The rapid development of science technology during the 20th century has greatly lowered the hours for labour, thus giving members of society extra time for leisure. With the increasement of leisure activities, sports casual wear has become one of the foremost leading items in the fashion industry, and among such sports casual, down wear has become the F/W season's most popular item. Because it generates high profits, many recognize it as a very important factor in lady's wear. Since the 1990's, down wear was widely applied to various sections of lady's, men's, and children's wear, and it has ceased to be limited to sports casual only. The purpose of this study was to fully understand the characteristics of down, and to develop crossover garments design desired not only in the F/W season but also the S/S season. It has been taken into consideration that many restrictions in sewing technique and material selection in manufacturing down as a fashion product exist when choosing a means of manufacture. That was why this study focused on the history and characteristics of down while analysing the works of domestic and foreign designers to concretely applicate them in fashion products. This study has divided the resulting down wear products according to consumer preference: vest, jacket, coat, one-piece, and skirt to applicate design manufacture of lady's wear in general, while designing and making artistically expressed down wear. There were 48 works developed as a result of this study, of which 41 were ready-to-wear, and the remaining 7 works were creative art wear.
I paid attention to the fact that surrealism emerging in early 20th century has been resurfacing in the 21st century. It may be because of the increasing interest on the space showing the surrealistic features as people in these days prefer the experimental and dramatic space beyond repetitive daily life. I tried to identify the expressive characteristics in the interior space adopting the depaysement technique among a variety of expression techniques of surrealism. To this end, this paper selected 10 interior design projects by Fabio Novembre and Marcel Wanders since 2000s. As the methodology, chapter 2 examined the theories to identify the expression targets and approaches of depaysement around the art paintings. Next, the standard for case analysis in this paper was established by investigating the existing theses related to interior and space design with depaysement as the key word. The expressive characteristics of depaysement identified from the existing researches were classified into morphological, figurative, material and space program. Those programs were developed as the classification system in this paper. Chapter 3 described the design background and features of Fabio Novembre and Marcel Wanders. On the basis of the features and analysis framework identified in chapter 2 and 3, chapter 4 analyzed the features of depaysement observed in the works by both designers. The conclusion was presented in chapter 5. For the expressive characteristics of depaysement observed in the space by both designers, Novembre created optical illusion using distortion or overlap on the morphological aspect. Wanders showed mainly the feature of changing the scale. In accordance with the analysis on expression principles, the features including spatial continuity, ambiguity of border, visual amusement and uncertainty were differentiated in all spaces.
Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
/
v.40
no.5
/
pp.936-953
/
2016
This article surveys the meaning and history of fashion museum exhibitions to understand the characteristics that make a fashion museum exhibition special. It explores dress museology and fashion museology in theory, and practice across a range of international case studies that include the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York, Mode Museum in Antwerp, and the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. In particular, it examines how curatorial intervention has developed the interpretation and display techniques of dress within the context of the museum or gallery as well as how fashion has made museums accessible to diverse audiences. For a specific case study, we review the types and roles of fashion exhibitions organized by the Simone Handbag Museum, Seoul. It is the first handbag-centered fashion museum in the world as well as one of the most representative local fashion museums. The museum collection includes fashionable western handbags from rare specimens of the $15^{th}$ century to the latest bags of the $21^{st}$ century, and presents a history of changing fashion cycles and the major socio-cultural shifts that have profoundly affected women's lives in public spaces. Exhibitions show the perspective to a range of curatorial methodologies and show the innovative approaches towards collections and displays with broader fashion issues such as gender, materialism and technology. The article is to help encourage further scholar discourse between fashion museum exhibitions and fashion museology.
Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in Japanese avant-garde fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Japanese avant-garde fashion focuses on a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, participation of the wearer, attention to recent technology and material, and absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. The absence of body in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body Ultimately, planarization of the body betrays the correspondence between signifiant and signifie in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in Japanese avant-garde fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.
Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify transfiguration in fashion design. In order to inquire tile formative style and aesthetic values expressed in transfiguration in fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the late 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Transfiguration signifies absence of body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Transfiguration is expressed in non-figural forms which implies metaphorical plasticity and abstract extensity. Transfiguration in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body. Ultimately, this phase also betrays the correspondence between signifiant and $signifi\acute{e}$ in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in transfiguration in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.
Until the 1950s, linear algebra was considered only as one of abstract and advanced mathematics subject among in graduate mathematics courses, mainly dealing with module in algebra. Since the 1960s, it has been a main subject in undergraduate mathematics education because matrices has been used all over. In Korea, it was considered as a course only for mathematics major students until 1980s. However, now it is a subject for all undergraduate students including natural science, engineering, social science since 1990s. In this paper, we investigate the early history of linear algebra and its development from a historical perspective and mathematicians who made contributions. Secondly, we explain why linear algebra became so popular in college mathematics education in the late 20th century. Contributions of Chinese and H. Grassmann will be extensively examined with many newly discovered facts.
Vincent van Gogh is a Dutch postimpressionism artist that is one of the most influential painter of the 20th century with his vivid colors and sensibility. 'The Bedroom at Arles' is the art piece that van Gogh himself had admitted to be a great artwork, which also reflects the story of his life and inner thoughts. The spacial characteristics of 'The Bedroom at Arles' are amanufactures the following. First, the space shown at 'The Bedroom at Arles' exhibits the phenomenon of undoing the law of perspective by authorizing individual existence to the objects and space, instead of fitting in the objects into the space in the order given by the law of perspective; entirely rearranging the reminiscent space from past. Secondly, the expression 'bedroom' reflects that the subject was about his own experience with the space and a representation of his imagination, which is a metaphorical symbol. Thirdly, van Gogh used strong colors and brush touches to express his subjective opinion, which aren't the actual shades of the scene, but chosen only to approach the space and objectives with his own symbolic interpretation from his heart. Through a synthetic overview of the characteristics of van Gogh's 'The Bedroom at Arles', it could be told that he holds an essential Space perception system, in hir inner self. The space is intentionally rearranged and strangely altered to form an entirely new relation, breaking the tension from the systematically stable rules and orders. 'The Bedroom at Arles' seems to express an unique and symbolic sensation and experience through the combination of its colors and spacial structure.
This writing is about an effort to try to preserve and transmit the materials related to Jing-Ju(京劇) who is the Chinese traditional theatrical art. The plan to preserve the materials of performing arts is very important because its collection and preservation about them are much more particular than other genres. China got the great results in this field because of China Jing-Ju Yinpeixiang (中國京劇音配像) project. Jing-Ju Yinpeixiang project is a kind of project to restore and preserve the materials which reproduced Jing-Ju repertoire by inserting the performance method of Yinpeixiang (音配像: put together images to sounds) by later actors and actresses of Jing-Ju in recordings of 1950s to 1960s by remained famous ones. Also, this is the large scale culture project that more than 170 institutions and more than 3000 persons participated in during the total 21 years that it first started in 1985 and was completed in the end of 2006. Thanks to this project, China got to have the almost perfect materials which reproduced live performances to add the images of junior actors and actresses who accurately imitated performances of 115 famous actors and actresses including each type of role, schools and great actors from 1907 to the end of 20th century in their voices. This is the only method to restore the materials in this world and very creative. It's been 15 years since TV broadcasting first showed its fruition to Chinese people. The Chinese government gave the positive judgement on this project and prepared to hold the big event which celebrated itself this year. But very little is known of this process and there is no any study in Korea. This writing tried to clarify what Jing-Ju Yinpeixiang project is, what it has meant to Chinese people and what results it has gotten after it's been 15 years since the first show was on TV.
This paper is to find the theme and meaning of the Beauvais Grotesque tapestry considered a conundrum. The three works are chosen from Beauvais Grotesque consisting of six tapestries, which are The Offering to Pan, The Musician and Dancers, The Camel in the J. Paul Getty Museum. I analyzed these works by dividing them into grotesque ornaments, chinoiserie motifs, and scenography. The Offering to Pan shows the influence of Raphael's Grotesque tapestry, but Beauvais work followed the design of Jean Berain's Grotesque with arabesque. In The Musician and Dancers, chinese ceramics, textiles, and Chinese people in edge were noted. Especially, the Chinese with yellow skin in the border reveals the European gaze on China at that time. In the 18th century, Chinoiserie was prevalent through stage designs rather than books. The Camel, playing Brighella, makes it clear that this tapestry is a stage of Comedia dell'arte. The characteristic of Comedia is a mixture of genres such as music and dance, with no scripting 'improvisation.' Features of Comedia are 'improvisation' without a script and a mixture of genres such as music and dance. Thus, the Grotesque tapestry transfers the stage of the Comedia into threads woven. In addition, the horizontal stage decoration with the disappearance of the perspective vanishing point is related to the era of regent of Philippe d'Orl?ans (1674-1723). Above all, the grotesque, Chinoiserie, and scenography are all fantasies separated from reality. Therefore, the Beauvais Grotesque tapestry represents of 'improvisation' and 'fantasy' in which there is no narrative theme or meaning, as if the script of Comedia did not exist.
This study aims to analyze the influence of bakery cafes servicescape on customer satisfaction and revisit intention, and to verify the mediating effect of customer satisfaction on the relationship between servicescape and revisit intention. This study targeted 10 bakery cafes located in Seoul, and after asking the persons concerned of the bakery cafes to check understanding, a survey with customers aged 20 or over was conducted over 10 days from March 15th to 24th 2015. A total of 250 self-administered questionnaires were distributed, and 244 questionnaires(97.6%) were used for study analysis after the exclusion of 6 incomplete and unreliable responses. To investigate the demographic characteristics of the respondents, a frequency analysis was carried out; for verification of the reliability and validity of the measuring tools, a reliability analysis and exploratory factor analysis were carried out; and for verification of the research hypotheses, simple and multiple regression analyses as well as a mediation analysis were carried out. All the data required for this study were analyzed using the SPSS 18.0 statistic program. The study findings showed that servicescape influenced customer satisfaction and revisit intention, and that Customer satisfaction had a mediating effect. Based on these findings, future marketing strategies and differentiated servicescape application methods for bakery cafes were suggested. Moreover, the limitations of the study and orientation for further research were discussed.
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