• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.289-299
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to develop slacks pattern for obesity women through comparing the flat pattern with the draping pattern. The results were as follows: 1. In the result of the comparative investigation on pattern and sensory evaluation, it was found that the draping pattern had better comfort and appearance. Especially, as the lower part of the body is more obese and the expansion ratio of the body is higher, the draping pattern was superior to the flat pattern in the sensory evaluation. 2. In the result of sensory evaluation, it was found that the proper ease of total crotch length was $2{\sim}3%$ of actual total crotch length.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.53-61
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to compare the flat pattern with the draping pattern for the jacket. The results of this study were as follows: 1) According to the sensory evaluation for the movement, P2 flat pattern was more comfortable than the draping pattern at 88-94(N)-160 (77size). 2) The sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the draping pattern was superior to the flat pattern for the collar at 82-90(N)-160(55size), 85-92(N)-160(66size) and 88-94(N)-160(77size). 3) The draping pattern was superior to the flat pattern in the sensory evaluation for the front and back. 4) Lee Hyung-Suck's flat pattern (P1) was better in appearance than the P2 and the draping pattern (P3) for the side sensory evaluation at 82-90(N)-160(55size) and 85-92(N)-160(66size).

• 복식문화연구
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.208-218
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• 2003

The purpose of the study is to identify the designers' and the patterner's pattern making, draping and the use of dress form in domestic companies of designer's brand to present basic information for effective pattern works. It turned out that the designer brand companies at home use flat pattern and draping at the same time rather than draping only The effects of the use of draping lies in unique designs and elastic materials, which seems proper phenomena for the current design trend such as high duality and diversification. But, draping has such problems that the pattern takes long time to be finished and that the staffs don't acquire well the needed skills due to the lack of draping education. To secure the high added value of fashion, it is required to develop education programs for new skills and to apply draping actively. Also, it requires an educational system in which practice oriented skills are cultivated, and efficient investment into apparel business.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권3호
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• pp.399-403
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• 2004

대학에서 의류학과 교육은 그 목적에 따라 다양하나 의복구성은 의복제작과정을 이해하는데 필요한 것으로 의복디자인분야 부터 품질관리에 이르기까지 기본과목으로 되어있다. 의복제작은 인체의 이해에 따른 기본원형의 설계로 시작된다. 기본원형은 활용이 다양하여 모든 종목의 의복 패턴 제작이 가능해야 한다. 또한 각 인체 치수에 맞는 사이즈를 등급화하여 초보자라도 누구나 활용할 수 있는 기본원형을 설계하는 것이 필요하다. 따라서 본 연구는 20대 초반의 대학생을 대상으로 입체재단 방법에 의한 기본원형을 제작하여 등급별로 표준화된 치수를 산출하고 연구된 평면재단 방법에 의한 길의 기본원형을 비교 검정하여 적합성을 비교하였다. 석고법에 의하여 제작된 인체모형에서 드레이핑된 기본원형과 연구된 평면재단 방법에 의한 기본원형을 비교 검정한 결과 5단계로 치수를 등급화 하였다. 착장평가 결과 다양한 체형에 만족힌 결과를 얻어 의복구성을 시작하는 초보자들에게 활용하여 교육할 수 있으리라 기대한다.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.30-46
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• 2018

The purpose of the study was to suggest certain measurements of the skirt block pattern drafting process for the Korean female fashion models, with the aim to improve its fit. For this purpose, the study carried out an analysis of the lower body features of a dress form developed for the study. This form was representative of Korean female fashion models' body features. The study performed a cross-sectional analysis at waist and hip levels and measured the angles from the frontal and lateral silhouettes of the dress forms. The comparisons of the skirt block patterns developed through draping by the use of 2 types of the dress forms developed and existed and through drafting according to the current patternmaking method have led to noticeable findings in terms of implementation of the skirt block drafting process for the Korean female fashion models. The results of the study are as follows: (1) the vertical lengths between the levels at the front waist point and the side waist point in the patterns are 0.7cm; (2) the vertical length between the levels at the front waist point and the back waist point in the back panel is 0.7cm; (3) the horizontal lengths between the perpendicular line from the side hip point and the side waist point in patterns are within a range of 2.0 to 2.2cm; (4) the horizontal length between the original and the adjusted back waist points moved into the waist line, in a range of 0.0 to 1.0cm, differs whether the center back line would be folded or sewn.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.309-320
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to develope a pattern drafting method for various somatotype which contribute largely to increase the fitness and comfort of garments. This study had 8 subjects who were college girls who had prominent somatic characteristics. The study was carried out by the following procedures. 1. The 8 subjects who had prominent somatic characteristics were cheesed by photograph- ing. The somatotypes of 8 subjects were classified into Standard somatotype, Turning over somatotype, Bending somatotype and Turning over-Bending somatotype. 2. Under the criterion of the body surface development, the comparative investigation on the pattern and the sensory evaluation were accomplished in the flat pattern method and the draping pattern method. 3. The body surface development of them were made by the draping pattern method. 4. In the result of the comparative investigation and the sensory evaluation, it was found that the flat pattern had better appearance and comfort than the draping pattern, and the draping pattern included more somatic characteristics than the flat pattern. 5. On the basis of those result, the pattern drafting method according to the somatotype was indicated and it was examinated by the clothing experiment. 6. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the new basic pattern for four somatotype by comparing it with the conventional basic pattern (Rim, won ja' 5). The result of the sensory evaluation, it was found that the new basic pattern was more suitable for each somatotype than the conventional basic pattern.

• 한국전산구조공학회논문집
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.457-464
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• 1999

본 논문의 목적은 막구조물의 형상해석, 응력-변형 해석, 재단도 해석을 수행하는 것이고, 재료는 선형탄성, 응력은 평면응력의 상태로 가정한다. 케이블 및 막구조물은 외력에 대한 변형이 매우 큰 구조물이기 때문에 기하비선형을 고려한 비선형해석을 하여야 한다 해석은 일반적인 구조물과는 달리 다음의 3단계로 구성된다. 첫 번째 단계는 초기 평형형상을 결정하기 위한 형상해석이고, 두 번째 단계는 다양한 외력이 가해졌을 때 구조물의 거동을 파악하는 응력-변형 해석이다. 이렇게 하여 일단 만족된 형상이 얻어지면 형상해석에서 얻은 결과를 기초로 하여 시공적 관점의 재단도 해석이 수행된다. 본 논문에서는 서귀포 월드컵 축구 경기장 지붕 구조물의 예를 들어 형상해석, 응력-변형 해석, 재단도 해석을 수행하고, 카테노이드(Catenoid) 구조물을 이용하여 최적재단도에 관한 해석기법을 제시한다.

• 한국공간구조학회논문집
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.153-165
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• 2007

연성 구조물은 축강성은 강하고 휨 강성이 매우 작은 재료를 주 구조재로 사용하므로 초기강성에 매우 민감한 구조체이다. 막 구조물을 설계하기 위해서는 우선 초기장력 도입으로 인한 구조물의 형상을 정확히 알아야 한다. 이를 위해서 모형을 통한 모델링이나 컴퓨터를 이용한 형상해석이 요구되며, 초기장력의 도입으로 형성되는 막 구조물의 곡면은 일반적으로 등장력 곡면이다. 따라서 연성 구조물의 해석과 설계는 기존의 강성구조물과는 다른 형상해석, 응력-변형해석, 재단도 작성 및 시공해석의 3단계 해석이 요구되어진다. 본 연구는 재단도 작성 프로그램 NASScut를 이용하여 경계면 곡률의 오차를 최소화 할 수 있는 삼각형 Re-mesh 패턴을 제안하고, 재단도를 작성한다.

• 한국공간구조학회논문집
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.109-119
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• 2012

막 구조물은 일반적인 설계와는 달리 형상해석, 응력변형해석 및 재단도 과정을 수행하여야만 설계가 가능하다. 처음 두 과정과는 달리 재단은 3차원 곡면을 최소 오차를 가진 평면 스트립을 형성하는 과정이다. 경제적인 이유로 재단 선은 주로 측지선을 이용하여 작성된다. 그러나 일반적으로 측지선은 초기 형상탐색에서 구성된 삼각형 요소의 정보에서 추출됨으로 부드러운 곡선이 아니며, 불규칙한 직선이다. 그러므로 어떻게 불규칙한 직선을 곡선으로 표현할 것인가가 중요하다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 스플라인 함수를 이용한 보간 방법을 재단도 생성에 적용하였다. 이를 위해서 삼차 스플라인 함수, B-스플라인 함수 및 최소자승 스플라인 함수의 세 가지 경우에 대해서 고찰하고, 단순 모델 및 카테나리 모델을 대상으로 재단도 작성 결과를 검토하였다. 단순모델의 해석요소수와 추출된 불연속 절점 수에 따른 보간 곡선 비교결과는 요소수가 큰 경우 추출된 절점의 수가 적은 것이 효과적이며, 최소자승 보간이 다른 방법보다 더 부드러운 재단 경계선을 제공한다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제17권5호
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• pp.849-865
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• 2009

This research is a study of fashion design that applied formative features of formal beauty of architecture into clothing design; we focused on Gaudi's architectural style as well as Art Nouveau style that became popular from the end of the 19th century to the beginning of the 20th century. We noted that in general the simple and flat features of cloth impose a limitation on the expression of formal features in clothing design, but a unique diversity of designs can be achieved, evoking a sense of freshness by an ideal combination of flat patterns and draping. The aim of this research is to present a possibility of extending the sphere of design expression by creating three-dimensional clothes with pattern-cutting skills and applications of three-dimensional patterns as well as flat patterns found in Gaudi's works of architecture that are distinguished in curvaceousness and formal beauty. As for the research method, we reviewed previous studies by making a close review of books, papers, the pictures and web sites related to this topic. We made our clothes on the basis of this theoretical consideration. We found the following points. First, by presenting a work of fashion inspired by architectural designs, we realized that formal beauty in architect can become a motive for clothing design in a broad scale by noting the formal images, decoration details, and formative features of architectural works. Second, the characteristic lines of Gaudi's architecture are suitable to be adapted for expressing the detailed lines of decoration in clothes. Third, we can express formative beauty in clothes by highlighting the variation of shapes and lines through various attempts of change in background pattern, even though there is a limitation in the availability of cloth material because we must choose pieces of cloth with right texture and thickness that can be cut and sewn appropriately to express formative beauty. Fourth, we confirmed that it was possible to create unique formative designs by a creative application of both flat and three-dimensional cutting.