• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.55-60
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• 2000

This paper is descried the experimental results of beach process including storm surge and beach recovery. By testing different surge levels and durations, effects of these to shoreline change were evaluated. In addition of beach recovery were investigated experimentally. On the other hand, we proposed the method, which can be applicable to complex hydrograph such as storm surge by modifying equation proposed by Kriebel and Dean. Moreover, applicability of this method is verified by comparing computing result with experiments.

• The Korean Journal of Quaternary Research
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.1-5
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• 2000

During the last three years (1997∼2000), a research project of beach dynamic environmental process and dynamic nature of the Nobong Beach, East Sea of Korea has been carried out for a better understanding of beach cycle (winter and summer). In fact, however, this paper deals with a particular feature of beach dynamics, that is, overwash process of overwash water and its sediments. The overwash mark sediments (OMS) are analyzed to understand various textural characters.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.4
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• pp.209-220
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• 2019

Even though the scale of hard structures for beach stabilization should carefully be determined such that these structures do not interrupt the great yearly circulation process of beach sediment in which the self-healing ability of natural beach takes places, massive hard structures such as the submerged breakwater of wide-width are frequently deployed as the beach stabilization measures. On this rationale, asymmetric ripple mat by Irie et al. (1994) can be the alternatives for beach stabilization due to its small scale to replace the preferred submerged breaker of wide-width. The effectiveness of asymmetric ripple mat is determined by how effectively the vortices enforced at the contraction part of flow area over the mat traps the sediment moving toward the offshore by the run-down. In order to verify this hypothesis, we carry out the numerical simulations based on the Navier-Stokes equation and the physically-based morphology model. Numerical results show that the asymmetric ripple mat effectively capture the sediment by forced vortex enforced at the apex of asymmetric ripple mat, and bring these trapped sediments back to the beach, which has been regarded to be the driving mechanism of beach stabilization effect of asymmetric ripple mat.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.320-333
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• 2019

In this study, a physics-based 3D morphology model for the estimation of an erosion rate of nourished beach is newly proposed. As a hydrodynamic module, IHFOAM toolbox having its roots on the OpenFoam is used. On the other hand, the morphology model comprised a transport equation for suspended sediment, and Exner type equation derived from the viewpoint of sediment budget with the bed load being taken to accounted. In doing so, the incipient motion of sediment is determined based on the Shields Diagram, while the bottom suspended sediment concentration, the bed load transport rate is figured out using the bottom shearing stress directly calculated from the numerically simulated flow field rather than the conventional quadratic law and frictional coefficient. In order to verify the proposed morphology model, we numerically simulate the nonlinear shoaling, breaking over the uniform beach of 1/m slope, and its ensuing morphology change. Numerical results show that the partially skewed, and asymmetric bottom shearing stresses can be successfully simulated. It was shown that sediments suspended and eroded at the foreshore by wave breaking are gradually drifted toward a shore and accumulated in the process of up-rush, which eventually leads to the formation of swash bar. It is also worth mentioning that the breaker bar formed by the sediments dragged by the back-wash flow which commences at the pinnacle of up-rush as the back-wash flow gets weakened due to the increased depth was successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation.

• The Korean Journal of Quaternary Research
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.27-39
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• 1993

The shingle beach as a typical pocket beach located in Jeongdo-ri, Wando, Cheolanam-do, Korea has been investigated in terms of textural characteristics, mainly gravel shape and roundness. In the Jeongdo-ri gravel beach, changes of beach profile after storm weather and textural parameters of gravels were observed and measured from May 1992 to March 1993. Beach profile is divided into two different Fair-weather zone and Storm-weather zone influenced by dynamic condition of wave energy. The former is affected by wave and tide under fair-weather condition, the latter seems to be formed under storm-weather condition. Each zone comprises a series of beach faces and berms formed by continuous sedimentary processes of swash, overwash and backwash. Storm-weather zone is subdivided into three groups having a pair of beach face and berm respectively. Mean sizes of berm gravel(45.5 mm -123.6 mm) are coarser than gravels of beach face (36.8 mm - 78.3 mm) in fair-weather zone. On the other hand, in storm-weather zone, gravels of berms (33.1 mm -82.5 mm) are finer than those of beachfaces (46.2 mm - 105.2 mm). The proportion of disc shaped gravels of berm (50.0% - 58.5 %) is higher than that of beachface (45.9 % - 51.3 %) in each subzone except C-group of storm-weather zone. And the proportion of the equant shaped gravel increases about up to 10% seaward. Therefore, shore-normal distribution of gravels seems to be affected by shape and size sorting effects. Shore-parallel distribution pattern of gravel shape is more distinctive than size distribution patterns. That is, disc and blade shaped particles decrease up to 20% and 13% respectively, and equants increase up to 34% to the westward. Gravels plotted on Sneed and Folk's triangular diagram are more compacted and elongated with decreasing size. Therefore primary gravels are shaped by characteristics of country rock e.g. cleavage, joint etc., and secondary are affected by sorting and size-controlled process evolution by wave action.

• Journal of the Korean earth science society
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.37-45
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• 2019

In spite of continued nourishments, Haeundae Beach in Busan has been suffering from erosion, this being caused by the increased wave energy due to global warming and intermittent typhoon reported by previous works. In the meantime, the typhoon Chaba hit Basan in October 2016. In order to investigate the effects of the typhoon in beach erosion and how fast the beach recovered after the typhoon, repeated beach profiling using a VRS-GPS system was carried out, and the grain size analyses for surface sediments sampled on the beach were conducted. Immediately after the typhoon invasion, Haeundae beach was eroded by 1.4 m in average height. The mean high tide lines were retreated back by 12 m, and beach slope became gentler from $3.8^{\circ}$ to $1.7^{\circ}$. The mean grain sizes of surface sediments became coarser from $1.6{\Phi}$ to $1.2{\Phi}$ after two months, and the sorting well sorted. After two months of typhoon landfall, the mean high tide lines have recovered by 85%, and the beach topography almost recovered. This suggests that the impact of typhoons on Haeundae beach erosion is negligible, and the relaxation time is shorter than that of other beaches.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.21-25
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• 2003

해안단애의 형성과 침식에 의한 해안선의 후퇴를 저지하기 위해 방조벽을 설치하여 해빈의 침식 변화과정에 관한 수치모의를 수행하였다. 평균수위의 상승을 동반하는 폭풍해일이 내습하는 경우 평균수위의 상승이 방조벽의 세굴을 가속화시킨다. 그러므로 본 연구는 사빈 해안에 방조벽을 설치하는 경우 해빈 침식의 거동을 예측하는데 이용할 수 있겠다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.101-109
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• 2008

Several numerical models for predicting beach profile changes have been developed by many researchers. Many of the earlier models are known to simulate the erosional profiles with the formation of offshore bar. However, most of the models don't have proper mechanism to incorporate the recovery process of the eroded profiles after a storm and can not simulate the beach accretion with acceptable accuracy. In order to overcome these shortcomings, we propose a new numerical model which has new features to simulate the accretional phase of beach recovery process after storm including such as redistribution of suspended sand particles near the breaking point. The simulation results of the proposed model were compared with LWT (Large Wave Tank) experiments performed at CRIEPI (Central Research Institute of Electric Power Industry in Japan) and CE (the Us Army Corps of Engineers) and it was shown to have performed better compared to SBEACH (Storm-induced BEAch CHange).

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.265-277
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• 2019

Using the measured data of waves and shore-line, we reviewed the grand circulation process and seasonal variation of beach cusp at the Mang-Bang beach from the perspective of trapped mode Edge waves known as the driving mechanism of beach cusp. In order to track the temporal and spatial variation trends of beach cusp, we quantify the beach cusp in terms of its wave length and amplitude detected by threshold crossing method. In doing so, we also utilize the spectral analysis method and its associated spectral mean sand wave number. From repeated period of convergence and ensuing splitting of sand waves detected from the yearly time series of spectral mean sand wave number of beach cusp, it is shown that the grand circulation process of beach cusp at Mang-Bang beach are occurring twice from 2017. 4. 26 to 2018. 4. 20. For the case of beach area, it increased by $14,142m^2$ during this period, and the shore-line advanced by 18 m at the northen and southern parts of the Mang-Bang beach whereas the shore-line advanced by 2.4 m at the central parts of Mang-Bang beach. It is also worthy of note that the beach area rapidly increased by $30,345m^2$ from 2017.11.26. to 2017.12.22. which can be attributed to the nature of coming waves. During this period, mild swells of long period were prevailing, and their angle of attack were next to zero. These characteristics of waves imply that the main transport mode of sediment would be the cross-shore. Considering the facts that self-healing capacity of natural beaches is realized via the cross-shore sediment once temporarily eroded. it can be easily deduced that the sediment carried by the boundary layer streaming toward the shore under mild swells which normally incident toward the Mang-Bang beach makes the beach area rapidly increase from 2017.11.26. to 2017.12.22.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.69-84
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• 2020

Natural shoreline repeats its re-treatment and advance in response to the endlessly varying sea-conditions, and once severely eroded under stormy weather conditions, natural beaches are gradually recovered via a boundary layer streaming when swells are prevailing after storms cease. Our understanding of the boundary layer streaming over surf-zone often falls short despite its great engineering value, and here it should be noted that the most sediments available along the shore are supplied over the surf-zone. In this rationale, numerical simulation was implemented to investigate the hydraulic characteristics of boundary layer streaming over the surf zone in this study. In doing so, comprehensive numerical models made of Spatially filtered Navier-Stokes Eq., LES (Large Eddy Simulation), Dynamic Smagorinsky turbulence closure were used, and the effects of turbulence closure such as Dynamic Smagorinsky in LES and k-ε on the numerically simulated flow field were also investigated. Numerical results show that due to the intrinsic limits of k-ε turbulence model, numerically simulated flow velocity near the bottom based on k-ε model and wall function are over-predicted than the one using Dynamic Smagorinsky in LES. It is also shown that flow velocities near the bottom are faster than the one above the bottom which are relatively free from the presence of the bottom, complying the typical boundary layer streaming by Longuet-Higgins (1957), the spatial scope where boundary layer streaming are occurring is extended well into the surf zone as incoming waves are getting longer. These tendencies are plausible considering that it is the bottom friction that triggers a boundary layer streaming, and longer waves start to feel the bottom much faster than shorter waves.