• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.5
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• pp.1102-1118
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate the underwear design shown in historical dramas set in Europe between the $16^{th}$ and the $18^{th}$ century, woman's bodies were highly restricted, in order to analyze the symbolism of the movie costume and provide basic data for the future education of the department of movie costume design. For a study method, literature relating to movie costumes and underwear as well as captured images from 29 historical dramas set in Europe between the $16^{th}$ and the $18^{th}$ century was reviewed. Among them, data from 17 movies where underwear and crinoline were observed was analyzed. Historical movies, set in the $18^{th}$ century Europe exposed underwear more frequently and decisively than movies set in the $16^{th}$ and $17^{th}$ centuries. For the figure wearing underwear, its expression effect was maximized by the implication function of costumes. Underwear can easily express the time and space background and symbolize the character's social and economic position, attitudes, and values. In addition, the exposure of underwear can reveal characters' internal expressions, such as mental status, taste, temper, intention, mood, time and space display. The result of observing the underwear shown in movies reveals that underwear plays a subjective role in expressing ideal femininity as a woman of a particular age, modesty, social position symbolism and eroticism that depended on the situation. It is expected that the study will provide an opportunity to reconsider the function of underwear, which is different from the meaning of costume history, and its role as a means of communication by considering the change of underwear by age.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.55 no.6 s.96
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• pp.125-140
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to define the special characteristics of the neoclassic style in eighteenth to nineteenth century fashion. Researching into philosophy and aesthetics in eighteenth to nineteenth century, the characteristics of the neoclassic style in fashion is considered the clarity of form, the utility of function, and the sensuality combined with body. The results of this study are as follows: The clarify of form is found in geometric form based on anatomical truth of the human body in relation with rational and scientific thoughts. The utility of function is found in simple and suitable construction considering purely practical purpose of dresses. The sensuality combined with body is found in natural silhouette dress alluding naked body in connection with Rousseau' naturalism. Understanding aesthetic value of the neoclassic style will help to develop fashion designs associated with neoclassical forms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.8
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• pp.86-99
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• 2010

This study considered the characteristics and use of the jokduri during the 18th century, which was shown in Ijae-nan-go written by Yoon-Seok Hwang. In Ijae-nan-go, not only the origin of the jokduri, but also its colors, materials, sizes, and construction methods are recorded, in detail. The Jokdori is assumed to have been influenced by costumes of China. The 18th century jokduri is mainly made up of black satin, and is composed of eight pieces of cloth. This looks similar to a contemporary jokduri, but the 18th century jokduri is bigger. At court during the 18th century, women decorated their hair styles higher by using the jokduri. Not only did the jokduri fix the topknot at the top of a woman's hair by wrapping the topknot, but also it raised the height of the topknot. This is different from the generally known method of wearing jokduri. Therefore, this demonstrates that there have been changes in the role and use of the jokduri over time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.6
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• pp.89-107
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• 2000

Underwear has undertaken the auxiliary role of outwear also. Thus, as outwear has changed forming the characteristic mode in every period, underwear has changed endlessly, so that it may match the form and function of outwear, in accordance with the stream of period. In this study, this researcher examined hoop and petticoat which were used for widening the skirt which is female clothes with diverse names in every period. under one name which is farthingale, centering around the West and korea, from 16th century to 20th century(the first term). In addition, it examined by comparison the relevancy between to the history and change factor of underwear which was used for swelling the skirt in Korean clothes. The result to have studied on the history and change factor about the farthingale of West and Korea is as follows: This study found that the silhouette of women's clothing has a strong relationship with underwear. Also The result to compare the underskirt of the West with that of Korea is as follows : They has other character, but in 18th century, being compared the underskirt of the West with that of Korea, for the swelling of skirt, this study found that they had something in common with the underskirt of the West and Korea.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.7
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• pp.111-121
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• 2001

The purpose of this study was to investigate the historical changes, and analyze functions and characteristics of western men's underclothes in the second half of the 20C. This study will examine how the social backgrounds influenced on the changes of the functions of men's underclothes and how the changes of outer garments were reflected on underclothes in the second half of the 20C. In the early, the second half of the 20C, underwears of functions was continued to cleanliness and comforts. In the later of the 20C, underwears came to be seen as expressing male sexual power when it became body-conscious. By the changes of outer garments. underclothes changed the same size of proportion. In the late 1960's, the turtleneck type of shirts were copied by outer garments, and we understand that underwear can influence on outer garments. The ruffles of the 18th century reappeared in the 1960's. This reactionism of the late 20C tells us about the relation between social environments and underwear. So the social backgrounds influenced on the formativeness of men's underclothes. We understand that underwear can influence on outer garments and outer garments can influence on underwear, too. The important characteristics of the second half of the 20C were the remarkable resemblance of some styles to those of the Past and the occasional blurring of the distinction between underwear and outerwear.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.6
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• pp.112-126
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• 2012

The style of a dress allows important characterization of an era since they reflect contemporary politics, society, culture and arts. Within a same category, period costumes develop into styles that reflect specific consciousness. The research method and the scope of the study are as follows: the research adopts a historical study method and a comparative research from a microscopic point. The scope includes resistance costumes that proceed with sans-culotte that comprises of the resistance party during the 18th French Revolution (1783-1799), and also a Hippy style which was popularized during the 1960s and 1970s for its anti-war movement. We researched both similarities and differences of design factors reflecting resisting consciousness in costumes that affected costume characteristics related to their socio-cultural background. Sans-culotte and the Hippie style reflect a common denominator in anti-social resisting customs. First, they show common characteristics that combine fashion trends of resistant element and design features. Second, they have common features which are the characteristics of deviation. On the other hand, these two customs also present a discriminative denominator in anti-social resisting customs. In the case of sans-culotte, they tend to symbolize confrontation by dividing into two equal parts: the old and new mode. Sans-culotte confronts the conventional mode and promotes practical costume styles based on justice standpoints. First, hippies pursue an exposition of individual emotions that disclose internal meanings of love and desire. Second, they focus on subjective characteristics and chase after masteries and pleasures by expressing intensity. Third, it extends and develops folk costumes from many countries that reveal ethnic trends. Therefore, this research compares and contrasts different changes in the fashions of revolutionary periods, and aims to recognize the relationship between design and costume characteristics, thus contributing to the predictions of future changes in fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.107
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• pp.68-84
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• 2006

The aim of this study is to examine a structure of trousers worn by males in the western world during the 17th and 18th centuries in order to understand the characteristics of evolution in construction. it mainly examined engravings from these era because they provided me fine and detailed portrayals of what it needed to observe. Then, it classified them into models according to each era. it supplemented a flaw of depending on single type of studying material by examining other types of historical materials such as historical paintings and documents for comparative analysis of materials and decorations and previous studies on preserved historical documents to observe the examples of structures of trousers. Secondly, it studied both historical documents and previous studies on the trousers patterns used back in those days, analyzed the characteristics of each designing method by actually draping these patterns, and observed the differences in these completed patterns to understand the characteristics of changes in fashion design skill. As for the changes in length, these patterns show only a slight difference around above and below the knee line. However, the widths of waist, hip, girth and hem were significantly altered over the years to reduce wrinkles and the cutting lines became more refined to make the clothes fit to the body. As a result, a simple but fine patterning technique was born. In particular, new methods in cutting and sewing were invented for detailed parts such as waist, pocket, front and slit.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.5 s.114
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• pp.112-122
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• 2007

This study reviewed the costume mainly on the Joseon Giroyondo(耆老宴圖) between 17th 18th Century. In Joseon Dynasty, they produced paintings to commemorate the meeting of Girohwe(耆老會), namely Giroyon(耆老宴); this painting is Giroyondo. The feature of Giroyon depended on political purpose and social phenomenon. Therefore, the composition of figures in Giroyondo and their costume were seen differently. By its character, Giroyondo was classified into official one from Giroso(耆老所), private one arranged by the participants and Court Giroyon(宮中腸宴圖). People figured in Giroyondo are roughly divided into costume in Girosin(耆老臣) officials and minor officials. Girosin officials wore Hongdalyong(紅團領) and Samo(紗帽) in official Giroyondo while they wore Hungnib(黑笠.) and Jingnyong(直領) in private Giroyondo. In Court Giroyon, which was for classy and formal Court event, they wore Dalyong(團領) and Samo but in colors of blue and green. Minor officials were observed in two categories; those who wore Samo and Gakdae(角帶), and those in Dugeon(頭巾). However, they were not showed up in private Giroyondo.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.8
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• pp.123-135
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• 2002

The purposes of this study were to observe the influences of Salon culture on fashion, and to understand of 17th-l8th century's costume from a different point of view. The literatures about Salons and costume in 17th-l8th century were considered for this study Salon culture had influenced on women's and men's fashion from 17th 18th century as results. The influences of salon culture on fashion were as follows; At first, it caused radical feminism for women's dress. Women for this period chose their dress to maximize their breast and tight their waist radically to express their beauty. Women were realized as sexual being for the period, then, this caused feminism. The second influence was the Andorgynous of men's dress. Men maximized beautiful decoration, body line on their dress and showed feminine dress style. which caused Andorgynous of men's dress as men and women mutually created new beauty effect. Salon had influences on the birth of new feminine culture and fashion, supplying individual self-control and freedom to women not as aesthetic objects.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.8
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• pp.37-48
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• 2009

This paper summarized the forming, structure and management of the Ui-Jeon(衣廛) in Joseon Dynasty, considered the change of the commercial power of the Ui-Jeon in the $18{\sim}19th$ centuries. The Ui-Jeon was established the early period of the Joseon Dynasty. The Ui-Jeon merchants organized the association named Dojung(都中) and were in business with facilities like Haenrang(行廊) and Doga(都家). The Ui-Jeon was mid-sized Si-Jeon, the licensed shop(市廛). The Ui-Jeon held the monopoly of clothes. The Ui-Jeon merchants sold and bought old clothes, sold new clothes, lent the wedding dress for a bridegroom. The Ui-Jeon paid taxes and supplied clothes, goods and sewing labor for the marriage, funeral ceremonies of the royal family. The commercial power of the Ui-Jeon was threatened by free merchants(私商) named old clothes mercants(破衣商). Finally the Ui-Jeon merchants lost the exclusive right to clothes in 1791. After that, the Ui-Jeon merchanrs appealed to the government to give them the monopoly. The Ui-Jeon merchants regained the sole right to sell Ju-ui(紬衣), one item only, but it was temporary. Separately The Ui-Jeon merchants acquired the rights to collect the sub-taxes(分稅) from free merchants.