• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.385-399
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• 2017

This study will broaden the application of doll costume product with historical characteristics and the image of unlined cheollik in the $17^{th}$ century period of transition during the Joseon Dynasty. Historical design sources were extracted from old documents and precedent studies. Unlined cheollik of Shin Gyeong-yu, meritorious retainer, were selected as main reference-relic because of various fabric, preserved conditions and definite shape. 'Baby doll' was selected as main model because of consumer preferences and awareness. Design sources from unlined cheollik in the early $17^{th}$ century were about a 1:2 ratio of upper and under parts, removable separated doori-somae, knife-shaped collar (outside), projected square collar (inside), long pleats line, side slit, traditional flat fell seam sewing. Trapezoidal side line, round waistline, and thin fabric were applied in designs because of toddler-body of doll model. Three designs were produced in step 1: Cheollik A focusing on the historical remake (traditional type), Cheollik B with belt and side slit (crossover type), and Cheollik C with back- opening (modern type). In step 2, interview with fashion major student was conducted to increase the utility of designs. As a result, modern trend sources (frill, velcro, round armhole line, slope of sleeves, and floral pattern) were reflected in Cheollik B, C. Finally, three doll cheollik and cheollik-styled doll apron sample were produced. Various versions must be suggested in the study of doll costume products with traditional sources that balance historical characteristics and practicality to improve customer satisfaction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.6
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• pp.140-155
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• 2009

This study tries to find out the special twine technique of flat string and refers to historical documents, records, artifacts of excavated articles, and real materials. In Japan weaved cloth is called Jomul or Jonue and these methods were brought to Japan from Korea during Aska Period(645${\sim}$710) and Nara Period(710${\sim}$794). Among those knot methods, the 1/1 knot was written as a Shillajo on a documentary record at Heian Period, Engisik, and Samdaesillok which is a historic document from King Saiya to King Gowooko(858${\sim}$887). Also 2/2 knot weaving was recorded as Goryeojo that the technique originated for a long time in Japan. During the Joseon Dynasty, Gunmok was written as Dahoi, and Gwangdahoe, which means wide and flat Gunmok, was the name of Dae(Belt). The frame for the twine Gwangdahoe is no longer in Korea, but only can be found in Japan as a Goraiwoochi loom for Shillajo and Goryeojo from Korea. There are currently artifacts by the techniques of Shillajo and Goryeojo that were excavated in 15${\sim}$17C in Korea. Therefore this study was looked into the artifacts from 6${\sim}$8C in $Sh{\"{O}}so$-in, and the features of Dae (Belt) weaved by Shillajo and Goryeojo case method. Gwangdahoe excavated artifacts in the mid Jeosun Dynasty was restored by the process of Goryeojo weaving method.

• Publications of The Korean Astronomical Society
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• v.37 no.3
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• pp.59-79
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• 2022

We investigated the records of astronomical phenomena in the Hyeonjong-Donggung-Ilgi written by the educational office for a crown prince, Sigang-won, during the time of a crown prince of the king Hyeonjong (i.e., from 1649 to 1659). Of the total of 3,625 days, 3,044 astronomical accounts were compiled from astronomical records of 2,003 days. We classified these astronomical accounts into 16 items, grouped into five categories, and statistically analyzed each group. In our analysis, the accounts for atmos-pheric optical phenomena equates to 57.9% of the total, and for celestial phenomena visible during the daytime the percentage is 17.3%. The records related to the approach between two objects such as planets, moon, and stars account for 3.3%, and solar or lunar eclipses take up 0.6%. The ratio of accounts regarding meteor, comet, and fire light (火光) stand at 13.8%, 0.30%, and 6.8%, respectively. Sunny days account for 71.1% of all days per year during this period. We determined that the distribution of the fire light by month is similar to that of the solar halo. We also found that the astronomical records from the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty correspond to only 30% of those of the Hyeonjong-Donggung-Ilgi for the same period. In particular, the phenomena of celestial objects occurring outside the atmosphere are transmitted to the Annals of the Joseon Dynasty in a higher proportion than the phenomena inside the air. It is therefore necessary to use a historical diary like a Donggung-Ilgi to interpret the phenomena in the air such as atmospheric optical events, meteor, and fire light.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.31-49
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• 2010

This study intends to look into management and architectural space composition of Honjeon during the reign of Sukjong. Also it purposes to inspect how to affect management of the Royal Palace. The study is based on each Binjeon Honjeon Dogam Eugwe between late 17C and 18C. And the data on management of the Royal Palace is based on Joseonwangjosillok and Seungjeongwon Ilgi. Because Sukjong used ChangDeokgung and GyeongDeokgung alternately, Honjeon located at Munjeongjeon of ChangGyeonggung during Sukjong stayed at ChangDeokgung and located at Gyesangdang of GyeongDeokgung during Sukjong stayed at GyeongDeokgung. At that time, often movement of the King modified procedure of moving Honjeon. Between the first year of Hyenjong and the 9th year of Sukjong, architectural space of Honjeon was settled. In 1659, territory of Jeongjeon was settled. Also between 1674 and 1684, Goklimcheong was built. Construction of Goklimcheong is noticeable character. As Munjeongjeon was being used as Honjeon continually, it was recognized as Honjeon. Due to its long utilization as Honjeon, several gonvernment offices were transferred. Also it influenced utilization of Myeongjeongjeon.

• Korean Journal of Oriental Medicine
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.11-20
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• 2007

Haedae(海帶, haidai) is representative herb from seaweeds, but its origin is still confusing. Thus we analyzed its origin on the basis of classics of oriental medicine. The scientific name of Haedae corresponds to Zostera marina, according to the folkloric use. But, it is Laminaria japonica, according to its habitat, morphological feature, and the korean name on the medical books in Joseon since 17c. In the remote past, it seemed that two groups were segragated by the name of Zostera marina Haedae and Laminaria japonica Haedae. However, it is thought that this two trends were mixed up when medical knowledge was compiled in Song Dynasty era. Documental support inclined to Laminaria japonica, but it is too early to conclude that Laminaria japonica is the Haedae. To prove this hypothesis, further study is required to investige whether Laminaria japonica or Zostera marina has mentioned efficacies of Haedae used for the treatment of wen, San syndromes, edema, scrofula, etc. And we have need of research that solve the origin problem of Gonpo(Laminariae thallus) on the assumption that Laminaria japonica is Haedae.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.67-75
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• 2007

The purpose of this research is to conserve of golden decoration(Jikgeumdan) of Chima(skirt) and Jeogori(Korean jacket) of the costumes excavated from Hangju Gi' tomb(17th Century) of Joseon dynasty$(1392{\sim}1910)$ and to focus on the development of conservation skill to prevent flakings of gold leaves in gilt paper strips. Up to the present, in case of golden decorations of costumes excavated from tombs of Joseon dynasty, some of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of costumes were flaked away by deterioration of adhesives in tombs. However, most of gold leaves were flaked away and totally lost by wet cleaning for eliminating contaminants after excavation. In order to prevent flaking, preliminary experiments for re-adhesion of gold leaves have been carried out. Firstly, simulation was performed using gold leaf which was available in the market. Adhesives used in this research were water-soluble adhesives(hide glue(cow, rabbit), glue made from air bladders of sciaenoid fish and Primal AC-3444 of acrylic emulsion) and solvent-soluble adhesives(acrylic adhesive Paraloid B-67 and B-72). Because of difficulty in wetting and spreading of adhesive solutions into the interface between gold leaf and Korean paper, water-soluble adhesives were not proper for adhesion of gold leaf and Korean paper. Solvent-soluble adhesives were easily infiltrated into interface between gold leaf and Korean paper and the adhesive force was also satisfied. From this result, the researchers chose more flexible Paraloid B-72$(Tg\;40^{\circ}C)$ 1% solution than Paraloid B-67$(Tg\;50^{\circ}C)$ for adhesion of gold leaf and Korean paper. Secondly, using Paraloid B-72 1% solution, the estimations of re-adhesions of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of Jeogori were carried out. When Paraloid B-72 1% solution was injected three times into the interface between gold leaf and Korean paper, the re-adhesion was most effective. On the basis of the results in these preliminary experiments, re-adhesions of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of Chima and Jeogori were carried out on condition of three times injections of Paraloid B-72 1% solution before wet cleaning. After wet cleaning, the most of the gold leaves were survived, which was confirmed by both the examination with the naked eye and the microscopic examination.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.37-47
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• 2018

This study was attempted to understand present status and characteristics of landscape components of the domestic Korean Gugokwonlim created by the classical scholars in the Joseon Dynasty. The results are as follows. First, Distribution of Gukokwonlim in Korea shows that 55(51.4%) are located in Daegu and Gyeongsangbuk-do, and 22(20.56%) are located in Chungcheongbuk-do. Concentrated locations of Gugok are on the part of Baekdudaegan, from Sobaeksan mountain to Sokrisan mountain via Wolaksan mountain, and the Nakdong River basin of the Nakdong vein in the right bank. This consideration seems to be closely related to the academy of Yeongnam Confucianism and the their trend of Wonrim enjoyment. Second, according to the result of examining the distribution of Gugok according to the basic local government authority, The biggest number of the Gugok places(10 places, 9.35%) are located in Andong, which is called 'the capital of Korean spiritual culture.' Additionally in order, 9 places(9.45%) is located in Goesan, 8 places(7.48%) in Mungyung, 6 places(5.61%) in Bonghwa, and 5 places(4.67%) in Yeongju. Third, in order to the creating time of Gugokwonlim, 33 (33.0%) were created in $18^{th}$ century, and other 33 (33.0%) were created in $19^{th}$ century. In addition, 14 were created during $20^{th}$ century, while 13 were created in $17^{th}$ century. And 4 were created in $16^{th}$ century. Respectively. great number of $18^{th}$ and $19^{th}$ centuries shows that many(66.0%) Gugokwonrim were created between late 18th to 19th centuries. Fourth, There were 97(90.65%) of 'Gugok' in the form of collecting type, and a total number of bottom-up style Gugok were 99(92.5%) while top-down style Gugok were 8(7.5%). Fifth, Among the contents of Gugok, 67 were found in pome of Gugok(64.49%), 29 caved letters in rock(27.10%), and 16 in painting of Gugok(14.95%). Sixth, The most emerged landscape components of Gugok was Dae(臺) 124(13.05%), followed by Am(巖) 115[11.2%, including of Am(岩)] 115(11.2%), and Dam(潭) 73(7.68%), Jeong(亭) 48(5.05%), Dong(洞) 39(4.10%), San(山) 36(3.78%), Am(岩, rocks) 31(3.26 %), Bong(峯, peaks) 27(2.84%), Yeon(淵) 23(2.42%) and Chun(川) and Tan(灘) 22(2.31%). Mostly, common landscape components of Gugok are entrusted natural things. It is expected that more studies about the analysis of characteristics of Gugok's positioning types considering total distance and a gradient are required to understand more clearly characteristics and location distribution of true Gugok and its landscape components.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Traditional Landscape Architecture
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.70-83
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• 2013

To widen prospect of villa as Korea traditional garden, the result of the research about constructional characteristics of Seogo-jeongsa and Sameun-jeong of Yeoju Lee family at Toero-ri, Miryang-si, Gyeongsangnam-do, Korea, is abstracted as below. Seogo-jeongsa(西皐精舍) and Sameun-jeong(三隱亭) was intended to practise retirement with sense of unity with the head residence, since Seogo-jeongsa was 340m far and sameun-jeong was 630m far away from head residence, which set within 1km. Although Seogo-jeongsa's basic prop, Sameun-jeong's timber, which are both from designer's pen name and head residence name, "Hangjae(恒齋)" and "Yongjae(庸齋)," and Hanseoam have each different exposure, it is homogeneous as space configurational side in order to optimize the gaze leading effect and appreciated domestic trees from the pond, which is center of the garden and the significant facility. Method of direction of Seogo-jeongsa's Hwalsudang(活水塘) and Sameunjeong's pond of Sameun-ji(三隱 池) gets attention by distinction. Especially, directing of 3 step water flow from behind to front and traditional pond method, called Bangji-Bangdo(方池方島), were very unique that any other place can be found. Also, the middle islet on the pond at both villa, which isn't more supper, but more for the symbolic molding that seek a stone pagoda(石假山), is more interesting directing method as considering the relationship of the 3 stone pagoda imageries on the surface of Ghwayukchon(果肉泉) At the same time, Seogo-jeongsa and Sameun-jeong shows very different characteristics from traditional villa that adopted both domestic trees and foreign trees. Particularly, it is extremely exceptional case to plant vigorous needleleaf tree, such as Chamaecyparis pisifera, C. obtusa, Pinus bungeana, P. palustris, Sciadopitys verticillata, Metasequoia glyptostroboides and Cedrus deodara, on Sameun-jeong. Moreover, adopting foreign wild needleleaf trees for landscaping trees, such as a Torreya nucifera, Taxus cuspidata, P. parviflora, and foreign landsacping trees, such as P. bungeana, Cryptomeria japonica and C. obtusa tells planting trend of the late Joseon dysnasty era. Also, as we can know from 2 Jipgyeong(集景), which is 'Seogo-jabyoung 17 young(西皐雜詠十七詠)', and 'Sameun-jeong 12 Gyoung(三隱亭十二景)' which are set on both villa, the intend to expand the garden area is strongly shown by the natural forest directing. As a result, Seogo-jeongsa and Sameun-jeong, located at Toero-li Miryang, are sharing the traditional Joseon dynasty era's custom, such as space and visual composition; however, it is different and attractive garden remains as a point of view of water directing, stone pagodas, and adopting foreign landscaping trees.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.15
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• pp.96-121
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• 2014

Portrait of Sim Huisu is a seventeenth-century Joseon portrait of a meritorious vassal. The National Museum of Korea currently owns two portraits of Sim Huisu, which are the eldest son's family and by the eldest grandson of the family's second eldest son. Both were donated in 1980. Portraits were still in its original mounting, but the supporting silk had been damaged and stained in a flood. Conservation treatment was undertaken to restore the original style, and scientific analysis, such as, X-ray, XRD, XRF and Graff "C" stain, was conducted to study the materials and painting techniques. The support silk was found to be refined fibroin and a plain weave consisting of two weft threads and one warp thread. The lining papers were found to be bamboo fiber paper of first layer in China and Korean traditional mulberry paper in second. Various pigments were identified in the painting, including white lead, cinnabar, atacamite, ink stick, azurite, silver, and gold. The study also confirmed the use of the back painting, with colors such as white ^{White Lead}, green ^Atacamite, orange ^Minium, black ^{Ink Stick}, and yellow ^Dye. Also, it was found that stick ink or dye was used with white lead.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.3
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• pp.131-144
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• 2009

This study is about single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ excavated from SongHyosang(宋效商, 1430-1490, SHS hereafter), SongHeeJong(宋喜從, the late 1500s, SHJ hereafter) tombs. There are 7 single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ for men. We focus on comparison of their design and sowing method. 1. Design: Investigating collar, $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ from SHS have MokpanGit and $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ from SHJ have KalGit. KalGit has been seen from SHJ to 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. After the late 1500s, there is no MokpanGit single-laTered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ for men. Side panel under arm has various shapes(triangle, trapezoid, triangle+trapezoid) in 15th century. After the late 1500s, It changes into no side panel. Two $Chog{\breve{a}}ris$ with no side panel from SHJ reveals that the late 1500s is a period of transition. 2. Sewing method: First, researching lengthwise grainline of the fly, the left fly has lengthwise grainline outside In four, inside in three. The right fly has lengthwise grainline outside in just one, the others have lengthwise grainline inside. Compared with today's way, there is a great difference, but in those times there isn't an established rule. This is true of side panel under arm. The sewing method are backstitch, running stitch, and hemming. Researching the construction method of seam, in putting two selvages together, open seam and plain seam are used. In putting selvage and bias, bias and bias together, flat felled seam and french seam are used. This study shows that single-layered $Chog{\breve{a}}ri$ far men from 15C. to 16C. has changes of design such as collar(Git) and side panel undo. arm. But there is little change in sewing method.