• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.50 no.1
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• pp.37-48
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• 2024

Songla (Usnea diffracta Vain.) is one of the lichens belonging to the genus Usnea, and pharmacological activities such as antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, anti-tumor and cardiovascular protection have been reported in previous studies, but its efficacy in skin and hair is not well known. In this study, the effect of Usnea diffracta extract (UDE) on anti-aging and dermal papilla cell proliferation was verified in vitro. As a result of the experiment, it was confirmed that the UDE significantly reduced the expression of MMP-1 and the activity of MAPKs (ERK, p38, JNK) and AP-1 (c-Fos, c-Jun), which were increased by UVA in HDFn. In addition, the UDE significantly increased the proliferation of HFDPC and significantly increased the mRNA expression of VEGF and KGF, which are hair growth factors. Accordingly, the phosphorylation of ERK/CREB involved in hair proliferation and expression of growth factors was increased in a concentration-dependent manner. The main component represented by the main peak was separated and purified using Prep LC by concentrating the UDE, which was confirmed as diffractaic acid through NMR and Mess analysis. Isolated diffractaic acid significantly reduced the expression of MMP-1 increased by UVA in HDFn and increased the proliferation of HFDPC in a concentration-dependent manner. The result suggest that UDE proved its usability as a natural cosmetic material with anti-aging and dermal papilla cell activation effects.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.403-412
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• 2016

The tight junction, one of Intercellular junctions, performs a variety of biological functions by bonding adjacent cells, including the barrier function to control the movement of the electrolyte and water. Recent studies have revealed that unusual expression of tight junction-related genes have been shown to be related in cancer development and progression. Recently, there are many reports that control of tight junction proteins expression is closely related to the skin moisture. In this study, we are focusing on the regulating mechanism of tight junction-associated genes by the steviol and its derivatives. Steviol, used as a sweetner, is known to chemical compound isolated from stevia plant. The MTS (3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-5-(3-carboxymethoxyphenyl)-2-(4-sulfophenyl)-2H-tetrazolium, inner salt) assay was carried out in HaCaT cells (human keratinocyte cell line) in order to determine the cytotoxicity. As a result, while steviol showing cytotoxicity from $250{\mu}M$, steviol derivatives are not cytotoxic more than $250{\mu}M$ concentration. We have observed a change in the tight junction protein via quantitative real-time PCR. Claudin 8 among tight junction proteins is only significantly reduced up to 30% in the presence of steviol. In addition, cell migration was inhibited by steviol, not by stevioside and rebaudioside. Finally, we could observe that steviol, not stevioside and rebaudioside, is able to increase the skin barrier permeability through the transepithelial electric resistance (TEER) measurements. These results suggest that the steviol and its derivatives are specifically acts on the tight junction related gene expression, but steviol derivatives are more suitable as a cosmetic material.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.1
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• pp.63-71
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• 2004

The human skin is constantly exposed to environmental irritants such as ultraviolet, smoke, chemicals. Free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) caused by these environmental facts play critical roles in cellular damage. These irritants are in themselves damaging to the skin structure but they also participate the immensely complex inflammatory reaction. The purpose of this study was to investigate the skin cell protective effect of Juniperus chinensis xylem extract on the UV and SLS-induced skin cell damages. We tested free radical and superoxide scavenging effect in vitro. We found that Juniperus chinensis xylem extracts had potent radical scavenging effect by 98％ at 100 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL. Fluorometric assays of the proteolytic activities of matrix metalloproteinase-l(MMP-1, collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. UV A induced MMP-1 synthesis and activity were analyzed by enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) and gelatin-based zymography in skin fibroblasts. The extract of Juniperus chinensis showed strong inhibitory effect on MMP-1 activities by 97％ at 100 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL and suppressed the UVA induced expression of MMP-1 by 79％ at 25 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL. This extract also showed strong inhibition on MMP-2 activity in UVA irradiated fibroblast by zymography. We also examined anti-inflammatory effects by the determination test of proinflammatory cytokine, interleukin 6 in HaCaT keratinocytes. In this test Juniperus chinensis decreased expression of interleukin 6 about 30％. Expression of prostaglandin E$_2$, (PGE$_2$) after UVB irradiation was measured by competitive enzyme immunoassay (EIA) using PGE$_2$ monoclonal antibody. At the concentrations of 5-50 $\mu\textrm{g}$/mL of the extracts, the production of PGE$_2$ by HaCaT keratinocytes (24 hours after 10 mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ UVB irradiation) was significantly inhibited in culture supernatants (p〈0.05). The viability of cultured HaCaT keratinocytes was significantly reduced at the doses of above 10 mJ/$\textrm{cm}^2$ of UVB irradiation, but the presence of these extracts improved cell viability comparing to control after UVB irradiation. We also investigated the protective effect of this extract in sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)-induced irritant skin reactions from 24 hour exposure. Twice a day application of the extract for reducing local inflammation in human skin was done. Irritant reactions were assessed by various aspects of skin condition, that is, erythema (skin color reflectance) and transepidermal water loss (TEWL). After 5 days the extract was found to reduce SLS-induced skin erythema and improve barrier regeneration when compared to untreated symmetrical test site. In conclusion, our results suggest that Juniperus chinensis can be effectively used for the prevention of UV and SLS-induced adverse skin reactions such as radical production, inflammation and skin cell damage.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.30 no.3 s.47
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• pp.393-397
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• 2004

L-Carnitine $({\beta}-hydroxy-{\gamma}-trimethyl-ammoniumbutyric{\;}acid)$ is a small water-soluble molecule important in mammalian fat metabolism. It is essential for the normal oxidation of fatty acids by the mitochondria, and is involved in the trans-esterification and excretion of acyl-CoA esters. In this paper, to investigate the relationship between aging and L-carnitine, we investigated the effects of in vitro matrix-metalloproteinase (MMP) inhibition and activity and expression of UYA-induced MMPs in human skin fibroblasts. Also, we studied to develop as anti-aging cosmetics with L-carnitine. Fluorometric assays of the proteolytic activities of MMP-1 (collagenase) were performed using fluorescent collagen substrates. ELISA (enzyme linked immune sorbent assay), gelatin-substrate zymography, RT-PCR ELISA techniques were used for the effects of L-carnitine on MMP expression, activity, and MMP mRNA expression in UVA irradiated fibroblast $(5\;J/cm^2)$, respectively. In addition, we performed clinical study with L-carnitine cream. L-carnitine inhibited the activities of MMP-1 in a dose-dependent manner and the $IC_{50}$ values calculated from semi-log plots were 2.45 mM, and L-carnitine showed strong inhibition on MMP-2 (gelatinase) activity in UVA irradiated fibroblast by zymography. Also, UVA induced MMP-1, 2 expression was reduced $43\%,\;53\%$ by treated with L-carnitine at 1.25 mM, and MMP-1 mRNA expression was reduced dose-dependent manner. Therefore L-carnitine was able to significantly inhibit the MMP activity, and regulate MMP expression in protein and mRNA level. The results of clinical study showed that $1.0\%$ L-carnitine treated group reduced wrinkle significantly compared with placebo treated group (P<0.05). All these results suggest that L-carnitine may be useful as new anti-aging cosmetics for protection against UVA induced Mm expression and activity.

• Journal of Life Science
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.550-558
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• 2021

Fructus Corni, the fruit of Cornus officinalis, has long been used for the prevention and treatment of various diseases. We recently suggested that it was effective against benign prostatic hyperplasia (BPH). In this study, we investigated the inhibitory effect of Corni Fructus (CF) water extract on BPH induced by testosterone propionate (TP) in noncastrated and castrated animal models. BPH was induced in Sprague Dawley rats by an intramuscular injection of TP in castrated or noncastrated rats. Finasteride (FINA) treatment was used as a positive control for inhibition of BPH. According to our results, CF administration inhibited excessive enlargement of development of the prostate in both the noncastrated and castrated groups compared to the control and FINA-treated groups. The inhibitory effect of CF on BPH was associated with inhibition of expression of hypoxia-inducible factor-1α, 5α-reductase type 2, steroid receptor coactivator-1, androgen receptor (AR), and prostate-specific antigen. Serum levels of the stress hormone cortisol increased during BPH induction by TP in both the noncastrated and castrated groups, but they were attenuated significantly by CF administration. However, insulin and IGF-1 levels were not increased in the BPH-induced groups and CF, and no effective results were found by CF administration. These results point to a beneficial effect of CF on BPH through inhibition of AR signaling pathway activity and imply that CF shows excellent potential as a therapeutic agent for the prevention and treatment of BPH.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.49 no.4
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• pp.313-321
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• 2023

Platycodon grandiflorus (P. grandiflorus) flower is a perennial plant belonging to the family Campanulaceae and has many excellent pharmacological effects, so it has been used as a medicinal ingredient since ancient times. In addition, anthocyanin is a purple or blue natural pigment contained in plant flowers and fruits, and is known as a powerful antioxidant. The purpose of this study was to confirm the dermatological functionality of P. grandiflorus flower extract and the value of the bluish anthocyanin contained in flowers as a cosmetic material as a natural pigment. Firstly, 50% ethanol and 80% ethanol were added to the P. grandiflorus flower and extracted under reflux for 4 h at 25, 60, and 80 ℃, and the pH of each treatment group was similar. Based on the anthocyanin content and chromaticity (E^*ab), 50% ethanol 60 ℃ extraction conditions showing the color development most similar to the natural color of the P. grandifloras flower were selected, and a sample was prepared by concentrating and lyophilizing. The analysis results showed that the total phenol, total flavonoid, and total anthocyanin contents were in the ranges of 23 ㎍/mL, 16 ㎍/mL, and 0.17 ㎍/mL, respectively. The P. grandiflorus flower extract suppressed the production of nitric oxide (NO) and interleukin-6 (IL-6) in lipopolysaccharide (LPS) induced RAW264.7 cells. Furthermore, the P. grandiflorus flower extract showed wound healing effects through the promotion of skin cell migration in TNF-α stimulated human keratinocytes. The stability of anthocyanin and extract color was studied during a storage period of 50 days at various temperatures (4 ℃, 25 ℃, and 45 ℃). Color values (L, a, and b) of the P. grandiflorus flower extract changed over 50 days, whereas the bluish-purple color of the extract was stabilized using 5% maltodextrin. These results suggest that P. grandiflorus flower extract may be useful as a natural cosmetic pigment.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.351-356
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• 2011

Citrus unshiu (C. unshiu) Markovich were dried peel of mandarin orange, of which fresh fruit was one of the famous foods in Korea and Eastern Asia. In the oriental medicine, C. unshiu peel was known to have a diuretic effect and to strengthen spleen function. Recently, natural flavonoids of C. unshiu peel have been investigated. In this study, C. unshiu peel extract containing flavonoid-glycosides was cultured with Schizophyllum commune (S. commune) mycelia producing ${\beta}$-glu- cosidase and its biological activities were investigated. ${\beta}$-glucosidase of S. commune mycelia converted the flavonoid-glycosides (rutin and hesperidin) into aglycones (naringenin and hesperetin). Fermented C. unshiu peel extract compounds were analyzed by HPLC system. The photoprotective potential of fermented C. unshiu peel extract was tested in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) exposed to UVA. Fermented C. unshiu peel extract extract also showed notable in vitro anti-inflammatory effect on cellular systems generating cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) and 5-lipoxygenase (5-LOX) metabolites. Also, UVB-induced production of interleukin-$1{\alpha}$ in human HaCaT cells was reduced in a dose-dependent manner by treatment with fermented C. unshiu peel extract. These results suggest that fermented C. unshiu peel extract may mitigate the effects of photoaging in skin by reducing UV-induced adverse skin reaction.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.303-308
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• 2011

Lemon and eucalyptus oils were known to have various biological effects such as anti-aging and sterilizing action. However these essential oils were not well studied about their antioxidant activity and antimicrobial activity against specific skin flora. In this study, we investigated antioxidant activity and antimicrobial activity of lemon and eucalyptus oils by using DPPH radical scavening activity and paper disc method. Lemon oil showed the high DPPH scavenging activity, while eucalyptus oil did not. Blending oils of lemon and eucalyptus had little enhancememt onantioxidant activity. Paper disc method demonstrated that each oil had a high antimicrobial effect against C. albicans and P. acnes in a concentration dependent manner. The blending oils had enhancememt on antimicrobial effect against P. acnes. In conclusion, the blending oil of lemon and eucalyptus can be used as a more effective natural agents for cure of skin trouble and acne.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.327-335
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• 2011

5,4'-dihydroxystilbene-3-O-${\beta}$-D-glucopyranoside (Polydatin) is one of the stilbenes found in Polygonum cuspidatum (P. cuspidatum), however, the effects of polydatin on skin biology remain to be elucidated. In this study, we obtained polydatin from P. cuspidatum and investigated the effects of polydatin in skin-derived melanocytes and fibroblasts. In melanocytes, polydatin inhibited not only the tyrosinase activity and melanin production but the expression of melanogenic factors, tyrosinase and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). In addition, the level of type I procollagen in fibroblasts was analyzed, and polydatin significantly induced the production of type I procollagen in a dose-dependent manner. Finally we conformed that topical treatment of polydatin improved wrinkle and induced whitening of human skin in vivo. These data provide evidence that polydatin can be a potent candidate for the improvement of both skin wrinkle and whitening from the point of industry view.

• Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.343-349
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• 2016

Many minerals and nutrient salts are abundant in Jeju lava sea water. The objective of this study was to evaluate the skin hydration effects of Jeju lava sea water. The skin barrier serves as a protective barrier that prevents the loss of moisture. The water holding capacity and water transport of the epidermis have been proposed to be important determinants of skin hydration. Jeju lava sea water increased the mRNA expression of filaggrin and caspase-14 which is related to natural moisturizing factor (NMF) formation. Aquaporins 3 (AQP3) are proteins that facilitate the transport of water across cell membranes. Jeju lava sea water increased the mRNA expression and protein expression of AQP3. We employed a skin equivalent model to assess the efficacy of Jeju lava sea water. In a skin equivalent model, Jeju lava sea water increased the CD44 (hyaluronic acid receptor) which is related to skin hydration. From these results, we found out Jeju lava sea water maybe help to skin hydration.