• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.209-220
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• 2019

Even though the scale of hard structures for beach stabilization should carefully be determined such that these structures do not interrupt the great yearly circulation process of beach sediment in which the self-healing ability of natural beach takes places, massive hard structures such as the submerged breakwater of wide-width are frequently deployed as the beach stabilization measures. On this rationale, asymmetric ripple mat by Irie et al. (1994) can be the alternatives for beach stabilization due to its small scale to replace the preferred submerged breaker of wide-width. The effectiveness of asymmetric ripple mat is determined by how effectively the vortices enforced at the contraction part of flow area over the mat traps the sediment moving toward the offshore by the run-down. In order to verify this hypothesis, we carry out the numerical simulations based on the Navier-Stokes equation and the physically-based morphology model. Numerical results show that the asymmetric ripple mat effectively capture the sediment by forced vortex enforced at the apex of asymmetric ripple mat, and bring these trapped sediments back to the beach, which has been regarded to be the driving mechanism of beach stabilization effect of asymmetric ripple mat.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.30 no.3B
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• pp.325-335
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• 2010

The aim of this study is to survey the effects of laying drainage layer in sandy beach on beach stabilization. At first, the numerical model developed by Hur and Lee (2007), which is able to consider the flow through a porous medium with inertia, laminar and turbulent resistance terms, i.e. simulate directly WAve Structure Seabed/Sandy beach interaction and can determine the eddy viscosity with LES turbulent model in 3-D wave field (LES-WASS-3D), is validated by comparing with existing experimental data. And then, numerical simulation is carried out to examine the characteristics of wave-sandy beach interaction for a beach with/without drainage layer. From the numerical results, it is shown that mean ground-water level around a foreshore decreases and offshore-ward flow over a seabed reduces in case of a beach with drainage layer. Moreover, the effects of cross profile of drainage layer and incident wave condition on mean ground-water level around a foreshore are also discussed as well the distribution of wave setup around the foreshore.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.710-718
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• 2017

After Typhoon Chaba (No.18, 2016) collided with Manseongri Beach, a coastal improvement project was carried out since strong external forces such as waves, storm surges and wave-induced currents were observed to cause beach deformation. The shoreline, beach area and beach volume were periodically surveyed. On the basis of this field data, the beach deformation that occurred at Manseongri Beach has been formally described. Over three months after beach nourishment work began, the beaches were gradually stabilized in terms of natural external forces. However, this stabilization was interrupted by Typhoon Chaba. After two months of typhoon weather, the beach returned to a stable state and no changes were observed until one year after the beach recovery work. Just after the typhoon hit, the shoreline receded from the northern side, where no reduction of external forces occurred, while the rear beach area submerged by breakwater advanced. Also, the beach volume decreased by $3,395m^3$ after the typhoon, due to erosion that occurred on the northern beach, with deposition taking place on the southern backshore area. Therefore, it has been concluded that the coastal improvement project undertaken at Manseongri Beach has significantly contributed to conservation in areas of wave-dominant sediment transport.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Marine Environment & Safety
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• v.25 no.7
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• pp.920-926
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• 2019

In this study, we analyzed the erosion variation of beach area at Haeundae Beach after coastal improvement project using video monitoring system operated by the Coastal Erosion Monitoring (Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries). Haeundae Beach was well maintained and stabilized following large scale nourishment through coastal improvement project despite of seasonal fluctuations. However, multiple typhoons over the last two years caused beach stabilization patterns and seasonal fluctuations to lost equilibrium, resulting in rapid erosion. In particular, the sandy beach was eroded by typhoon Solic and Kongray in 2018 and failed to recover beach area in winter by seasonal fluctuations. And due to multiple typhoons in 2019, the beach area was reduced 9.5 % (12,607 ㎡) year-on-year. According to analyze the observed wave and beach area data in Haeundae, the tendency of erosion and sedimentation was influenced by seasonal incident wave direction for each section(west, center and east part). Therefore, to identify the causes of decreasing seasonal fluctuation characteristics and continuous erosion, hereafter, more precise monitoring of different factors are needed, such as the crest heights of submerged breakwater and its loss of function, and sand leakage to the outside around submerged breakwater.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Fisheries Technology Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.166-167
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• 2003

파랑ㆍ흐름의 공존장에서 그 간섭작용은 Tidal inlet 와 하구부근와 같은 천해영역에서 중요한 물리적 현상이다. 이러한 파ㆍ흐름간섭현상은 파랑의 파고, 스펙트럼과 파향등을 현저하게 변화시키고, 하구와 inlet부근에 출현하는 사주(砂洲)등의 발생기구 및 해빈 안정화에 관계하는 중요한 요인이기 때문에 이에 대한 적절한 해석이 필요하다. 본 보고에서는 확장형 부시네스크방정식을 토대로 한 수치모델을 통하여 파ㆍ흐름 공존장에서의 적용성을 검토하고자 한다. (중략)

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.320-333
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• 2019

In this study, a physics-based 3D morphology model for the estimation of an erosion rate of nourished beach is newly proposed. As a hydrodynamic module, IHFOAM toolbox having its roots on the OpenFoam is used. On the other hand, the morphology model comprised a transport equation for suspended sediment, and Exner type equation derived from the viewpoint of sediment budget with the bed load being taken to accounted. In doing so, the incipient motion of sediment is determined based on the Shields Diagram, while the bottom suspended sediment concentration, the bed load transport rate is figured out using the bottom shearing stress directly calculated from the numerically simulated flow field rather than the conventional quadratic law and frictional coefficient. In order to verify the proposed morphology model, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling, breaking over the uniform beach of 1/m slope, and its ensuing morphology change. Numerical results show that the partially skewed, and asymmetric bottom shearing stresses can be successfully simulated. It was shown that sediments suspended and eroded at the foreshore by wave breaking are gradually drifted toward a shore and accumulated in the process of up-rush, which eventually leads to the formation of swash bar. It is also worth mentioning that the breaker bar formed by the sediments dragged by the back-wash flow which commences at the pinnacle of up-rush as the back-wash flow gets weakened due to the increased depth was successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.62-73
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• 2016

The variation of groundwater by wave, tide and precipitation conditions is closely related to the vegetation environment at the natural vegetation and sandy based beach, and it has a significant impact on the vegetation development and ground stabilization. In this study, the water temperature, electrical conductivity, and pressure were monitored at five observational stations normal to the Jinu-do(Island) shoreline of Nakdong river estuary from March 2012 to September 2014 (approximately 799 days) with the aim of measuring the variation in groundwater-table characteristics. The purpose of the study was to identify factors (tide, wave etc.) affecting groundwater-table variation using time series and correlation analysis, and to record spatial variations in the groundwater level and electrical conductivity as a result of storm events. The observational station in the intertidal zone was strongly affected by wave period and tide level. During the storm period, the groundwater-table and electrical conductivity were stabilized at the edge of sand dunes, vegetation, and areas of transition between freshwater and seawater.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.1
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• pp.28-39
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• 2019

In the design process of counter measures against the beach erosion, information like the main sediment transport mode and yearly net amount of longshore and cross shore transport is of great engineering value. In this rationale, we numerically analyzed the yearly sediment budget of the Mang-Bang beach which is suffering from erosion problem. For the case of cross sediment transport, Bailard's model (1981) having its roots on the Bagnold's energy model (1963) is utilized. In doing so, longshore sediment transport rate is estimated based on the assumption that longshore transport rate is determined by the available wave energy influx toward the beach. Velocity moments required for the application of Bailard's model (1981) is deduced from numerical simulation of the nonlinear shoaling process over the Mang-Bang beach of the 71 wave conditions carefully chosen from the wave records. As a wave driver, we used the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. by Frelich and Guza (1984). Numerical results show that contrary to the Bailard's study (1981), Irribaren NO. has non negligible influence on the velocity moments. We also proceeds to numerically simulate the yearly sediment budget of Mang-Bang beach. Numerical results show that for ${\beta}=41.6^{\circ}$, the mean orientation of Mang-Bang beach, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing over the south-eastwardly moving sediment, the yearly amount of which is simulated to reach its maxima at $125,000m^3/m$. And the null pint where north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is balanced by the south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is located at ${\beta}=47^{\circ}$. For the case of cross shore sediment, the sediment is gradually moving toward the shore from the April to mid October, whereas these trends are reversed by sporadically occurring energetic wind waves at the end of October and March. We also complete the littoral drift rose of the Mang-Bang beach, which shows that even though the shore line is temporarily retreated, and as a result, the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is larger than the orientation of null pont, south-eastwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. In a case that the orientation of Mang-Bang beach is smaller than the orientation of null pont, north-westwardly moving longshore sediment is prevailing. And these trend imply that the Mang-Bang beach is stable one, which has the self restoring capability once exposed to erosion.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.6
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• pp.434-449
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• 2019

In this study, we develop a new cross-shore sediment module which takes the effect of infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary layer streaming on the sediment transport into account besides the well-known asymmetry and under-tow. In doing so, the effect of individual random waves occurring during the unit observation period of 1 hr on sediment transport is also fully taken into account. To demonstrate how the individual random waves would affect the sediment transport, we numerically simulate the non-linear shoaling process of random wavers over the beach of uniform slope. Numerical results show that with the consistent frequency Boussinesq Eq. the application of which is lately extended to surf zone, we could simulate the saw-tooth profile observed without exception over the surf zone, infra-gravity waves of bound mode, and boundary-layer streaming accurately enough. It is also shown that when yearly highest random waves are modeled by the equivalent nonlinear uniform waves, the maximum cross-shore transport rate well exceeds the one where the randomness is fully taken into account as much as three times. Besides, in order to optimize the free parameter K involved in the long-shore sediment module, we carry out the numerical simulation to trace the yearly shoreline change of Mang-Bang beach from 2017.4.26 to 2018.4.20 as well, and proceeds to optimize the K by comparing the traced shoreline change with the measured one. Numerical results show that the optimized K for Mang-Bang beach would be 0.17. With K = 0.17, via yearly grand circulation process comprising severe erosion by consecutively occurring yearly highest waves at the end of October, and gradual recovery over the winter and spring by swell, the advance of shore-line at the northern and southern ends of Mang-Bang beach by 18 m, and the retreat of shore-line by 2.4 m at the middle of Mang-Bang beach can be successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation.