• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.744-757
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• 2021

This study aims to develop a bodice and a jacket in 3D of the late 19th to early 20th based on the pattern drafting book of Gordon S. S., which contains body measurement method and pattern drafting system. The findings of this research are as follows. First, female tops of the late 19th to early 20th century are categorized as outer, jacket, vest, and bodice. Of these, this study highlights the jacket, which can be divided into 4 types: 4 kinds of basic jacket, 2 kinds of riding jacket, bolero jacket, and newmarket jacket. Second, by referring to Gordon's pattern drafting system and book, a bodice was developed in 3D format based on the adherence to the following steps: analysis of the pattern drafting system, pattern drafting, 3D virtual simulation, 3D virtual fitting analysis, and the pattern correction. A bodice pattern corrected by 3D virtual clothing simulation results was proposed. Last, a basic sleeve and collar pattern for a basic jacket was drafted, which was followed by the correction and transformation of the bodice pattern. The jacket developed shows great fit except for the issues at the armhole line and shoulder, which were caused by the unique shape of the sleeves(big sleeve head) of the time. The study attempted to develop the past costumes in 3D, providing the basis for interdisciplinary research in the field of fashion history field and suggesting a new approach for the virtual restoration of costumes. Future studies should target to 3D virtual simulation in accordance to the 3D avatar pose in the developed virtual costume.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.23-31
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• 2007

This study was conducted to reproduce the four-piece bodice pattern of a ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women in their twenties with a standard body type and average size. Eighteen four-piece bodice patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. The front width of the bodice was wider than the back width. The front bust line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back bust line, the side back bust line and the under-arm gore bust line. The front waist line of the bodice was wider than the sum of the back waist line, the side back waist line and the under-arm gore waist line. The angles of the two waist darts of the bodice were very big but the legs of the dart were too short. The center front line of the bodice was oblique and curved. The angle of the back shoulder line of the bodice was bigger than the angle of front shoulder line. The shoulder seam line of the bodice was not placed on the top of the shoulder but behind the shoulder. The pattern characteristics of the bodice created a woman's silhouette that emphasized the volume of the bust, a chicken breast and a slim waist. The study pattern which had the characteristics of the four-piece bodice of the 1890's was designed like for Korean women in their twenties who have a standard body type and an average size through modifications based on the evaluation of two dressing occasions. The study pattern was evaluated to have the silhouette of the 1890's and to fit Korean women.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.1205-1220
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to verify the change of body posture by putting on the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat. This study analyzed the female somatotype which puts on upper garments of Victorian era with using 3D body scan technology. Two sets of $19^{th}$ century women's bodice and waistcoat patterns were developed with the $19^{th}$ century model size and those patterns were used for making the experimental garments. The fit of experimental garments was evaluated by the degree of change with posture and waist measurements. Three women with the same waist girth measurements with the model size were participated to the fitting test. The postural change was measured from cross-sectional body diagrams. The result of this study showed that the waist measurement of the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice and waistcoat pattern was smaller than the waist girth measurement. These garments compressed the midriff of the body and it made women's distinct body silhouette. The waist girth measurement of 1876 bodice pattern was 9.2cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 5.0~6.1cm after wearing the 1876 bodice garment. The waist girth measurement of 1880 waistcoat pattern was 7.1cm smaller than presented model size. The subjects' waist girth measurements were shortened by 2.7~3.7cm after wearing the 1880 waistcoat garment. The back side parts of their waist were compressed and their postures were changed. The neck and shoulders were moved forward after wearing the experimental garments. These results showed that body posture could be changed to "S" shape silhouette as wearing the late $19^{th}$ century English women's bodice or waistcoat.