• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.6
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• pp.139-164
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• 2002

The objective of this Paper was to identify the internal and external symbols of Punks, and to assess the significance of punk style giving an inspiration to many high fashion designers. For this objective. comprehension on widely discussed idea of punk, furthermore grasping the internal and external form by inquiring historically punk look, and importantly looking into new ideas pursued by punk fashion by studying traits of punk image in 1980's and after are done. Punk in the latter half of the 70's was anti-fashion expressed for the young of working class to rebel against the established generation. At first some of the fashion was popularized by the young who imitated pop stars under the specific economy of Britain, and others with movement of hippie Punk is aesthetics extremism which neglects traditionalism in the past but pursues newness. It denied traditional way of expression and principles of aesthetics but created newness. Punk look was symbolized as poor look. grotesque, androgynous, black, graffiti, and bricolage. And the internal meanings of these symbols are ego-screaming, expression of nihilism, resistance, irony and ridicule, search for hedonism. The punk phenomenon continues today. Some teens still cling to the complete look. whether they have punks' idea and value or not. Diverse elements of punk style play a major role in the current trend of fashion and a source of the fresh inspiration for the high fashion designers. Punk style is truly the story of a fad that turned to fashion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Fashion and Beauty
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• v.1 no.1 s.1
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• pp.11-26
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• 2003

It is an important means of expressing oneself and is affected by the social and cultural environment, too. People are creating another new lower culture, it's Sub Culture, that is, their own unique new fashion through the coordination status of a lower culture and its components to reveal the visual symbol of such garments and body decorations most clearly. The Punk formed as an reaction to 1960's hippie appeared as the most unpleasant image to the established generations with their ultimate resisting action and new aesthetic-consciousness. Their coordination by the use of the disorder and stimulative tool which gives abhorrence appears again as Cyber Punk being influenced by optical art and multimedia in '90s. It can be seen that the form of lower culture mentioned above became a storehouse of new fashion creation through the most nuclear role of lower culture and the unique characteristic coordination by age and that each lower culture fashion can become a style icon of new fashion through free coordination.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.8
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• pp.123-139
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• 2001

본고는 공간, 시간, 계급, 종교 등 하위문화 텍스트의 병행인용 즉 상호텍스트성(intertextuality)을 통해, 20세기 대중 문화의 상징 마돈나 뮤직 비디오와 공연 등의 인체, 의상, 이미지 등에 나타난 포스트모던 정체성을 연구함으로써, 현대 미디어 문화를 관통하는 주체적 여성 정체성과 미적 주관성을 이해하고자한다. 첫째, 상호공간텍스트성 복식은 스패니쉬룩. 태국룩. 게이샤룩, 테크노펑크룩, 테크노 카우걸룩 등의 동서양의 지리적 소외감을 통해 비권위적 다양한 시선을 제시함으로써, 다국적 자본주의와 함께 확장된 미적 체험을 하게 한다.; 둘째, 상호시간텍스트성 복식은 중세 엠파이어 드레스, 18세기 로코코시대의 robe'a la francaise, 미래적 제 3의 종 룩 등 동시적 몽환적 이미지를 통해 유희적 유토피아를 지향하였다.; 셋째, 상호계급텍스트성 복식은 그라피티룩, 펑크룩, 키치룩, 먼로 룩, 보깅(voguing), 에비타 룩 등 상하류층, 하위문화, 빈부, 권력의 유무를 병행인용하여, 좋은/나쁜 취향, 창녀/성녀 이분법을 해체하고 반부르조아적 저항과 물질주의를 찬양하는 탈계급적, 양면적 정체성을 구축하였다. ; 넷째, 상호종교텍스트성 복식은 상징적 가부장인 카톨릭교 텍스트를 인용하여 펑키크리스찬 룩, 에로틱 크리스찬 룩 등의 선/악, 신성성/관능성, 미추, 정숙성/비정숙성의 이분법, 비장미를 해체함으로써 예술의 자율성, 무의식이 강조된 쾌락주의적, 반권위주의적 정체성을 주장한다. 섹슈얼리티에 있어, 시선, 권력, 쾌락의 주체가 됨으로써, 미적 범주에 있어 선악, 미추, 정숙성과 비정숙성의 이분법을 해체함으로써, 유동적 자아를 구성한 마돈나 의상의 포스트모던 정체성은 여성에게 확대된 가능성을 제공하며 내부로부터 해체된 열린 복식을 지향한다.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.11
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• pp.1444-1453
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• 2005

In this study, I tried to analyze the characteristics of modem punk fashion by applying characteristics of modem cultural phenomena. The method of this study is the qualitative study: I analyzed collections from 1996 to 2003 by suggesting an analysis frame based on bibliological studies and applying internet photo materials to the analysis frame. As a result, modem punk fashion has the following characteristics. First, it tends to promote things that are entirely different from the previous expression methods by using the overlapping of texts combined with things that are heterogeneous. Second, the scope of its decoration has been expanded with the aid of the expression method, in which the objects that had not been used as decoration previously have been transformed into media. Third, the appearance of non-mainstream group who has suggested the anti-mainstream thought that violates the uniformed beauty of punk group has expanded the scope of classes that accept the punk fashion. Lastly, clothes, wigs and accessories have been commercialized through the permanent modification that used to signify resistance and disgust such as the expression methods of image replicas using tattoo, piercing, and transformation of hair. In doing so, punk fashion has been generalized and popularized. Such modem punk fashion reflects the change of society such as social transformation that is occupied by images thanks to its complexity and pluralism and the development of public media.

• Cartoon and Animation Studies
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• s.46
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• pp.63-84
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• 2017

Overwhelming images of vividly colored aircraft flying across the blue sky and steam gushing from massive machines are reminiscent of Japanese animation films, especially of works by master director Hayao Miyazaki. By presenting together steam engines, which are mechanical devices of the Industrial Age in the past, and aircraft of the future age, the director constructs ambiguous space and time. These special time and space constitute nostalgia for past time, with devices called steam engines as a medium, and a longing for science and the future as represented by aircraft. In addition, the anticipation and disappointment, ideals and regrets of humans who see these two from the perspective of the present are projected on the works. This shares the characteristic of the steam punk genre, which seeks to return to the past rather than to face current problems. A subgenre of science fiction (henceforth "sci-fi"), steam punk reflects fundamental skepticism of science and technology and mechanized civilization, which have developed beyond human control. In addition, as works that clearly display such characteristics, director Miyazaki's and < $Nausica{\ddot{a}}$ of the Valley of Wind> can be examined. With spectacles of steam engines and aircraft, these two works enticingly visualize narratives about nature and humans and about the environment and destruction. Such attractiveness on the part of the master director's works has led to support from fans worldwide. However, often in the backgrounds of director Miyazaki's works, which have depicted ideal worlds of nature, environment, and community as highly concentrated fantasies, lie presuppositions of war and the end of the world. As works that are especially prominent in such characteristics, there are and . These two works betray the expectations of the audience by establishing the actual wartime as the temporal background and proceeding toward narratives of reality. Trapped in the ontological identity of the director himself, the war depicted by him projects a subjective and romantic attitude. Such a problem stems also from the ambiguity of the hybrid space and time, which is basic to the steam punk genre. This is because the basic characteristic of steam punk is to transplant past time, which humans were able to control, in the future from a perspective of optimism and longing via steam engines rather than to face current problems. In this respect, steam punk animation films in themselves can be seen as having significance and limitations at the same time.

• 정보화사회
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• s.91
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• pp.31-35
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• 1995

컴퓨터는 어느 틈엔가 우리의 생활 깊숙이 뿌리를 내리게 되었다. 어디를 가나 컴퓨터를 쉽게 볼 수 있으며, TV나 신문에서도 컴퓨터 관련 기사가 나오지 않는 날이 거의 없을 정도가 되었다. 컴퓨터 보급 초창기 때만 해도 컴퓨터로 작업하는 사람을 신기하게 쳐다보곤 했지만, 이제는 그러한 사람들을 더이상 신기하게 쳐다보지 않게 되었다. 그러나 컴퓨터가 우리 생활의 일부분으로 자리잡음에 따라, 그 역기능도 점점 커지고 있으며 중요한 사회 문제가 되고 있다. 이 글에서는 정보사회의 문제아로 불려지는 해커와 사이버펑크의 정의 및 부정적인 행동 양식, 이들을 만드는 사회환경, 대응 방안 등에 대해서 살펴보고자 한다.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2003.05a
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• pp.26-26
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• 2003

학문적 논의를 중심으로 했던 1, 2세대 페미니즘에 비해, 현대의 젊은 페미니스트들에 의해 주장되고 실행되는 3세대 페미니즘은 젊은 여성들의 분노와 쾌락을 표출하고 있으며, 특히 걸 파워는 개인주의, 독립성, 적극적 섹슈얼리티 등을 통해 여성 권력을 주장한다. 본 연구는 3세대 페미니즘을 성(도덕), 문화, 인종, 공간, 성적 소수자 관점에서 파워 페미니즘, 포스트펑크 페미니즘, 3세계 페미니즘, 사이버페미니즘, 퀴어페미니즘으로 분류하고, 3세대 페미니즘을 표현하는 매체로 대중음악의 걸 파워를 선정하여, 걸 파워 의상에 표현된 여성성과 그 미적 특성을 연구했다.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.561-576
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• 2016

Born in the 19th century as an intermediate between the past and the future, steampunk provides a strong feeling of fantasy. The objective of this research is to understand the utilization of steampunk in all realms through an in-depth literature review and empirical study. Taking the findings as a foundation, we will analyze examples shown in fashion designs that are put into real production, and those designs that can provide inspiration for further design development. The research methodology will constitute a major analysis of advanced research, internet materials, and literature. Photo materials will be collected from professional websites for steampunk. The product method such as follows. Firstly, we will classify the internal meaning of characteristics in steampunk that are similar to the characteristics that are being researched, then take it as the standard and arrange to integrate all five features: restoration, pluralism, duplicity, resistibility and abnormality. We will spread out the design based on images from advanced research. Secondly, in order for to design a steampunk product, I decided on four themes: devastated environment, brutal wars, cool-headed machinery, and the overlap of the future and the past. Inspiration was acquired from representative movies and animations featuring steampunk. Thus, new directions for fashion design with steampunk features can be discovered. It raises the feasibility of this combination in modern society. In the future with the development of technology, it functions as a design that is easy for users to approach.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.76-89
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• 2009

Popular music unites people who have different genders, ages, locals, and values. Through the popular music, youth interchange their emotion and create their fashion. Fashion and music formed the twin pillars on which the first historically significant youth sub-culture was built. Glam rock and Punk rock which won popularity in the 1970s influenced the fashion of the times. The purpose of this study is to compare Glam and Punk make-up which appeared as a symbol of the rebel against an older generation. The methodology utilized in this study was the analysis of materials from the survey through the literature, internet sites, and visual references. The results of this study are as follows: In face make-up, Glam used a white base to appear cosmic; on the other hand, Punk used a white base to appear pale and horrid. In eye make-up, Glam used black, pink, and blue eye shadow, and accented the eye by using black eye lines. Punk used black eye shadow, and drew black circles or squares around eyes. In lip make-up, Glam used pink, purple, red, and black lip color and silver and pink lip gloss to glitter. Punk used red and black lip color to appear horrid. In body make-up, Glam used glitter powder to appear with a bright skin. Punk drew tattoos and horror patterns in their body. The common themes of Glam and Punk make-up were rebellion, androgyny, and the beauty of ugliness as well as a self-created persona.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.242-253
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• 2005

The objective of this research is to identify and examine the punk hair styles which, with their various, rather vague names, help to describe the twentieth century subordinate culture or subculture and also their place today as one of the mainstream male hair trends. The scope of this research will stretch to include also: North-east and around that areas native Americans'hair styles which, are thought to have strong links with the Punk hair tend. The focus of this research will remain with the so-called Mohican or Mohawk hair styles(collectively referred to as Punk styles), which have originated mainly from native American warrions residing in North-east and South-east region of the United States. This study clarified a few questions in doubt concerning the origin of cockcomb hairstyle. Firstly, the cockcomb hairstyle known to represent punk hairstyle was influenced the American Indian's Roach style. Secondly, since Roach style is referred as Mohawk tribe's hairstyle in some refernces, the view of seeing cockcomb hairstyle as a Mohawk style is considered more persuasive. Thirdly, although Roach style was a usual hairstyle through North-east and South-east region of the United States, the people in South-east region did Roach hair style because of the North-east's influences. Lastly alike the Punkers had several kinds of cockcomb hairstyle. American Indians'Roach style also differed in shape concerning of their regions and their kindred. In addition, the reason why the most common term to refer punk hairstyle became Mohican is considered as that the film 'Last Mohican' has influenced on it. That film can appeal their history and play a good role of mediator to let the public know better about themselves, 'Mohican' naturally became the name of the specific hair style.