• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.19 no.4
• /
• pp.135-152
• /
• 2015

The purpose of this study is to explore the role of deconstruction and creative destruction in Maison Margiela’s fashion design code, which has opened the door to a new wave of innovative design since 1988. Using a combination of theoretical analysis, precedent research, and a review of existing literature, five years of Maison Margiela's works (2010-2014) were evaluated. The analysis shows that Maison Margiela’s Design Code consists of the following key elements: Addition, Extension, Asymmetry, Elimination, Deconstruction, Complanation, and Inversion. Addition refers to act of attaching additional pieces of fabric or clothing on the existing piece. Extension refers to the act of extending the design elements, such as their position or features. Asymmetry means the irregular positioning of left-to right and front-to-back length and features. Deconstruction could be seen in intentionally frayed sleeves, open seams, and tears in the cloth. The element of Elimination was evident in the removal of key pieces of clothing such as a coat, pants, blouse, and a jacket. Complanation refers to the reversion to a two dimensional contemplation of the human form rather than the more obvious 3-dimensional form. Finally, Inversion was used by displaying an inner layer of clothing on the outside or exposing seams or zippers in a way that people are not accustomed to seeing. It also meant that the order of wearing clothes was sometimes inverted, so external layers would be worn within clothing that are traditionally underneath. Maison Margiela’s creations represented a break

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.26 no.5
• /
• pp.1-21
• /
• 2022

Purpose of this study is to develop fashion design with greater added value and to seek the expandability of its expression domain by applying special computer code and tape embroidery machine capable of creating more special and fancier fashion to the development of fashion design by focusing on the fashion decorations that are becoming increasingly more computer systematized. For this purpose, expression techniques and effects of computer embroidery machine code and tape trimming decoration techniques, and cases of modern fashion design are examined. Major images are then deduced to designing and production of actual 6 creative pieces equipped with creativity and commercial value by applying such images deduced. As the results, it is not only possible to develop highly value added fashion design by utilizing mixed computer embroidery machine code and tape trimming decoration technique but also to produce countlessly new and unique surfaces by inducing changes in diversified pattern expressions, thickness of cord thread, and width, color and texture of material, etc. of the tape. This can maximize the expression domain of design, and fulfill the fashion desires of consumers wanting modern enhancement of quality and individualization. If multilateral attempts and studies for the aforementioned purposes can be expanded continuously, it is deemed possible to broaden the range of expression techniques in fashion design and, moreover, to make contribution towards enhancement of competitiveness of fashion industry.

• Archives of design research
• /
• v.18 no.1 s.59
• /
• pp.233-244
• /
• 2005

Fashion is one of the characteristics which represents the comtemporary sociocultural signifiant. A style that a certain stream of fashion brings is not just limited in fragmentary tendencies and fads. That can be a code to communicate and function as a medium in itself. Music has been displaying it's power to fashion while fashion has been exercising it's influence over the music. There is an inseparable relationship between music and fashion in terms of expressing our images of the world: fashion delivers them through visuality and music does it by sound. Both fashion and music are reflecting our society as well as they are influencing on sociocultural aspects generally. Whenever music has been changed new youth culture has been made and this culture has been expanded with forming some distinct fashion trends. The study focuses on identifying the relations between pop music and fashion styles which are occupying positions firmly on the bases of youth culture through analysing the relations between the fashion styles and music genres which are used in sub-culture groups to express their own identities and consciousness from a point of semiotics. In conclusion, subculture is the exit of their escaping from the compelling inconsistency cause by the condition of people's life and the way for them to solve through cultural sublimating for themselves. People come up with distinctive style of music and fashion to express their resistant signifie in their symbolic way. In addition, a particular music trend has much to do with a contemporary fashion style. In the relationship between music and fashion, there have been the subtle mechanism to boost and influence and some crucial similarity each other to signify inner values of the times. This study lets us realize that fashion is not only a popular style of clothes, hair, etc. at a particular time or place but also a medium to communicate and to guarantee polysemous identity by functioning as a flexible tool to exchange contemporary sociocultural meanings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.31 no.6 s.165
• /
• pp.911-922
• /
• 2007

In this study, for the purpose of correct viewing on the image of Africa and understanding of modem fashion, African image and art, the general characteristics of African costume, the background of fashion subjecting African image, and the trend according to ages were examined based on theoretical background. Then the researcher drew African image by analyzing the works in four 2005 S/S major fashion collections to designers and design factors. The ten voted designers' and brands' works in 2005 S/S collections had four concepts of African image; 'Wild Erotic', 'Abstract Primitive', 'Natural Elegant' and 'Sporty Romantic'. The viewpoint of modem fashion on African image from the aspect of design, designer and fashion trend can be examined as below. First, African costume, which was religious and ceremonial, appeared to emphasize its esthetic side with decorative details in modem fashion design and designers competed to choose a method to harmonize tradition and modem style and by adopting these from occult to decorative meaning, Second, fashion designers presented city unpolished beauty of modem women to a special style and made african image to be recognized as a code of fashion culture by integrating it with modem people's mind to go back to the past and admiration for the purity of nature. Third, thanks to the instinctive vitality hidden in the primitive life, inspiration for creative design that is found in the esthetic mind of the Indians, foreign taste emphasizing ethnic trend, and admiration to naturalism due to the increase of concern over ecology, 'African image' led the beginning of 21C trend by being settled as a in fashion trend.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.39 no.1
• /
• pp.91-105
• /
• 2015

This paper accomplishes the following points: First, the costume style held by women in the Silla dynasty are examined. Second, a new fashion concept is drawn from Silla's costume images with lessons from analyzing how major brands from China and Japan have adopted their own traditional images. Third, a Korean fashion concept is crafted to reflect important modern fashion design factors. The conclusions of this study are: The concept of Korean fashion using Silla costume image based on the 2015 S/S trend was developed and suggested as: 'Harmony of Contrast', new beauty created by mutually contrasting things; 'Timeless' transcending time-space flowing from the past, present, to future; 'Empathy' where past and present are harmonized; 'Modern with Antique' expressing a new style modernism where the old retains value. The efforts to express identity via conceptualization of Korean fashion are an effective strategy that satisfies the goals of setting Korea's fashion design apart from others and spreading Korean culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.56 no.2 s.101
• /
• pp.134-146
• /
• 2006

Modern society is a multi-cultural consumer society, and there are multiple trends to cater to the tastes of diverse consumers with different sociocultural background. To grasp fashion trends in fast-changing society, how consumer life is changing and what sort of trend is prevailing should be understood above all. A major fashion trend keeps on changing in every season, and that is an extensive and compound measure of what affects the lives and values of cultural receivers who take the lead in it. The purpose of this study was to delve into what sorts of trends were presented in the 21st century's different cultures, how those cultures were reflected in fashion trends, and how design elements predicted by fashion trends could serve as the sources of design that could create a new fashion. The findings of the study were as follows: First of all, the theories of popular culture and trends were reviewed to describe how general receivers found meaning and delight in the products of cultural industry in their own way and how the products were converted into diverse cultural media. Secondly, consumer styles were discussed by classifying consumers into six groups, twixter, duppie, Ubi-Nomad, NONOS, LOHAS and chav, who were generated by changing cultural codes. Thirdly, sociocultural trends and consumer changes brought a lot of diverse changes to fashion trends. The visual materials about the 2005 S/S, F/W Collection were examined to track how changing trends affected fashion style.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.14 no.5
• /
• pp.78-92
• /
• 2010

The culture phenomenon, which the desire of self expression is noticeable and the diversity of gender identity is widely accepted, simply makes a difference in the lifestyle of one human being rather than the dichotomous classification of male and female. Now, the delicate and aesthetic sensitivity classified as the feminine characteristics is no longer the exclusive property of female and this refers to substituting it as a social gender from the concept of biological sex. This phenomenon has influenced on the male culture and is creating various codes according to the cultural gender extended from the gender as a social role. Also, the transition into the western lifestyle has extended the aesthetic emotion to accommodate new codes from the diversification and globalization of lifestyle. The mansumer power, which does not care too much about the money for the emotionally attached items, has enabled various fashion styles. After analyzing the diversified clothing behavior conducted by these people in connection with the social phenomenon, First, this shows the phenomenon of emotional value pursuit that finds pleasure over the clothing as the item of augmented reality is added to the concept of play, in which the real space referred to as garment and virtual space of playing the rock, paper and scissors game meet together within the augmented reality. Second, the convergence concept has enabled the coordination of new style by obscuring the area of design concept and this refers to the changes in design from the development of new items and transformation into double-style details. Third, the divergence that intensively provides specific use/convenience and specialized value shows a change in the fashion market from the phenomenon that admits various gene rations of culture and specifically, takes differently about the recognition of middle-aged males. Fourth, the variety seeking tendency receives attention as the value of future design together with the phenomenon of discriminative value pursuit. In the male fashion, it is linked to the collaboration with the design area and this tells that the fashion with the narcissistic cross-dressing and motto of neutral gender without being sided to male/female is rising.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.56 no.8 s.108
• /
• pp.83-94
• /
• 2006

In this era of ubiquitous service, a computing device has functions similar with human beings. It influences all major fields of human life, such as clothing, dieting and housing. In order to use the coordination functions of the magic mirror, which might be a basic part of clothing in the era of ubiquitous service, this study concentrates on product information that should be inputted in RFID chip in detail in order to exercise virtual fashion coordination. Information should be inputted in RFID chip to use magic mirror for fashion coordination, a direction for doing this was also suggested. After coding the suggested clothing items, virtual fashion coordination was implemented as a fashion illustration. This study is as following, First, sorts standard code for suitable coordination in 4 images and presented to a proof. Code denoted by 10 characters. Each code literal special quality marks by two characters and divided by season, image, fabric, item, rotor, five items. Item middle of characters of 10 code, when agree on article more than 8, coordination is enabled. Secondely, It is presented by coordination to dressing action picture by suitable coordination classified apart in whole occasions, and coordination method by wearer inclination is remembered wearer's dressing action picture to Magic mirror including layered look. Thirdly, wardrobe of Magic mirror clothes that always buy newly in magic mirror, is washing and clothes that do not take to wardrobe did to be controlled. Fourth, Wealth and schedule is suggested firster than wearer's dressing action.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.39 no.2
• /
• pp.233-246
• /
• 2015

Focus on Digital Fashion Image, the conceptual framework for the thesis is established from Virtuality in Digital Art. Formative characteristics and aesthetic characteristics were studied by classifying the Digital Fashion Image applied and expressed by digital media and technology. A detective research method was used for a case study. A literature study for case-by-case data was analyzed with focus on the works expressing fashion that utilized digital media and technology since the 2000s. Through this study, the Digital revolution has created the socio-cultural impact of a Virtual representation to implement technology and fashion culture that finds ways to take advantage of the image shown in a Digital Fashion Media by understanding Virtuality. The results are as follows. First, it was a re-formation of the fashion culture through the experience of virtuality with mental zone parameters between the media 'Mediation Code'. Reflect the reality of the virtual environment as represented by a cultural image of fashion brands and fashion that reset the team relationship and formed a Homo Ludens cultural code. Second, 'Interactive Exchange' acts on the exchange interaction between the method of digital technology, the human and the machine as well as the technical interoperability of network elements and techniques. This exchange is applied to fashion images that express emotion. Forming personalized fashion items and the user interactively storage that expresses the interactive exchange to forward the identity of the emotional fashion by a change in the message delivery system fashion. Third, the emphasis on intuitive artistic expression 'Synesthesia Immersion' induces a sense of immersion and excitement through the fusion of the interconnected. Enhance a visual image in fashion sensory representation and maximize a tactile and visual virtual reality involvement.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.35 no.2
• /
• pp.192-205
• /
• 2011

This study analyzed the registration of patent and utility models by fashion firms in Korea. A total of 2,291 registration cases of IPC A41B-H from the period of 1996 to 2009 were collected by KIPRIS of the Korean Intellectual Property Organization (KIPO). All cases were analyzed by year to review the longitudinal trend and 481 cases of IPC A41B (shirts, underwear, baby linen, and handkerchiefs) and 1088 cases of IPC A41D (outerwear, protective garments, and accessories) were analyzed by content (provided benefit type and developing method), by detailed product items and the characteristics of the applicant. The results of this study were as follows: 1) Registration of IPC 41 increased steeply by the year (especially since 2006) and the patent registrations increased more than those in the utility model. 2) Analyzing the application content of A41B on the basis of benefit showed that 75% were to provide new functions and the rest were for health. In terms of the developing method, 83% of benefit provided by the application were by design development, 11.2% were by material, and the rest was by process, In the cases of IPC A41D, 23.6% were for safety and protection. In terms of the developing method, the process and material development were more frequently adopted than in the cases of A41B. 3) The major product types of A41B were socks, underwear, and infant wear, whereas gloves and parts of clothing were major items in A41D. 4) In terms of the characteristics of the applicant, registration by firms was greater for patents than for utility models and registration by foreigners increased in 2006 due to the complete opening of the retail market. 5) Fifteen universities registered for a total 57 cases and major applications were for IT related clothing or high-tech protective items.