• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.289-299
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• 1999

The purpose of this study was to develop slacks pattern for obesity women through comparing the flat pattern with the draping pattern. The results were as follows: 1. In the result of the comparative investigation on pattern and sensory evaluation, it was found that the draping pattern had better comfort and appearance. Especially, as the lower part of the body is more obese and the expansion ratio of the body is higher, the draping pattern was superior to the flat pattern in the sensory evaluation. 2. In the result of sensory evaluation, it was found that the proper ease of total crotch length was $2{\sim}3%$ of actual total crotch length.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.53-61
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to compare the flat pattern with the draping pattern for the jacket. The results of this study were as follows: 1) According to the sensory evaluation for the movement, P2 flat pattern was more comfortable than the draping pattern at 88-94(N)-160 (77size). 2) The sensory evaluation was applied to evaluate the draping pattern was superior to the flat pattern for the collar at 82-90(N)-160(55size), 85-92(N)-160(66size) and 88-94(N)-160(77size). 3) The draping pattern was superior to the flat pattern in the sensory evaluation for the front and back. 4) Lee Hyung-Suck's flat pattern (P1) was better in appearance than the P2 and the draping pattern (P3) for the side sensory evaluation at 82-90(N)-160(55size) and 85-92(N)-160(66size).

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.208-218
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• 2003

The purpose of the study is to identify the designers' and the patterner's pattern making, draping and the use of dress form in domestic companies of designer's brand to present basic information for effective pattern works. It turned out that the designer brand companies at home use flat pattern and draping at the same time rather than draping only The effects of the use of draping lies in unique designs and elastic materials, which seems proper phenomena for the current design trend such as high duality and diversification. But, draping has such problems that the pattern takes long time to be finished and that the staffs don't acquire well the needed skills due to the lack of draping education. To secure the high added value of fashion, it is required to develop education programs for new skills and to apply draping actively. Also, it requires an educational system in which practice oriented skills are cultivated, and efficient investment into apparel business.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.399-403
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• 2004

Education of clothing and textiles in the university is various according to the purposes. Among that clothing construction and practice is what is needed the most in understanding the process of apparel producing, and is the basic subject of areas from apparel designs to quality management. Producing apparel starts from planning the bodice pattern according to the human body shape. Basic bodice pattern should be highly practical so that production of all items of apparel patterns can be possible. Also, a basic bodice pattern needs to be planned in the way that even beginners can use it by classifying sizes according to each body measurements. Thus in this study. bodice patterns will be produced in way of draping method subjecting university students in early 20s. standardized and classified sizes will be calculated from it and bodice pattern made by studied flat pattern method will be examined and compared so that finally suitability will be compared. As a result of examining and comparing bodice patterns made by draping method and studied flat pattern method on the model of the human body produced by plaster method, sizes were classified into 5 levels. As a result of evaluation of creation. satisfying consequence from various body shape was acquired and it is expected of the beginners who are stating from clothing construction and practice to be educated by using the result of this study.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.30-46
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• 2018

The purpose of the study was to suggest certain measurements of the skirt block pattern drafting process for the Korean female fashion models, with the aim to improve its fit. For this purpose, the study carried out an analysis of the lower body features of a dress form developed for the study. This form was representative of Korean female fashion models' body features. The study performed a cross-sectional analysis at waist and hip levels and measured the angles from the frontal and lateral silhouettes of the dress forms. The comparisons of the skirt block patterns developed through draping by the use of 2 types of the dress forms developed and existed and through drafting according to the current patternmaking method have led to noticeable findings in terms of implementation of the skirt block drafting process for the Korean female fashion models. The results of the study are as follows: (1) the vertical lengths between the levels at the front waist point and the side waist point in the patterns are 0.7cm; (2) the vertical length between the levels at the front waist point and the back waist point in the back panel is 0.7cm; (3) the horizontal lengths between the perpendicular line from the side hip point and the side waist point in patterns are within a range of 2.0 to 2.2cm; (4) the horizontal length between the original and the adjusted back waist points moved into the waist line, in a range of 0.0 to 1.0cm, differs whether the center back line would be folded or sewn.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.15 no.3 s.39
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• pp.309-320
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to develope a pattern drafting method for various somatotype which contribute largely to increase the fitness and comfort of garments. This study had 8 subjects who were college girls who had prominent somatic characteristics. The study was carried out by the following procedures. 1. The 8 subjects who had prominent somatic characteristics were cheesed by photograph- ing. The somatotypes of 8 subjects were classified into Standard somatotype, Turning over somatotype, Bending somatotype and Turning over-Bending somatotype. 2. Under the criterion of the body surface development, the comparative investigation on the pattern and the sensory evaluation were accomplished in the flat pattern method and the draping pattern method. 3. The body surface development of them were made by the draping pattern method. 4. In the result of the comparative investigation and the sensory evaluation, it was found that the flat pattern had better appearance and comfort than the draping pattern, and the draping pattern included more somatic characteristics than the flat pattern. 5. On the basis of those result, the pattern drafting method according to the somatotype was indicated and it was examinated by the clothing experiment. 6. The sensory evaluation for appearance and comfort was applied to evaluate the new basic pattern for four somatotype by comparing it with the conventional basic pattern (Rim, won ja' 5). The result of the sensory evaluation, it was found that the new basic pattern was more suitable for each somatotype than the conventional basic pattern.

• Journal of the Computational Structural Engineering Institute of Korea
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• v.12 no.3
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• pp.457-464
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• 1999

The object of this study is form finding, stress-strain analysis and cutting pattern analysis of membrane structures under the following assumptions : (1) material is linearly elastic (2) stress state is plane stress. The cable and membrane structures undergo large deformation because of its highly flexibility, therefore, we must take account of its geometric nonlinearity. The analysis procedure is consisted of three steps considering geometric nonlinearity unlike any other structures. First step is the form finding analysis to determine the initial equilibrium shape. Second step is the stress-strain analysis to investigate the behaviors of structures under various external loads. Once a stationary shape has been fount a cutting pattern based on the form finding analysis may be generated for manufacturing procedure. In this paper, form finding, stress-strain analysis and cutting pattern analysis is carried out for applying to Seoguipo worldcup soccer stadium roof structures and optimal cutting pattern analysis technique is proposed.

• Journal of Korean Association for Spatial Structures
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• v.7 no.3 s.25
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• pp.153-165
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• 2007

Flexible structure uses a material with strong axial stiffness and small bending stiffness as its major structural material so it is very sensitive to initial stiffness. Therefore, the self-formation process which accomplishes a form in the natural world is grasped and it is as well investigated and classified the type of modeling techniques which are available to find the shapes of soft structures. Accordingly, for analysis and design of flexible structure, three-step analysis such as shape analysis, stress-deformation analysis, cutting pattern generation and constructional analysis is required unlike the existing stiff structure. In this study, suggest that minimize the error of side curvatures by the triangle Re-mesh pattern and draw the cutting pattern generation.

• Journal of Korean Association for Spatial Structures
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.109-119
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• 2012

For membrane structure, there are three main steps in design and construction, which are form finding, statistical load analysis, and cutting patterning. Unlike the first two stages, the step of cutting pattern involves the translation of a double-curved surface in 3D space into a 2D plane with minimal error. For economic reasons, the seam lines of generated cutting patterns rely greatly on the geodesic line. Generally, as searching regions of the seam line are plane elements in the step of shape analysis, the seam line is not a smooth curve, but an irregularly divided straight line. So, it is how we make an irregularly divided straight line a smooth curve that defines the quality of the pattern. Accordingly, in this paper, we analyzed interpolation schemes using spline, and apply these methods to cutting pattern generation on the curved surface. To generate the pattern, three types of spline functions were used, i.e., cubic spline function, B-spline, and least-square spline approximation, and simple model and the catenary-shaped membrane was adopted to examine the result of generation. The result of comparing the approximation curves by the number of elements and the number of extracted nodes of simple model revealed that the seam line for less number of extracted nodes with large number of elements were more efficient, and the least-square spline approximation provided smoother seam line than other methods.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.849-865
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• 2009

This research is a study of fashion design that applied formative features of formal beauty of architecture into clothing design; we focused on Gaudi's architectural style as well as Art Nouveau style that became popular from the end of the 19th century to the beginning of the 20th century. We noted that in general the simple and flat features of cloth impose a limitation on the expression of formal features in clothing design, but a unique diversity of designs can be achieved, evoking a sense of freshness by an ideal combination of flat patterns and draping. The aim of this research is to present a possibility of extending the sphere of design expression by creating three-dimensional clothes with pattern-cutting skills and applications of three-dimensional patterns as well as flat patterns found in Gaudi's works of architecture that are distinguished in curvaceousness and formal beauty. As for the research method, we reviewed previous studies by making a close review of books, papers, the pictures and web sites related to this topic. We made our clothes on the basis of this theoretical consideration. We found the following points. First, by presenting a work of fashion inspired by architectural designs, we realized that formal beauty in architect can become a motive for clothing design in a broad scale by noting the formal images, decoration details, and formative features of architectural works. Second, the characteristic lines of Gaudi's architecture are suitable to be adapted for expressing the detailed lines of decoration in clothes. Third, we can express formative beauty in clothes by highlighting the variation of shapes and lines through various attempts of change in background pattern, even though there is a limitation in the availability of cloth material because we must choose pieces of cloth with right texture and thickness that can be cut and sewn appropriately to express formative beauty. Fourth, we confirmed that it was possible to create unique formative designs by a creative application of both flat and three-dimensional cutting.