• Title/Summary/Keyword: 16~17세기

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Study on Sleeve Patterns of Men's Jackets from 17C to 19C (17세기$\sim$19세기 남성 재킷류의 소매패턴 연구)

  • Park, Sang-Hee;Choi, Jeong-Wook
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.10 no.2
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    • pp.105-115
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    • 2008
  • Men's outer wear, such as jackets and coats appeared since the 16th century. They have been changed from doublets, coats, justaucorps, tail-coats, frock coats and morning coats to contemporary men's suits. Since the early 17th century, sleeve patterns of men's outer jackets had been mostly two-pieces close fitted patterns. The purpose of this article is to compare sleeve patterns of various jackets, which appear in various historic costume books. Armhole measurements, sleeve head measurements, amounts of ease, armhole depths, armhole widths, crown heights, sleeve width and sleeve angle had been compared to find out the differences among patterns of different times and styles. Coming to the present, the difference between top sleeve and under sleeve became more obvious, and the sleeve angle became less curvy. Another interesting point is that there had been considerable amounts of ease, which is the difference between sleeve head measurements and corresponding armhole measurements. It is because the sleeve has been attached to the armhole not by seam but by string. It is believed that the present sleeves have more natural curve and shape compared to the past.

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A Study on Fabrics and Pattern of the Excavated Costume During $16{\cdot}17th$ Century in Joseon Period (조선시대 $16{\cdot}17$세기 출토복식의 직물유형 및 문양에 관한 연구)

  • Yim Hyun-Joo;Cho Hyo-Sook
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.54 no.8
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    • pp.113-128
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    • 2004
  • This study examined textiles used for ancient costumes of the $16{\cdot}17th$ century in Joseon period, focusing on fabric types and patterns of the costumes from tombs. The purpose of this study was focused on investigating the relationship between fabrics and social backgrounds, especially change in using fabrics through the war from Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. Since the war must have had an effect on the life of people's. The result of the study is that silk occupies $69{\%}$ of all textiles, and cotton, linen follow The weaving method of silk was primarily Plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo Period, were considerably decreased in Joseon Period. Types excavated fabrics in the $16{\cdot}17th$ century Joseon period can be said various. Of this, silk was the most remarkable one till Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, when the ratio of patterned silk dramatically decreased. Contrarily, the ratio of cotton and plain fabric increased rapidly in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. It is supposed that the result is largely due to unusual condition of the war time. After the war, it is estimated that use of pattened fabric as well as silk was decreased. Patterns of textile fabrics in $16{\cdot}17th$ century were various. In result of surveying a trend of increment and decrement, it is known that the ratio of patterned textile fabrics decreased dramatically in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592 and Manchu war of 1636. Tendency of textile use by social Position is more notable. It is appeared that a lot of silk fabrics were used in High hierarchy. The excavated remain and ratio of silk were the highest in Kyonggi Province including Seoul.

A Study of 'Asymmetry Triangle-Gusset' with Shirts [Jeoksam and Hansam] in the Early Days of Joseon Dynasty ('비대칭 접음 삼각 무' 적삼·한삼에 대한 고찰)

  • Jin, Deok Soon;Kim, Jin Kyung;Song, Mi-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.8
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    • pp.76-89
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    • 2013
  • This study is about 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' Jeoksam and Hansam in the early days of Joseon Dynasty. A study was done regarding the records of Jeoksam and Hansam in literature, the present state of the excavated 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing Jeoksam and Hansam, and finally a deduction of the reason for the appearance of the 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing Jeoksam and Hansam. The width of front length of 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing in the early days of Joseon Dynasty is 29.5~35 cm and the width of one breath of the sleeve is 29.5~35 cm. The width of 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' is 9.5~16 cm and it is relatively big. Comparing to the width of one breath of the sleeve, it is almost 1:2.2~3.6 ratio. Therefore, when the sleeve was cut, the Mu was linked in order to save fabric the gusset of sleeve had to be folded and turned, and finally it became asymmetric. As a result of the above consideration, since the width of upper garments of $16{\sim}17^{th}$ century was big, the wearing of short tops of Jeoksam or Hansam without side vent as a small 'triangle-Mu' was uncomfortable. Because of this reason, the size had no option but to become bigger. So, during the $16^{th}$ and $17^{th}$ century, a period where mass production of fabric was difficult, the 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' type was considered to be a reasonable cutting method. After the middle of $17^{th}$ century, it can be estimated that 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing disappeared according to the narrow aspect of clothing type.

A Study on Excavated Costume of the Bae's Clan of Seong-san - Focused on Analysis on Features of Sewing Observed in Po(Coat in Korea in the Past) - (성산 배씨 문중 출토복식에 관한 연구 - 포(袍)에 나타난 봉제구성법의 특징 분석을 중심으로 -)

  • Lee, Sang-Eun;Lee, Dong-A
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.11 no.1
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    • pp.133-153
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    • 2009
  • Clothing was excavated when the Bae's clan of Seong-san, Yeong-dong, Chung-buk in Sep. 2, 2004. The tombs that the clothing could be restored were the tombs of Bae Cheon-jo(10th generation) and the tomb of Mrs. Nam of Go-seong, the wife of Bae Sang-gyeong(1lth generation). For identifying the features and methods of sewing used for the clothing of man and woman around Po(coat in Korea in the past) in the 16th to 17th century, this study investigated 12 items from Bae Cheon-jo's tomb(Sibok, Dopo(robe), Jungchimak(outer coat with large sleeves) and Gwa-du and 5 items(Jangok(lady's cloak) and Jungchimak) from Mrs. Nam's tomb of Go-seong. For sewing, broad-stitching, hemming and even-back-stitching were used the most in that order. Furthermore, various kinds of sophisticated stitching including old flat felled seam, decorative saddle stitching and buttonhole stitch, clothing made roughly as a shroud and fabric attached on the clothing were also observed. We may not have many opportunities to understand the change of clothing in Korea from mid 16th century to mid 17th century through the clothing of father-in-law and daughter-in-law in a family. As a result, we will be able to understand the features of sewing in a family and from the 16th century to the 17th century.

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Arrangement Methods of Pattern and Weaving Types of Fabrics During 16~17th Century - Centering Flower Patterned Fabrics of Exhumed Clothing in Chosun Dynasty - (16~17세기 직물유형과 문양의 배치구도에 관한 연구 - 조선시대 출토복식에 나타난 화문직을 중심으로 -)

  • Park, Mun-Young;Kim, Ho-Jung;Park, Ok-Lyun
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.8 no.4
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    • pp.400-406
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    • 2006
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate characteristics of arrangement methods and weaving types of fabrics during 16-17 century. Research was done through the references of exhumed clothing in Chosun Dynesty. Seeing the waving types of fabrics of flower patterned fabrics of total 108 items, satin damask(Dahn) was 71items, took the majority. And the next order was twill(Neung) and plain(Ju). It means Dahn was the most popular fabric among the upper classes. It was regarded as one of the noble textiles, because of its luxurious appearance and pleasant touch. Flower patterned plain fabric(Munju) was found only 9items, even though the plain fabric was the most common used type. Assumed for the reason, Chosun government had restrict to extravagance of the people. In terms of the arrangement of flower pattern, it can be classified into three methods. The most common arrangement method was Arabesque type, followed by open order shaped type and scattering shaped type. In the repetition of pattern, there were brick-shaped pattern and half drop pattern which were spread flower pattern all over the surface of fabric.

A Study on the Excavated Sab(a funeral fan) from Lime-filled Tomb and Lime-layered Tomb during the Joseon Dynasty (조선시대 회격·회곽묘 출토 삽(翣)에 대한 고찰)

  • Yi, Seung Hae;An, Bo Yeon
    • Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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    • v.41 no.2
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    • pp.43-59
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    • 2008
  • Sap(?, a funeral fan) is a funeral ceremonial object used in association with a Confucian ceremonial custom, which was crafted by making a wooden frame, attaching a white cloth or a thick paper onto it, drawing pictures on it, and making a holder for a handle. According to Liji(Records of Rites), Sap was used since the Zhou Dynasty, and these Chinese Sap examples are no big different than the Korean Sap examples, which were described in Joseon Wangjo Sillok(Annals of the Joseon Dynasty), Gukjo Oryeui(the Five Rites of the State), and Sarye Pyeollam(Handbook on Four Rituals). This study explored Sap excavated in lime-filled tombs and lime-layered tombs of aristocrats dating back to Joseon, as well as their historical records to examine Sap's characteristics according to their examples, manufacturing methods, and use time. The number and designs of Sap varied according to the deceased' social status aristocrats used mainly one pair of 亞-shaped Bulsap, and a pair of Hwasap with a cloud design depicted on it. A Sap was wrapped twice with Chojuji paper or Jeojuji paper, and for the third time with Yeonchangji paper. Then, it was covered with a white ramie, a hemp, a cotton, a silk satin, etc. Bobul(an axe shape and 亞-shape design) was drawn on both sides of Sap, and a rising current of cloud was drawn at the peripheral area mainly with red or scarlet pigments. Sap, which were excavated from aristocrats'lime-filled and lime-layered tombs, are the type of Sap which were separated from its handle. These excavated Sap are those whose long handles were burnt during the death carriage procession, leaving Sap, which later were erected on both sides of the coffin. The manufacturing process of excavated relics can be inferred by examining them. The excavated relics are classified into those with three points and those with two points according to the number of point. Of the three-point type(Type I), there is the kind of relic that was woven into something like a basket by using a whole wood plate or cutting bamboo into flat shapes. The three-point Sap was concentrated comparatively in the early half of Joseon, and was manufactured with various methods compared with its rather unified overall shape. In the meantime, the two-point Sap was manufactured with a relatively formatted method; its body was manufactured in the form of a rectangle or a reverse trapezoid, and then its upper parts with two points hanging from them were connected, and the top surface was made into a curve(Type II) or a straight line(Type III) differentiating it from the three-point type. This manufacturing method, compared with that of the three-point type, is simple, but is not greatly different from the three-point type manufacturing method. In particular, the method of crafting the top surface into a straight line has been used until today. Of the examined 30 Sap examples, those whose production years were made known from the buried persons'death years inscribed on the tomb stones, were reexamined, indicating that type I was concentrated in the first half of the $16^{th}$ century. Type II spanned from the second half of the $16^{th}$ century to the second half of the $17^{th}$ century, and type III spanned from the first half of the $17^{th}$ century to the first half of the $18^{th}$ century. The shape of Sap is deemed to have changed from type I to type II and again from type II to type III In the $17^{th}$ century, which was a time of change, types II and III coexisted. Of the three types of Sap, types II and III re similar because they have two points; thus a noteworthy transit time is thought to have been the middle of the $16^{th}$ century. Type I compared with types II and III is thought to have required more efforts and skills in the production process, and as time passed, the shape and manufacturing methods of Sap are presumed to have been further simplified according to the principle of economy. The simplification of funeral ceremonies is presumed to have been furthered after Imjinwaeran(Japanese invasion of Joseon, 1592~1598), given that as shown in the Annals of King Seonjo, state funerals were suspended several times. In the case of Sap, simplification began from the second half of the $16^{th}$ century, and even in the $18^{th}$ century, rather than separately crafting Sap, Sap was directly drawn on the coffin cover and the coffin. However, in this simplification of form, regulations on the use of Sap specified in Liji were observed, and thus the ceremony was rationally simplified.

A Study on the color of Daily Clothes of middle Era of the Chosun Dynasty (조선중기 일상복의 색상연구(I)-16.17세기 출토복식 중심-)

  • 장인우
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.41
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    • pp.49-62
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    • 1998
  • This study investigates the color of daily clothes of middle era of Yi dynasty by examining the color of excavated clothing which was the real clothes in 16th and 17th centuries. The purposes of this study lie in understanding emotional feeling observed by exact measurement of the color of the excavated and devising a method of reserving the color of the excavated by inspecting the discolored color of the excavated. For this, the color difference was measured by color measuring system. Minolta Chroma-meter, and then recorded in L*a*b system. The 3-dimensional color difference was observed by analyzing these data on Methmetica and change in color with ageing was assessed by reconstructing the color by Phoposhop. The color construction of daily clothes of middle era of the Chosun Dynasty was founded on a philosophy, and it was made up of colors such as white, brown, and blue. This color construction seemed to be based on the philosophy of naturalism symbolizing surrounding nature, e.g., white symbolizes Bak-sasang(bak-philosophy) and blue implies Eumyangohangsul.

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Immunohistochemical Localization of NMDA Receptor in the Auditory Brain Stem of Postnatal 7, 16 Circling Mouse (생후 7일, 16일된 circling mouse 청각 뇌줄기에서 N-메틸-D 아스파르트산염 수용체(NMDA receptor)에 대한 면역염색학적 분포)

  • Choi, In-Young;Park, Ki-Sup;Kim, Hye-Jin;Maskey, Dhiraj;Kim, Myeung-Ju
    • Applied Microscopy
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    • v.40 no.2
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    • pp.53-64
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    • 2010
  • Glutamate receptors may play a critical role in the refinement of developing synapses. The lateral superior olivary nucleus (LSO)-medial nucleus of trapezoid body (MNTB) synaptic transmission in the mammalian auditory brain stem mediate many excitatory transmitters such as glutamate, which is a useful model to study excitatory synaptic development. Hearing deficits are often accompanied by changes in the synaptic organization such as excitatory or inhibitory circuits as well as anatomical changes. Owing to this, circling mouse whose cochlea degenerates spontaneously after birth, is an excellent animal model to study deafness pathophysiology. However, little is known about the development regulation of the subunits composing these receptors in circling mouse. Thus, we used immunohistochemical method to compare the N-Methyl-D-aspartate receptor (NMDA receptor) NR1, NR2A, NR2B distribution in the LSO which project glutamergic excitatory input into the auditory brainstem, in circling mouse of postnatal (p) 7 and 16, which have spontaneous mutation in the inner ear, with wild-type mouse. The relative NMDAR1 immunoreactive density of the LSO in circling mouse p7 was $128.67\pm8.87$ in wild-type, $111.06\pm8.04$ in heterozygote, and $108.09\pm5.94$ in homozygote. The density of p16 circling mouse was $43.83\pm10.49$ in wild-type, $40\pm13.88$ in heterozygote, and $55.96\pm17.35$ in homozygote. The relative NMDAR2A immunoreactive density of LSO in circling mouse p7 was $97.97\pm9.71$ in wild-type, $102.87\pm9.30$ in heterozygote, and $106.85\pm5.79$ in homozygote. The density of LSO in p16 circling was $47.4\pm20.6$ in wild-type, $43.9\pm17.5$ in heterozygote, and $49.2\pm20.1$ in homozygote. The relative NMDAR2B immunoreactive density of LSO in circling mouse p7 was $109.04\pm6.77$ in wild-type, $106.43\pm10.24$ in heterozygote, and $105.98\pm4.10$ in homozygote. the density of LSO in p16 circling mouse was $101.47\pm11.5$ in wild-type, $91.47\pm14.81$ in heterozygote, and $93.93\pm15.71$ in homozygote. These results reveal alteration of NMDAR immunoreactivity in LSO of p7 and p16 circling mouse. The results of the present study are likely to be relevant to understand the central change underlying human hereditary deafness.

Wrapping Cloth with Cloud and Treasures Pattern Donated by the Head House of the Descendants of Lee Hangbok at the National Museum of Korea: Dating and Analysis of the Cloud and Treasures Pattern (국립중앙박물관 소장 이항복 종가 기증 운보문단 보자기 무늬의 특징과 연대추정)

  • Hwang, Jinyoung
    • Conservation Science in Museum
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    • v.23
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    • pp.49-60
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    • 2020
  • The wrapping cloth with Cloud and Treasures Pattern donated by the head house of the descendants of Lee Hangbok (1556-1618) at the National Museum of Korea underwent conservation treatment for its protection and display. It was then compared with other ancient fabric objects for dating and analysis of the design. The subjects of Cloud and Treasures Patterns of clothing excavated from tombs dated to some point between the birth and death of Lee Hangbok and with Cloud and Treasures Patterns on the covers of Uigwe copies from the same period from the late 16th and 18th centuries were compared. The results of comparison with relics with clear dating are as follows: First, The Cloud and Treasures Patterns on the late 16th and 17th centuries the differences in the proportion between the head and the tail of the cloud among. Second, the Cloud and Treasures Patterns on the covers of Uigwe copies and fabrics excavated from tombs dated no later than the early 1700s share similarities with the Cloud and Treasures Pattern on the donated wrapping cloth in terms of the arrangement and size of designs and the proportion between each portion of the design. Though the study failed to identify the exact use of the wrapping cloth, it was estimated to be produced in early 18th century when the portraits of Lee Hangbok were copied.

A Study on Chosun period burial clothing in 15th to 17th Centuries (15~17세기 예서에 검용의와 그 의미)

  • 장인우;이춘계
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.25
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    • pp.269-284
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    • 1995
  • This study investgates the significance of Chosun burial clothing in 15th to 17th Centuries by examing the costumes recorded in the ryesu (ritual books). Referring to description of the mouring-rit-ual in the the Kujoohryei(국조오례의), the sangryebiyo(상례비요), they exhibit little differ-ence in the ceremonial procedure, this implies that the the Jujagarye, the oldiest Chinese Ryesu, had influence on the manner of Chosun. The Kujoohryei(국조오례의) written-in 15th Century played a paramount role in domesti-cation of burial costume(염습의) which had been performed by the Jujagarye(주자가례), and the sangryebiyo(상례비요) etc written between 16th and 17th Centries promoted to genealize the mouring-ritual to the ordinery people. In the period, ryemsupui(염습의, clothing for the dead) is costumes for 'sup(습)', sofyum(소렴), and 'daeryum(대렴)' in the mourning ceremorial procedure, and for postliminal rites in the rites of passage. The reason of using clothing which they put on the dead's own daily clothing stands for eagerness for lasting life not only in this world but also in the other world.

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