• Title/Summary/Keyword: 19th century

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A Study of the Costumes and Make-up in the Movie "Anna Karenina"

  • Jung, Jeewon;Kim, Eunsil
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.19 no.3
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    • pp.14-30
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    • 2015
  • The purpose of this study is to establish how main characters' mental states are expressed through costumes and makeup by understanding and analyzing the relationship between the costumes and the makeup in the movie "Anna Karenina" and to compare the 19th century Russian costumes. The study methods are a literature review and an empirical case study. The results are as follows. First, the costumes in "Anna Karenina" are a mixture of late crinoline and early bustle style in general. However, the costumes were altered after the actress's movements and acting were considered. Regarding colors, Anna wears a lavender robe as the virtuous wife, a wine-colored robe for love and death, and a white robe for innocence, thus reflecting her mental states; through the colors, her changes of mental state are expressed. Second, the costumes of Alexei Vronsky, are similar in style and colors to those of mid-late 19th century Russian military uniforms. White, blue and black costume colors are used to describe his situations and emotional changes. Third, Alexei Karenin wears 19th century costumes of dark and achromatic colors without decorations, representing his conservative, authoritative character. However, he showshis rage with a wine and red-colored costume at the end of the movie. Fourth, regarding the makeup in the movie, Anna wears makeup of a soft pink-gold color influenced by 19th century naturalism. Male characters express their characteristics with their beards and hair styles. Vronsky's Hollywood mustaches and wavy blonde hair show his charm, and Karenin's chin curtain beard and bald head reveal his conservative character. The costumes of the three main characters in the movie are not very different from 19th century style in general, but mental states and situations are expressed through accessories, and colors maximize all of the effects. Through this research, it is illustrated that the costumes and makeup in a movie can not only express characters' emotional changes but also show the relationships between the characters in different scenes.

Study on the System and Evolution of Type of Men's Costume on the Pattern Books of France in the 19th Century - Focusing on Overcoat and Top-exterior-and-interior(outside) - (19세기 프랑스 패턴북에 나타난 남성복식체계 및 유형변화 - 겉상의의 외투류 및 중간겉상의를 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Yang-Hee;Ryu, Kyung-Hwa
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.66 no.8
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    • pp.157-172
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    • 2016
  • This study aims to present findings of historical design trends of men's fashion, and the characteristics of changes in the types of overcoats and mid jackets shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. The primary data sources for this study comprised one pattern book, each of the17th and 18th century, and 15 pattern books of the 19th century, all of which are conserved by the French National Library. The study methods are as follows: First, analysis of men's fashion trends and the characteristics of changes by type as shown in French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Second, analysis of the evolution of type of men's overcoats and top-exterior- and-interior (outside) styles shown in French pattern books of the 19th century. As a result, a total of 69 type references were collected from French pattern books of the 17th to 19th centuries. Historically, men's fashion was largely classified into top-exterior, top-exterior-and-interior, top-interior, bottoms and accessories. The two major classifications were as follows: top-exteriors overcoats and robes, And top-exterior-and-interior as top-exterior-and-interior(outside) and top-exterior-and-interior (inside). The study also identified the forms and changes by type. Additionally, this study selected overcoats and top-exterior-and-interior(outside) which fall under typical categories to show the change in the forms of men's fashion of the 19th century. These changes in the types were designated as: continued, faded away, newly appeared and transformed. This study analyzed the time of appearance of the forms by the year of publishing in conjunction with cultural references from previous domestic and international studies. The results showed that the time of changes in the types shown in pattern books did not deviate from the mainstream, which verified their typicality.

Abolition or Maintenance? French and British Policies towards Vietnamese and Malay Traditional Education during the Last Decades of the Nineteenth Century

  • Van, Ly Tuong;Tuan, Hoang Anh
    • SUVANNABHUMI
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    • v.14 no.2
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    • pp.177-206
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    • 2022
  • At different times in the 19th century, the Straits Settlements and Cochinchina were both colonies that the British and the French captured the earliest in their process of invasion of Malaya and Vietnam, respectively. This study examines the transitional stage from the traditional school system to colonial school system in the Straits Settlements and Cochinchina. This could also be considered an experimental stage for building later education systems in their expanded colonies, namely British Malaya and French Indochina, from the closing decades of the 19th century to the middle of the 20th century. This study, exploiting various sources and applying the comparative approach, identifies the factors that affected the different attitudes and choices of policy towards traditional education models of indigenous communities (the Malays and Vietnamese) pursued by the British in the Straits Settlements and the French in Cochinchina.

Introduction of Analytical Method to Britain and British Mathematical Development in Nineteenth Century (19세기 초 영국의 해석적 방식의 도입과 이후 영국 수학의 발전 : 19세기 초 케임브리지 대학의 '해석학회'의 의의와 그 한계)

  • Cho, Su-Nam
    • Journal for History of Mathematics
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    • v.20 no.1
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    • pp.17-32
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    • 2007
  • In this paper, I review the origins, activities, and influences on the future mathematical development of the Analytical Society of Cambridge. The story of the late 18th century Scotland mathematicians and the early 19th century Cambridge mathematician such as Woodhouse, and the Analytical Society's history show that the Analytical Society wasn't a completely new and reformative meeting. This article reveals that the new analytical studies developed characteristically in Britain's specific intellectual and social context of the late 18th century and the early 19th century.

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A study on the Decoration of Women's costume style from the 18th century to the 19th century (18세기부터 19세기까지 여성 복식스타일에 나타난 장식에 관한 연구)

  • Son, Hyo-Rim;Kim, Jeong-Mee
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.20 no.1
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    • pp.29-47
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    • 2018
  • This study aims at looking into women's costume style seen in 18th century to 19th century, and reason out a major decoration, then the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration were analyzed. Research results are same as follows. Firstly, the style of women's costumes in the 18th and 19th century includes the Rococo style, Polonaise style, Neo-classic style, Romantic style and Bustle-style. The main decorations shown in these styles are the gather pleats drape of Fold decoration, the flat embroidery quilting of embroidery decoration, and the ribbon braid fringe button feather and fur of attachment decoration. Secondly, the analyzed results found the formative and aesthetic characteristics of the decoration in the 18th and 19th century women's costumes. Fold decorations appeared as a voluminous property in the form of gown mantua jacket pelisse and dress. Especially, femininity and exaggeration were expressed through greatly inflated skirts. Embroidery decoration appeared as planarity by making patterns of gown mantua jacket stomacher overskirt coat dress shawl and dolman. Especially, exaggeration and extravagance were expressed through embroidered mantua surfaces with peony rose poppy primrose daffodil morning glory tulip leaf and lattice patterns in variety of colored silk threads. Attachment decorations were mixed with elements of heterogeneity added to jackets, coats, gowns, petticoats, stomachers, mantuas, pelisses, mantles, dolmans, capes, overskirts and dresses. In particular, exaggeration and extravagance strongly expressed through the decoration with white fox fur at the hemline, neckline and sleeves of cream colored silk dolman.

'Reorganization of 『BenChaoGangMu』' of medical practitioners in Joseon Dynasty in the 19th-20th centuries (19-20세기 조선 의가들의 '『본초강목』 재구성하기')

  • Oh, Junho
    • The Journal of Korean Medical History
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    • v.26 no.2
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    • pp.1-7
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    • 2013
  • There are three kinds of books written by different authors in different regions in the 19th century. These books include "BonChoYuHam (本草類函)" (1833), "BonChoBuBangPyeonRam (本草附方便覽)" (1855) and "BonChoBang (本草方)" (1860?). However, these books are very similar in terms of content and format. They were written in the format of large medical books and they contained prescriptions made up with 1-2 kinds of herbals depending on diseases. These three books which could not affect each other appear to have these commons. The reason is that these books were newly edited based on Bubang (附方) in "BenChaoGangMu" depending on diseases and "BenChaoWanFangZhenXien" (1712) written by Cai, lie Xian (蔡烈先) was used as the reference. Woodblock printed book of "BenChaoGangMu" viewed by medical practitioners in Joseon Dynasty in the 19th century mostly had "BonChoManBangChimSun" which could be called '"BenChaoGangMu" Bubang index' as the appendix. All authors of three books tried to make 'reorganization of "BenChaoGangMu"' by using "BonChoManBangChimSun" as the important reference. Work of 'reorganization of "BenChaoGangMu"' focusing on symptoms being made in the 19th century was made a few times in the 20th century. "YangMuSinPyeon" and "SuSeBiGyeol" published in 1928 were outcomes of these works in the 20th century. 'Reorganization of "BenChaoGangMu"' being made in 19th-20th centuries showed great interest for "BenChaoGangMu" in the medical community in the late Joseon Dynasty. In addition, the practical scholarship of Joseon Dynasty gave "BenChaoGangMu" the value as the collection of prescriptions rather than the concept of book for herbal medicine. Prescriptions of reorganized "BenChaoGangMu" have been spread out to many books in the late Joseon Dynasty. Thus, the impact of "BenChaoGangMu" on society in the late Joseon Dynasty seems to be much larger than what has been known so far.

A Study of Ginseng Culture within 'Joseonwangjosilok' through Textual Frequency Analysis

  • Mi-Hye Kim
    • CELLMED
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    • v.14 no.2
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    • pp.2.1-2.10
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    • 2024
  • Through big data analysis of the 'Joseonwangjosilok', this study examines the perception of ginseng among the ruling class and its utilization during the Joseon era. It aims to provide foundational data for the development of ginseng into a high-value cultural commodity. The focus of this research, the Joseonwangjosilok, comprises 1,968 volumes in 948 books, spanning a record of 518 years. Data was collected through web crawling on the website of the National Institute of Korean History, followed by frequency analysis of significant words. To assess the interest in ginseng across the reigns of 27 kings during the Joseon era, ginseng frequency records were adjusted based on years in power and the number of articles, creating an interest index for comparative rankings across reigns. Analysis revealed higher interest in ginseng during the reigns of King Jeongjo and King Yeongjo in the 18th century, King Sunjo in the 19th century, King Sejong in the 15th century, King Sukjong in the 17th century, and King Gojong in the 19th century. Examining the temporal emergence and changes in ginseng during the Joseon era, general ginseng types like insam and sansam had the highest frequency in the 15th century. It appears that Korea adeptly utilized ceremonial goods in diplomatic relations with China and Japan, meeting the demand for ginseng from their royal and aristocratic societies. Processed ginseng varieties such as hongsam and posam, along with traded and taxed ginseng, showed peak frequency in the 18th century. This coincided with increased cultivation, allowing a higher supply and fostering the development of ginseng processing technologies like hongsam.

Evolution of Korean Modern Mathematics in late 19th and early 20th century (근대계몽기.일제강점기 수학교육과 해방이후 한국수학계)

  • Lee Sang-Gu;Yang Jeong-Mo;Ham Yoon-Mee
    • Journal for History of Mathematics
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    • v.19 no.3
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    • pp.71-84
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of the study was to investigate the evolution of Korean modern mathematics in late 19th and early 20th century. This article reveals the efforts of incipient Korean mathematicians who had adopted modern mathematics from western countries and the difficulties and struggles they had to go through at that time. At the end of the article, we discussed our current status in international mathematical society.

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Educational policy and curriculums of Korean school mathematics in the late 19th and early 20th century (식민지 수학교육 정책과 19세기 말과 20세기 전반 한국수학 교육과정 연구)

  • Lee, Sang-Gu;Noh, Ji-Hwa;Song, Sung-Yell
    • Communications of Mathematical Education
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    • v.23 no.4
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    • pp.1093-1130
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    • 2009
  • The purpose of this study is to examine obstacles to progress for 20th century Korean mathematics. In 1945, shortly after Korea was liberated from Japan, there were no Korean mathematics Ph.D. holders, less than ten bachelor degree holders, and only one person with a master's degree in mathematics. We investigate the reasons for this. Korea has to overcome such an unforgiving condition and rebuild quality education programs in higher mathematics over the last several decades. These debilitating circumstances in higher mathematics were considerable obstacles in developing a higher level of mathematical research for the mainstream of 20th century world mathematics. We study policy and curriculums of Korean school mathematics in the late 19th and early 20th century, with some educational and socio-political background.

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The Advent of the 19th Century American Mechanical Engineers: A Reinterpretation (19세기 미국 기계 엔지니어 집단의 양성과정의 재해석)

  • Lee, Kwan-Soo
    • Journal of Engineering Education Research
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    • v.14 no.5
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    • pp.37-45
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    • 2011
  • This paper suggests a reinterpretation on Calvert's thesis of the conflict between "shop culture" and "school culture". Robert H. Thurston, who Calvert portraited as the proponent of school culture, was a man from shop culture and the shop culuture's old boy network was essential for Thurston's many achievements as an engineer and educater. This reinterpretation based on the narrowing the scope of the American mechanical engineers in the 19th century into those who shared and inherited the social recognition as the leading machinists from the social upper strata machinist such as the Stevens via machine tool makers of the mid century.