• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.30 no.6
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• pp.498-504
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• 2016

In this study, to predict the effect of beach nourishment at Haeundae Beach, the waves and wave-induced currents were compared before and after beach nourishment using the XBEACH model. Representative wave conditions were determined for the data observed during 2014 (KHOA). Then, the Hs,max and Hs,1/10 values, and their prevalent directions, were used in the numerical modeling input data. A variable grid system was used for the $5km{\times}2.5km$ model areas, and irregular waves based on the JONSWAP spectrum were given as incident wave conditions. In the summer season, eastward wave-induced currents were developed along the beach by the incident wave direction. Before the beach nourishment, the maximum speed around the surf zone was 1.2-1.5 m/s in the central zone of the beach, whereas the maximum speed increased to 1.4-1.6 m/s at the same areas when the currents toward Mipo Harbor were blocked as an effect of the groins after the beach nourishment. In the winter season, westward wave-induced currents were developed along the beach by the incident wave direction. After the beach nourishment, the maximum current speed increased slightly around the surf zone in the central area of the beach, and the littoral current speed decreased at the submerged breakwaters located at Dongbaek Island. As a result, after the beach nourishment, the maximum wave-induced currents increased about 10% in the surf zone of the central area of the beach.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.661-669
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• 2000

The accurate prediction of wave-induced currents is indispensible to analyze the beach deformation due to the sediment transport or dispersion in the surf zone, which often gives rises to serious environmental problems in the coastal region. Although many numerical models have been suggested up to now, it is not easy to properly simulate wave-induced currents, in particular, over a complex topography. In order to solve these problems, we have to understand the mechanism of wave transformation and wave-induced currents, to compare results numerical models with those of field measurements, and to find the validity and the applicability of them. And, also the validity of the model has been confirmed by the field investigation.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.42 no.5
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• pp.639-650
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• 2022

In areas where large-scale sediment transport occurs, it is important to apply appropriate countermeasure method because the phenomenon tends to accelerate by time duration. Among the various countermeasure methods applied so far, beach nourishment needs to be reviewed as an erosion prevention measure because the erosion pattern is mitigated and environmentally friendly depending on the particle size. In the case of beach nourishment. a detailed review is required to determine the size, range, etc., of an appropriate particle diameter. In this study, we investigated the characteristics of the related topographic change using the change in the particle size of nourishment materials, the application of partial area, and the condition under the coexistence of waves and wind as variables because those factors are hard to be analyzed and interpreted within results and limitation of that the existing numerical models are not able to calculate and result out so that it is required that phenomenon or efforts are reviewed at the same time through physical model experiments, field monitoring and etc. So we attempt to reproduce the tendency of beach erosion and deposition and predict possible phenomena in the future using machine learning techniques for phenomena that it is not able to be interpreted by numerical models. we used the hydraulic experiment results for the training data, and the accuracy of the prediction results according to the change in the training method was simultaneously analyzed. As a result of the study it was found that topographic changes using machine learning tended to be similar to those of previous studies in short-term predictions, but we also found differences in the formation of scour and sandbars.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.369-383
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• 1993

An amended form of radiation stress is presented in the present model and the existence of the surface advection terms is verified through comparisons with wave energy equation. The model yields circulation patterns in both cross-shore and longshore directions on the plane beach slope. Comparison with laboratory experiments showed good agreements. Finally, a quasi-three dimensional model suitable for the entire nearshore zone is developed by linking the depth-integrated properties with vertical profiles.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2008.05a
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• pp.914-918
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• 2008

연안지역의 갑작스런 개발은 예상치 못한 여러 가지 문제들을 발생시키고 있다. 이와 같은 문제들 중에서 가장 심각한 문제는 해안침식이다. 해안침식은 어떤 원인에 의해 토사의 평형이 손상되어 퇴적되는 양보다 더 많은 양이 유실되면서 해안선이 점점 후퇴하는 현상이다. 해안에 쌓여 있는 모래는 태풍과 폭풍해일로부터 육지를 보호하는 완충지대의 역할을 하고, 또한 관광자원으로도 그 활용가치가 증가하고 있기 때문에 침식현상을 분석하고 침식의 발생 및 진행을 억제하기 위한 연구가 반드시 필요하다고 하겠다. 본 연구에서는 해안침식을 제어하기 위한 기초적인 연구의 일환으로 연안류에 따른 연안표사의 분포특성에 대하여 살펴보았다. 연안류는 표사 이동이 가장 활발한 쇄파대로부터 해안선 사이에서 발생하는 흐름으로 파랑에 의해 발생한다. 일정경사를 갖는 해빈에 대해 연안류를 계산하고 계산된 연안류를 Komar(1977)가 Bagnold(1963) 모형을 이용하여 파의 응력과 흐름속도의 곱의 함수로 연안표사의 분포를 나타나낸 식에 대입하여 연안류에 따른 연안표사의 분포를 계산하였다.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.163-170
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• 2013

The correlation and interaction mechanisms between marine debris and the vegetation zone were studied on the Jinu-do natural beach of the Nakdong river estuary. Laboratory wind tunnel experiments were carried out under the wind-field and bottom-sand conditions using wind tunnel test equipment to investigate the sedimentation characteristics of wind-drift sand deposition around marine debris and the vegetation zone. The major environmental factors/loads considered in this study were the motion of sand by wind on the beach, deposition of marine debris, and change in the vegetation zone/line. When the marine debris was installed in the wind tunnel, deposition at the front of the structure appeared first by wind action, and then deposition developed from behind at 70% of the front ground level. In contrast, in the case of vegetation, the deposition phenomenon appeared first from behind the vegetation zone/line, and was 60% higher than the front. When the height of the debris and vegetation was the same, the required experimental time to bury the vegetation completely was about twice that of the marine debris.

• Water for future
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.197-209
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• 1984

This study has been carried out to investigate into the local scour of wall-toe and the beach deformation caused by the construction of a seal wall. It has been performed to determine the values of the marine invertigation of HAE UN DAE and two dimensional Movable bed gydraulic model test. From the results of this work approtection method of HAE UN DAE beach erosion is established to reduce the amount of topography deformation by investigating the values of the constructive position of a sea wall, seabed slope, the maximum scour depth, the first and the second influence range, the maximum quantity of beach deformation, and the distance measured from the sea will to the maximum quantity of beach deformation.

• Journal of Korea Water Resources Association
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.13-24
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• 2002

In a physically realistic but simplified manner, an attempt is made in this study to develop a predictive model for swash hydrodynamics across the shore due to the storm waves on an arbitrary beach profile. Date from the SUPERTANK laboratory Data Collection Project are used for the model development, in which experiments were designed to simulate dune erosion under storm conditions at a prototype scale. The model predicts variations of swash height, velocity and period across the beach face in a swash zone. In general, the model proves to be capable of predicting variations of swash height, velocity and period across the shore. Quantitatively better predictions for the swash parameters could be achieved by improving the prediction of the beach face elevation, ymax, where the significant swash height becomes zero.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.28-39
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• 2019

In the design process of counter measures against the beach erosion, information like the main sediment transport mode and yearly net amount of longshore and cross shore transport is of great engineering value. In this rationale, we numerically analyzed the yearly sediment budget of the Mang-Bang beach which is suffering from erosion problem. For the case of cross sediment transport, Bailard's model (1981) having its roots on the Bagnold's energy model (1963) is utilized. In doing so, longshore sediment transport rate is estimated based on the assumption that longshore transport rate is determined by the available wave energy influx toward the beach. Velocity moments required for the application of Bailard's model (1981) is deduced from numerical simulation of the nonlinear shoaling process over the Mang-Bang beach of the 71 wave conditions carefully chosen from the wave records. As a wave driver, we used the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. by Frelich and Guza (1984). Numerical results show that contrary to the Bailard's study (1981), Irribaren NO. has non negligible influence on the velocity moments. We also proceeds to numerically simulate the yearly sediment budget of Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that for ${\beta}=41.6^{\circ}$, the mean orientation of Mang-Bang beach, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing over the south-eastwardly moving sediment, the yearly amount of which is simulated to reach its maxima at $125,000m^3/m$. And the null pint where north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is balanced by the south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is located at ${\beta}=47^{\circ}$. For the case of cross shore sediment, the sediment is gradually moving toward the shore from the April to mid October, whereas these trends are reversed by sporadically occurring energetic wind waves at the end of October and March. We also complete the littoral drift rose of the Mang-Bang beach, which shows that even though the shore line is temporarily retreated, and as a result, the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is larger than the orientation of null pont, south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. In a case that the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is smaller than the orientation of null pont, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. And these trend imply that the Mang-Bang beach is stable one, which has the self restoring capability once exposed to erosion.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.34 no.5
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• pp.1463-1476
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• 2014

In order to understand hydrodynamic and morphodynamic characteristics under wave-current interactions in an estuary, a coupled model for two-way analysis between existing 3-d numerical wave tank and newly-developed 3-d morphodynamic model has been suggested. Comparing to existing experimental results it is revealed that computed results of the newly-suggested model are in good agreement with each laboratory test result for wave height distribution, vertical flow profile and topographical change around ocean floor pipeline in wave-current coexisting field. Also the numerical result for suspended sediment concentration is verified in comparison with experimental result in solitary wave field. Finally, it is shown that the 3-D coupled Hydro-Morphodynamic model suggested in this study is applicable to morphological change under wave-current interaction in an estuary.