• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.95-102
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• 1996

The skewness of near-bottom velocity distribution caused by the nonlinear interaction of the second order waves proposed by Wells (1967) has been re-evaluated. The direction of cross-shore sediment transport was related to the sign of the third moment (skewness) of velocity distribution, and a new concept of neutral depth which can explain the recovery of beach equilibrium after a disturbance is suggested. The seasonal change of beach profile due to the change of wave condition (storm-swell profile) is interpreted in terms of nonlinear interaction of the waves rather than the conventional wave steepness. The beach is eroded (storm profile) when the nonlinear interaction of the waves is strong (storm wave), whereas the beach is accreted (swell profile) when the nonlinear interaction is weak (swell wave).

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.19-26
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• 2000

A numerical model is applied for predicting two-dimensional beach and dune erosion during severe storms. The model uses equation of sediment continuity and dynamic equation, governing the on-offshore sediment transport due to a disequilibrium of wave energy dissipation. And the model also uses sediment transport rate parameter K from dimensional analysis instead of that recommended by Kriebel. During a storm, a beach profile evolves to a form where the depth at the surf zone is related to the distance seaward of the waterline. In general, the erosion in the beach profile is found to be sensitive to equilibrium profile parameter, sediment transport rate parameter, storm surge level and breaking wave height.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.101-109
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• 2008

Several numerical models for predicting beach profile changes have been developed by many researchers. Many of the earlier models are known to simulate the erosional profiles with the formation of offshore bar. However, most of the models don't have proper mechanism to incorporate the recovery process of the eroded profiles after a storm and can not simulate the beach accretion with acceptable accuracy. In order to overcome these shortcomings, we propose a new numerical model which has new features to simulate the accretional phase of beach recovery process after storm including such as redistribution of suspended sand particles near the breaking point. The simulation results of the proposed model were compared with LWT (Large Wave Tank) experiments performed at CRIEPI (Central Research Institute of Electric Power Industry in Japan) and CE (the Us Army Corps of Engineers) and it was shown to have performed better compared to SBEACH (Storm-induced BEAch CHange).

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.55-60
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• 2000

This paper is descried the experimental results of beach process including storm surge and beach recovery. By testing different surge levels and durations, effects of these to shoreline change were evaluated. In addition of beach recovery were investigated experimentally. On the other hand, we proposed the method, which can be applicable to complex hydrograph such as storm surge by modifying equation proposed by Kriebel and Dean. Moreover, applicability of this method is verified by comparing computing result with experiments.

• Journal of the Korean Geographical Society
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• v.50 no.2
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• pp.147-164
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• 2015

This study analyzed characteristics and tendencies of seasonal change on shoreline and beach with 8 beaches at East Sea coast by topographical survey for 2 years from March 2012 to February 2013. The shorelines of East Sea coast appeared that amount of seasonal change was bigger than amount of annual change. The seasonal change tendencies between Gangwon-do and Gyeongsangbuk-do coast areas existed some regional differences. To synthesize seasonal changes on 8 beaches of East Sea coast, shoreline advance and beach deposit showed clearly in summer and shoreline retreat and beach erosion showed clearly in autumn. This result is different from tendencies of seasonal change in many mid-latitude coast areas of the world, but generally corresponds with reference studies in west coast and east coast. The major factor of beach erosion showing mostly in summer is storm wave caused by typhoon. The beach erosion by storm wave also occurred in late winter. And it assumes that the beach deposit showing mostly in autumn is result of equilibrium processes of coast area against strong erosion in summer.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.197-206
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• 2014

The purpose of this study is to evaluate coastal erosion due to a sea-level rise. The shoreline retreat rate was calculated due to future sea-level rise. Shoreline retreat rates were quantified with the cross-sectional data of 23 sandy coasts (12 sites from east coast, 5 sites from south coast, and 6 sites of west coast) and 3 cross-sectional profiles from each side of the coasts in Korea. The theory of equilibrium beach profile was employed in this study to evaluate the applicability of the theory into the coast of Korea and was tested with 15 cross-sectional beach profiles. Four scenarios of future sea level rise such as 38 cm, 59 cm, 75 cm, and 100 cm were adopted to estimate the shoreline retreat rates. Overall shoreline retreat rates for the coasts in Korea were predicted as 43.7% for 38 cm, 60.3% for 59 cm, 69.2% for 75 cm, and 80.1% for 100 cm sea level rises, respectively. Retreat rates in the east coast (29.6% for 38 cm, 45.1% for 59 cm, 56.0% for 75 cm, and 69.9% for 100 cm) showed relatively low compared to the south coast (51.9%, 67.6%, 77.2%, 87.3%) and the west coast (53.8%, 71.0%, 78.5%, 86.4%). However, all sandy coasts in Korea were assessed to be vulnerable with increasing sea-level rise. There are uncertainties in the assessment of this study, which include the limitation of the assessment model and the lack of the spatio-temporal data of the beach profiles. Therefore, this study shows that it is very important to spend integrated efforts to respond coastal erosion including comprehensive observations(monitoring) and the development of scientific understanding on the field.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.116-122
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• 2018

Dean's equilibrium beach profile formula was used to investigate the correlation between the static shoreline position and the incident wave energy. The effect of the longshore sediment transport was neglected, and the results showed the reasonable agreement compared with the field observations of Yates et al.(2009), which were conducted for almost 5 years on southern California beaches, USA. The shoreline response varies with the scale factor of Dean's equilibrium beach profile. This implies that the shoreline response could be simply estimated using the sampled grain size without laborious long-term field work. Therefore, the present study results are expected to be practically used for the layout design of submerged or exposed detached breakwaters although the further work is required for performance verification. In addition, after laborous mathematical reviews, the linear relation between incident energy and shoreline response, which was obtained from Yates's field study, yielded a clear mathematical equation showing how the beach slope is related to the grain size.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.34-40
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• 1999

Models of beach response due to sea level rise were verified by experiments and potential shoreline retreat around Korea and Japan was predicted. Wave tank experiments demonstrated that not only static retreat by water level rise but also additional retreat by wave action plays an important role in total retreat and additional retreat becomes important on the condition of high waves. The result of long-term analysis of tidal data over past 3 decades shows the tendency toward rise by an average of 1.79 mm/year, which is the result of rise in 29 regions and fall in 12 regions. Based on analyzed rate of long-term sea-level rise, potential shoreline retreats of study area after 50 years were calculated and the result shows serious loss of beach.

• Proceedings of the Mineralogical Society of Korea Conference
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• 2001.06a
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• pp.115-115
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• 2001

경주시 양남면의 4기 단층으로 추정되는 수렴단층에 의해 절단되는 해안단구 퇴적층 풍화단면에서 저결정질 광물인 앨로패인 교결층을 기재하였다. 이들은 자갈퇴적층 내에 협재하는 수조의 모래층에 한정되어 형성되어 있으며, 3-17 cm 두께로 연장성이 매우 좋다. 편광현미경 관찰에 의하면 모래층에는 사장석편들이 다량 함유되어 있으며 앨로패인은 광학적 등방성의 치밀한 점토집합체들로서 사장석 입자를 선택적으로 교대하거나 자갈과 모래입자들을 피복하고 있다. 앨로패인은 광학적 이방성인 상하위층의 고령토질 점토피복물과 명확히 구분된다. 앨로패인의 전자현미분석에 의하면, Al/Si 원자비가 1.3-1.7 범위이고 평균값은 1.5이다. X선회절분석 결과 3.49$\AA$과 2.26$\AA$에서 두 개의 넓은 회절대가 관찰된다. 주사 및 투과전자현미경관찰에 의하면 앨로패인을 특정한 입자형태 없이 치밀한 겔상태를 이루고 있다. 열분석에 의하면 96$^{\circ}C$에서 큰 흡열피크와 992$^{\circ}C$에서 발열피크가 관찰되며, 총 45% 정도의 중량감소를 보인다. 사장석의 평균조성은 An$_{87}$이며, 사장석내 유리포유물의 전자현미분석결과는 화산암 화학분류도에서 현무암 영역에 도시된다. 이 지역의 기반암은 현무암질 라필리응회암이나 사장석편을 제외하고 벤토나이트화되어 있다. 따라서 해빈환경에서 사장석이 벤토나이트에서 분리되어 퇴적한 것으로 보인다. 앨로패인 교결층은 해수면 강하로 단구퇴적층이 지표로 노출된 후, Al의 함량이 높고 비교적 풍화에 약한 사장석이 선택적으로 풍화되어 생성되었다. 앨로패인으로 피복된 모래층 내의 자갈은 풍화반응이 지체되어 상하위층의 자갈과 비교하여 풍화도에 있어서 현저한 차이를 보인다.. 파이프 중심에서 외곽부로 갈수록 전기석의 함량은 줄어들고 있고 장석들이 알바이트ㆍ칼스베드 쌍정을 보이며, 흑운모가 각섬석보다는 우세하게 나타나고 있다. 전기석은 주상 결정, 자형 내지 반자형의 입자로 다색성을 보이며, 결정 중심에서 가장자리로 갈수록 파란색과 황갈색의 광학적 누대구조를 관찰할 수 있다. 일광광산에서 산출되는 전기석에 대한 현미경 관찰은 열수기원임을 지시하고 있다. 야외조사와 현미경 관찰의 예비조사에 의하면 일광광산의 전기석이 형성된 환경은 다른2가지 화학적인 저장소의 혼합 효과의 결과로 생성되어진 것으로 예상된다. 일광의 화강암류를 만든 마그마는 전기석을 형성할 만큼의 Fe-Mg성분이 충분하지 않았을 것이다. 화강암 내에 흑운모와 각섬석의 결정작용에 의해 마그마의 Fe-Mg성분이 고갈되어지고 이로 인해 그 함량이 감소하며 상대적으로 마그마 내에 남은 붕소(B$_2$O$_3$)는 열수로 용리되고 흑운모, 각섬석과 평형을 유지하며 열수에 남아있게 된다. 잔류용융체에 남은 붕소의 함량은 전기석을 만들기에 충분함에도 불구하고, Fe-Mg 함량이 부족하여 마그마 기원의 전기석 결정을 만들 수가 없다가 광맥이 형성된 시기에 또 다른 열수가 공급되면서 이전의 평형이 깨지고 기존의 흑운모와 같은 염기성 광물이 붕소(B)를 함유한 새로운 열수와 반응하여 전기석을 형성한 것으로 예상한다. 앞으로 전암과 광물에 대해 지화학적 연구를 통해 화강암류와 전기석과의 지화학적 연관성, 주성분 원소와 열수의 특성과의 상관관계, 전기석의 기원(마그마 기원인지 열수기원인지)이 보다 정확하게 파악될 것이다. 마그마 진화에 따른 전기석의 성분변화와 기원을 이용하여 일광광산의 동광화대를 형성한 마그마 계에서 열수계로 이어지는 지질학적 과정을 이해할 수 있을 것이며, 암석 성인론적 지시자로서