• 복식
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• 제63권3호
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• pp.78-94
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• 2013

In order to examine the influence of Anti-form in contemporary fashion focusing on 'signs of time', which illustrates the zeitgeist effects art and fashion, this study investigates both Anti-form movement in art of 1960s and 1970s and the fashion designs since 1970s when the signs of the influence of Anti-form in fashion began to appear. This was done by conducting literary survey as well as case analysis. Anti-form values the process and signs of time in that it visualizes the time and the process of making artworks. The emphasis on signs of time in Anti-form is observed in postmodernism fashion. Visualization of manufacturing process, visualization of signs of wearing, and continuation of wearing experience are all influences of the Anti-form in fashion. Visualization of manufacturing process exposes the techniques and the materials involved in garment construction such as linings, inside-out seams, interlinings, and unraveled hems, as well as the use of muslin, which is used in making garment prototypes. Signs of wearing is articulated in wrinkles caused by wearing, sings of alteration, reappeared designs of the past collections, reuse of vintage fabrics or garments, and the fabrics which assumes aged appearance. Continuous experience of a wearer is indicated in that the garment shape is not predetermined but changes continuously by the wearer's body shape and movement, which generates new and relative silhouettes continuously.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권9_10호
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• pp.1464-1475
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• 2006

This thesis is purported to contemplate glamour look reflected in fashion history, thereby to establish the styles of glamour expressed in fashion trends and to provide the categorical basis of fashion design. For such purposes, this thesis first provides the historical survey on the glamour look in fashion, and to conduct a case study by conducting survey of fashion photographs captured in an internet site called Firsview(www.firstview.com) during most recent ten-year period covering $pr\^{e}t-\`{a}-porter$ design products presented by ten leading Italian designers. Based upon the historical survey, there are four representative styles in glamour looks, including (1) luxury glamour, (2) hyperfeminine glamour, (3) kitsch glamour, and (4) romantic glamour. Luxury glamour looks were most often utilized by fashion designs of Valentino and Armani, which can be characterized by frequent usage of glittering details intended to emphasize the surface decoration. Hyperfeminine glamour looks were characterized by the frequent usage of black color in an effort to create fetish atmosphere or sensuality, which can be discovered from the fashion designs of Versace, Cavalli and Ferre. Kitsch glamour looks were characterized by the appropriation of details of vulgar subcultural features mixed with strong color combinations and ethnic trimmings. Versace, Cavalli and Dolce & Gabbana were the main designers of kitsch glamour looks. Finally, romantic glamour looks, which were mainly expressed by Valentine, Dolce & Gabbana and Versace, were characterized by nostalgia and luxury with light colors and materials such as lace and transparent fabrics.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.119-128
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to examine the military look, which is one of the most popular fashion trends in the 1996 women's fashion. Military look is that imitates or reinterprets the Army uniform which is functionally useful. After World War 1 , military look appeared in the women's fashion which is functionable tailor suits style, ankle-length skirt, pants or boiler suits for work wear, overcoat against the cold, and there was an attempt to introduce a National Standard Dress. In the middle of World War II, there was a similiar circumstance in women's military fashion. There were functionable tailor suits, knee-length skirt, pants or siren suits for work wear. And the Utility Dress was nationally recommended. In addition, the regulations were introduced to control the materials and styles used for some clothes. In the 70s, as the resistance movement as counterculture began to wear Army look which was army-uniform or army caps with 'US ARMY' logo and badges, and became very popular among the youth. In the 90s, military look has got one of the fashionable fashion themes with revival of Neo- Hippie look. Not only street fashion but also high fashion designer selected the trend for '96A/W The characteristics of the military look are khaki colors or camouflage prints, epaulets, big outpockets with flap, golden buttons and army belt. As I examined, during the World War I and ll, women wore the military look because of shortage of goods and work or service, and it was recommended by government. Though the military look in 70s, began by the resistance movement, at least it became a popular fashion. Military look in 90s, does not have inner symbolic meaning or ideology but it only represents fashion trend and revival fashion.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제34권11호
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• pp.1912-1922
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• 2010

This paper examines the types and characteristics of cartoon and animation characters in contemporary fashion in order to provide the basic data necessary for the development and use of fashion character designs that develop creative designs and culturally high values. This study examined the relevant literature, reviewed local publications, foreign fashion magazines, and Internet data from 2000 to 2009. In this way, it analyzed various visual images that reflect cartoon and animation characters in case studies. This paper found some expression types, which are the direct expression of characters through print or collage, the borrowing of character images, the use of cartoon expression techniques, and the use of characters for the composition of clothing forms. Those expression types had some similar characteristics. The first is the expression of a kidult-like entertainment that reflected the inner psychology of adults trying to escape from a complicated modem society and returning to their childhood. The second is the expression of satire. Cartoon and animation characters were used as a medium for pointing out social irregularities and evil deeds that taught the lesson of good triumphing over the evil in fashion; they expressed the satire of the modem society and delivered a message of purity and hope. The third is the use of a decorative factor. Each character was printed in primary colors or expressed in colorful beads, and serial cartoon scenes were printed on clothes and used to make a decorative effect of fashion designs.

• 복식
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• 제56권2호
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• pp.70-82
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the trends and features of male fashion and hair style image and thereby, determine the relationship between fashion and hair styles, and thus, provide for some basic data for future studies about male hair styles as well as for new male hair style trends. For this purpose, relevant literature was extensively reviewed including some visual materials. The major references for this study were domestic and foreign books, journals and preceding studies about fashion and hair. The visual materials referred to for this study were domestic magazines specialized in fashion and hair, visual data supplied by hair product brands, Korea Beauty Parlor Journal, Beauty and Cosmetic Newspaper, Beauty Today, and such fashion special websites as $S{\cdot}F{\cdot}I,\;C{\cdot}F{\cdot}T$, firstview.com, fashionwide.com, etc. Based on the results from a questionnaire survey of master or Ph degree holders of apparel science, reputed designer were sampled and then, 80 works were finally sampled from their collections published between January, 2002 and April, 2005. As a result of analyzing the images shown in modern male apparel and hair style fashions by classifying them into natural, restored, folklore and eclectic ones, it was confirmed that both male apparels and hair styles have been reinterpreted in modern terms depending on social and cultural settings to be expressed as new styles, and in particular, that male hair styles have evolved diversely into new styles depending on fashion tendencies, while having been versatile in some relationships with their fashion tendencies.

• 복식
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• 제58권4호
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• pp.47-57
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• 2008

Funology is a compound word with fun and technology which means the products or activity carrying fun and technology at the same time. This is one of the key words that can explain the culture of post-digital generation amongst the post-digital age. The purpose of this study was to provide the creative ideas to develop the fashion designs showing funology concept for the 21st century. As a background of funology trend, general ideas about the post-digital age and the post-digital generation were reviewed. First, funology designs among the industrial products and the funology concepts in the advertisement were examined. And the ways of expression and the meanings of funology fashion designs were extracted by analyzing funology fashion between 2000 S/S and 2008 F/W. The external expression ways of funology fashion in the post-digital age were as follows: parody of popular images, inharmony by the exaggeration or transformation, trompe l'oeil, mixture of the styles shown in the children's wear and the objects of children, patterns with childlike or animation characters, and the graffiti art. The internal meanings contained in the funology fashion were 1) fantasm showing surrealistic funology that was based on the people's pursue of fantasy free from the everyday's severe routine 2) memorism showing nostalgic funology that was based on the pursue of vanishing fear of reality and going back to the childhood. To sum up, fashions showing funology were expressed in various ways in the post-digital age. This will provide the great inspirations for creating the new coming fashions and efficient healing contents for the cold-hearted emotions of nowaday's people.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권6호
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• pp.867-877
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• 2009

These days, the fantastic in opposition to classic beauty becomes a genre of creative body expression. The purpose of this study was to analyze the expressive characteristics of body types and meanings in recent fantastic fashion illustration. The method of this study was to analyze recent documentaries, fashion books, internet web site and so forth. The results were as follows: In literatures, pictures and movies, the category of the fantastic body's expressive types were classified as dominant mutant based on SF, multi body or fragment body by disruption, heterogeneous compound based on myth, personified humanoid and non substance in supernatural boundary. The dominant mutant based on SF was expressed image morphing, composition of machine image with body and modern metamorphosis of classic SF body. It means propensity to post-feminism and reservation of meaning analysis based on human unconsciousness. The multi body or fragment body by disruption in fashion illustration was expressed distorted composition of same body pictures, replacement of different bodies, deconstruction and partial omission of body and composition of meaning or non meaning images. It means permanence of self and basic narcissism. The heterogeneous compound based on myth was expressed general composition or optical illusion of various and aggressive animal motive. It means reinterpretation of original myth, metaphor of basic femme fatale, pursuit of permanence and sign of primitive mind in unconsciousness. The personified humanoid was expressed real human body description of mannequin or ball joint doll and anthropomorphism of robot image. It means representative satisfaction and nostalgia of childhood. The non substance in supernatural boundary was expressed grotesque description of ghost, zombie, vampire, angel, fairy, using of symbolic red, black color and non body. It means human's basic desire about immortality and taboo. Through the result of these study, the expression of fantastic body in fashion illustration will expend expressive method and we will understand human and cultural codes of today.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제9권5호
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• pp.118-127
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• 2009

현재 전 세계적으로 공동주거문화의 확산과 국내 신규 분양 아파트 환경의 연속적인 증가 추세가 각 주거공간과 세대간에 홈 네트워크 기기의 수요를 증대시키고 있다. 유비쿼터스의 계속적 진화와 홈 네트워크 시스템 도입과 발전이 제품 디자인의 수요를 촉진시키고 있다. 주거문화의 변화와 아파트 실내디자인의 변화는 생활자의 라이프 스타일과 제품의 디자인에 상호 영향을 미치고 있으며, 새로운 제품디자인을 요구하고 있다. 실내 제품과의 조화, 인테리어 스타일과 제품, 제품과 패션디자인, 제품과 제품간의 요소적인 인자의 재구성과 융합이 본 디자인 연구의 핵심적 요소이다. 이것을 바탕으로 디자인 프로세스는 통합적인 디자인 전략과 컨셉트의 조사와 분석으로 연구되었으며, 디자인의 기능성, 외관의 심미적인 디자인이 일치될 수 있는 3차원 디자인으로 표현하였다. 실질적인 디자인 안을 발표함으로서 향후 발전 전망의 단면을 구체적으로 예측할 수 있기 때문이다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.737-754
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• 2015

The structural aesthetics of architecture are becoming an inspirational source for many fashion designers and have been reborn in structural fashion. This study planned to analyze the method of expression of structural aesthetics expressed in modern structural fashion design and the construction method to maximize such an effect on the basis of the construction characteristic of Santiago Calatrava as the representative architect of the structural aesthetic. According to the study, the structural aesthetics expressed in modern structural fashion design are as follows: 1) The symbolical formative aesthetic expressed by symbolical inference and analyzation; 2) the dynamic beauty of physic expressed by visual emphasis and dynamics; and 3) the asymmetric beauty of symmetry expressed by metastasis toward the boundary between balance and imbalance. In addition, to maximize structural aesthetics, we used repetition and a progressive technique based on rhythm, asymmetry, and incision-based variances, such as balance, polygon flux, and inference, and analyzation-based distortion as the structuring principle. The following expression methods for maximizing structural aesthetics were found: 1) symbolical and structural exaggeration of appearance; 2) detail technique expansion and material property diversification; and 3) the three-dimensional transformation of structure and shell expression. Structural fashion design was found to have maximized structural aesthetics by using such expression methods to secure artistic esthetics, destroy existing shapes and patterns, and create unique shapes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제21권1호
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• pp.66-80
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• 2013

Nomadism means 'divide share' and 'drift where allocated'. The word to express a variety of modern people without being tied to a fixed time and place, constantly moving to new areas and explore the possibility. The progress of this study, first, to research on the conceptual study of Nomadism through Deleuze's theory of art and to organize Nomadism patterns and design paradigms in modern society. Second is to analyze and investigate cases of Nomadism based on the theoretical background in a way to reinterpret to the contemporary fashion, and to suggest the formative characteristics and inherent expressiveness of Nomadism expressed in modern fashion. Theoretical considerations made through the collection data were select from ready-to-wear women's collections 2005 S/S~2013 S/S presented in 'Style.com'. The results of the analysis of the formative characteristics of Nomadism in the $21^{st}$ century fashion are 'mixed expressions of time space and gender', 'pursuit of diversity through self-dismantling', 'clothing systemization of mobile and deformable' and 'temporary amusement, lightness, an expression of the ride rules'. The inherent expressiveness of Nomadism through these types of figurative representation are 'unbounded fashion', 'multi-center, multi-functional' and 'emotional directivity'. As such, philosophy and artistic trends started Nomadism is harmoniously expressed in terms of the design transcending the boundaries of existing stereotypes.