• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.5
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• pp.135-174
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• 2007

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.17 no.11
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• pp.501-514
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• 2017

The 1920s 'cinema-novel' is composed of various media effects based on cinematic imagination, and it is designed to constantly evoke the image of the film during the reading process. This article focuses on 'cinema-novel' as an example of an unprecedented genre experiment. It is because the process of formation and development of this unique genre is filled with contemporary characteristics of the 1920s art that strived to create a content suitable for the modern art medium.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.71-83
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• 2006

This study is about how Art Nouveau and Art Deco clothing are represented in the costume design of film created after those periods and examines the recreation process of visual media. The costume design of The Wings of the Dove tried to reflect the mixture of fashion trends that could be seen during the times. Milly???s clothes seem to focus on recreating the special features of the 1900???s fashion trends more visually while Kate???s clothes are represented in a strong and simple way to emphasize her personality. The costumes in The Great Gatsby, tried to reinvent the 1920???s clothes in a romantic way. Daisy???s and Gatsby???s costumes were based on the aesthetics of the 1920???s clothing. but emphasized the symbolic nature of the characters to give a greater dramatic effect. By analyzing and comparing, it can be seen that, while costume design usually begin with painstaking research into the historical period in which the film is set it is often altered to highlight aspects of the story. such as the theme and the characters, in an effort to create a stronger dramatic effect. Costume design remains one of the most effective means for a director to visually express the personality and desires of a film???s characters. The ideal aim of costume design is to create something new but at the same time, remain true to the period by being grounded in accurate research.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.5
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• pp.43-80
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• 2007

PASKYULA was formed in September, 1923 through the union of artists involved in two art groups: Kim Ki-Jin, Kim Bok-Jin, Yeon Hak-Nyeon who had previously participated in the ToWolHoi, and Park Young-Hi, Lee Sang-Hwa, An Seok-Ju, former members of the BaeckJo. After its founding, the PASKYULA artists had been searching for the social function of art to reform the harsh reality of Minjung and the nation with criticism toward society as well as art world. Their art theory for MinJung could grow relatively ease in relation to changing social and political conditions in the early 1920s. In August, 1925, PASKYULA organized the Korea Artista Proletaria Federatio with the YeomGunSa, and laid the groundwork for Proletariat art movement which was regularized in the late 1920s. From PASKYULA up to the early state of KAPF, the theory of art advocated by Kim Bok-Jin and An Seok-Ju could be summarized as "art for MinJung". At that time, widely ranging discourses on MinJung, however, was spawned in art theory, because many intellectuals-including artists and writers-begun to pay more attention to MinJung, who emerged as one of the social forces after the Samil Independent Movement. Sometimes, MinJung was construed as the target of enlightenment from a negative viewpoint. On the other hand, several intellectuals under the influence of individualism asserted that the discussion itself on MinJung exerted an evil influence on art. In contrast of these cases, the PASKYULA artists including Kim Bok-Jin, An Seok-Ju perceived that MinJung had the potential to change society, and regarded them as "a creator of genuine civilization and art". In the PASKYULA artist's writings, the concept of MinJung was often overlapped with the meaning of the Choson nation suffering under colony. Although their concept of MinJung was transformed gradually into the proletariat as they were under the strong influence of socialism, it did not change that they grasped the realities of the whole Choson Peninsula through the proletarian consciousness. In the early state of PASKYULA, the methodology for social function of art was presented in a twofold manner. First of all, Kim Bok-Jin emphasized on the necessity of education to improve MinJung's way of life through art, and it was embodied by the organization of ToWol Art Workshop and public lecture. Also, he championed "the popularization of art", which was one of methods to distribute art to MinJung. According to the PASKYULA artists, art should be not art for art' sake but art for MinJung. That was why they advocated the convergence of art and MinJung's life. Especially Kim Bok-Jin affirmed a link between art and industry because he considered industry the field inextricably linked with MinJung's life. In this context, his idea could be read as the generalization and equalization within the framework of possession. Kim Bok-Jin thought that the social ramifications of capitalism deprived MinJung of their right to enjoy art, and emphasized the artist' social role to return the right to them. That is, the even distribution of art was mainly discussed than the contents of art in the half of 1920s. By 1925, the contents of art itself became an issue in the PASKYULA art theory, and it was based in realism. Kim Bok-Jin and An Seok-Ju insisted that art should be reflection of real life. At that time, realism acquired the representation of MinJung and the nation's realities not realistic style. In fact, the various Western art styles including Futurism, Constructivism, Cubism etc. were exploited in the PASKYULA's visual images. Western art, target of criticism on theory, was selectively adopted in the works which were produced by Kim Bok-Jin and An Seok-Ju. Kim Bok-Jin's MoonYeUnDong cover design was conceived of as the example in which Western art was adopted with it's ideology under the influence of MAVO, while Western art shown in An Seok-Ju's illustrations served as a decorative function in many cases. Especially, An Seok-Ju attempted the various styles of Western art simultaneously, which may be seen as representing that PASKYULA did not have a firm ideology for their style. Also, it can be read as showing his hasty zeal to overcome Western art rapidly. The wish to establish "art for MinJung" as soon as possible was accompanied with the will to jump over the all steps of Western art though it was superficial. This aspiration of PASKYULA was expressed through the mass media, which had the potential for communicating to MinJung. At this point, there was a significant disparity between PASKYULA and another art groups in the first half of 1920s. However, the PASKYULA's method on the basis of the mass media could not but have a certain limitation because of the medium's properties. Nevertheless, PASKYULA' attempts may be considered to be valuable in sense that they expended the boundaries of Korean modern art into the commercial art questioning the matter of the distribution for art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.19-30
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• 1984

There is a symbolic term which has realized custom of an era and has eome into fashion since the middle of 1920's. That is Garconne. This paper studied the image and costume of Garconne expressed in literary works, the form of art made it to come into being, and costume of a group of women played a role of pioneers of Garconne. Garconne attempted simple, casual, and mannish costume instead of usual elegance. It was the boiysh style($\`{a}$, la Garconne) which did not stress on the bust and waist like chanel suits used wool jersey by a designer, Chanel ana short skirts of low waist line. They got short haircut and wore low heel shoes. Garconne meant women who were free of convention, were familiar with love a d profession, and lived for themselves in the same manner of young men. They yieled new mode of 1920's. Though their lives were only a period, they manifested the symbol of the period though their figure and designation was not disappeared at the age but was settled as a mark of fixed image. There were several reasons why the Garconne was born. Rapid changes in politics, economics, and society in Europe were occurred from the First World War to 1920 and the trend of custom and art was a turning point. Especially, the entry of women into the society and the mode of Art Deco influenced it directly. The role of a pioneer of Garconne was appeared from the French Revolution. As Merveilleuse, Lionne, and Bloomers wore peculiar clothings ana had life style being irrelevant to tradition, they were talked about. They informed in advance the appearance of new women who were different from romantic ladies and were more modern and active. The pioneer design of Paul Poiret which were over whelming throughout a period and functional design of Chanel were increasingly accelerated.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• no.17
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• pp.136-142
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• 1998

In early 20th Century Neo Art Movement and Fuctionalim in Europe effected to create new tendency as Modern Design and technical development through Industrial Revolution offered technical background to realize Modern Design. All these things were basic to establish 1920s and the concept as Modern Design had been established at this time in field of Architecture and design. Thubular-steel Chair which used industrial material based on social andtechnical circumstance came out as an epochal event and which symbolize Modern Design have enlarged their concept with 1920s European Dwelling Space. According to each tendency arrange characteristics as classifying on the society-cultural spatial plastic technical sides multiple dwelling house and tubular-steel chair for low income brackets have characteristic of (1) the pursuit of social functionalism design for public(socity-cultural characteristics) (2) the pursuit of simplicity based on functionalism (plastic charcteristics) (3) the standardization for mass production (technical characteristc). In conclusion the characteristics of tubular-steel chair which correspond with dwelling space in 1920's is presented a type for relation between furniture and space which correspond with formating in the formative period of Modern-design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.2
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• pp.318-335
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• 2010

This study is to enhance the competitiveness of the domestic cosmetic industry and provide basic materials needed for a design idea by analyzing perfume bottles designed by Rene Lalique. The methods of this study are documentary research and demonstrative research. The documentary research considered the theoretical background with a focus on related domestic and international literature, previous research, and Internet materials. The demonstrative research extracted photo materials of the bottle designs of Lalique from domestic and international web sites along with literature that classified them into shapes, colors, materials, and patterns that analyzed the general characteristics and chronologic changes. The results of this study are as follows. The curve-oriented shape was common and multi-colors were used more frequently than a single color in the 1910's. Colorless-transparent glass and a flower patterns were used frequently for materials and patterns, respectively. Lalique reflects this style in his bottle designs because the Art Nouveau effect in the 1910's. In the 1920's, curved and straight shapes had a similar percentage. The use of multi-colors and one type of glass bottle increased versus the 1910's. Similar to the 1910's, a flower pattern was used most frequently. This suggests that Lalique was influenced by the established Art Nouveau and was also interested in the Art Deco style, In the 1930's, an organic curved shape was common. Unlike the 1910's and 1920's, a single color was more common than multi-colors. The one type of glass bottle and a geometric pattern were common for materials and patterns, respectively. The Art Deco style was reflected in the bottle design of Lalique in the 1930's.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.113-129
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to discover the changes and characteristis of modern knitwears from the 1920's to the 1990's. The result of this study is as follows: The popular knitwears in the 1920's had a simple boxy-line and modern unisex image with a sporty look. The knitwears in the 1930's-1950's had seen more short, feminine detail and texture, fit silhouette with syntheyic fibers. In the 1960's, the knitwears of sporty look and unisex style was popularized by young peaples, and crochet with handkniting by the fiber artists was popularized. In the 1970's-80's, the layered looks and unisex styles of knitwears were popularized by influence of a ecology mood and a woman movemant. And various patterns was developed with the computer machine. The items of outer knitwear was increased by the use of fancy yarns and the knitwears as the total fashion was popularized. In the 1990s, the knitwears had a very forceful characteristics by the mixed style and the technique of design developed into the post-modernism. The key words of the character of the modern knitwears are funtional pursuit, unisex, high value, hightechnique, art. By the change of the life style and the develope of technical innovation, the knitwears will be the key item to leading the fashion in the 21th.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Landscape Architecture
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• v.27 no.5
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• pp.150-160
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• 2000

The french modernist garden of the 1920-30s, significant when studying the history of gardens, has been disregarded in landscape architecture studies. This study aims to review and examine the main characteristics of the French modernist garden in relation to Cubism. In addition this study seeks to recover an unnoticed phase from landscape architecture history and lies in a same thread with studies on the theory of Modernism in landscape architecture. The french modernist garden is closely connected with Cubism, as Cubist garden is a popular synonym for the French modernist garden. used simplified and geometrical forms like Cubist painters. In spacial composition, the French modernist garden offered images of various views in one space, much like the Cubist paintings which showed various aspects of an object simultaneously on the canvas. In the French modernist garden, gorgeous colors and various textures were emphasized, much like the synthetic Cubism. Moreover, in the history of landscape architecture, the state of the French modernist garden which tried to change the traditional gardens into a space more suited to the new life style, is similar to that of Cubism as an art movement in the history of art of the early 20th century.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.550-558
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• 2010

Russian Constructivism, which took the lead in the Russian trend of art until the late 1920's, was influenced by European Cubism and Futurism. Breaking away from the previous realistic tendency, Russian Constructivism, to meet the ideology of the revolution, insisted the "Art into Street" and the "Art in Industry" with its abstract and geometric design. Russian Constructivism effected paintings of mid 1920's, as well as Industrial design and costume design. This operated remarkable changes in Russian form of costume and textile area. An unusual situation like revolution had provided the social justification to develop a new costume design not for the special class of people, but for the general public. In this atmosphere, the plan of clothing mass production began to progress. Although the Russian Constructivism costume of arts shows the similarity in the trend of fashion and the physical forms of those days, its fundamental idea in manufacturing costumes was 'to create costumes to be possible to mass-produce and to be wearable to anyone regardless of the social class'. Therefore, Constructivism costume of arts pursued dynamism and geometric form through non-objective design that has broken away from the handcrafted and traditional standards of the past. These distinct characteristics served as a momentum to seek costume design based on productivity and functionality.