• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.123-139
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• 2001

본고는 공간, 시간, 계급, 종교 등 하위문화 텍스트의 병행인용 즉 상호텍스트성(intertextuality)을 통해, 20세기 대중 문화의 상징 마돈나 뮤직 비디오와 공연 등의 인체, 의상, 이미지 등에 나타난 포스트모던 정체성을 연구함으로써, 현대 미디어 문화를 관통하는 주체적 여성 정체성과 미적 주관성을 이해하고자한다. 첫째, 상호공간텍스트성 복식은 스패니쉬룩. 태국룩. 게이샤룩, 테크노펑크룩, 테크노 카우걸룩 등의 동서양의 지리적 소외감을 통해 비권위적 다양한 시선을 제시함으로써, 다국적 자본주의와 함께 확장된 미적 체험을 하게 한다.; 둘째, 상호시간텍스트성 복식은 중세 엠파이어 드레스, 18세기 로코코시대의 robe'a la francaise, 미래적 제 3의 종 룩 등 동시적 몽환적 이미지를 통해 유희적 유토피아를 지향하였다.; 셋째, 상호계급텍스트성 복식은 그라피티룩, 펑크룩, 키치룩, 먼로 룩, 보깅(voguing), 에비타 룩 등 상하류층, 하위문화, 빈부, 권력의 유무를 병행인용하여, 좋은/나쁜 취향, 창녀/성녀 이분법을 해체하고 반부르조아적 저항과 물질주의를 찬양하는 탈계급적, 양면적 정체성을 구축하였다. ; 넷째, 상호종교텍스트성 복식은 상징적 가부장인 카톨릭교 텍스트를 인용하여 펑키크리스찬 룩, 에로틱 크리스찬 룩 등의 선/악, 신성성/관능성, 미추, 정숙성/비정숙성의 이분법, 비장미를 해체함으로써 예술의 자율성, 무의식이 강조된 쾌락주의적, 반권위주의적 정체성을 주장한다. 섹슈얼리티에 있어, 시선, 권력, 쾌락의 주체가 됨으로써, 미적 범주에 있어 선악, 미추, 정숙성과 비정숙성의 이분법을 해체함으로써, 유동적 자아를 구성한 마돈나 의상의 포스트모던 정체성은 여성에게 확대된 가능성을 제공하며 내부로부터 해체된 열린 복식을 지향한다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.63-79
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• 2022

This study investigated the phenomenon of modern people enjoying tattoo culture in Korea from the perspective of post subculture. A qualitative study was conducted using both literature review and in-depth interview methods. For post-subculture perspectives, the theories of Maffesoli (2017) and Thornton (1996), which are suitable for interpreting contemporary tattoo culture, were reviewed in terms of seven concepts: sporadic network, grouping, fluid participation, temporary emotional bond, self-distinction, pursuit of underground culture, and display and concealment. Semi-structured questionnaires were constructed and administered based on the organized characteristics. Five cultural qualities of the tattoo phenomenon in Korea were derived based on post-subculture concepts. Sporadic formation is related to the pattern of inflow into tattoo culture, and "streaming" participation is based on fluid participation and temporary ties. Distinction within subculture is based on self-distinction and pursuit of underground. The costume-playing ordinary concept includes the characteristic of controlling the exposure of tattoos in society. Finally, formation of the consumer tattoo market was newly discovered in Korean tattoo culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.6
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• pp.85-99
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• 2001

본 연구에서는 유니섹스 영 캐주얼웨어의 국내브랜드를 중심으로 고찰한 후 그 디자인 특성에 대해 살펴보고 한 시대의 패션현상을 규명하고자 하는데 그 목적이 있다. 연구방법은 국내 패션시장의 유니섹스 영 캐주얼웨어에 대한 디자인 특성을 살펴보기 위해 신세대의 하위문화와 국내브랜드 시장조사를 통한 유니섹스 영 캐주얼웨어의 동향에 대한 일반적 고찰을 한 후 영 캐주얼웨어의 브랜드를 디자인의 차이에 따라 분류하고, 그 디자인 특성을 컬러, 소재, 스타일, 아이템별로 구분하여 분석하였다. '00 S/S, '00 F/W의 유니섹스 영 캐주얼웨어 브랜드를 중심으로 고찰해 보고자 패션 정보잡지와 인터넷의 패션사이트를 검색하였다. 유니섹스 영 캐주얼웨어의 브랜드별 시장조사를 통한 그 결과는 다음과 같다. 1. 영상매체, 대중음악. 스포츠, 스타문화로 나타난 신세대의 하위문화는 탈중심성, 탈국경화, 의미의 해체 등의 포스트모던적 문화현상이며. 유니섹스 영 캐주얼웨어는 자유와 개성을 추구하는 신세대의 라이프 스타일을 잘 반영한 하위문화의 복식양식으로서 현대 패션에 영향을 미치고 있다. 2. 기성복업체는 신세대가 가지고 있는 새로운 욕구와 감성을 겨냥한 브랜드를 개발하고 판매촉진을 위해 전력을 다하는 과정에서 신세대의 하위문화를 반영한 유니섹스 영 캐주얼웨어의 일반적인 복식양식을 형성하였다. 3. 국내시장의 유니섹스 영 캐주얼웨어는 디자인 특성에 따라 컴포터블 캐주얼웨어, 스포츠 캐주얼웨어, 힙합 캐주얼웨어로 구분된다.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.83-98
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• 2022

This study identified the characteristics of the subculture aspects that led to the success of luxury brands and analyzed the implications of those aspects. For this, semantic analysis in a socio-cultural context was performed. Additionally, this study took the theoretical background, the change in subculture and post-subculture, the digital youth generation, and the change in the meaning of subculture style into consideration. The subculture style aspect and its meaning in luxury fashion brands were analyzed as follows: First, there are challenges that betray the legitimacy or values of luxury brands. Through this, the brand gained recognition and increased sales, and the designer gained a reputation as an innovative creative director. It can be seen that more successful branding was promoted by securing a more subcultured fandom. Second, by combining subculture image fragments, these brands cater to the diverse tastes of a myriad of subcultures. This maximizes commercial profits. Third, most promotional marketing activities are collaborative and done digitally, which allows for a wider customer base, but the difference is in digital capabilities. Limited editions or application use on social networks can act as another driver. It is said that the distinction in high-priced luxury brands is not only driven by economic power but also by sub-cultural capital and digital ability.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.14-25
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• 2018

This study is to understand subculture as a selective amity or an emotional tribe that includes a life style, hobby and leisure of people and seeing it as the tribal solidarity or emotional alliance. Hence, based on the neo-tribalism by Michel Maffesoli who explains a tribe not composing a social vertical structure represented by class, but is composed a horizontal structure of individuals as a member of a society, this study conducted an empirical analysis on domestic minor fashion communities. Research findings show that they have a unique structure unexplained by Maffesoli. Fashion styles, values shared by domestic minor fashion communities are almost entirely based on individual likes and dislikes, escaping from a symbol of resistance to subordination explained by the existing subculture, play a role in enhancing the solidarity inside the community and confirming its identity outside. However, as for shared values within a community, it reveals a new invisible type of subculture intra-inter domestic minor fashion communities. A community showed a closed mind rather than open mind, disregarding or comparing with other communities and preventing their members from participation. A community had strict fashion rules and obvious classes, leading to participatory restriction. In conclusion, domestic minor fashion communities showed the most significant characteristic of a selective vertical structure by individual and community rather than a vertical structure by a society.

• The Korean Journal of Archival Studies
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• no.36
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• pp.69-119
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• 2013

The local history research started from the 1960's postmodernism neted in the local history as the subject of diversity instead of National history. The local is being magnified as a new research theme among history scholar. In these circumstances, the local history research shows sign of activity and the movement that used in various ways at education has become more active. Compared to the contents business of local history, development of education contents what serviced for student is insufficient. Therefore, this research suggests development plan of local history education contents using archives which efficient tool of history education. Students can grow the ability of historical inquiry, thinking, insight through archives-assisted learning. Also, self-learning is possible instead of a lecture by teacher. This research shows a development of archival contents for local history education though literature research, abroad case analysis, focus group interview with history teachers. Concepts of the local history, local history education, education contents are examined at literature research. Local history education of the State Archives of the United States of America, the United Kingdom, Australia web site is analyzed. These state archives have been providing the web based service of archival contents for local history education for a long time. With these theoretical background, carry out a focus group interview with middle school history teachers. It draw conclusion that 14 category and 35 subcategory and these are reflected in the development of archival contents for local history education.