• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.23 no.4
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• pp.39-56
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to observe the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design, examine the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction design in the collections of Jacquemus, and analyze their internal meanings. For research, observations were made based on the concepts and expressive characteristics of Deconstruction through prior research and literary review, and analysis was conducted focusing on the expressive characteristics of Neo-Deconstruction. The scope of analysis included a total of 605 photographs collected from a total of 17 season collections of Jacquemus from the 2013 S/S to the 2021 S/S season. The results are as follows. First, the Neo-Deconstruction of Jacquemus expresses the youth culture using bright images such as diverse colors and patterns with 'positive playfulness' and pass on positive messages with deconstructive and playful forms, such as exaggeration and reduction and recombination and reconstitution. Second, with tendencies of 'symbolic receptivity', Jacquemus gained inspiration from his own life, memories, and hometown, and attempted to express the street women of places such as southern France, Paris, and Monaco in a number of collections. Also, he proposed designs that can be worn easily by anyone, regardless of gender, and as plus size models began to become more common respect was given to the tastes and preferences of diverse individuals without distinctions based on body type or sexuality. Third, 'geometric simplicity' was generally expressed by pursuing simple and practical fashion with the addition of details, such as geometric forms including stripes or asymmetrical expressions centering around everyday material that is used in clothing. Fourth, with "open communication," Jacquemus constructed his identity by addressing the various needs of consumers based on social network services and continuously sharing his creative ideas with the public. He is gaining popularity in a unique way by responding quickly to the changing atmosphere of society.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.30 no.5
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• pp.656-674
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to reveal and compare the differences in the types and characteristics of purchase channel journeys of MZ generation consumers. In this study a survey was conducted on the purchase channel journey of 20 women in the MZ generation using the ethnographic method of in-depth interviews and observations. As a result, three purchase channel journeys were identified: mobile, multi-channel, and offline. These were variously subdivided according to the characteristics of the MZ generations. Gen Z's journey was categorized into types: fashion platform app, Youtube, multi-channel supplement, multi-channel non-planned store visit, offline loyalty store, and impulsive offline store. Gen M's journey was categorized as: an online community bond, portal site, online loyalty store, multi-channel brand involvement, multi-channel efficiency, a multi-channel conversion, offline efficiency and offline task. The difference in mobile journey between generations was found in the time and length of the purchase. Gen M recognized both online and offline search processes to be tiring, while Gen Z enjoyed the search process using the online path. In the offline journey Gen Z began with their own intention to purchase, while Gen M sometimes recognized that purchasing fashion products necessary for work was a cumbersome task.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2001.04a
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• pp.41-41
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• 2001

본 연구는 1990년대 밀리터리 패션에서 성적 이미 지의 표현양상을 살펴보고 각각의 미적 특성과 형성 요인을 분석하여 현대 여성의 다양한 미적 가치와 미의식을 이해하고자 한다. 1, 2차 세계대전을 계기로 자연스럽게 등장한 밀 리터리 패션은 20세기 초반에 여성의 사회참여와 지 위 향상으로 인해 실용성과 기능성을 추구하였고 중 반에 들어서면서 히피와 젊은 세대들에 의해 반전운 동의 일환으로 입혀져 안티패션의 의미를 내포하게 되었으며 후반에는 포스트모더 니즘으로 인해 다양성 을 추구하는 복고풍의 패션 트랜드로서 각종 컬혜션 에서 부각되었다. 그 결과 밀리터리 패션은 기존의 남성적 이미지뿐만 아니라 여성적 이미지도 표현하 게 되었다. 이러한 밀리터리 패션에 나타난 성적 이 미지는 권위적 이미지와 공격적 이미지의 남성적 이 미지와 보수적 이미지와 과시적 이미지, 관능적 이미 지의 여성적 이미지로 표현되어 나타났다. 남성적 이미지는 자유주의 페미니즘과 관련하여 남성 중심적 사고 방식에 도전하고자 하는 여성들의 자아의식이 한층 강하게 작용한 일종의 반 패션 현 상으로 권위적 이미지와 공격적 이미지로 특정지을 수 있다. 첫째, 권위적 이미지는 주로 고전적 군복과 제복의 이미지를 차용해 군복이 가지는 권위와 위엄을 표출 하였으며 남성 우월주의에 기초한 영웅주의를 가시 적으로 표현하였다. 이는 떳떳하게 자신의 위치를 세 우고자 하는 여성들의 욕구를 대변하였으며 영웅주 의와 가부장제도가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 둘째, 공격적 이미지는 권위적 이미지에 대한 저 항과 기존의 성 정체성에 대한 저항으로써 전위적인 형태와 해체적인 표현으로 본래의 위엄있는 군복의 이미지를 무너뜨려 남성다웅의 표면적인 메시지를 약화시키고자 하였으며 반체제 정신, 성 정체성에 대 한 저항, 해체주의가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 여성적 이미지는 급진주의 페미니즘과 관련하여 여성 본래의 성을 부각시키고 여성이 주체가 된 여 성중심적 사고로 여성의 감성적 심리를 패션을 통해 표현하고자 하였으며 보수적 이미지, 과시적 이미지, 관능적 이미지로 특징 지을 수 있다. 첫째, 보수적 이미지는 남성적 영역이라고 믿어왔 던 군복에 여성성을 강조하여 가늘고 유연한 실루엣 과 곡선적인 라인, 색채. 심플한 디테일만으로 밀리 터리 패션을 표현하여 남성중심의 이데올로기에서 벗어나 여성도 사회의 중심이 될 수 있음을 시사하 였으며 남성 권위의 추락이 그 형성요인으로 작용하 였다. 둘째, 과시적 이미지는 전통적 군복이 과거의 상 류층 엘리트들만의 아이템이었듯이 현대의 여성들은 신분과 매력의 과시를 표현하고자 금속 단추나 벨트 등 기타장식을 부각시킨 밀리터리 패션을 착용하였 으며 엘리트층에 대한 동경이 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 셋째, 관능적 이미지는 신체의 간접적인 노출과 직접적인 노출을 통해 여성의 신체에 의한 에로틱한 관능미를 부여하고자 하였으며 나르시시즘과 보이고 자 하는 욕구, 성적 유희가 그 형성요인으로 작용하였다. 그러므로 밀리터리 패션에 나타난 성적 이미지에 관한 연구는 패션을 통해 자아를 표현하고 미적으로 자기완성의 방편을 삼으려고 한 현대 여성들의 가치 관과 미의식을 이해하며 이를 충족시키고자 하는 패 션 트랜드와 디자인 개발에 도움이 될 것이다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.681-691
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• 2017

This study provides a new fashion design perspective that is rapidly changing and pursues a new one based on maximalism, which is a trend that expresses the sensibility of modern fashion that seeks originality and differentiation in today's fashion world. In this study, based on the domestic monographs and previous studies, the concept and formation background of maximalism are theoretically examined. We want to classify and analyze characteristics based on the analysis and collection image analysis using the internet specialist site (www.vogue.com). We also develope a fashion design that is applied to clothes after deriving typical characteristics. The study results are as follows. The criterion of Maximilian's type criterion required to escape the minimalism that pursues simplicity and simplicity is the need to express the enlargement that expresses exaggeration, decoration to express glamor, the mixture that expresses the mixture and the complexity of the heterogeneous. This then can show the characteristics of the expressed non-structure. We analyzed the formative characteristics of maximalism in modern fashion and developed five types of fashion design.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.694-707
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• 2017

This study analyzes the characteristics of clothes worn by the Zhuang in order to produce new fashion designs, and to propose diverse new directions in fashion design. Research was conducted using a bibliographic survey on the cultural background, characteristics, and relevant techniques of the Zhuang costume and that of minority races in China. This study deploys four styles of design for women's wear. With the inspiration of the traditional Zhuang costume, black and blue were the colors mainly used for the Zhuang people and the material was mostly denim. Denim blends in well for the contemporary facilitation of the Zhuang costume, which is known for knitting technique, fur and hemp fabric as patchwork, and embroidery works. It is appropriate to express the joyful and happy mind of Zhuang people with extraordinary colors, exaggerated silhouettes, and various decorations. Images of nature, such as the sun, mountains, rivers, water, fish etc., expressed the nature worship of the Zhuang in contemporary design, representing the simple life and peaceful mind. This research develops a new fashion design and displays the possibility for diverse design development through new insight in contemporary fashion design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.1-17
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• 2000

Kitsch is one of the various mass-cultural phnomena in the late 20th century, with it's own new aesthetic value, 'self-expression' through 'destruction', denying the existing established way of thinking and escaping from the stereotypes or fixed ideas. This is called 'aesthetic inadequacy'. The purposes of this study are to examine the different preferences between the western and the domestic Kitsch Fashions to investigate the formative and aesthetic characteristics of domestic Kitsch Fashion based on substantial data, and to propose the creative Kitsch design. The results of this study are as follows; 1. The formative characteristics of domestic Kitsch Fashion are marked by amusement, disharmony, epicureanism, satire, and use of imitation. 2. Then, based on theoretic research, this study applies aesthetic characteristics of Kitsch to the creative design. According to the formative characteristics for Kitsch Fashion, the Design Concepts are developed in order of Optimism, Multi Form, Decadence Chic, Neo-Naturalism, and Poor Vintage. And the Fabric direction is given in Design Story with sub theme such as Cheerful, Game, Decadence, Environment, and Grunge.

• Human Ecology Research
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• v.57 no.4
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• pp.513-522
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• 2019

This study analyzes the characteristics of somatotype changes of girls from the ages of 13 to 18 that provide basic data on clothing construction for middle and high school girls. We use data obtained from body measurements of 1,590 adolescent girls 13 to 18 years of age provided in the 6th national anthropometric survey report. The differences among the age groups for 56 direct measurements were analyzed by ANOVA, and the structures of the differences by SNK (Students-Newman-Keuls test) were analyzed. The two major growth ages were 'ages 13-14' and 'ages 15-16'. The first major growth ages focused on all measurement items of height, length, circumference, breadth, depth and other items. The second one focused on measurement items of height and length of torso, circumference, and breadth of lower body. The major growth pattern of the age groups was 'ages 13<14&15<16&17&18' which appeared focused on the height and length items of upper body and torso, the width items of lower body and the circumference items of upper body and lower body. The measurement items of front length like waist front length, N.P. to B.P to waistline, N.P. to B.P., and B.P. to B.P. showed the growth pattern for 'ages 13<14<15<16<17&18'.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.88-98
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• 2021

In this study, the characteristics of digital anthropometric methods were determined with case studies. These methods were broadly classified into two categories: non-wearable and wearable. Then, these categories were further classified into four types: 3D Scanning, mobile app, smart clothing, and smart tool Among the non-wearable types, the "3D scanning" technique was based on the use of 3D hardware equipment. With this technique, the body shape was measured and the internal body information was obtained. Therefore, it is used in fields of healthcare and fitness. Among the wearable types, "Smart clothing" involves a special clothing that measures human body and a smartphone application. Both the components are linked to a fashion platform, which is based on the measured sizes that help shoppers. The "Smart tool" has the characteristic of measuring only with smart tools and smartphone applications; it does not involve the measurement of images. The common advantage of digital anthropometric methods are as follows: they reduce the time and cost of measurement by enabling self-measurement. Moreover, simple measurements are used to determine the size of anthropometry. Thereafter, it accumulates this data to track the continuous changes in size. From an industrial point of view, digital anthropometric technology should be used to increase sales. The on-demand market can be expanded as global consumers would throng the Korean fashion market. For the consumer, an avatar should be created to fit the user's size. This would provide a fun experience to the user.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.15-28
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• 2011

This study will focus on research and analysis covering the period of time since the creation of the People's Republic of China to current day China, with an emphasis on 20-something year-old women living in Shanghai. In conducting this research, historical evidence of fashion was derived from books, photographs, and Internet resources pertaining to the specific periods of interest. Furthermore, each set of data has been organized in approximately decade-long segments that best reflect the transformation of Chinese fashion from 1949 to 2000. As a result of the countrywide emphasis placed on revitalization of the newly created Chinese state during the period of 1949 to 1965, detail to fashion was largely ignored, in preference to the successful upstart of a working economic foundation. This neglect of fashion is evident by the scarcity of new and daring styles during this period. The following the period of 1966 to 1977 ushered in a cultural revolution that was aptly demonstrated in the changing fashion tastes. When compared with the previous period, the blandness of clothing, authorized by the Chinese government clearly reflected the rules and regulations strictly enforced by a government mandate of conformity and obedience. These orthodox changes were so drastic, that women wearing these clothes could hardly be differentiated from men in the same style wear. After Mao Ze Dong's death in 1976 and the end of the sternest period of the Chinese Revolution, a new era of Chinese culture and fashion was made possible by a more lax and tolerant government. During the later palt of the seventies through the eighties, this new governmental policy fostered more openness and self-expression, both of which led to a newfound interest in expressing one's desires and personality through the clothes he or she chose to wear.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.127-143
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• 2017

In this study, we examine a variety of influences in the field of design and analysis about the value of visual tactile design. In hair design, through study on visual tactility, creative design inspiration in the field of hair design enables development of quality research. Research methods use Internet publications such as local and foreign data, analysis, and related research and book forms, such as network searches. library goes for consideration by a literature search. Contents of this study used review of the case and by visual tactility design, for this study, expressive characteristics by color, texture and form of hair design, from 2014-2017 trend shown in the last three years the expressions of visual tactility being used through the analysis of design by date of the case. Result of this study is, visual tactile design appearing in the areas of hair design, that are not of the rules that are active, abstract form, texture, described as a visual feel the promotion of effective, and light and high brightness is sweet tactile impression, high saturation was cold, dark color was hard and heavy, red system is warm and the blue system is cold sense. In general, design trend in hair for three years from 2014-2017, visual tactility in 2014 is a high saturation and unstructured also soft and bright colors. 2015 is on the overall shape, color, texture, hybrid design configuration is more. As of 2016, 2017 is curved and straight texture, appearance of the hybrid mix to maximize the visual tactility.