm upside, and take about 1.3cm down the skirt length from a developed skirt pattern. Consequently, the appearance of a front skirt length was improved with a side skirt length.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.891-904
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• 2014

The objective of this study is to classify somatotypes of back-surface shape of women in their late 20s by using 3D body scan data(Size Korea 2010) in order to improve fitness of Hanbok Jeogori. The results were as follows: 1. According to the in-depth survey of the experienced expert's interview, most problems related to the fit were caused by the back area of Jeogori. 2. The result of factor analysis indicated that 6 factors were extracted and those factors comprised 82.85% of total variance. 3. According to the cluster analysis, back somatotypes of women in their late 20s were categorized by two types : straight type(54.1%) and bending type(46.9%). The results could be used as the Hanbok Jeogori to improve the fitness of back-surface shape.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.21-32
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• 1981

Clothing must have the individual beauty and the function that one can do one's body movement freely. therefore, from the human engineering view point, the exact measurement of the human body and the analysis of it's results must be applied to clothing because the arm works most. In this study, the skin surface of arm was investigated by shell made of Alginate of each movement. And by sometic method the rate of expansion and contraction of each section, inter-relation among the bust girth, axillary arm girth and scye girth and between the shoulder length right and the under axilla waist length were calculate4d. With these results, cap height, breadth of a sleeve and arm hole girth of existing sleeve pattern have been compared and analysed. The results are as follows; 1) According to the developmental figures of shell, the whole area change was small but that of shape was remarkable in M 4, 9, 13. The change of the Block 1 was particular. 2) Over arm length was contracted in all movements except M6 and under arm length expanded. The changes of sections a, b, c are large, while those of sections d, e are small. 3) In terms of latitudes, change of fore-arm region was small. The rate of scye girth varied from 14.3% of M13 to-5.6% of M2. The breadth of a sleeve expanded in all movements, and especially the front region expanded more than the back. 4) The relation between the shoulder length right and under axilla waist length, in all occasions, was contracted mutually, and one contracted, the other expanded. Therefore, in clothing construction when we consider the function of the arm it is better to widen the arm hole and the breadth of a sleeve at the same time than no widen the shoulder length by lowering the upper part of the upper side seam line.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.6
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• pp.997-1005
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to provide the available date to improve the uniform e of the woman employee of the department more aesthetical and functional on the base of the former studies on their situation of uniform wearing. The process of the study was to compare and evaluate the studied uniforms made of elastic material with the one two times after pattern amendment. The nine subjects composed of threes of 20s, 30s and 40s of age and the evaluators were 5 clothing experts. The 5 scored scale of sensory evaluation method was used to evaluate the appearance and the moving function. The data were analysed with mean and t-test. The results were as flowers: 1.The material of blouse was changed with Poly-span to improve the appearance and the moving function. 2.The new uniform got far more good evaluations in the appearance and the moving function showing the significant difference in p<.001 level. 3.The improved uniform blouse pattern was presented fig2 and fig3.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.58 no.2
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• pp.215-228
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• 2020

Underlying dress forms for high coverage patterns are very important in the dress industry. Size 9 from brand D was chosen according to the analysis that it was the best option because a dress should have a large allowable range in one size. The criteria for selection were the dress form with a waist circumference of 63.50 centimeters, which is close to the standard size of women in Korea. Brassieres for dresses were included to enhance the aesthetic value of the correction process in producing a basic dress pattern. An experimental torso pattern was applied to evaluate the fit and suitability of the dress form that was also later verified in the process of the dress works. Three dresses were produced and presented on the chosen study dress form. The research procedures are as follows. First, the sell-through rates and feedbacks were collected from the dress form vendor. Second, a literature survey on dresses and a dress company investigation were conducted. Third, the amount of body dimension changes due to the use of a bra in the dresses were examined. Fourth, after the correction of the dress form, the torso pattern was made by draping. Fifth, the torso experimental clothing made of muslin material was evaluated. Sixth, the dress works of the top design were presented using the size 9 basic pattern developed by brand D.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.769-781
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• 1997

The purpose of this research is to show how to use the patternist's CAD system in order to make design patterns efficiantly. Using the PAD System Technologies company's PAD System Module, which is very officiant in designing patterns, the basic pattern or design pattern can be designed and applyed to the Sample Module, thus, then it could manufacture, retouch or choose a model, making it posible to go to the next level which is seam patterns for industrial use. By understanding the change of the design that is chosen through the design pattern making and Sample Module process', this study is presentated a plan on how to utilize the patternist's working adaption ability by the CAD system, and also considered the problems in using it. Ability of Design Confrontation of CAD System: 1) The result of an operation can be saved and retouched. On a saved list the patterns can be chosen and changed, thus, making it posible to complete a design very quickly. 2) When sewing every designed pattern in Sample Module, the model can be operated merely by selecting each sewing position, thus creating the same effect of a designer's muslin sample process in a much lesser time. Point at issue in the utilization CAD system: 1) When combining two darts into one place the amounts of darts that are already these have to be erasers, and then, the two darts points are moved that place, thus, containing them, which is very conplicated. 2) When making a gathering, because system can only be recognized in a opend line, the pattern should be separated in order to put a gathering inside a pattern. 3) In order to readjust the amounte of dart. The dart is erased first and then made new dart again. 4) When making tucks in a Sample Module, the form that gets narrow towards the pivot point can not be recognized so the sewing lines of the tucks is adjusted into parallel lines. 5) The Sample Module 3D operation can not attach the bodice to the shirts, instead they become fixed into each other. In the case of shoulder line tucks the amounts of pleats can not be expanded draperary naturally, thus, making it hard to showing the silhouette accurately. If these problems are solved, especially if the silhouette of a model can be created to have natural drapery in the 3D Module, models can be shown on the screen in possible to compare and examine even a change of a detail, by designing this 3D Module Production sample process will be more effective, thus, making the CAD system more useful in sewing design process.