• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.544-561
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• 2020

Goldwork embroidery is the art of embroidery using metal threads. As well as being used as a decorative element of religious clothing, flags, performing costumes, uniforms, and badges, goldwork embroidery is also used in many current designer collections. Therefore, this study aimed to examine the techniques and materials of goldwork embroidery and the formative characteristics and socio-cultural values of goldwork embroidery from its beginning to the early 20th century. For this study, various embroidery works, costumes, museum portraits, and literature were analyzed. The results are as follows. First, the transition of goldwork embroidery was divided into 4 categories: The beginning of goldwork embroidery; the golden age of goldwork embroidery; the maturity of goldwork embroidery; and various goldwork embroidery (depending on the materials used, usage, and design features). The earliest extant example is the "Maaseik fragments" in Belgium dating from the late 8th to early 9th centuries. Until the 15th century, the Church was the most important patron of goldwork embroidery; however, after the 15th century, goldwork embroidery was produced on costumes. Second, the social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery (based on transition and formative features) were classified as expression of divinity, instrument of governance, desire to be approved, and tools of self-expression. Through this study, it is evident that there have been many advances in both technique and technology over time. Furthermore, patterns of usage and social-cultural values of goldwork embroidery have changed significantly.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.30
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• pp.295-306
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• 1996

A large quantity of exhumed clothing found for recent 20 years has becom-e the material for making a concrete clarification of the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty. Exhumed clothing means the clothing found in the coffin when the grave of the ancestor buried several hundred several hundred years ago is removed to another pla-ce and it is almost comprised of ordinary clothes of the grave-owner not mourning clothes as well as clothing and ornaments in the period between the 15th cen-tury and th 19th century. This research is intended to inquire into the kind of chimas in the 16th century before the Imjin Japancese Invasion of Korea during 1592-1598. The after effect of the Imjin Japanese In-vasion was generally reflected in clothing them and the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty began to overshadew its di-chotomy with the Imjin Japanese I vasion of Korea as the point. Accordingly this research is concerned with the study of the chima system of the early Chosun dynasty which shows that there is a common point of the identical form though clothing was exhumed in different graves. Therefore it was possible to grasp women's clothing that was fashionable at that time The object for research is the women in the upper class of the 16th century whose representative characteristics are depicted as follows: 1. Women in the upper class wore the splendid clothing similar to the ordinary clothing of court ladies. 2. The division of ordinary chima and ceremonial chima appeared in the concrete. 3. Ceremonial chima had its extra width and length and exhibited its exaggerated silhouette. in particular it had a various forms of over-pleats made at its center front which play a role in supplementing discomfort in walking. This associate bustle and crinolin styles through which the modern design of clothing can be glimpsed. 4. The opposite phenomenon was shown that has been perceived up to now such as folding at the right plain seam the treatment of the edge-and the like. 5. The elaboration of manual needlework shows the culmination of women's workmanship.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.16 no.5
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• pp.891-909
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to examines the changes in Chinese women's clothing resulted from the introduction of Western culture in the first hal# of the 20th century in terms of Chinese view of the world and their attitude towards European culture. The clothes are divided into four types according to their characteristics : traditional Chinese type, China-Europe adjustment type, China-Europe blend type and European type. As for the research method, both literature and visual data are examined. The traditional Chinese type showed changes only in the width and length retaining the features of the traditional qipao until the 1910s. The China-Europe adjustment type used the same flat pattern making of traditional Chinese dress while imitating only the appearances of European one-piece, two-piece and three-piece dresses. It also was presented with European accessaries and hair-styles. The China-Europe blend type, starting to appear with the introduction of the three-dimensional pattern making from the Europe in the 1930s, showed a perfect mixture of European and traditional Chinese costumes in the early 1940s when the Chinese learned and adapted the European pattern making. The European type was the most modernized designs using a variety of European-style details and constructions as the traditional clothing started to have unrestricted European-style changes. Great significance can be found in the fact that the Chinese modified their garments by themselves using the pattern mating they learned from the Europe.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.15 no.3
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• pp.109-118
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• 2013

Fashion icons of 21st century are not only the fashion leaders that show fashion trend but also the typical fashion signs or symbols that show visually changes in sensibility trends. The purpose of this study was to analyze the framework of 21st century fashion by the public to recognize through these changes. In this study, the background of the occurrence of various 21st century fashion icons and their characteristics were investigated and the changes of revealed features and symbolic meanings were examined compared with them of 20th century. The 24 celebrities which have been called as the bests of fashion icons since year 2000 were selected by searching the most popular search engines such as daum, yahoo and google, and 13 of them were picked as the highest in preference and awareness by surveying 50 students majoring in fashion. And then their fashion styles, backgrounds, and influence on the public fashion were studied. As a result, the 21st century fashion icons reflecting the cultural characteristics such as convergence and exaggeration and the sensitivities of fusion, collaboration, hybrid sensibility in art were powerful enough to create innovative styles destroying the era and the standard. Their styles have constantly created new looks. The exposed new individual sensitivities on media-fusion of two or more sensibility and coordination techniques without being tied to the existing anchorage system-were as influential as high fashion and leaded the imitation and reproduction by dazzling the public. As the media become more powerful, the influence of fashion icons interacted more closely with the public and has been evolved through the sensitivity of the reversal, cultural, economic, visual, or temporal fusions. To sum up, it is shown that the outstanding fashion styles suggested by the leading fashion designers have approach to the public more closely by the fashion icons.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.7 s.98
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• pp.1-21
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• 2005

The purpose of this research was to re-illuminated the artistic value of costumes that had shared identical history with human beings through the formation and the progress of the newly introduced Russian avant-garde an. This resulted from the fact that the Russian avant-garde art changed the human esthetic sense through the style of art that Larionov and Goncharova introduced in the 20th century. The research method defined the formation and the progress of the development of the Rayonism centering the works of art by Larionov and Goncharova. Based on this method, larionov and Goncharova designed the set and the costumes for the Ballets Russes of Serge Diaghilev and studied the molding characteristics of the costumes worn in the performing an. The result were as follows. First of all, Larionov's costumes of art were all manufactured based on the theme of nature and genesis. In other words, Larionov represented the sun as a humanistic god through the white night, the natural weather condition of northern Russia. His costumes also displayed the symbolic meaning of the personification of animals like birds and cats, which emphasized the importance of both nature and tradition. However, he used Rayonism expression when he designed costumes by applying the nature themes. On the other hand, Goncharova applied the Spanish passion, the Russian folk art lubok, and goldern cockerel or religious icon-paintings in her costumes. she pursued straight lines and abstract shapes in her costume design. her design displayed the Rayonism influence through the separation between the lines and the surfaces, whic defined the costumes as a decorative art experiment. Therefore, the study of Larionov and Goncharova had one realize that Rayonism was not only an art form of Avant-garde, but it also became the basis of the molding character of all the artworks. Larionov and Goncharova reflected the miracle of the transformation of the 20th century in their costume designs.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.4
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• pp.84-103
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• 1998

The purpose of this study si focused on Futurism style and contemporary fashion in the 20th century, by researching the Giacomo Balla, Fortunato Depero, Tullio Crali, Erenesto Thayate characteristics fashion design. The results of this study are following as : The general traits of Futurism style are classified with aesthetics, formative characteristics. First, aesthetic characteristics are based on H. Bergson's life-phylosophy and F. Nietzche's art theory. Second, formative characteristics is Dynamism. Futurism Dynamism are classified with psychological Dynamism and physical Dynamism. Futurism trends in the costume : first, dynamism in fashion design, second, asymmetrical balance, third, formativeness, forth, technology, fifth, anti-traditionalism. Dynamism are expressed textile, pattern and costuem shape in contemporary dress. Asymmetrical balance are expressed costume silhouette shape and framework through the geometrical asymmetrical balance. Formativeness are agree with Paco Rabanne's fashion design expressed body and movement and phychological world of human through the secondly fabric. Technology are expressed new mechanical dynamism in used technology art and new fashion material by metal. The last, anti-traditionalism is recognized new value and idea in fashion.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.135-150
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to explicate the contemporary concept of the term 'sportswear' by studying the history of sportswear tradition in America where sportswear was first established and developed. American sportswear originated from some functional clothes made for specific sports during the 19th century. Early in 20th century, there occurred many significant events in America while Americans were undergoing two successive world wars. First of all, due to the wars, women's role in labor force became so significant that their social status was enhanced remarkably. With economy growing every decade, the amount of leisure time for American people substantially increased and, therefore they could develop their leisure activity culture. All these changes made Americans demand the need for comfortable and functional clothes suitable for their changed way of life. In response to this demand, the sportswear tradition became mature due to the contribution by many creative All-American designers, most of whom have made their active contributions since 1970s. Now the sportswear, which used to be designed for specific sports, developed into casual wear in general with its extended definition. The contemporary concept of sportswear is no longer limited to those clothes for specific sports. Sportswear has now become more like a casual activity wear which all classes of people can enjoy in their life. Since the concept and scope of sportswear is extended to a great degree today, we need a new professional term to correctly express the extended nature of these contemporary clothes.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.37-52
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• 2011

The purpose of this thesis is to study how Physical Distortion has been developed on the fashion from a surrealistic point of view and how it could be contributed to development of clothing design. This body distortion phenomenon has been started from primitivism times and it is still going on with various ways. Each era's distortion has been changed due to social cultural and environment matters. Especially influences of surrealism on the 20th century art transcended the limit of thought. Since appearance of surrealism 21th century fashion design has been opened up for new possibilities. There are no stereotypes no boundaries and our society is getting increasingly diversified. People in those society is longing to have another esthetic requirements. Also surrealistic physical distortion in the contemporary fashion has been produced unique design with new technology and new material. Physical distortion in fashion possess an infinite possibilities that could concoct the most amazing clothes. Also it has another strong potential that conducting us the way to produce design in novel ways. There is no doubt that surrealistic physical distortion in the contemporary fashion is absolute necessity to continue on evolution of clothing design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.73-85
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• 2001

The human body is a subject to represent one's thoughts and feelings more easily. Historically, the women's body has become a implement to express an ideal of beauty with the changes of the times and it has created some ideal boy by various means.We have been influenced consciously or unconsciously by the ideal body made artificially. As fashion dolls and mannequins came out with various style in he 19th century, the fashion and the ideal body of those days were expressed completely. In the 20th century, it took as a matter of course that commercialization of fashion made persue the ideal body, so mannequin as a transmitter of esthetic presentation were used to express the ideal body. Mannequin is a implement to express an ideal body of that times, because mannequin, when it is made, is exactly embodied fashionable images of that times which include a ratio of the human bodys curve, a pose, an ample bosom, a fashionable dress and so on. This study considers changes of the ideal body and the fashionable clothes in each generation from the 1920's to the present time, and, on the basis of this, the correlation of the ideal body with the form of mannequins. And this study examines what kind of mannequins, that is, realistic mannequin, sculpture mannequin, and abstract mannequin.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.3 s.39
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• pp.239-250
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was primarily aimed at the revealing changes in the aspects of women's clothing derivationed with the women's self-consciousness, liberation movement, women's suffrage and social participation from the mid-l9th century to the mid-20th century. According to the study, the main change of western women's costumes were eradication of corset, emergence of troussers and tailored suit, and transformation of sportwear. So that, women's liberation movement has an deep effect on leading up to a change tendency the functionalization and masculinization of women's costume.