• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.178-194
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• 2011

Due to the population growth of the old aged, Korea is also entering into an aging society. But a research on the pattern design to the old aged is much to be desired. The purpose of this research is to design skirt pattern fitted for each body type by categorizing the lower body type of the old aged woman. For the way of research, categorized the body type by using the female measuring size from the 65 years old to 99 years old which has been measured by the Korean body size research as an assay data, and base on this data, a suitable skirt pattern for each body type of the old aged woman was designed by practicing the exterior evaluation. The data analysis was done with the statistical treatment in SPSS 12.0, and the results are as follows. The lower body type of the old aged woman were divided into the type 1. The circumference article is the biggest compared to the height article regarding to the lower body type of the old aged woman. The type 2. The height article and the circumference and thickness articles are the poorest. The type 3. The height article is the biggest and the hip width and calf circumference are thicker than the waist width. The type 4. The height article is the lowest and the waist width is thicker instead the hip and leg are thinner. In type 1, The pattern was modified by increasing 1cm a length of the dart and raising up 1.2cm at the cross point between side line and waist line. In type 2, the basic pattern was used, and in type 3, using the outline of the basic pattern however, increased 1cm a length of the dart and modified the amounts of dart by handling the art in curve, and modified the waist line to be more three-dimensional curves by raising up 1 cm at the cross point between waist line and side line and falling down 0.5cm at the cross point between the back center line and the waist line. In type 4, modified the amounts of front and back dart to 1.25cm, and raised up 0.8cm at the cross point between side line and waist line, and modified the waist line and the side seam line in a gentle curve by reducing circumference of the skirt tail to 1cm from the side seam line.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.43-54
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• 2011

Digital Textile Printing(DTP) is appropriate for quick response system(QRS) and is closely connected with high value added fashion industry. Fashion products of high price are mainly silk and cotton. For high quality DTP products, it is important to optimize the parameters of media, pre and after-treatment, ink, printer, etc. DTP for these two fiber materials is also accompanied certainly with steaming as after-treatment process for coloration. Role of steam is like water in exhaustion dyeing. Steam can diffuse dye or ink in printing paste to fiber. Quality of DTP products depend on after-treatment processes such as steaming, washing, drying. Current production amount of DTP is smaller than one of conventional textile printing. However conventional after-treatment system has been using so far. This is mismatched with DTP in terms of process efficiency, spot work of small lot, quality control. In this study, continuous after-treatment system has been suitably designed for DTP that washing and drying are available after steaming. So, It is possible to improve efficiency of DTP process. Especially, the effects of after-treatment process, such as temperature of heat drum, steaming time on printability, color difference, color fastness were examined. Two types of samples(cotton knit and silk fabrics) were used. The results were obtained as follows : First, there is no a wide difference between the K/S values of cotton and silk treated with continuous after-treatment system and those of sample treated with conventional printing after-treatment method. So it is more effective to use the continuous after-treatment system than conventional printing after-treatment system in case of the daily throughput of 1,000 yards below. Second, after continuous after-treatment for DTP, K/S values were increased and lightness($L^*$) values were decreased. ${\Delta}E$ values were below 2.3. Third, DTP samples treated with continuous after-treatment system were tested for fastness(washing, light, rubbing). Grades of fastness(washing, light, rubbing) were above 3 grade.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제15권5호
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• pp.69-86
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• 2011

The objective of this research is to unveil the dynamic changes of the trends in wedding dresses during the 20th Century. The studies were carried out in two forms; firstly by observing the actual wedding dresses worn by people at that time, and secondly by conducting formative comparisons between those dresses with the ones appeared in movies corresponding to that period. Movies provide an invaluable insight into the era's wedding dresses fashion trends since they function as intimate bridges in connection with the time's audience, and the visible imageries accurately reflect the characteristics embedded within that time frame. As there are no precedent studies regarding this topic, this thesis can serve as vital research data for the wedding dress industry. Research data regarding the actual wedding dresses were collected from books and museum web sites. The object of movies were films produced before World War II that contained both the background settings of the 20th Century and wedding dresses, of which photographic imageries were captured. Research analysis was then conducted by merging these data with findings from relevant books and internet materials. The results of the thesis are as the following: The 1900s was an extension of the 19th Century's popular fashion trend which can be characterized as the S curve silhouettes of the Edwardian period when long trains and long veils symbolized wealth and social power. In the 1910s, high waist silhouettes with soft wrinkles were prevalent as attire suitable for active mobility with practical functionality were highly regarded. During the 1920s, the flapper style became the dominant trend. Hem lines of the skirts were curled in the form of the scallop and laces were the most widely used raw materials. By the 1930s, wedding dresses that reinterpreted the glamorous sheath lines, practical two piece styles, and retro-styles became predominant. The 1940s saw the advent of ready-made wedding dresses made of synthesized materials; practical military style suits and casuals sometimes substituted the wedding dresses. And although the wedding dresses in the movies were primarily costumes to express the personalities of the characters, they were also reinterpreted as manifestations of the formative characteristics of each relative period that pursued very distinct and diverse features.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.26-41
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• 2004

This study aims to compare and analyze somatotype characteristics in clothing ergonomics as well as Sasang (Oriental physical constitution type classification into 4 kinds: taeyang, taeeum, soyang, soeum) medicine. The subjects were women collegians in their 20s. As a result, a new approach was made in somatotype classification. The following are conclusions: 1. The results of body measurement of the subjects belonged to 1 in most items when they were compared with the average records of female adults in their 20s in the national standard physique report. Thus, the subjects belonged to the average somatotype. 2. According to Sasang physical constitution classification, no subjects belonged to taeyang-type. Taeeum type (28.4%), had lower-body development greatest height and even development in width, thickness and girth. Soeum-type(37.8%) had the smallest physique. Soyang-type(33.8%) showed small values in height but great values in width, thickness and girth. 3. The factor analysis revealed 5 factors of somatotype characteristics: lower body factors including body weight, upper body factors, height factors including stature, belly width factors including waist and belly, and other factors comprising ankle and head size. 4. A cluster analysis by way of factor scores resulted in 3 types: cluster 1 44.6%, biggest values, largest somatotypes; cluster 2 17.6%, average somatotypes; cluster 3 tiniest somatotypes in most items. 5. In the crosstabs analysis, taeeum-type (57.6%) appeared a lot in cluster 1, soyang-type (76.9%) appeared most in cluster 2, and soeum-type (69.9%) was mostly seen in cluster 3. To sum up, the somatotype analysis of clothing ergonomics had something to do with constitution classification suggested in Sasang medicine. For clear justification, more systematic and scientific research should be followed with even more diverse subjects in sex and age.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.42-55
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to classify the contents of department stores and large-scale discount stores of consumer on information source, shopping orientation and store image in an effort to determine which variable gave a crucial impact on cosmetics department stores and large-scale discount stores selection behavior. The subjects of this study were 557 adult women visited department store and large-scale discount store in Busan. The data were analyzed by using Factor analysis, Frequency analysis, Correlation analysis, Cronabach $\alpha$ and Regression analysis. The results were as follows; 1. There was a difference in the demographical characteristics on department stores and large-scale discount stores of consumers. 2. Shopping Orientation of consumers were categorized into 5 types, and information source of consumers did 3 types, and store image of consumers did 5 types. 3. Leisure utilization, store & brand loyalty, store information, personal information, massmedia information, product & operate on, store atmosphere & salesperson and shopping convenience had positive correlations with cosmetics department stores selection beavior. but convenient location, rationality & economy and sales promotion had negative correlations with cosmetics department stores selection beavior. 4. Rationality & economy and sales promotion had positive correlations with cosmetics large-scale discount stores selection beavior. but convenient location, leisure utilization, store & brand loyalty, massmedia information, product & operate on, store atmosphere & salesperson and shopping convenience had negative correlations with cosmetics large-scale discount stores selection beavior. 5. Age, income, business(-), convenient location(-), rationality & economy(-), leisure utilization, store & brand loyalty, store information, personal information, massmedia information, store atmosphere & salesperson, shopping convenience and sales promotion(-) had a direct effect on cosmetics department stores selection beavior. Age, income, marriage, education had an indirect effect on department stores selection beavior through information source and store image, and information source did through store image, and shopping orientation did through store image. 6. Rationality & economy, convenient location(-), leisure utilization(-), store & brand loyalty(-), buying independence(-), personal information, massmedia information(-), product & operate on(-), shopping convenience(-) and sales promotion had a direct effect on cosmetics large-scale discount stores selection beavior. Age, income, marriage, education had an indirect effect on large-scale discount stores selection beavior through information source, shopping orientation and store image, and information source did through store image, and shopping orientation did through store image.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제11권2호
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• pp.76-91
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• 2007

The domestic market for scalp care and hair loss management reached 1 trillion won. The market for hair loss management is expected to expand further. Systematic scalp and hair care services, such as scalp scaling, scalp massage, equipment maintenance, scalp care products sale, and care program based on scalp and trichology are provided. This study examined the status of hair loss management and use of hair care products by people experiencing hair loss and the level of their satisfaction. In addition, this study presents basic data for the effective hair loss management and marketing strategies for scalp and hair loss clinics. The results are as follows. 41.2% of the study subjects were in their 20s, and 66.6% of the study subjects were women. As for the hair loss symptoms, 45.2%, the largest percentage, had thin and wispy hair and more women had thin hair than men. 80.0% of men had oily hair. As for the scalp condition, 39,3% had oily scalp. As more women experience hair loss, 39.6% had female pattern hair loss and 31.0% had male pattern hair loss. As the largest percentage of people experiencing hair loss was in their 20s, 33.4%, the largest percentage, had the onset of hair loss in their early 20s. 34.1%, the largest percentage, reported having used the clinic for less than 1 month. The older the subject, the longer the length of hair clinic use. As for the average number of monthly hair loss clinic visits, 28.2%, the largest percentage, said 3 times. As for the hair loss management product use, 61.9%, said they do not use it and 38.1% said they use it. 5.6%, the largest percentage, used Davines at home and 9.6%, the largest percentage, used Kerastase at the clinic. As for the experience of hair loss product previously, 84.5% said they had no experience and 15.5% said they had eThe following are related to the satisfaction level of hair loss management. xperience. 5.0%, the largest percentage, reported having used Daenggimeori. The following are related to the satisfaction level of hair loss management. 32.8%, the largest percentage, said the effect of hair loss management lasted less than 6 monthas. As for the satisfaction levels on hair loss management program, service, skill of the hair specialist, hygiene, and hair loss management products, most people indicated between average and somewhat satisfactory levels. As for the satisfaction level on the cost of hair loss management, most people indicated average satisfaction level. As for the element essential to hair loss management, 39.0%, the largest percentage, indicated development of effective and specialized programs, 28.2%, indicated low price, 25.1%, indicated systematic and professional education of the hair specialist, 4.6%, indicated marketing and promotion, 2.5%, indicated service quality, and 0.6% indicated others.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.43-52
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to present the plan for activation and rationalization of production of ladies' jacket and provide basic materials for improvement of the development of technologies in relation to the productivity improvement of ladies' jacket and the achievement of high quality product. For this purpose, this study attempted to investigate the present situation of jacket manufacturing process. The data is related with local ladies' jacket manufacturing companies in Seoul snd Kyonggi area. The results of this study are as follows. 1. 87.8% of the business firms responded that they acquired the productive process of jacket based on their own knowhow and 80.5% was aware of the need for the analysis of each process. The highest proportion of the business firms(65.9%) pointed out that the advantage of process analysis was the alleviation of the production time. 2. The jacket manufacturing process was made up of 4 stages such as the process of frontal/rear plate $\rightarrow$ the process of accessories $\rightarrow$ the process of completion $\rightarrow$ the process of finishing in a broad sense but composed of a total of 19 stages in detail. 3. Attachment of the sleeves(73.2), attachment of the collar(41.5%) and the formation of the overall silhouette(22.0%) were raised as the challenge in manufacturing ladies' jacket. 4. Most of the sewing business firms made use of the method of completing the collar and then stitching the outer material and the inner collar, and the line of the bodice and the outer collar as the method of stitching the tailored collar. and many of them used the method of completing the collar and then inserting it between the line of the bodice and the outer material and stitching it as the method of stitching the stand collar. They had a preference for the method of completing the sleeve and connecting it to the bodice as the method of stitching the sleeve. and used the method of treating the margin to seam of semi-lined and unlined jacket by treating it with the bias tape.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.116-127
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• 2002

The hip-hop fashion of the nineteens is just as important in hip-hop as in rapping, breaking, or graffitiwriting to young people. Hip-hop fashions major influences range from martial-arts moves, to street-gang uniforms and paraphernalia. Hip-hop fashion grew and evolved with the subculture. The identification with street-gang culture is important to hip-hop in general and still set the pace for hip-hop fashion. There are things that are necessary fashion components for each segment of hip-hop life. So even prisons are now selling prison clothes. Explaining the look, The rawest street element is a jail element, so the strongest statement is a uniform with shirts and trousers that match perfectly, like a jail piece. Insiders can detect the away of gang and prison culture on the iconography of seemingly innocuous brands. Hip-hop glam is part of an evolution of hip-hop style. Rap's gone luxe, and it is women who are leading the high-fashion charge. They wear in diamonds and fur. Now it is a very glam. Now, many brands are upping their marketing activities through a focus on their women's lines in advertising, and featuring hot celebrities. There is also a lot of rethinking of looks going on. Sexy and tight is emerging as the style of choice in this market and fabrications are becoming more important, as designers refine and upgrade their women's line. The clothes of hip-hop glam were the ordinary with the extraordinary: Designer fur and leather with athletic team jerseys, Nike sneakers, diamond bracelets and mall brands like Guess and Fubu. The hip-hop musician's sporty hip-hop looks has amply young people. The hip-hop looks of baggy jeans, oversized shirts and rugged outerwear have become a part of mainstream fashion. Hip-hop fashion has the characteristics of being sporty. In the 90s, Military look has got one of the fashionable hip-hop fashion style. It does not have inner symbolic meaning or ideology but it only represents a fashion trend and revival fashion. Not only fashion designer but also hip-hop musician selected the trend for hip-hop fashion style.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.15-34
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• 2001

Ornaments are accessories for the decoration of the body or dress. They aren't unavoidably required one, but serve to make one's dress perfect as decorative industrial art objects. In Morocco, ornaments were initially used as a sign of social position or the class or an incantatory symbol. In effect, they were originally employed to adjust one's dress, not just for decoration, and they were of use for household economy. Gold, silver and handcraft available for exchange were a means of increasing one's property and an indication of social standing and wealth. In particular, the dress and jewelry of a bride was a measure of her family's wealth, regarded as a symbol of her chastity and value. The ornaments symbolically back up people's faith in supernatural power, and their real value is based on implicit form or way of decoration, not the external shape. Specifically, there is a tendency to use the form of animal as a protector, not one to frighten people. In the artistic tradition of Morocco, fish pattern stands for water and rain, and eagle and bird are considered to be related to fate. Scorpion and lizard are depicted as an inquirer of sun, and snake is a symbol of abundance and sexual instinct, being viewed to have an ability to cure disease. Turtle pattern is a symbol of saint because it protects one from the evil. The ornaments are made of gold, silver, amber, clam, garnet, glass, nielle, enamel, glaze, coral or tree, and symbolic patterns are used, including hand(a symbol of five numerals), turtle, lizard, scorpion, eye, triangle, bird and eggs. They are very big and diverse, being categorized into ornaments for the head or the chest, neckless, fibula, earring, bracelet and ring. For Moroccans, make-up is a sort of instinctive behavior to meet aesthetic and sexual desire. They also wear make-up for practical purpose of protection, intentionally inflict a wound on the skin for ceremonial or religious purpose, paint the skin with pigment, or have the part of the body tattooed for incantatory purpose. All this actions are regarded as make-up. The raw material of cosmetics is aker, a vegetable dye. They get the lips or cheeks turn red and paint eyebrows with yellow saffran powder to have a bad devil lose its strength. Tattooing is mainly done by women and viewed as a sign of their value or social organization they belong to. Sometimes that is used to represent a woman's being old enough to marry or getting married already or the frequency of marriage. Besides, tattoo is believed to prevent or remedy loose bowels or cough, depending on its location or pattern, and they often change tattoo according to the change of beauty art.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.49-65
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• 2001

This thesis aims to reveal the unsatisfactory unfitting factors in the tight collars of adult males' dress shirts for the purpose of improving neck-collar fitness. For this study, nine adult males were chosen as the subjects. When the subjects erected their necks upright, the researcher conducted an experiment, using the direct anthropometrical measuring method and the gypsum method by turns, in order to understand neck shapes by way of right-neck lateral flection, left-neck lateral flection, neck flection, neck extension, right neck rotation, and left neck rotation. And then, the propriety of allowances from body surface alteration was verified by analyses through the measurement of wearing comfortableness and clothing pressure in two sorts of ready-made dress shirts, which had different allowances. The consequences of this study are as follows: 1. In length alteration to movement, a decrease was found in the opposite (and an increase in the identical) directions of right-neck lateral flection, left-neck lateral flection, and neck flection movements. Also, when the subjects shook their heads, an increase was seen by 0.42$\sim$0.63cm in neck girth, 0.31$\sim$1.12cm in 3cm-above-the-neck base girth, and 1.16cm in neck extension of 3cm-above-the-neck base girth. 2. As a result of the drafts of surface measurement, the alteration ratios of dimensions and vertical length dropped in the identical directions of the movement, but grew in the opposite directions. A reverse change was shown in horizontal length. The rough widening gaps for making drafts were 0.7cm in front left and right, and 0.2cm in back left and right of 3cm-above-the-neck base girth. On the whole, the space was about 1.8cm, while there was no significant variation between the upright stationary test and the movement test. 3. There were important differences between the two kinds of ready-made dress shirts (Type A: 1cm allowance in neck girth; Type B: 2cm allowance) in clothing pressure and wearing comfortableness. That is, Type A had higher pressure and more uncomfortable sense of wearing. In other words, as clothing pressure and wearing comfortableness are negatively related to each other, Type A's greater clothing pressure led to worse wearing comfortableness.