• 디자인학연구
• /
• 제18권1호
• /
• pp.167-174
• /
• 2005

본 연구는 컬러 코디네이션 지원모델과 도구를 개발하여 디자이너의 감성적 직관적 의사결정을 객관적으로 지원하는 것을 목적으로 한다. 이를 위해 본 연구의 선행연구인 '섬유컬러 그루핑 체계에 관한 연구'에서 제안된 컬러 그루핑 체계와 대표 어휘를 바탕으로 본 연구에서는 배색 그룹의 설계를 통해 실용적으로 사용할 수 있는 컬러 코디네이션지원 모델을 제작하였다. 본 연구의 결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 컬러 그룹을 구성하기 위한 기본 컬러 도출을 위해 $1999{\sim}2003$년까지의 5년간 세계 4대 collection, 2002 F/W 2003 S/S 시즌의 Street 패션, 자 그룹별 대표 브랜드에서 총 687개의 컬러를 수집하였다. 둘째, 687개의 수집된 컬러는 비색 그룹을 위한 추출을 위해 3단계의 과정을 거쳐 총 144색의 컬러로 정리하였다. 셋째, 최종 추출된 컬러는 선행전구에서 제안한 그루핑 체계인 브라이트, 파스텔, 딥, 뉴트럴 그룹으로 분류하였고, 4개의 대그룹은 다시 12개의 소그룹으로 분류하였다. 넷째, 제시된 각 그룹 내의 색깔은 그룹 내에서의 코디네이션은 물론, 타 그룹과도 서로 대치 될 수 있는 크로스 오버코디네이션 개념을 도입하여 커러 코디네이션 체계를 구축하였다. 다섯째, 위와 같이 계통 색조별 4개의 대표 그룹(12개의 소그룹)으로 된 배색 체계를 구성하는 총 144개의 컬러를 섬유패션 디자인 산업의 대표 소재라 할 수 있는 면사에 염색하였다. 또한 글로벌 비즈니스로서의 패션 산업적 특성과 연관 디자인 산업분야와의 호환성을 고려해 시스템을 구성하는 각 색상에는 팬 톤 컬러 기호와 CMYK 값을 명시했다. 여섯째, 완성된 면 소재의 얀(yarn)을 크로스 코디네이션이 용이하도록 디자인된 용기에 포장하여 패션 실무자들이 쉽게 활용 할 수 있는 컬러 코디네이션 시스템을 완성하였다.

• 문화기술의 융합
• /
• 제5권4호
• /
• pp.23-27
• /
• 2019

우리나라는 오천 년 역사를 이어오는 동안 우수한 문화자산을 축적해 왔으면서도 문화를 상품화하는 일을 소홀히 하였다. 그 결과 세계인이 인정하는 기술이 있으면서도 세계에 내놓을 만한 훌륭한 문화상품이 없다. 따라서 전통문화 속의 독특한 소재를 활용하여 현대적인 감각으로 재 디자인하여 상품화하는 것이 필요하다. 천연염색에 의한 직물은 채도가 낮으므로 특별한 배색조화를 하지 않아도 잘 어울리며, 자연스럽고 편안한 느낌을 준다. 따라서 천연염색으로 얻어진 직물들은 문화상품 개발을 위하여 매우 적절한 소재라고 생각된다. 또한 한지는 질기고 중후하며 우아한 느낌을 지니고 있어서 그 자체로 예술의 한 분야를 구축할 수 있는 우수한 소재라고 할 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 세계적으로 뛰어난 한지를 소재로 한 한지직물을 활용하여, 쪽, 홍화, 황벽, 그리고 자근으로 천연 염색하였다. 그 염색 직물을 활용하여 두 대의 양산과 카드 지갑의 문화상품을 만들어 제시하였다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제12권1호
• /
• pp.25-34
• /
• 2010

Design in the 21st Century requires showing extraordinary and revolutionary possibilities by merging multiple cultures or different art forms. 21C fashion also increases its's complexity through the blending in of other design field's styles and forms. In other words, 21C's fashion design involves not only clothing, but combines techniques, aspects and functions fulled from various design categories. As a result, Current fashion design becomes more unique, and shows various styles. From this point of view, this study focuses on creating and suggesting unique textile designs through the understanding of design processes of textiles, which are inspired by high tech architectural structures. The fundamental shape of the architectural structures were simplified into thick lines and geometric shapes. these design elements were then transferred into textile designs. As a result, unique textile looks were created, and were applied to the apparel designs by CAD to see 3d simulations. Exchanging or merging ideas of different design categories leads innovative and fresh looks. 21C is rapidly changing, and designers need to continually introduce new looks every season. Incorporating 21st Century consumption patterns, designers must understand the process of creating original designs through various methods. The innovative fabric designs for this study involved a creative process of drawing from a step by step breakdown of two separate design fields, which were then merged into one finished design. The data and research from this study can be used as a reference tool for any further applicable fashion and textile designs in the future.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제9권2호
• /
• pp.139-154
• /
• 2007

Wellbeing means the new life style leading a rich and nice life in which body and spirit is combined organically, and influence of wellbeing culture extends throughout the society. The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of Korean wellbeing fashion. Fashion photographs from leading monthly fashion magazines from 2001 to 2005 were analyzed. The styles and materials and colors were examined from 1,151 wellbeing fashion designs that is based on wellbeing culture. The major conclusions of the study are as follows : 1. The styles of wellbeing fashion in Korea include sportive, ecology, ethnic, retro styles in order. 2. Wellbeing fashion in Korea increased double in 2005 compared to 2001. Not least, sportive style and ethnic style rapidly increased. 3. Materials of wellbeing fashion in Korea include cottons, wools, chemical fibers, silks, jutes, functional fibers in order. Particularly the use of cottons in 2005 increased three times compared to 2001. 4. Of wellbeing fashion colors, yellow in bright tone were present the most, followed by white, red, black, green, blue, grey in order. Natural colors, vivid colors, pastel tone colors were used.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제17권2호
• /
• pp.125-143
• /
• 2015

This study has investigated the status of utilizing 3D printing in fashion field in order to keep up with the trend for 3D printing technology to be realized in all industries so that the materials and the modeling modes may be figured out. The following is the findings. The materials used most in 3D printing in fashion field are PA, PLA, TPU, multi-material, ABS and metal. PA, TPU and Multi-material have so much excellent flexibility and strength that they are widely used for garment, shoes and such fashion items as bags. But PLA, ABS and metal are scarcely used for garment because PLA is easily biodegradable in the air, ABS generates harmful gas in the process of manufacture and metal is not flexible, while all of these three are partly used for shoes and accessories. The modeling modes mainly applied for 3D printing in fashion field are SLS, SLA, FDM and Polyjet. SLS, which is of a powder-spraying method, is used for making 3D textile seen just like knitting. Polyjet method, which has higher accuracy and excellent flexibility, can be used for expressing diverse colors, and accordingly it is used a lot for high-quality garment, while SLA and FDM method are found to be mostly used for manufacturing shoes and accessories rather than for making garment because they are easily shrunk to result in deformation.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제14권2호
• /
• pp.127-145
• /
• 2012

In an effort to investigate the overall trends of knit fabrics in fashion trends books, this study analyzed the components(fabric, yarn, gauge, thickness, knitting structure, pattern, dyeing and finishing) of knit fabrics in fashion trends books by the years and seasons from the S/S season of 2002 to the F/W season of 2011. Analyzed in the study were total 883 knit fabrics including the knit samples in Nelly Rodi Knitwear and Promostyl Fabrics. Collected data were put to frequency analysis with SPSS 12.0. Group mean analysis was also performed for thickness. The research results were as follows: As for knit fabrics in fashion trend books by the years and seasons, knit fabrics were most used in 2004 with similar frequency of knit fabrics among the seasons. As for fabric composition of knit fabrics, the uses of blend fabrics were considerably prominent both in S/S and F/W seasons and recorded the highest level in the S/S season of 2003 and the F/W season of 2002. As for gauge composition of knit fabrics, S/S seasons saw the most uses of fine G of 20G or higher, while F/W seasons saw the many uses of 12G-18G, which showed the highest frequency in 2002. As for knitting structure of knit fabrics, the plain stitch was used most both in S/S and F/W seasons and recorded the highest level in the S/S season of 2011 and the F/W season of 2007. As for pattern of knit fabrics, stripes and solid patterns were used most regardless of seasons. As for dyeing and finishing of knit fabrics, non-processed fabrics were used most, recording high frequency in the early 2000s.

• 한국생활과학회지
• /
• 제17권6호
• /
• pp.1205-1213
• /
• 2008

Material is a factor for maximizing formative aspect among fashion design factors. Therefore, central axis of modern fashion is performing various trials for escaping from existing cloth and searching for artistic value. Especially, Korean paper is a formative material, which is manufactured through traditional manual work in Korea. The material is used in various fields on the basis of its aesthetic feature. Especially, fashion field performs handcraft activity on the basis of mulberry pulp, which is a prime material of Korean paper. Because the activity can be reinterpreted by world designers, who want to find motive of fashion material in the third world, it is necessary to perform experimental study for developing expressive form on the basis of diversity of Korean paper material. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to perform experimental study by focusing on the development of Korean paper material in order to express formative feature. The study purposes are as follows. The first purpose is to reinterprete the theory through actual work of fiber formation using Korean paper in the current flow where art and design field are fused and compromised. The second purpose is to suggest vision of material development on the basis of formative feature to fashion world focusing its eyesight to Asia and the third countries. The study results are as follows. First, Korean paper has been evaluated as proper material for the fusion of design and art because of its handicraft feature, long-term preservation, heat insulation, absorption, diversity and eastern feature. Second, the study performed various trials for artistic dress material by developing 12 Korean paper works and suggested the development of new material on the basis of formative feature of modem fashion industry.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제45권6호
• /
• pp.1052-1062
• /
• 2021

This study aims to confirm the possibility of Ultra-Violet (UV)-printed 3D printing materials using thermal polyurethane (TPU) with CMYK colors by applying an eco-friendly UV digital printing process. A UV-printed 3D printing TPU material was prepared with cycles of UV printing and CMYK colors. Dyeability of the 3D TPU samples with cycles of UV printing and CMYK were analyzed for thickness, weight, surface roughness, reflectance, colorimetry, and K/S values. The thickness and weight of 3D-printed TPU samples with cycles of UV printing are increased with overprints from 1 to 5. The surface roughness of 3D-printed TPU samples with increasing UV prints were decreased, meaning that the surface of TPU samples becomes gradually smoother. The reflectance spectra of CMYK UV-printed TPU samples showed the surface reflectance within each characteristic wavelength of CMYK. The 3D-printed TPU samples, subjected to UV printing twice or more, showed low surface reflectance. After examining the L^*a^*b^* of the 3D-printed TPU samples by the cycles of UV printing, the study found that the more UV got printed more than 2 times, the closer the color to each CMYK.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제30권3호
• /
• pp.412-424
• /
• 2006

본 연구는 먼저 자연주의와 자연주의 복식이 무엇인가에 대하여 고찰하고 그 개념을 바탕으로 자연의 요소 중 그 화려함과 다양함을 보여 주는 나비를 선택하여 자연 소재인 데님과 접목시킴으로써 인간 체형에 자연의 형태를 입혀 자연과 친화될 수 있는 고부가가치의 현대 복식 디자인을 창출하는 것을 목적으로 하였다. 그리고 디자인 도출방법으로는 요즘 디자인 작업에서 많이 활용피고 있는 CAD 시스템 중 가장 대중화되어 있는 Adove illustrator 10, Photoshop 7.0, Prima Vision Textile Design System을 이용하여 디자인을 하였다. 본 논문의 연구결과는 다음과 같다. 자연주의의 개념은 인간의 본질에 관심을 가지고 과학에 근거를 둔 사실적인 묘사로 객관성을 가지며 이로 인해 자연 속에서 삶의 본질을 찾고자 하는 것이다. 자연주의 복식의 개념은 천연의 가공하지 않은 소재와 자연의 색이나 천연염료의 색을 사용하고 자연의 모티브인 식물$\cdot$동물 등 자연 형상을 모티브로 하며 편안하고 자연스러운 실루엣을 의미하는 복식인 것을 알 수 있었다 그리고 나비의 뚜렷한 시각적 강조를 드러내는 구조는 어느 곤충들보다 화려하여 우리의 관심을 끌어들이는 데에 사용될 수 있고 작가가 의도하는 방향으로 발전시킬 수 있는 가능성을 확인할 수 있었다. 마지막으로 캐드를 이용한 프린팅 디자인은 수작업으로 이루어지는 일반 프린팅 기법에 비해 더욱 풍부한 색의 프린트 디자인과 다양한 시도를 할 수 있어 프린트 디자인에 더욱 많은 기회와 경제성을 제공하는 것을 확인할 수 있었다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제19권1호
• /
• pp.41-53
• /
• 2017

The purpose of this paper was to figure out the status quo of development of textiles in fashion industry by analyzing through in-depth interview with domestic women's wear converters on the process of textile planning. Professionals in top3 domestic women's wear converters were selected and interviewed in-depth on actual work process of textile development. The result of the research is as follows. First, the interviewed converters were having transactions with entire domestic target market of women's clothing and also exporting to China. Second, production of textile was mostly domestic, with some from China. Third, the number of textile development was 20 - 50 items per season accordingly to size of converter, and the number was larger if taking into account the sourcing development, the special finished fabric development and the print design development. Fourth, for methods to gather information, converters got ideas through overseas exhibitions, overseas color swatch books, fashion-related web sites and market research. Fifth, when setting up direction of textiles, it was investigated that they had motif from in-trend material or on previous season's best-selling material. Sixth, textile planning map did not start from early in season but prefers in-progress board map. Seventh, ways for many method types for textile planning were found depending on sales type of converter and textile production price.