• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.1-20
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• 2010

This thesis is about "manggon" that holds down man's top knot hair and its accessaries "pungjam", "kwanja". manggon was seen first time in the mural of Donwhang kae won chon bo during T'ang period (713-756). The "Tu Aek Ra" manggon shown in this mural would be the origin and beginning of maggon's usage. Also the "Sha" that was placed on top of the hair for decoration purpose is believed to be a former form of "manggon" Before the short hair cut was enforced, wearing the "kwan"(head gear) was considered as an impotant etiguette. Thus the head gear was treasured and the manggon which was the most essential piece to cover down the hair before to put on the head gear was regarded as the most important piece. However, since the manggon was tied very tightly around the forehead, manggon caused some sickness. From my private collections of man's head gears and ornament, 121 items were selected and used for analysis and the followings were found: 1. Pungjam was divided into 8 categories according to its shape and a research was made on its unique structural characteristic on each categories. 2. Kwanja's material and design that were used are all in accordance to the historical recordings.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.34 no.6
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• pp.459-470
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• 2018

Cellulose nitrates were used for folklore artifacts(ornamental beads and pipes in hatstrings, frames of eyeglasses, ornamental eyeglass cases, headband ornaments, and jeogori buttons) between the 19th and 20th centuries; however, they are susceptible to cracking, crazing, embrittlement, and crumbling due to deterioration. To consolidate and adhere deteriorated cellulose nitrate folklore artifacts, water-soluble acrylic emulsion adhesives were investigated. For consolidation, Plextol D 498, which has the lowest viscosity in low concentrations, was used. In adhesive films whose glass transition temperature(Tg) is lower than room temperature, the tensile stress and modulus decreased and the strain increased; therefore, the flexibility was high. The Plextol D 498 and Plextol D 498 and Dispersion K 52 films maintained their adhesiveness and flexibility after artificial-sunlight-accelerated ageing, and Plextol D 498 and Dispersion K 52 films hardly caused yellowing. Plextol D 498 was the most stable for accelerating ageing. A low concentration of Plextol D 498 emulsion resulted in the best permeability on the surface of cellulose nitrate, compared with other acrylic emulsions. To prevent ornamental hatstrings from cracking, crazing, embrittlement, and crumbling, a Plextol D 498 emulsion was used. After applying low concentrations(1%, 3%) of the emulsion to consolidate the fragments and high concentration to adhere the fragments, the ornamental hatstrings were protected from crumbling by deterioration, and their fragments were well-adhered. To preserve it from deterioration by oxygen and humidity, the treated ornament was sealed with an oxygen-barrier film using a low-humidity oxygen scavenger.