• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.232-239
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• 1993

In this paper the effect of wave motion acting on the natural folds of dispersed material in the coastal zone is studied. After integrating the usual diffusion equation with respect to the depth using shallow-water approximation simpler equation for integrated concentration was obtained. which holds for long waves of arbitrary amplitude and far any arbitrary barotropic flows. Different situations of long wave action on impurity concentration in the frame of this equation are considered.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.28-33
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• 1990

A parabolic model is presented for the effective calculation of refraction-diffraction of regular water while they are propagating on the water of slowly varying sea bed with currents. Parabolic wave equation has been used in the model, which is derived from a mild-slope equation using Pade' approximation. With the corrections of Kirby's (1986) model some numerical experiments were carried out to analyze the model accuracy.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.189-196
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• 1999

In order to verify a numerical model for the calculation of wave motion around an offshore barrier in shallow water, laboratory physical experiments are necessary. In this study, sample experiments are carried out on the wave and wave induced current fields due to a sloping bottom topography and on that due to an isolated structure from the coastline. The water body is divided into 4 levels, in which the current tracking floaters are deployed to measure the wave induced currents. Data measurement was continued using the limited wave gauges and current tracking floaters including a video camera from the top. The wave heights for the preselected surface and time-averaged velocity distributions at each level were measured in detail. The distribution of wave and current fields was analyzed precisely combining the whole measured laboratory data. Moreover, comprehensive analyses were carried out on non-linearity of wave transformation in terms of skewness and atiltness.

• Water for future
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.67-76
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• 1988

Analyzed was the circulation phenomena in the open channel with sudden expansion, by applying the Galerkin's finite element method to the depth-averaged 2-dimensional continuity and momentum equations. Wave tests were done in the simplified channel in order to review the validity of this newly developed model and the computed results were within 0.5% of $L_2$-norm error, and application of this model to the simulation of simplified dam-break gave very close results compared with the analytical solution, thus, it can be concluded that this model is valid and efficient. The main flow in the expanded channel was defined as a new initial condition with given velocity and the flow in the expanded portion was at rest in simulating the circulation, and besides the Neumann's condition the slip boundary condition for lateral wall was found to be proper condition than the no-slip condition. It can be concluded, from the numerical tests in the sudden expension, that the circulating phenomena depend mainly on the convective inertia and the effect of turbulence due to bottom shear and lateral shear is insignificant.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2015.05a
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• pp.361-361
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• 2015

감세블록(baffle block)은 고속의 흐름에서 도수를 유도함으로써 과도한 에너지를 감세시키는 역할을 하는 구조물이며 구조물의 크기, 형태, 위치, 조합 등의 변수로 도수가 형성되는 조건을 조절하여 흐름에 영향을 줄 수 있다. 하단방류형 가동보에서 고속으로 방류되는 흐름의 Froude 수가 2.5에서 4.5 사이일 경우 발생하는 불규칙한 주기의 진동이 중첩 보강되면 감세하기 어려운 파동을 형성하여 수 Km 동안 지속될 수 있어 추가적인 조치가 필요하다(Peterka, 1984). 이 연구에서는 총 연장 11m, 폭 0.5m의 구형수로에 하단방류형 가동보와 감세블럭을 설치하여 감세블록의 위치가 에너지의 감세에 미치는 영향을 분석하고, 감세블록의 최적 위치를 제안하였다. 감세블럭은 높이 2cm, 폭 5cm의 구형단면으로 제작하여 일정한 간격으로 치형 배열하였으며, 가동보로 부터 5.5~8.5cm 지점에서 1cm간격으로 총 5가지 조건으로 수리실험을 수행하였다. 또한, 수문 하단에서의 Froude 수가 3.8~3.9를 만족하는 강한 도수가 발생할 수 있도록 유량을 조절 하였고, 유속과 수심은 3차원 유속계와 피에조미터를 이용하여 가동보로부터 0.2m간격으로 하류단 2m 지점까지 측정하였다. 실험 결과, 가동보로부터 도수가 발생하여 수위가 안정되는 지점까지의 도수길이는 감세블록을 설치한 경우, 설치하기 전의 1.1m와 비교하여 최소 27.3%에서 최대 81.8%만큼 짧아졌으며 감세블록 보에 가깝게 설치될수록 도수길이는 단축되는 것으로 나타났다. 가동보 하류부에서 도수가 발생한 이후 수심이 안정화되는 1m 지점에서, 도수 전후의 비에너지비로 정의되는 도수효율은 감세블록 미설치 시 74.9%이고, 감세블록이 설치된 조건에서는 54.9~60.6%로 감세블록에 의한 에너지 감소효과가 큰 것으로 나타났다. 에너지 감세 효과가 가장 큰 감세블록 위치는 가동보로부터 6.5cm 떨어진 곳으로 하류단 수심의 약 80%에 해당하는 지점이 감세블록의 최적 위치인 것으로 판단된다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.294-304
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• 2019

This study evaluates the variation characteristics of wave fields (transmission ratio, wave height, time-averaged velocity and time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy) for two-dimensional low-crested structure by olaFlow model based on the two-phases flow numerically. In addition, the present numerical results are verified by comparing with the existing experimental results. The time-averaged velocity, one of various numerical results is formed counterclockwise circulating cell on the front of structure and is occurred strong uni-directional flow on onshore side. It is shown that these are closely related to the factors such as overtopping, etc.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.29 no.5B
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• pp.463-472
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• 2009

The aim of this study is to examine the effect of beach curvature on wave fields in coastal area with Submerged Breakwaters using the 3D numerical model that is able to simulate directly interaction of WAve Structure Sandy beach (LES-WASS-3D). At first, the adopted model was validated through the comparison with an existing experimental data and showed fairly nice agreement. And then, the numerical simulations have been performed to investigate the effect of according to the variation of beach curvature. Based on the numerical results, the wave height, mean surface elevation, mean flow around submerged breakwaters and longshore distributions of run-up height have been discussed in relation to the variation of beach curvature.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.409-422
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• 2019

In this study, we carried out the 3D numerical simulation to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of Synchronous Edge wave known as the driving mechanism of beach cusp using the Tool Box called the ihFoam that has its roots on the OpenFoam. As a wave driver, RANS (Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equation) and mass conservation equation are used. In doing so, we materialized short-crested waves known as the prerequisite for the formation of Synchronous Edge waves by generating two obliquely colliding Cnoidal waves. Numerical results show that as can be expected, flow velocity along the cross section where waves are focused are simulated to be much faster than the one along the cross section where waves are diverged. It is also shown that along the cross section where waves are focused, up-rush is moving much faster than its associated back-wash, but a duration period of up-rush is shortened, which complies the typical characteristics of nonlinear waves. On the other hand, due to the water-merging effect triggered by the redirected flow toward wave-diverging area at the pinacle of run-up, along the cross section where waves are diverged, offshore-ward velocity is larger than shore-ward velocity at the vicinity of shore-line, while at the very middle of shoaling process, the asymmetry of flow velocity leaned toward the shore is noticeably weakened. Considering that these flow characteristics can be found without exception in Synchronous Edge waves, the numerical simulation can be regarded to be successfully implemented. In doing so, new insight about how the boundary layer streaming occur are also developed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.332-349
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• 2016

OLAFOAM is the powerful CFD code and is an expanded version of $OpenFOAM^{(R)}$, for wave mechanics simulation. The $OpenFOAM^{(R)}$ does provide many solvers to correspond to each object of the numerical calculation in a variety of fields. OLAFOAM's governing equation bases on VARANS (Volume-Averaged Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes) equation, and the finite volume method is applied to numerical techniques. The program is coded in C++ and run on the Linux operating system. First of all, in this study, OLAFOAM was validated for 1) wave transformation inside porous structure under bore and regular wave conditions, 2) wave transformation by submerged breakwater under regular wave condition, and 3) regular wave transformation and resultant vertical velocity distribution under current by comparison with existing laboratory measurements. Hereafter, this study, which is almost no examination carried out until now, analyzed closely variation characteristics of water surface level, wave height, frequency spectrum, breaking waves, averaged velocity and turbulent kinetic energy around porous submerged breakwater in the wave and current coexisting field for the case of permeable or impermeable rear beach. It was revealed that the wave height fluctuation according to current direction(following or opposing) was closely related to the turbulent kinetic energy, and others.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.171-181
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• 2011

Recently, many studies have been attempted to save the cost of production and to build the ocean energy power generating system. The low-reflection structure with the wall-typed curtain which has a wave power generation system of OWC is known as the most effective energy conversion system. A three-dimensional numerical model was used to understand the characteristics of velocity of flows about compressed air and to estimate the pressure acting on the low-reflection structure due to the short-period waves. The three-dimensional numerical wave flume which is the model for the immiscible two-phase flow was applied in interpretation for this. The numerical simulation showed well about the changes in velocity of compressed air and the characteristics of pressure according to the change in the wave height and depth of the curtain wall. Additionally, the results found that there was the point of the maximum velocity of the compressed air when the reflection coefficient is at its lowest point.