• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2000

This paper surveys the fabric weavability and machine efficiency in the various weaving looms such as Projectile, Rapiers, and Air-jet. Used projectile loom was Sulzer-PU, and FAST-R, THEMA-11E, and Picanol-GTX were used for Rapier looms, as the Air-Jet looms, Picanol PAT and OMNI types were used. Using these looms, 5 harness worsted satin fabrics were woven for surveying the fabric weavability and machine efficiency. Warp yam count of fabric is 1/40Nm, Sirofil, and filling is 1/30 Nm, worsted. End breaks of warp and filling directions for the various types of looms are measured and discussed with the mechanism of each loom. Warp and filling yam tensions are also measured and analysed with open width of shedding motion of each weaving machine. And various warp yam tensions with open width of shedding are measured and analysed according to the warp yam in various heald frame. These results fire also discussed with temples such as bar and ring. Warp yam tensions at the various positions on the fabric with various looms are measured and discussed with fabric mechanical properties such as tensile, bending, shear and surface.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.387-410
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to approach to the internal meanings included in the Happening and the culture of hippies, by analysing the basic mental conditions in the process of the Happening. And this study was composed of the concept and the development of Happening, the characteristics of the hippies that related in the midst of the happening's background, and the formativeness between these factors and hippies'fashion. Since the happening a genre of fine arts expression attended the New School for social research in New York in 1954, Allan Kaprow direct-influenced by John Cage used the word 'Hapening'first, practicing '18 Happenings in 6 parts'at the Rueben gallery in 1959. Kaprow's 18 Happenings was one of the earliest opportunities for a wider public to attend the live events that several artists had performed more privately for various friends. Despite the very different sensibilities and structures of artist's works, artists were all thrown together by the press under the general heading of 'Happening', following Kaprow's 18 Happenings. Being considered as the root of the Happening 'Expression of Sound'of John Cage was the discovery of the exisiting thing- the Happening. Most artists were to be deeply influenced by Cage's theories and attitudes-that is, his sympathy for Zen Buddihism and oriental philosophy-and by reports of the Black Mountain events. These events would directly reflect contemporary painting and stemmed from the Futurists, Dadaists and Surrealists. And Happening's development background was based on the culture of hippies. Swinging London had been under the sway of psychedelic drugs and utopian visions of 'hippie'wave sweeping in from Califonia. This wave, which affected solid middle-class youth first and formost, began in Haight Ashbury in San Francisco. Without dwelling on the hippie movement here, it is worth nothing that it resulted from the convergence of several undercurrents : consciousness-expending drugs, the anti-Vietnam war developments, the impact of English pop groups on American music and the rise of protest songs, and finally the beatnik tradition of non-conformism. Hippie culture and its pursuit of love, peace and psychedelia was the antitheses of 1960s main street fashion. The media gave everyone with long hair the label of 'hippie', but it was always a very loose collage of attitudes and styles. The rejection of sexual taboos was conveyed by the hippie's refusal to wear. Although the bold exposure of body raised controversies because it went against the existing moral values, it has a significant implications. Psychedelics brought mind-expansion and the possibillity that modern technology (light show, synthesized electronic sounds), new fabrics or colors, and LSD could be utilized to provide an escape route from the dreariness of modern life. During the 1960s, traditional costumes, many of which had never been seen outside their native regions, became sought after and adopted in the West, initially by the young, who wanted to demonstrate their solidarity with cultures uncontaminated by mass industry. The most ardent proponents of such folk costumes were the hippies. Hippies dress was sometimes decribed as 'anti-fashion', produced by a patchwork of ragged cast-offs and flamboyant accessories, of outmoded Western dress and time-honored ethnic garments all combined, modified and permutated into variety of personal statements. 'Flower Power'became a reality. From the results of this study, we can see the expanding trend of the influence and the concept of the sew art genre 'Happening'in the formativeness as well as the fine arts field.

• Bulletin of the Korean Chemical Society
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.110-117
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• 2000

A series of new liquid crystalline dimesogenic compounds with chiral tails was synthesized, and their thermal and liquid crystalline properties were studied. The chain length of the central polymethylene spacers (x) was varied from dimethylene (2) to decamethylene (12). These compounds were characterized by elemental analysis, IR and NMR spectroscopy, differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), and cross-polarizing microscopy. All compounds were found to be enantiotropically liquid crystalline, and the values of melting ($T_m$) and isotropization temperature ($T_i$) as well as enthalpy change (Δ$H_i$) and entropy change for isotropization (Δ$S_i$) decreased in a zig-zag fashion revealing the so-called odd-even effect as x increases. Their mesomorphic properties fall into three categories depending upon x; (a) compounds with x=2 and 4 formed two different mesophases, smectic and cholesteric phases in that order on heating, and vice versa on cooling, (b) compounds with x=3, 7, 8, 10 and 11 reversibly formed only the cholesteric phase, and (c) compounds with x=5, 6, 9 and 12 exhibited only a cholesteric phase on heating, whereas on cooling they formed two different mesophases, cholesteric and smectic phases, sequentially.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.697-708
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• 2016

The term used to describe consumer's valuation of a brand is brand equity. One concept that can be managed and may impact valuation of a prestige brand is "luxuriousness." As the concept of "luxuriousness" appears to be a key factor contributing to the equity of a prestige brand, the purpose of this study was to examine how luxuriousness is related to the brand equity utilizing a model developed by Yoo, Donthu, and Lee (2000). Yoo et al. (2000) identified three dimensions [brand association with awareness (BA), perceived quality (PQ), brand loyalty (BL)] accounted for the equity (OBE) of a brand. We speculated that the five dimensions of luxuriousness (i.e., quality, extended self, hedonism, accessibility, and tradition) would selectively influence the two dimensions of brand equity (BA, PQ) and that loyalty would mediate the relationship between the two dimensions of brand equity (BA, PQ) and overall brand equity. A total of 502 participants aged from 18 to 74 were surveyed in USA. Using AMOS 18, the path analysis was conducted with the maximum-likelihood estimation procedure. The model exhibited a good fit with the data and all hypotheses were supported except one. Quality, accessibility, and hedonism dimensions of luxuriousness affected perceived quality of the equity of a brand. Hedonism and extended self dimensions affected brand association with awareness. However, tradition dimension did not significantly influence brand association with awareness. Overall, this research expands understanding of brand equity as it documents the contributions of luxuriousness, a component that can be controlled by brand managers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.85-96
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• 2000

The study is aimed to analyse social and cultural background and to compare the changes of the cosmetic culture in Korea and the western countries accompanied by the developemnt os the cosmetic industry in the 20th century. The cosmetic culture of Korea has kept on changing adopting the new western style make up, These changes were very closely related with the current sociocultural environments and the developments of the cosmetic industry. The analysis and comparison of Korean cosmetic culture and that of Western countries can be summarized as following: Fistly the cosmetic culture of korea came out after Korean War through the improt of western movies. Secondly at the beginning of accommodation of the western concept of beauty the standards of beauty were confused with that of traditional make up. Thirdly in terms of the history of costumes in the western cosmetic culture the trend was feminine and curve lineal style in the 1910s straight and young style in the 1920s Young elegant curve lineal style and straight-line style replaced among themselves in every 10 years and the cycle became more rapid after the 1970s and there were diversity in the cosmetic culture affected by the postmodernism Fourthly the cosmetic culture of :total fashion" was taken into consideration. Fifthly the cosmetic culture of "total fashion" was taken into consideration. fifthly the make up of Korean and that of western countries are not only a way to express of aesthetic desire for beauty but sanitary management and it is a kind of an expansion of value for management for an inner self. Now is the time to refuse the attitude of accommodation of the western cosmetic culture without any consideration. We need to rediscover our traditional cosmetic culture and cultural distinctiveness and try to mix them with the western cosmetic culture in order to develop our own peculiar style which will be able to Korean design remain in the international stage and grow further.d grow further.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.2 s.67
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• pp.352-367
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• 2007

Viktor and Rolf, despite their short career in the field, has been continuously giving a fresh impact on fashion design by grafting a surrealistic approach to their design works. As a basis of this study, we review the features of surrealistic drawing and the surrealistic features expressed in surrealistic clothes. The purpose of this study is to analyze the surrealistic features detected in the clothes designed by Viktor and Rolf on the basis of the above standard and review and predict the future trend in fashion. As for the research method, we review the previous researches and analyze the drawing works by some representative surrealistic artists, in particular, Schiaparelli's clothes in the 1930s, the clothes of surrealistic trend since 2000, and Viktor & Rolf's clothes. The result of the analysis is as follows. The surrealistic features of Viktor & Rolf clothes can be found in the movement of natural objects, the movement of everyday materials, the movement of clothing items, and visual illusion on clothes. As a whole, the surrealistic features clearly stood out in their clothes. High technology will rapidly change the modern society and we humans are likely to resort to something fresh or different as our emotion and feelings are getting tired and weary. Something that stimulates our feeling and emotion hidden behind our reason or logic will be reflected in design far more than something complex and functional. For this reason, as it reveals human imagination inherently, surrealism is expected to establish itself as a mega trend in the future.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.63-70
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is The results was that consumers who like to the top brand's commodities, had commonly high tendency to and fro its trademark and store allegiance. Furthermore, they have usually bought something following on their inclination what they had purchased as well as the store decoration character and the marketing promotion attribute. The other consumers who prefer to the discount store's merchandises, had also high propensity and the biggest influence on buying something which were those factors; their instance shopping habit, utility-economy trait, follow the fashion character and strong circumspection tendency besides using the mass media Info., personal data and commodities' attribute.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 2000

The purposed of this was (1) to investigate the beliefs, attitudes and buying intention of well-known brand apparel among female college students, and (2) to identify the factors that might distinguish those who have high intention to purchase well-known brand apparel and those who have low intention in terms of individual characteristics and social influence. The data were collected trough questionnaire from random samples of 291 female college students. Statical analysis of factor analysis, χ²-test, t-test and multiple discriminant were performed in analyzing the data. 1. 63% of 291 respondents investigated were identified as having high intention to buy well-known brand apparel. 2. Those who have high intention to buy well-known brand apparel have significantly higher beliefs on well-known brand apparel. 3. Those who have high intention to buy well-known brand apparel have significantly more favorable attitude toward buying well-known brand apparel. 4. Two groups of high intention and low intention to buy well-known brand apparel have significantly different profiles in terms of social influences, values, personality and demographic variables.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.7
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• pp.97-111
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• 2000

The purpose of this study were to segment the hair care cosmetics market according to the benefits sought, to categorize the information sources on the hair care cosmetics, and to characterize the profiles of the segmentized groups of university students. Self-administered questionnaires were distributed to 457 university students in Chonbuk province from Jul. 10 to Jul. 21, 1999. Frequencies and percentages were calculated, and factor analysis, cluster analysis, one-way ANOVA, and $\chi$$^2$-test were used. The results were: 1. University student's benefit variables on hair care cosmetics were classified into special function, fashion, practicality, brand, fragrance, styling, nutritional reinforcement, and economy. And they were segmentized into the feeling pursuit, the multi-benefit pursuit, the practicality pursuit, the benefit unconscious, and the function pursuit. The information sources were classified into marketer-dominated sources, neutral sources and consumer -dominated sources. 2. The feeling pursuit strongly sought for fashion, brand and fragrance pursuit, but considered economy less, chiefly used the marketer-dominated and neutral information sources, and showed much interests in hair care cosmetics, and were consisted of women dominantly. The multi-benefits pursuit sought for various kinds of benefits from hair care cosmetics, depended heavily on various kinds of information sources, were well aware of their hair types and instructions on the hair care cosmetics label, and were consisted of women dominantly. The practicality pursuit highly sought for practicality, but low on the fashion, were not aware of their hair style, haler care, hair health status and hair type, and almost half of them are men. The benefit unconscious showed low concern about, all kinds of benefits and hair care cosmetics, and were consisted of more men than women. The function pursuit highly sought for special function and nutritional reinforcement, mainly depended on the consumer-dominated sources. and showed low concern about their hair style and hair care.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.471-482
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to produce slacks pattern for pregnant women in the mid or second half period of their pregnancy according to the development figure of the body shell from a follow-up measurement. We here would like to produce slacks pattern for pregnant women constructed to fit better with their individual property in their figure and to help maintain the shape and beauty of the lower half of body and would compare it with two manufactured slacks pattern. The results of the study were as follows; 1. As the pregnancy proceeds, the height of natural-waist line went up spontaneously due to the projection of abdominal region, therefore, it was given darts at the front zipper part so that they could maintain a nice figure and to avoid possibility of feeling oppressed. To acquire a slimmer outfit, we made of the slacks-bottom narrower than the width at the knee line, and it worked out. 2. Sensory evaluation for appearance: According to the statistical of the result of 19items on the questionaire, all items showed significant difference(a$\leq$0.01) between the new and A(bunka) B(Kim's pattern) method slacks pattern, with the new pattern having higher scores. The new drafting method proved to be better fitted, to fit the shape of bodies properly and to get a visual effect to look slim.