• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.24 no.2
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• pp.241-248
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• 2022

This study aims to provide basic data to suggest guidelines for re-education and work improvement of modelists based on the analysis of the current status of modelist work and education. A survey was conducted from January 4 to May 15, 2020, targeting 44 people working in pattern, pattern CAD, and grading in domestic apparel companies. Descriptive statistical analysis and frequency analysis using SPSS 25 were employed to analyze the status of work type, work difficulties, and re-education. For pattern production, the rate of using pattern CAD for business was high. It was found that companies mainly use YUKA CAD (63.8%), and branded companies use pattern CAD (100%). It was found that 3D CAD is mostly employed by vendors (88.9%), and CLO (90%) is mainly used. Regarding difficulties in pattern making, it was found that they experienced difficulties with stretchable materials owing to the amount of shrinkage and sagging of the fabric. The work problem was the lack of requisite working hours owing to the volume of work. Regarding future re-education, 63.6% of the total respondents indicated that they required a course related to pattern correction and material. Moreover, it was found that re-education was necessary to upgrade technology and acquire new knowledge, however, information on re-education was insufficient.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.10
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• pp.65-77
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to analyze the correlation between the density, the Count and the width of cross section in 2D function through comparison the difference of simulated fabrics based on the various yarns, and to compare the 3D effect by Lay Mapping of diverse fabrics. The method of research is to weave the eight fabrics composed of cotton, linen, worsted, slender yarn, loop, $m{\acute{e}}lange$, woolen, and yarn twist with Hi-Tex program, and to practice 3D mapping with Hi-Print program. As a mapping object, the flared skirt which is a basic costume item is selected. As a result, the thickness of yarn in CAD system was fixed by the width of cross section rather than Count, especially by the width of core section not including the fluff section. The type of yarn such as cotton yarn, linen yarn, and worsted had effect on the shape of texture, but had few interrelations with dimension. In the case of 3D mapping, the textural characteristic and the dimension were presented precisely, whereas there were several limitations. First, the thickness of tissue has not been represented. Secondly, the effect of texture such as fuzzy look, loop was not expressed on the skirt outline including sideline and hemline. Thirdly, the difference of silhouette was not distinct. The common point in 2D and 3D operations is that the representation of texture is relatively accurate and that is difficult to measure and manifest of thickness, the side. For more professional digitalizing in fashion industry, above all in the domain of 3D, it must be supplement the subdivided and differentiated mapping process according to the texture, deviating from the existing analog-based organization which has to designate the form and silhouette suitable for tissue.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.68-79
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• 2009

It is inevitable to have cutting line to get the 2D pattern from 3D body surface. In this paper the efficiency of curvature plot as a cutting line in the process of flattening 3D surface was investigated. As reference, basic clothing construction line was adopted to divide the 3D surface into small blocks to make the flattening process easy. Female dummy as well as human body were scanned and surface of the upper body was segmented using curvature plot and basic constructing line. 2D tight-fit pattern was developed using three software, the RapidForm 2004, 2C-AN and Yuka CAD. Gap between clothes and body, and the clothing pressure on the body was observed to determine the fit of the clothes. As results, clothes constructed with blocks divided by curvature plot displayed a similar level of tight fit as compared with those by basic construction line. It was found that curvature plot is effective method as a segmentation of the 3D surface even for the actual body which does not have any previous reference line. It is expected that application of curvature plot will be expanded in 3D apparel technology.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.19
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• pp.105-125
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• 1992

The research, aiming an automatic pattern design of Korean Costume by utilizing CAD system, tried Grading, Seaming and Marking with a theme of girl's color-strip blouse & skirt. The content & conclusion of the research can be outlined as follows; 1) As we reviewed the current situation of Korean costume which becomes more likely celebrational or festival costume, while the demand of it is getting increase, it's being dealt mostly as ready-made dresses with different qualities & designs. Especially childrens ready-made ones were highly demanded to be picked up as the theme. 2) For the original drawing of children's color-strip blouse & skirt, Kyung-Ja Park's drawing method was used here, and for the substitute of particular body parts absolute size, Joo-Won Lee's standard size chart from a size-study by ages. 3) To work with CAD system we had input master pattern, drawn for age 5 as basic size, then graded six step-sizes for 1-11 years old. For add-subtract of particular body parts size, we graded through computing the standard variation among items to get the pattern developed into ready-made standard size, we can make precise plotting by grading wanted size very rapidly if we correct the rule of changed items different from standard size to make utilization possible enough with easy order method of ready-made Korean Dress. 4) We produced Marker after attaching a margin to seam accordingly by parts for each pattern using P/D/S to mark, In mass gament-cutting, the loss of time and material can minimized. In this research the apparel CAD system which has been utilized and only be western fashion industry was introduced for the design of ready-made Korean costume and utilized it in Grading, Marking which are critical steps to improve productivity and have reported the result in the research. Thus we expect that less cost, improved productivity and better quality with minimized loss of material from marking as well as from prompt and precise size-drawing. Furthermore the utilization of CAD system is considered as an effective one in terms of the research & the development to remove effective one in terms of the research & the development to remove irrational elements in the design and production process of Korean costume as well as in terms of the study of Korean Costume development through creative works of Korean Costume.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.124-133
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• 2016

Currently the fashion industry is developing to create a novel culture due to the very sensitive and knowledge-oriented advancement of the IT industry. With fast turnover of information, consumers have come to have a more diverse desire for purchasing. Cubical expression techniques, which empathizes formativeness, can be a creative expression method adjusting into the trend of this era. Along with functional aspects of consumers, even in a textile manufacturing sector, new materials are required to meet sensitive and emotional aspects. Consumers' desire for new and creative designs and the development and adoption of new materials are essential to meet their emotions. The IT industry and fashion industry are forced to combine and a 3D apparel CAD system has been developed, enabling virtual clothing to be represented within a computer virtual space. All processes such as design, pattern creation, sewing and simulation are possible in 3D level. Digital clothing can shorten the production process time and is very effective in that it can reduce clothing waste generated during the sample production. This paper reviewed the works of Dutch designer, Iris van Herpen, who has developed formative designs. She tries to build, construct, and sculpt employing diversified materials other than soft textile materials, as shown in her series of fashion shows. The materials include films, 3D printed polymers, stiff and sheer organza, and artificial leather textiles. A few characteristics of her works have been selected in order to prepare patterns exhibiting the traits. The paper further focused on the physical features of the textile materials used to express similar techniques and its various forms were reviewed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.102-114
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• 2009

Chitosan is a polysaccharide with cationic amino groups in its structure and has useful properties as functional materials. Various end-use developments of chitosan are in progress. When the cotton fabric is pretreated with chitosan, the hand property of cotton fabric may be improved expecially for the summer apparel. In this study, as a cross-linking agent to introduce chitosan into cotton, BTCA(butane-1,2,3,4-tetracarboxylic acid) or CA(citric acid) was added in order to prevent detachment of chitosan by the cross-linking. During the cross-linking procedure, via the padding-drying-heat setting, amino groups of chitosan and hydroxyl groups of cotton, carboxyl groups of BTCA/CA are cross-linked by forming anhydrous cyclic rings. Since BTCA has four carboxyl groups, cross-linking by thermal treatment is easy, leading to the trials in wrinkle-recovery treatment of cotton fabrics. However, the high price of the BTCA reagent has been a shortcoming in the actual application for industrial use. Therefore, in this study, we tried the application of CA having three carboxyl groups, which is relatively low priced, as the substituting cross-linking agent. The hand of the treated fabrics were evaluated by measuring physical properties. In addition, based on the physical properties, three-dimensional images were introduced by using 3D CAD systems and results were compared.