• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.3
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• pp.477-494
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• 2021

This study examined four subjects with close to average body-size values in four stages based on the average BMI value of middle-aged women aged 45 to 59 years. The first experimental pants was developed with two kinds of educational materials pants pattern. After using a clothing-suitability evaluation to identify problems, a pants pattern suitable for the body shape of middle-aged women was developed by modifying and supplementing the initial design. The fit assessment revealed that pattern A had a problem with wrinkles in the hip and thigh areas due to the long crotch length, and pattern B had a short bottom length, which caused the bottom to curl in toward the groin or for the bottom to stick at the hips. The second experimental pants was developed to address these issues and overall satisfaction with the dimensions was higher than for the first educational pattern. The proper front and rear length extensions satisfied movement functionality and appearance requirements, and increasing the gradient of the back centerline-rather than expanding the width of the back crotch-improved the functionality.

• Proceedings of the Costume Culture Conference
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• 2003.09a
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• pp.65-67
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• 2003

사람들은 자신이 선호하는 스타일의 의복을 착용하기를 원한다. 하지만 다수의 사람들이 자신의 체형 부위별로 본인이 생각하기에 만족하지 못하는 경우가 많아 실제로는 선호하는 스타일이 아닌 자신의 체형을 커버하는 디자인의 의복을 착용하는 경우가 많다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 정장류 착용 경험이 많고 사회 활동을 많이 하는 성인 여성을 대상으로 신체인지도 및 만족도에 따른 아이템(재킷, 팬츠, 스커트)별 선호스타일과 착용스타일에 어떠한 차이점이 있는가를 살펴보고, 이러한 차이가 나타나는 요인을 분석해 보고자 한다. (중략)

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.2
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• pp.1-13
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• 2010

Recently, young men have become more muscular, as they have become increasingly more interested in health and their physical appearances. The trend these days is to wear slim suits to accentuate their figures. Men's pants are the one of the most general clothes which men wears. While pants are an ordinary item of clothing, most muscular men have fitting problems with ready-made pants. In view of this, this study aimed at developing a prototype pants pattern for muscular men. In this study, five muscular men were selected for wearing tests. The regression formulas, in which muscular men's body measurements were adopted, were applied to unsuitable body parts, especially the body parts determined inappropriate based on the results of the existing pants pattern wearing tests. After going through the first and second pants pattern wearing tests, the final pants patterns were developed that were suitable for muscular men. The results of the study were as follows: In order to solve the problem of the insufficient of ease due to the development of the hip muscles, the crotch length was made longer, (0.08${\times}$hip circumference+17.648)+1.5cm and front crotch width and back crotch width were made wider, 1.0cm each than those of the existing pants prototype patterns. The ease of 0.5cm was added to the hip circumference/4+2.5cm because of the development of the hip and thigh muscles.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.431-439
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• 2013

This study aims to give practical help to the pattern making of baggy pants produced in large quantity from industrial fields. The functionality of crotch part is a key element to decide wear sensation and comfort of pants as having direct influence on movements of legs in pattern designing of baggy pants. The industrial patterns of baggy pants in various styles that are released currently in Korea were collected and a comparative analysis was conducted on them for the thesis. First, samples of men baggy pants were collected from three different brands and compared the completion sizes. Secondly, it studied the most appropriate patterns as quantifying the appropriateness of movements through fitting tests. Finally, the study verified the differences of visual images by surveys of professional groups. The conclusions obtained from this research are as follows. In terms of aesthetic attribute among the three brands, A baggy pants, which had a small size tolerance, were the most appropriate. Meanwhile concerning the appropriateness of movement, B baggy pants were shown to be the most appropriate. This reveals explicitly the problem of aesthetic attribute and functionality, which are always in conflict during the pattern design. It is necessary to develop patterns and establish a measurement system that may satisfy both of these factors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.8
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• pp.27-42
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• 2013

The study was aimed to develop men's working pants patterns through the computerized 3-D virtual clothing simulation system and to verify the effects of the 3-D simulated outfit by comparing it to the images of the actual outfits. The average body measurements of South Korean men aged between 30 and 39 used for the simulation in order to generate a 3-D virtual model and to realize outfits of men's working pants for the workers in the heavy industry in South Korea. And also the preliminary questionnaire survey results on certain aspects of the working pants such as type, detailed design preference and discomforting parts were taken into consideration. Both the simulated and real images of the developed working pants were compared in terms of the ease amount according to parts of the working pants, the position of seam lines, the appearance of darts and pleats, and the effects of the fabric surface according to expertise panels' subjective 5-point scale evaluation. The results throughout the study were (1) the basic working pants item worn by subject workers were the straight one pleated pants. The most discomforting parts of the working pants were in the order of body rise, thigh, hip, waist, pants hems and knee girth. (2) the drafting factors of pants patterns differed by the men's body features, which was related to the allocation of suppression amounts between waist and hip girths into darts and hip curve amounts on the waist line level of the pants. (3) the similarity of the virtually simulated and real images of men's working pants resulted in an average of 4.5 to the ease of appearance, 4.6 to the seam lines, 4.1 to the fabric surface effects in a 5-point scale, which means that the two were highly alike.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.912-922
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• 2012

With a long crotch length and much ease in the hip area, baggy pants are visually expressed in a variety of designs when compared with regular pants. The purpose of this study is to define the image differences of various baggy pants designs according to hip circumference and crotch length ease. To that end, this study deduced the visual image variable of experimental baggy pants and analyzed visual images according to changes in hip circumference and crotch length. Nine baggy pants with different levels of hip circumference and crotch length ease were produced as experimental pants. The image of each pair of experimental baggy pants was evaluated based on pictures taken of the pants worn by a woman in her 20s with a standard body figure. The image assessment team was composed of 105 clothing majors. The research results are as follows. Four visual image factors of experimental baggy pants were extracted: whole body compensation, lower body compensation, hip compensation, and waist compensation. Among the 4 factors, the whole body compensation factor was shown as the most representative factor. The body compensation image was higher with less hip circumference ease in the experimental baggy pants, and more hip circumference ease created the optical illusion of a larger body figure, presenting a significant difference between waist circumference and hip circumference. The lower body compensation factor, hip compensation factor, and waist compensation factor all showed a significant influence on changes in hip circumference ease. This result shows that changes in hip circumference ease exerted more influence on the body compensation image than did changes in crotch length ease. The results of this study provide basic data for predicting visual images according to differences in the level of ease in baggy pants, helping people select clothing suitable to their preferences and body shapes.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.555-563
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• 2010

With recent advances in 3D scanning technology, three-dimensional (3D) patternmaking is becoming a powerful way to develop garments pattern. This technology is now applicable to the made to measure (MTM) system of both ordinary and tightly fitting garments. Although the pattern of fitted clothing has been developed using 3D human data, it is still interesting to develop cycling pants by considering while-cycling body posture and fabric elasticity. This study adopted the Garland's triangle simplification method in order to simplify data without distorting the original 3D scan. Next, the Runge-Kutta method (2C-AN program) was used to develop a 2D pattern from the triangular pixels in the 3D scanned data. The 3D scanned data of four male, university students aged from 21 to 25, was obtained using Whole body scanner (Model WB4, Cyberware, Inc., USA). Results showed the average error of measurement was $4.58cm^2$ (0.19%) for area and 0~0.61cm for the length between the 3D body scanned data and the 2D developed pattern data. This is an acceptable range of error for garment manufacture. Additionally, the 2D pattern developed, based on the 3D body scanned data, did not need ease for comfort or ease of movement when cycling. This study thus provides insights into how garment patterns may be developed for ergonomic comfort in certain special environments.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.17-33
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• 2015

This study aimed to develop basic pants patterns reflecting somatotype characteristics of the women in their 20s. In order to develop basic pants patterns for women in their 20s, wearing tests were conducted. With the results of wearing tests, drafting methods were applied by using regression equation for the parts that were found to improper. For the parts where regression equation was not applicable, the results of wearing tests were applied. The results and the conclusion of development of basic pants patterns for women in their 20s were as follows. The waist height was applied for the regression equations of waist to hip length, crotch length, and knee length, and the hip circumference was applied for the regression equations of front leg opening. Also, back leg opening, front knee width and back knee width were calculated based on the front leg opening. For the waistline the ease of 2cm was added, and for the hipline the ease of 4cm was added. H/16 - 1cm was applied for the drafting of front crotch width, and H/8 was applied for the drafting of back crotch width. Pants patterns for women in their 20s on the methods mentioned above were tested for the $2^{nd}$ research wearing tests, and they received good ratings on the items and demonstrated that the developed pants patterns had excellent body fit.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.115-126
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• 2008

The construction of an athlete's tight-fitting garments is very important to the wearer in terms of athletic performance. Therefore pattern development of tight-fitting garments must allow for the full range of human movement and postures. In this study the relationship between the construction of a skate pants pattern and clothing fitting was explored with the aim of improving the comfort of the clothing. The four male subjects were university students between the ages of 20 to 24. Subjective wear sensations of the experimental garments were rated using a seven-point Likert scale on four consecutive days. While wearing the garments, subjects were asked to take five different postures including waist flexion, sitting and others. A Likert-type scale was used for the evaluation, with 7 points indicating the best fit in tight-fitting pants. Results showed differences in the front-rise length and back-rise length between basic pants(A) and modified pants(B,C,D) were -5.16cm and +5.64cm. Comparing the basic pants pattern(A) with modified pants pattern(B), the latter was superior to basic pants(A) in terms of pressure sensation and closeness of fit, but there was no significant difference. Among the four tight-fitting skate pants, A and B pants were superior to the others in terms of fitting and stability of waist and hip sections. In the case of the skate pants, the number of cutting lines in the pattern had an influence on clothing comfort. A minimum cutting line for tight skate pants was better than a maximum cutting line in terms of clothing comfort.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.159-168
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• 2015

In this study, visual evaluation was wide pants with changes in length of pants and width of hem line of wide pants design to provide data which can enhance wearing image effects at the production of wide pants. According to the length of pants and width of hem line of wide pants, a total of 9 stimulants were chosen. Then, they were evaluated using a seven-point rating scale against 40 fashion students. The data has been analyzed by Factor Analysis, ANOVA, $Scheff{\acute{e}}$'s Test and the MCA method. The results of the study are as follows : 1. According to factor analysis, the components of visual evaluation depending on the length of pants and width of hem line of wide pants were divided into five factors: individuality, body correction, modesty, body length and cute. 2. According to visual evaluation depending on changes in the length of pants, no significant difference was found in all five positions. 3. According to visual evaluation depending on changes in the length of pants and width of hem line of wide pants, 'width of hem line 60, 100' revealed a significant difference in body correction. 'width of hem line 80' revealed a significant difference in body correction and body length. 4. In terms of interactions over changes in the length of pants and width of hem line of wide pants, no interaction effects were found in all five factors. According to multiple classification analysis(MCA) on the factors without interaction effects, length of pants had more effect on visual image in body correction, body length and cute. In other factors, more influence was observed depending on the width of hem line.