• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.2
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• pp.150-162
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• 2014

This study examined the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong(1753~1810) in Jecheon which were excavated in 2012. Lady Sim died at the age of 57 and the excavated relics belonged to the 18th and 19th centuries. The excavated relics consisted of 9 pieces of three-kind-clothes. They showed various qualities such as Plain-Silk, Plaited-Silk, Patterned Twill, Plain Twill, Plain Satin, and Satin Damask. Through comparing them with the other excavated clothes of the 18th and 19th centuries, we can comprehend the periodical changes of the excavated Jegori and Yeomo (the hat for a dead woman). The excavated Jegori shows the difference of length and form from the other Jegori of the 18th century. The total length of the excavated Jegori ranged from 24 cm to 25 cm, which is 10 cm shorter than that of the other Jegori of the 18th century. The excavated hat for a dead woman shows the changes of the form and needlework. The form of a rectangular cover was changed into that of a round shape. In regards to the sewing composition, the way of inserting the cover into Mosin(the body of the hat for a dead woman) was replaced by that of connecting the cover into Mosin. The excavated clothes show three kinds of textile fabrics: plain silk fabrics and plaited silk, plain twill and four-leaf-patterned twill, eight-leaf-plain satin of life-lettered textile and five-leaf satin damask, and plain satin. Especially, the combination of eight-leaf satin and four-leaf twill with mixed textile is considered as a fabric of high quality. The excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong showed a periodical change which was different from the clothes of the 18th century in terms of the formal composition of Jegori and Yeomo. Regarding Women's Jegori a short length and slim and long sleeves are changed into short and tight Jegori, which signaled the specific change of Jegori aesthetics. The significance of the excavated clothes of Lady Sim Cheongsong lies in its role as the bases for understanding the couture culture of the 19th century.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.459-470
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• 2018

Cellulose nitrates were used for folklore artifacts(ornamental beads and pipes in hatstrings, frames of eyeglasses, ornamental eyeglass cases, headband ornaments, and jeogori buttons) between the 19th and 20th centuries; however, they are susceptible to cracking, crazing, embrittlement, and crumbling due to deterioration. To consolidate and adhere deteriorated cellulose nitrate folklore artifacts, water-soluble acrylic emulsion adhesives were investigated. For consolidation, Plextol D 498, which has the lowest viscosity in low concentrations, was used. In adhesive films whose glass transition temperature(Tg) is lower than room temperature, the tensile stress and modulus decreased and the strain increased; therefore, the flexibility was high. The Plextol D 498 and Plextol D 498 and Dispersion K 52 films maintained their adhesiveness and flexibility after artificial-sunlight-accelerated ageing, and Plextol D 498 and Dispersion K 52 films hardly caused yellowing. Plextol D 498 was the most stable for accelerating ageing. A low concentration of Plextol D 498 emulsion resulted in the best permeability on the surface of cellulose nitrate, compared with other acrylic emulsions. To prevent ornamental hatstrings from cracking, crazing, embrittlement, and crumbling, a Plextol D 498 emulsion was used. After applying low concentrations(1%, 3%) of the emulsion to consolidate the fragments and high concentration to adhere the fragments, the ornamental hatstrings were protected from crumbling by deterioration, and their fragments were well-adhered. To preserve it from deterioration by oxygen and humidity, the treated ornament was sealed with an oxygen-barrier film using a low-humidity oxygen scavenger.