• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.231-241
• /
• 2009

Embroidery is one of the oldest methods of textiles surface decoration. The masterpiece "Tapisserie de Bayeux," is one of the earliest Medieval embroideries. Embroidery was popular on a broad scale with introduction of what was called Opus Anglicanum("English work") in the 13th century. France had been producing sophisticated embroideries since the 16th century. England was the country producing the greatest quantity of embroideries of the best quality in the 17th century. Until the 17th century, the Church was the most important patron of needlework. Then a shift in emphasis occurred towards the domestic embroidery. English 17th century domestic embroidery reached a high point of technical brilliance and charm. In France, embroidery was produced on hangings as well as costume. 18th century interest in embellishing the domestic environment, embroideries became much more finely detailed than those of the 17th century with the use of finer wool and silk threads. French silk were the finest in the world, and their embroidery was arguably equally fine both in furnishing textiles and on costumes. "Art Needlework" was the major movement in embroidery in the late 19th century. The Royal School of Needlework was founded in 1872, followed by similar institutions around Britan. Splendid fashion embroidery of French haut-couture that was represented to Lesage atelier in 20th century.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.9 no.1
• /
• pp.203-219
• /
• 2007

The education chance and job opportunity of women have increased in the 19th century. Also, women tried to get the right and chance equal to men in this period. Therefore, the population of women participating in the sports have increased. And comfortable and practical pantaloons which men have been wearing were suggested to women. This study investigated the characteristics and change of women's sports wear relating to social change in the 19th century. The results of this study were as follows: 1. According to the social change, women participated in the sports activities with the opportunity equal to men, and the appropriate women's sports wear was needed. 2. Pantaloons which were suggested as the clothing reform movement became popular with the development of sports wear. 3. Simple, effective, comfortable and easy style sports wear was preferred. 4. Women accepted men's sports wear positively. 5. The women's sports wear varied according to the various kinds of sports. 6. The healthful design was preferred and harmful design was excluded. 7. Underwear was improved functionally and simplified. 8. The main materials were flannel, wool, tweed, homespun and serge, and the mail colors were brown, dark blue, gray and black.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.15 no.6
• /
• pp.939-951
• /
• 2007

This paper is about bridegroom's wedding robe, danryung(團領, a kind of official uniform) which can be found in the scenes of wedding ceremonies such as Chohaeng(初行, a ceremony that the bridegroom goes to the bride's house for wedding) and Hoehonrye(回婚禮, a ceremony that celebrates the $60^{th}$ wedding anniversary) in the genre paintings from the $18^{th}$ century to the $19^{th}$ century. In the documents of the $18^{th}$ and the $19^{th}$ centuries containing the wedding information of that period, danryung was described in various red tones ranging from Ja(紫, purple), Gang(絳 crimson), to Yeonhong(軟紅, pale pink). Similarly, red danryung(紅團領) was seen most frequently at the Chohaeng sights of the genre paintings. On the other hand, it was often depicted that the bridegrooms put on various colored danryungs at Hoehonrye. This was because bridegrooms at Hoehonrye wore their full dress according to their official ranks. In the genre paintings of the 18th century, all bridegrooms wore simple danryungs without hungbae(胸背, official insignia panel) except those in Hoehonrye painting where officials used hungbae. On the contrary, hungbae was discovered in the $19^{th}$ century Chohaeng paintings even though it was not precisely painted. This change of the bridegroom's danryung with hungbae attached was related to that of the official uniform system itself, in which black danryung with hungbae was exclusively used for officials. Afterwards it became the basis of the blue danryung of the present day.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.5
• /
• pp.87-101
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to identity the representative flower patterns in the Joseon Dynasty and investigate their chronological transitions. In the early Joseon Dynasty (i.e. 16th century), lotus patterns were very popular. Often lotus patterns were twisted around by ivy-leaves or decorated with treasures pattern in the margin. In the mid Joseon Dynasty (i.e. from 17th to mid 18th century), however, lotus patterns evolved from the typical lotus and ivy pattern and diversified into four types. In the 19th century, lotus pattern almost disappeared from the textiles of everyday dresses and were only found in the textiles of formal dresses or in special cases as in the cover pages of Buddhist scriptures. Poeny patterns was rarely used in textiles of 16th century, presumably because of the huge popularity of the lotus pattern. However, suddenly in the 17th century, Poeny patterns appeared quite frequently. There were 3 types of Poeny patterns. Poeny patterns became more popular over the years and it finally became a primary motive in textiles patterns for 100 years starting in the late 19th century. There were two types of Poeny patterns : one was realistic and true to life even in sizes, the other was more symbolic. Textile patterns combining four kinds of flowers started to appear from the late Koryo Dynasty but Flower patterns representing four seasons with distinct shapes appeared only in the 17th century. They could be categorized into three types. In the late 18th century, Flower patterns representing four seasons no longer appears in textile patterns, presumably due to a new preference for lucky omen over natural motives.

• Korean Journal of Social Welfare
• /
• v.40
• /
• pp.38-67
• /
• 2000

The study aims to understand the traditional context of the social policies in Germany by reviewing the course of transition of the traditional, ancient and/or medieval social policies or ideas of social policy in the country as a typical example of such transitions, which started being passed over to the modern civic society at the end of the medieval age, that is, during the 15th and 16th centuries. One of the reasons why the domestic interest in the German social policy is higher than the actual research achievements and frequently discussed seems explainable because a social security or welfare policy through a social insurance was initiated in Germany for the first time over the world in the 19th century. Notwithstanding, however, that all of us know that such a policy was not made in a day, cases are sometimes visible where focuses are easily drawn only to the periodic and economical phenomena in the 19th century and the strategic option of Preussen. Moreover, no literature which integrates thoroughly or publicly the social policies in Germany has been introduced at home, and some research books or study papers, if any, are inclined to concentrate merely on the social policies after the 19th century. Indeed, there are views, not rare, that a social policy of a national dimension was initiated along with the establishment of capitalism or an industrial society. According to such views, an industrial society or capitalism was begun to shape in the 19th century, and it is accordingly so national to lay our focuses on the social policies after the century. But from the fact that a national social policy existed much farther before the capitalism was established, it can be inferred that such policies were inevitable in all societies where a social issue existed. In the case of our country which experienced a more serious separation from the tradition than other countries by her rapid industrialization and Westernization, it is true that some traditional traces remain still regardless of their actual realization.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.18 no.3
• /
• pp.117-133
• /
• 2014

This thesis aims to investigate the morphologic relationship among the neckline, collar, and hair style, in which the width and height were measured by selecting the representative costumes from 16th to 19th centuries. The pieces of 170 pictures selected by fashion experts were cut in the same condition, with the part of the end of shoulder, head, and chest all placed on the equal level. The products were directly measured by a team of 3 specialists for verification of this study, of which results were calculated into average. The values of output were categorized into the unit of decade and finally into a graph of variation, in which the trend and relationship were evaluated according to the width and height. In 16th century, the width and height of the neckline were inversely proportional to those of hair style, while those of collar were proportional to those of hair style. In 17th century, the width and height of the hair style were proportional to those of neckline and collar. In 18th century, those of the neckline were inversely proportional to the hair style, with no collar found. In 19th century, the width of the neckline and collar were proportional to that of the hair style, while the height of the neckline and collar were inversely proportional to that of the hair style. The analysis of the morphologic relationship among neckline, collar, and hair style resulting from this study revealed that the change of the hair style took place corresponding to those of neckline and collar. Generally, the width of the hair style was found to be more resistant to change, compared to those of neckline and collar that were more susceptible. The height of the neckline was more resistant to change, compared to those of the hair style and collar presenting their frequently fluctuating height. Conclusively, the factor of height rather than that of width showed more dominant proportions, because the various forms of the collar and hair style evolved in terms of the height rather that width, relative to that of the neckline.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.23 no.6
• /
• pp.776-787
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study is to analyze the factors which have formed gender images in men's fashion since the middle of the 19th century. For this purpose, the images of gender in fashion were analyzed and historical studies about gender images in men's fashion from the middle of the 19th century to the present days were done. Historically images of gender expressed in fashion were masculine image feminine image androgynous image and genderless image. Among those images masculine image and genderless image. Among those image masculine image and androgynous image have been the gender images in men's fashion since the middle of the 19th century. In psychoanalytic view point the factors which have formed the gender images are related with sexual pleasure. Libido for looking narcissism and exhibitionism have produced masculine image and androgynous image in men's fashion, In socioeconomic view point power structure between the sexes have built the gender images in fashion. Masculine image and androgynous image came in to being in men's fashion for the purpose of displaying power or expressing opposition to power structure between the sexes, In aesthetic view point the aesthetic sense of each age about sex have constructed the gender images. Modernism had influence on building masculine image and post-modernism have formed androgynous image in men's fashion.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.22 no.1
• /
• pp.11-24
• /
• 2020

This research examines pattern production of 3 men's costumes in the second half of 19th century by 3D reconstruction to reveal technical aspects of mail costumes. The steps are as follows. First, an examination of selective type according to research study. Second, a pattern analysis of 3 historical male tops of 19th century referred to 9 pattern books of the France National Library collection. Third, a categorized type analysis that referred to paintings of the Musée d'Orsay collection. Fourth, a measurement and structure research of 3 historical garments of Fashion and Textile Museum collection. Fifth, the pattern making and fitting by 3D simulation. Research discussed the following subjects and results. First, main type of men's coat can be categorized by frac, redingote, jaquette, and veston. Second, the male costume pattern contained in pattern books was researched along with distinguished silhouettes and structures; X silhouette for frac and redingote, H silhouette for jaquette, and straight box silhouette for veston. Third, based on the analysis of representative type of men's costume per period conducted previous studies, 2 redingotes and a jaquette in the museum were selected and compared to other data such as image materials. Last, the following process was conducted for reconstruction; 'Drawing diagram-Primary pattern drafting by measurement value-3D virtual fitting-Checking the fit-Modification and complement'. We also obtained a 3D virtual reconstruction and a 2D research pattern that suggested a costume pattern by each type along with 3D reconstruction that included insights for male coat techniques of 19th century France.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.29 no.4
• /
• pp.471-487
• /
• 2021

The purpose of this study was to analyze changes to body measurements and silhouettes after wearing an early 19th century women's corset. Two types of corsets were tested. Changes in body size and silhouette were compared based on the levels of tightening strength of the corset. The tightening strength was adjusted in 4 steps by making the length of back fastening string 10-40 cm shorter than the standard. The silhouette was compared with the front silhouette and the side silhouette. The results were as follows. After wearing the experimental 19th century corsets, the chest circumference and front interscye length increased. However, the chest circumference did not increase proportionally to the tightening strength. The underbust circumference, waist circumference, and back interscye length also decreased. The waist width was decreased to create a slim front silhouette. The change in the body silhouette differed depending on the style of the experimental corset. The experimental corset made with the six-piece torso pattern changed the posture so that the shoulders were pulled back and the chest was pushed forward. The experimental corset with the side bodice pattern resulted in the subject's shoulders reclining backward and the chest and abdomen extending forward. The results of this study show that women's body sizes and silhouettes could be changed by wearing the early 19th century corsets, but the changes in body size and silhouette vary depending on the wearer's individual body type or corset style.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.27 no.1
• /
• pp.61-76
• /
• 2023

The purpose of this study was to derive exotic products handled by Bon Marche department store, examine characteristics, and reveal the meaning of exotic taste in the 19th century. The research method is literature research centered on original materials of the time, such as old literature related to department stores, and films, newspapers, magazines, and periodicals as well as books and papers. Commercial catalogs and Agenda-Buvard published by Bon Marché were used as visual materials. Results are as follows. Exotic tastes of products of the Bon Marche department store in the late 19th century showed an oriental style centered on Persia, India, China, and Japan. Products from various regions such as Turkey, Spain, Algeria, Tunisia, England, Italy, and Russia were also accepted. These exotic tastes had the following contributions and meanings. First, they expanded items and product development and activated domestic industry through production of imitations and replicas. Second, before the advent of department stores, foreign items that came to Europe were exclusive properties of a few privileged classes. However, in the late 19th century, as the number of consumers who wanted to have a new status higher than themselves increased, exotic products of the Bon Marche department store became the object of desire for material pursuits toward the upper class rather than sentimental fantasies. Third, exotic tastes gradually spread to the public as production of products imitating foreign products became possible industrially with an easy access to them. From this, it can be seen that department stores were mediators of trends and the epicenter of popularizing exotic tastes.